Willys

I have plenty of information I used but it isn't in any printed single manual......I gathered a 5 inch deep binder from every smart car site I could over many years. Building the engine is typical tolerances and specs. I rebuilt the entire engine to like new condition, anything worn was either machined or replaced down to every nut and bolt. MW-Smart in Germany is the go to place for anything Smart Car related IMHO. BUT, I was warned by them they have been screwed over by a few Americans cancelling their order after it was shipped, so now they demand everything paid up front until they get to know you. They are very nice people to deal with and very helpful. They have everything you could possibly need from old stock to rebuild engines. Their stock keeps changing as they keep finding new old stock parts locations. The only thing I had to buy from Romania was the vacuum plump for the brake booster that lives on the righthand side of the head. You will find the cogs will be beaten usually. I can go on for a while....contact me.... Always happy to help.

Sorry didn't read this post until today, these people are top notch imho, I bought everything to fully rebuild my engine from them without any issue at all. This was 5 years ago probably now but still I would buy from them in a heartbeat if I needed anything. IMHO, you must buy the correct over sized piston kit after you have measured your block. Also checked your cylinders for irregular distortion as in waves in the walls of the cylinders. Mine was terrible. Luckily the only kit they had was 3 over as it took that much to correct the cylinders. I agree it seems people think these cars and or mechanical parts are gold plated used which is resulting in so many getting crushed. I also agree with buying all new internal parts IF you have the funds. imho the end result will be an engine that will outlast the rest unless you pay the same attention to rust issues. Keep up the good work and keep posting.

Could be part of the drive cogs for the air pump for the brakes located next to the oil fill cap top righthand side of the engine. IF it is, I'd be asking is it a good usable engine? Those cogs take a beating from what I have seen. They are easily replaced with a new pump so look to see if that pump was replaced at some point. In any case I'd be digging into that engine before relying on it to be a good runner. Sorry to say.

Re-read my above posts, they all work and stay relevant imho. The lift is easy if you have basic mechanical abilities. Then you can choose to go a step further and eat into the inner front fender wells for clearance issues for even wider tires. It takes a very bad pot holed road for me to think it wasn't worth it. Just adjust the tire pressures to suit to road surfaces. There are many threads on lifting Smart Cars and how far you can go. Mild to insane.....it comes down to your personal choices. IMHO, lifting the Smart doesn't effect the handling as long as you use the wider rims off the rear all around. IF it gets too squishy increase the tire pressure back to normal and suffer the bumps or adjust your driving style and lower

I only have 3 on the road vehicles at the moment and really only one is being used. I have a completely fitted out van for traveling in that is used solely for what it was built for, then I have my 2005 CDI fully restored sleeping in my garage where it will stay until it's needed once again. That leaves my daily driver a 1991 Volvo 244, completely stock and basically rust free. I'm the second owner and seeing as it doesn't have much in the way of electric powered or electronic systems , it's almost built proof on the maintenance front. So I suppose I have already shaved my fleet down to one usable vehicle with two sitting on the side lines IF they are needed. This is a far cry from my worst, 8 insured and used vehicles.....the savings in ins alone is enough to keep it the new norm. Yes they are all insured but only one is fully insured for immediate road use. OK......thanks for not including other idiotic mechanical projects.....lol. My main concern for the next few years is to replace all my hip and knee joints. I'm almost halfway there. This has stopped all mechanical projects in their tracks.

Glad you found the issue. You could also fine polish the drum track if you are that anal...lol It's relatively simple transmission once you stare at it long enough....lol. Yours looks relatively clean inside, mine had some brown oil stuck on the case which needed cleaning off. I took the entire thing apart to check all bearings thinking they may have been an issue also. Not the case.

IF you can get some heat into the engine do it before attacking the glow plugs, but if not a solid 10mm deep socket and careful pressure should release them. Do it like a tap and out a bit then back in to try and keep the fine threads of the plugs intact.

I'd take those numbers too, if I had the beauty which you drive in.....there is nothing to compare to the mountains of BC, imho.

Yes they sit flush, and the needle should slide into the nozzle easily. I hate electronics and can't figure it out without a nose bleed...lol....so I phone a friend when it comes to the white smoke....lol. Have you tried Izzy, Stickman007. He is a wizard in the white smoke section....and a great guy to deal with. He's just north west of Edmonton also. Electronics is his specialty.

Have you checked all the wiring to the injectors? Sorry too lazy to re-read all our posts...lol. I have a lot of house repairs on my plate at the moment. Sorry. I have heard that someone had a bad connection at the top of the injector...? Do you have a membership to Evilution? Well worth the price of admission imho........days of information in their library......I haven't been their in years so can't say what it's like today...?

Soak everything in diesel as you assemble the injectors. I made the mistake on a set and forgot about them and assembled them perfectly clean and dry, 3 months later they were rusted solid!!!! RUINED!!!! I now soak them in diesel and they stay perfectly fresh! My sonic cleaner was $200 many years ago before they got cheaper in price. It's a 6 litre model and 6" deep I think, rectangular in shape.

And the range if you do not live in an urban area, imho. Then add in the extreme cold weather that these electric vehicles seem to work less in. My brother's mustang ev left him sitting in the middle of feb for hours in the wee hours a few times.....he's now back to reliable fosil fuels....lol. To each their own and yes for city dwellers I agree, the perfect solution for smog and pollution. My son has had a tesla now for two models changes, he's hooked, but has to route his driving around fast charging sites and he lives in a city. They are constantly following the charger app when they come to visit.....again to each their own.

My Smart if driven no more than 10kms over the limit and carefully up to speed was steadily at 3.5 The lowest I have seen it iirc was 2.7 but I do not know how or why.....????? My best numbers were always when I wasn't watching the scangauge

I hang the top out of the sonic cleaner and do the entire injector, then take nozzles out and do them separately as many times as it takes to get them as clean as I want them. You are really after that spray pattern as best you can get it.....many baths and then slap nozzles on injector and spray carb clean through to see if you gat the 5 spray pattern. I have never tried heat as I expect the nozzles to be tempered and the needle looks like it has a coating on it? The needle must seat correctly inside the nozzle or you will get poor spray and complete shut off of fuel....no...??? The trick is to make sure you have one injector untouched while doing the other two, so when you forget how all the shaft and spacers, washer etc go in sequence, you have something to go back to. Sorry should have said this at first....lol. The injectors live in a hot environment when engine is running so not sure if you can loosen the crud that way...????? Be interesting to see if you do try and it works without ruining the nozzle...?

No rubber O ring in the caps or above the caps for the nozzles. Sorry thought LLNs was refering to the injector seats, I did the same thing for my glow plug holes, greased up drill bit and your shop vac.... So they have gone up some since I bought my set....lol....not by much though!! They used to be dirt cheap! I used to go in and buy all they had, seeing I was taking my injectors in and out so frequently. NO WIRE ANYTHING anywhere near the tip of the nozzles, UNLESS you want to buy new nozzles....!!!!! I would try and find nozzles before trying using anything but chemical cleaning. I have a 6 quart sonic cleaner and I can submerge the entire injector. Also, be very careful not to mix up the parts between your injectors....easily done if you get carried away. Nothing beats the results you can get from sonic cleaning, even multiple baths in very hot fluids. About sonic cleaners, you can just put your dirty parts in a tuperware container in strong carb cleaner, floating inside just clean water. It helps stop the contamination of the whole cleaner unit and wasting expensive cleaner so quickly. Youtube trick and it works! Research it if you want. Under very strong magnifiers you can see the deformation of the orfises(?) from the high pressure fuel being sprayed out of them. That is after they are clean.