Willys

Or the actual brake light switch...???? Check all grounding pin points for corrosion.....ABS is a nasty creature...lol. Mine took plenty of tries to get it blead properly.

Have you taken the gear select motor apart to check for corrosion? I have seen a few rusted badly. Do you have another ECU to teach in to see if the signal going to the gear select motor is good? It simply counts revolutions for gear location. The transmission is very simple so to speak. Did you position the gear forks and drum correctly? I expect the transmission operates correctly if you have driven it...? Have you checked all ground pins, yes sounds simple but.....between each eyelet ??? Continuity on all connectors on the wiring harness to see if the wire is damaged/weakened at the crimp? I have had to disect the entire wiring harness searching for damaged wire/continuity issues.....a serious pain in the rear!!!!

Hey buddy, what Volvo do you have? I just bought a 1991 240 in excellent condition for peanuts....garage kept single owner one shop screwed her over for double the purchase price so everything is like new. It's my new daily. Bare bones simple, very little electronics, but far thirstier than the Smart....lol.

I have a spare roof glass in my garage just for this reason.....and yes it just uses the same windshield urethane to install it. I bet the ins. would write the car off for the cost of a new glass roof, damn.... I agree either search for a used glass from wrecker and get glass guy to install it and forget ins. as it'll be a hit against your policy imho.

Sorry just had hip replaced and have other things on my mind other than smart car issues...lol... Check all bushings with pry bar to try and flex them and if you see movement then I'd say replace them. But that's just me...? I think I have two brand new a arms that I ordered when I rebuilt my car as a second set by mistake, doh...! They come with new bushings already pressed in, the reason I went this route over pressing out the old bushings and then being able to press in the new bushings without damaging them in the process. IF you are interested in them I will look for them if I can get my leg operational without too much pain. I was doing great but started driving and the motion of lifting my leg into the car and then forward pulled two of the main muscles so now I am back to square one......limping around like the day it was done! I would do you a good deal but I expect the shipping from ontario to BC might be expensive?

Hmmm....check RockAuto for parts.....replace all tie-rod ends and ball joints, What ever you want to call them, they are cheap. Change them all....then think about steering rack but I'll bet it'll be the cheap part first! Same with bearings....if you are concerned, change them....OR clean them out and repack them....but none is a big job. I know the exhange isn't great if you are forced to go below the border....Canadian Tire also used to have bearings....? At least my local did.

Hmmmm......????? I wonder what positive thoughts could be said for 3 feet of snow I have to trench in my backyard, so my dogs can go potty.....????? The driveway took 3 hours yesterday......I think I need one of those sticks with a flag on it to show the wife where I am incase the blower packs it in.......lol

I have that ticking in my car also and couldn't figure out what it was from, now I have another thing to check when the warmer weather decides to grace us....lol. Maybe it's time to replace all of those relays...? After all they are 20 years old this year....lol....?

I am getting a new hip Feb 21 so won't be able drive maybe the next one...???

MW-SMART.com in Germany is where I bought all my engine parts, good people but very busy

Welcome to the site.... A Star system is a pirated type thing...it can't see the internet as it will want to update and thus crash. IF this has happened I do not know what you can do besides buying a new system off the internet/ebay etc. Not sure what car you are using for the C4 version as most ask for the C3 version, but i could be wrong...???? I'm surprised the original owner didn't explain this to you about the STAR...? Oh well. Hopefully this isn't what happened? We have a few members who are computer wizards, sorry I am not....send a PM to a member called Stickman007 and ask if he knows what to do.....Good luck.

I agree 100% with the above for sure. Plus they look a damned sight better....lol. I will say that in deep fresh snow they can feel like they are hydroplaning compared to the bicycle thick wheels which cut through the deep snow. BUT, I also found that the stock wheels tend to lock up far easier than the wider wheels in any conditions. Ask me how I learned this.....the look on the faces of the folks who were sitting at the light as I slide past them was embarrassing to say the least!!!! My fault, driving past the sensible speed on snowy-icy conditions etc.

