Willys

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About Willys

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    Anything Smart Car

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    Pefferlaw, Ontario Canada

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  1. Heated seats are the two that the original doesn't have. Yes same year cars.... I did install the heated seats simply because they are stiffer due to the heat element....I personally do not like the feel of heated seats, but ....maybe they will grow on me..?
  2. Mine was doing the same thing.....The only real thing I did was lubricate and work the waste gate back and forth for it's entire travel and also mess with my emulator connection. I do not think it was the emulator, but could be wrong? What made me go after the waste gate was an over boost reading on my scanguageII 20 lbs when it should be 16 or so. It is now back to what it was originally 16.4 lbs. when I use the go peddle...lol. I could suggest a million other things but I expect you have checked most of them already. Simply checking wiring, leaks, shorts, gas peddle wire condition? ETC ETC....SAM, ECU and silver box plugs for corrosion...? The list is endless.....lol.
  3. My next issue is the cock-pit I had in the car originally only had two buttons and the one I want in there now has 4...and that means a different connector....the old style has a simple open mouthed thing that sides over the circuit board and the new one has a proper connector where it pugs into. So, I'm thinking I can simply cut and splice the wires from one plug to another as long as the wiring colours are the same. Hmmmm.....? I have another wiring harness to get the plug I require....it's from the car that I'm taking all these items from. I have found that many of the wires I need for things are already built in to the main wiring harness of the original car that has very few options. They simply didn't add the wiring for the options to plug into the main wiring harness. So fingers crossed.....
  4. Both Stickman007 and myself have aliexpress turbo and manifold kits, he has his on the road and mine is still in the garage but installed ready. He has said he hasn't had a second of problem with his. So for the price I'd buy another in a heartbeat! I have put up the location where I buy my nozzles from many times but I need to dig through all my paypal purchases to find it again so I think it would be faster for you to do a search here....lol. I'm in a rush at the moment to fetch a couch.....sorry. IF you have a U-Pull, I'd almost check their turbo situation ...? If the price is right of course. But alli was a great price.
  5. You can clamp it hard just where it "Y's" out at the top near the inlet port. Then add heat and some force and the nozzle cap will release. Yes I soak the entire thing up to the top plastic section. IF you want to you can take that apart also but no real need imho. I usually soak mine for 3 shots of 30 minutes and then see what they look like. Usually like new and a quick blast of air, they are waiting for new nozzles and caps. I don't touch the two mating surfaces.....in any way that is for the needle and push rod calibration. I haven't had one go wrong in any way yet and I have done 5 sets so far. It's easy if you have the tools and a bit of patience. Just do not mix any parts between the three injectors.....as in internal parts...just to be safe.
  6. Perhaps you can do a tutorial type thing in a step by step required to reset the seat belt light? IF not too much work etc etc...? That way more members could consider buying this machine?
  7. I'm still healing from welding an exhaust while wearing summer slip-on shoes made of some sort of mesh material.....perfectly round hole/crater left in the top of my foot! But I also have a loonie sized scar from the same thing while wearing work boots.....a lump of molten steel fell inside the boot and burnt it's way down to the top of my foot and simply sizzled until it cooled down. I couldn't get the boot off fast enough so I simply grit my teeth and waited! Hmmmm.....not sure if I should have tried to get it out or wait...? The scar is loonie sized and the same thing almost a crater...! When you are a welder fitter, these things happen....it's part of life. I find croc's the worst things to wear when working at anything.....slippery as goose shit and nails slide through them with ease! I don't own a pair of crocs any more...lol.!!!
  8. What exactly are you asking...? You basically repeated the procedure to do the job as best I/we can without sending them to an injector shop and paying huge money for them to do it for you.....OR...you can ship your injectors to me and I can do it for you as I have the cleaner and tools needed....but you supply the injectors and new nozzles... IF you want to do this PM me and we'll talk money.
  9. Thanks guys....I personally like the crimp shrink tube type connectors, with a second layer of shrink tubing over the crimp. Between the two it makes a strong solid connection compared to a simple soldered wire with shrink tubing covering it. To each their own, there is many ways to get to the same place....personal choice. Again thanks for the help.
  10. Unfortunately I have found that our modern cameras are far too good at taking high res. photos. This mb count is far above the limit set by our site from what I understand....my new to me, the lowest budget phone takes 12. something mb pictures. I have found that in the settings on the phone you can turn down this to just about 2 mb sized pictures....that should fit the site's restrictions....no..? BUT it ruins the high quality pics for every day needs or likes. You could always turn the needed pictures down to the lowest setting which is what my phone is just about 2 mb and then turn it back up for your daily pictures....? But far easier is to use a site like suggested above. Unless you like me do not care about resolution on my daily pictures etc.
  11. OK, finally the clever-end is installed and I have the front clip off now. I am going after all relay modifications to be done all at once. BUT....after cleaning up the oil/rustproofing etc etc..I have found a few broken wires....Hmmm...? I also found a wire cut from the cockpit area and am curious IF it should be connected...thoughts??? The joined white wire, originally from the brown cut wire, goes off into the wiring harness and is wrapped in official type tape not electrical tape, more like a black cloth type tape. Should this cut brown wire be out in the open and what was it for? I also have a few broken wires from the headlights etc that have vibrated and snapped. Poor previous soldering. All and any help is greatly appreciated. This is the best in focus pic I could get my new phone to take, just wouldn't focus on the brown wire I was after no matter what I did. Thanks.
  12. Would the more open looking of the two flow better even though it has less filtering? OR could the material be denser...? But as you say, performance wise I doubt it would make a noticeable difference...?
  13. Hmmm....seeing as you are widening the rear so far , ever thought of a Toyota Echo power plant? I had a 2005 Echo and put 560 K on it and it screamed when you allowed it to. Can't imagine what a Smart would be like with that in it....but then again the Echo was a very light car also. Bulletproof engine too boot.
  14. gt300 body kit

    Excellent....keep posting....pics of the process.....the end result will show why people do this amount of work even when others can't envision the finished product...imho. As the saying goes, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, besides....it's yours not theirs....so if it makes you smile then scre----'em...!...lol It's the principle I have always worked with...lol.