Willys

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About Willys

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    Anything Smart Car

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    Pefferlaw, Ontario Canada

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  1. IF the stiff feeling is at the same location on every rotation then it is the U-JOINT for sure, no question. I took it as it wasn't at the same place every rotation which would tell me it isn't the U-JOINT.
  2. I agree with WILD, the U-JOINT will feel the same at every revolution not after a few turns......it doesn't care which rotation it's on it'll act the same every time..imho. IF the steering is constantly tight or has un uneven feel as you turn it in lets say 2 rotations maybe the U-JOINT ....but not after a few rotations then starts acting up...not happening. I'll stick with an electronic issue, again check ground for power steering motor.....these cars are notorious for bad grounds. I don't think removing the front clip will give you much more room to see stuff, but inner fenders maybe a better choice. Also front wheels..... I'd buy a good jack and some jack stands or some good solid blocks to put unde car when lifting so you do not become a statistic....! Good luck.
  3. Welcome to the site, we will need a very detailed description of the noise, what it sounds like, where it's coming from, using the brakes? accelerating, turning..? you know...how loud? There are many things you can describe to help us try to help you or suggest what may be causing it. How many KMs on car? What have you done so far searching? Thanks
  4. Yep, I agree, work towards a STAR buddy....not sure if buying a complete running system right from the start is the best way to go or not, but they seem to have them at the moment. When I was looking there wasn't any as the Dell 640 laptops were extinct! Seems someone has found a few.....IF I were to do it again I probably would go this route and swallow the cost. It's only money as they say, but there is a limit for all of us to live by.....what is your's...lol.
  5. Well while reading threads I hear this strange noise coming from our sump pump well....I have had issues before....last time I installed a battery back-up system along with a new submersible pump. I also went with a tethered switch over a rod switch simply because the last rod corroded and siezed...! So, luckily for us the battery back up system is working and doing it's job and has been for some time by the sign of the water marks.....! It was supposed to be a back up not full time unit. So, tonight after all stores had gone home for the night, this happens...no chance to buy a new pump...nope! Of course not! Even though I'm sure the back up system has been operating flawlessly I can't trust it to do it's job seeing as it now is the only pump working. Murphy and I have a good relationship....if i allow him to move in he will...lol. So I do everything in my power to stop him getting in the front door! So, tonight I will get up every hour to check on water levels and manually switch the pump on just incase! Plus tomorrow we are scheduled for rain all day.....just my luck! I have spent the last few hours trying to decide whether or not to upgrade to a sewage type pump to help keep the well clean of iron and other nasties that could show up to clog the impeller. That is what died on the pump after taking it apart. Seems you aren't supposed to be able to service this item either. Can't swap out impellers....they are loctited onto the shaft and the impeller is glued to a brass fitting....all fail when trying to remove them from pump itself. The impeller must have caught a small particle and jammed itself and spun the shaft in the plastic impeller....stupid design! I finally decided to simply replace what i had with another as it lasted 3 plus years and now i know what to use to keep the iron sludge down the next one should last longer.....fingers crossed. Just another maintenance thing to add to the list. I also learned how to set the alarm on my phone.....lol....every hour and a half....oh joy!
  6. How much heavier is the 451 compared to the 450??? Before the Smart I had the last of the Toyota Echo's 5 speed and it was a rocket for it's size so to speak.....the next year the Yaris showed up, heavier,slower but more refined also.....so is this the same fate for the Smart? Adding creature comforts at the expense of performance for such a small package with limited cc's...?
  7. Here I go again....do yourself a huge favor and start checking all connections and grounding pins for corrosion as these little cars suffer from electrical grounding issues. They are well known to leak like sivs.....do some researching for water corrosion issues in general and you will find plenty of threads where people have had issues and in what areas. I personally specialize in the 450 CDI model as i have two, but it seems many models have similar issues regarding water and corrosion. Here's a few spots to check into....sorry....the SAM, the white plug in the front of the battery well area, the silver box near battery, the main grounding strap running from engine to body and finally for the easy stuff...there is a grounding pin just under the front left as you look forwards under the lip of the body around the 11 O'clock location when looking down into engine compartment. When checking grounding pins always undo them and check between each eyelet as the corrosion won't always be easy to spot. Sorry but better to know about these things and deal with them IF you wish than have them stop you mid trip so to speak. Now back to the regularly scheduled programing....oh and also check under carpeting to see if it's dry and if not simply lift and air dry....I then soak mine in something like rust check to help keep them water free. The red stuff seems the best and not a bad smell imho. IF you are at al handy with a wrench everything is solvable with the help from here or over on Evilution.co.uk but they do not have a chat section but they are extremely good with all technical information.....you will do best to give them their smallest donation to get deep into their vast knowledge....something like $25 if I recall correctly......cheaper than a coffee and a fancy donut at today's rates..lol.