Have you played around with your waste gate rod to adjust your boost pressure to keep it close but not too close to the over boost limit??? What scan gage are you working with? Can it be plugged in while you are driving to allow you to monitor the boost pressure? I work in psi not the metric bar system so only know the numbers in psi. I keep my boost numbers around the 16.4 psi....yes you can go higher but you risk it going over the limit for brief times and if that is longer than a few seconds it trips the limp mode again. It's a personal thing to where or not you want to drive it to be that close or you can be happy like me slightly lower and very very rarely have an over boost limp situation. When you get the limp mode, do you shut the car off and wait for the SAM to click off before trying to drive again? If you do not allow the SAM to click the limp situation won't go away. Many of us own a ScangageII as our scanner as it is always attached and on the dash for us to monitor as we are driving. It isn't cheap as it once was but imho it is still worth the money spent. Same goes for a STAR machine. Also talk to IZZY regarding his thoughts and expertise on the STAR machines and where you possibly might get one from....remembering that they are a grey issue so to speak. So do your research quietly. There are many threads or there used to be on our site about how to get and use a STAR system. The way I made it worth having was telling myself that 3 trips to a dealership or shop would equal the cost of one and everything after those first trips was gravy. Also if you are so inclined you can help others using your STAR which will help recoup some of that cost. Other members/owners are normally happy to give you funds for this service if you want to call it that compared to going to the dealership and paying their outragous shop rates. A few years ago, I was standing at the parts counter at my local dealership and saw a key price flier advertisement....$456 for one key to be reprogramed !!!! I asked was that for one of the high priced models in the showroom he said no that's where they start at and go up from there!!!! It takes 20 minutes with a STAR machine to do 2 key fobs.....doing key fobs alone will pay for your STAR....!!! That is if you offer your services to other Smart Car owners in your area. Everyone wins and is happy to not pay the dealership prices. Sorry went off on a rant again....back to the topic at hand....lol. OH, just another thought about your fuel system,....do you use some sort of fuel conditioner??? I use Diesel Kleen from Canadian Tire every other tank full...I add 50 ml. And during the summer I add it when I remember.....it sounds like a mechanic in a can crap, but it does help over time( maybe 3 doses) to clean up your fuel system. It also will be a slightly noticeable improvement.I'm sure there are other manufactures which sell similar if you don't like this one. Worth the trial just to see. imho.

Just a question, how did you block the EGR? Also did you remove about 4 feet of heater hosing? If not it clears out a nice amount of workable space in the engine compartment. Also if you are not using an emulator, or choosing not to use one, Did you clean your EGR completely so it can operate as it should? IF it can't move it's piston it'll cause a code and thus limp mode, no? IF, you need an emulator IZZY is your man again, that is IF he still has any left. I did hear he was stopping making them??? I have run emulators, and also blocked off EGRs on my cars. I have also reduced one EGR down to just the electrical connector and the piston and hung it still connected to the stock wiring with great success. It took hours to reduce it to the smallest size I could just so it also wasn't taking up much valuable space in the bay. Just suggestions on how to delete your EGR.

I agree, go after the electrical at the pump for corrosion, then if you haven't already take HP pump off and peek inside. The rebuild kits aren't expensive and you can get a small or larger kit, buy the larger(more "orings etc). When inside pump check the valves in the heads of the sections. They have a captured spring and disc which get dislodged over time, worm out and they do not seal correctly. You can buy these valves(the size of a domino) from dealership if i recall correctly, maybe e-bay, Amazon...? They weren't hard to find. Then go after fuel rail pressure sensor, same, corrosion and then operational...? IF you are serious about the car, you really need a STAR machine if you are doing all your own repairs diagnosis, etc....YES expensive but in the end worth it, imho. Not sure how far you are from Edmonton, but IZZY is there and he imho is the man to talk to about anything electrical. It's what he does and he is good at it. He goes by Stickman007 here. Hope this helps.