  8. Welcome to the site, the best little Smart Car site this side of the pond....take a search around and learn all you can about your car and it's little quirks....enjoy and again welcome. I too sold my bike to switch to 4 wheels......a hard thing to do but necessary. Far warmer and drier also...lol Just not as quick.
  9. This company don't seem to make them for a fourtwo....lol ???
  10. You did check the clearances on the push rods or rockers that hold the valves open right...? Just asking for a friend...lol. Sometime when lapping valves etc things change and we aren't aware of what it may have done in relation to the rest of the engine pieces...? Did you do a leak down test to see where the loss of pressure was coming from? Again asking for a friend...lol. I'm sure you thought of these things....but if you didn't...? The block never froze did it? Get the head tested for invisable cracks, magna-flux or something ...can't remember what the process is called...? Here's hoping it a simple easy fix, hate to see a piece of real history go bad.
  11. Check clean replace any bad wiring connections anywhere on the subframe unit. Engine, etc etc. Gear selection motor and actuator, starter, alt. IF, you are energetic and a bit curious....read up on oil pump,chain and sprocket issues.....When i took the two engines I have done, both had leaking intake gasket rings. You could visually see where they were letting air get past them.! They are cheap if i recall correctly at MW-SMART in germany. It's where I purchased all y engine parts when i completely rebuilt my engine, clutch and transmission. I also separated the single power cable that services the alt and starter so it's far easier to remove either one in the future. You don't need to fiddle with power cable with your finger tips trying to undo cables to allow unit to come away from engine. Depending upon what your inter cooler scoop looks like at the lower end of it, you could remake it using tin or ducting I made mine an inch longer to get more air. BUT, it means you will be an inch closer to the road that rips it off...lol. So always wary of objects on the road from now on. I also encased my inter cooler scoop path way to make the air travel more directly into inter cooler and not rely on body to direct the air into the inter cooler. Yes way over kill but it was there staring at me...lol...! I used rubber floor mating so it is flexible as it may come into contact with body work when the sub frame is re attached to body. Check all engine mounts for cracking or complete failure, too soft of rubber? I also made a shield to protect the alt from debris off road. and removed the hard plastic shield as it is too close to alt and it holds dirt against the alt I found. I again made this shield with the same rubber mating that i used for the inter cooler scoop. It's just the rubber flooring from Princess Auto sold my the meter. The drive shaft bearings that hold the drive shaft in the transmission can get worn and come loose....I changed both of mine, it tightened it up greatly! Check wheel bearings and also shocks for leaks or lack of pressure. I found one of mine was dead at the top of the stroke.....badly rusted...just the one...? Also IF you are curious, take off the air booster pump and peer into it's drive mechanism. You may find it all deformed where it makes contact within it'self. It's on the top right end of the cam shaft....mine looked like it was beaten by a hammer! Found one new in Romania reasonable. You could always install a oil pan with drain plug! If so, make up a guard that sits in front of plug to protect it from getting hit and deforming pan, a simple half moon shaped 1/4" piece welded to oil pan works well. All of these things I have pictures of in my engine rebuild thread in WIKI section....if you are interested.
  12. Yes the car vibrates when at lower rev's and that is where I drive it most of the time to keep my MPGs so good. You said you were thinking of making one that somehow pushes against the glass and then attaches to the lower part of the stock stalk just above where the ball is to help stop the vibration . I'm sure it would work if it has a sticky attachment point against the glass and somehow clamps/clips onto the stock stalk...? IF it simply rests against the glass it will still bounce off the glass when the body vibrates. It needs to be double sided taped or my favorite siliconed to the glass to stop that bouncing. I saw somewhere that someone was making the shorter stalks but never bought one thinking the view out the back may be reduced or headlights at night being more direct, I don't remember but didn't pull the trigger...Hmmm..? I'll have to search out the thingiverse and see if that works or not....back in a few.......... I like this idea...... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3208037
  13. How about a mirror stiffener to help stop it from vibrating so the image is perfect....? Something that clips onto end of mirror ball or near to and then forward to push against the windshield...? Just a suggestion.....lol Please.... OR can you make a shorter mirror stalk.....or will it not be good to see through when shorter??? Lifting the mirror upwards and not allowing good visability through rear window?
  14. I have done the very same thing, changed every wearable item on my good car ready for trouble free driving........fingers crossed.....it's the only way....lol
  15. It needs to be 12V for a good solid start I have found. Especially if you use glow plugs to warm her up. This car is super sensitive to voltage drops and ground issues.