Willys

Check the shape of the area that the lifters sit in the rockers for distortion. I found they wear to their individual lifters over time which means if you install new lifters they may not rotate or sit in the rockers as they should. Especially if one has been damaged like it has here...? Also check the top of that valve stem for damage??? It looks like it has a damaged edge..?? Might be just the oil shimmering to make it appear this way...?? I'd also be changing all 6 of these lifters just as a precaution. Did you take the engine out or do just the head removal?

Welcome to the club/site. There are many fellow owners who have suffered this also and found a way around it. Some change to have wider tires on the fronts, some change the sizing numbers but keep the diameter to allow for best clearances. You can use a tire shop or go on line such as Quattotire where I find my tires for other vehicles as well as my smart. Good luck and again welcome.

It's just a hard shelf that covers the rear storage area which hides what you have placed there and also allows you to stack more things on it.

Your fuel pump relies on the fuel to cool itself, not advisable to keep driving with little to no fuel in the tank to cool the pump. To each their own as many like driving this way....lol. Changing the pump isn't a fun job. Just saying. IF you do run dry you may need to bleed the injectors to get all the air out......it's what you have to do when starting an engine after a rebuild. Beware fuel pressure at injectors is extremely high and can easily penetrate skin.....not something you want to happen.

Change your fuel filter located under drivers seat area underneath belly. Buy a good filter and it should last many many years. MANN is a good name.

You've been busy....I may see see if you're home second or third week in Sept. If that's ok. While you have the head off, check the bore for out of round issues. Mine were so badly warped it took 3 over pistons to correct it. I have one of those oil adapters also but not using it. It wasn't covered in oil until I took it off....lol. Also check rockers for cracks, I had two with the start of cracks. I also had bad valve seats that required replacing.

I have 2 rear glass hatches and one rear tailgate. PM me if you are interested.

I have one that I removed and have had in my garage for just the same reason you are in now.....I will say it isn't easy to remove an intact glass but not hard either if you have the tools needed. But a broken one comes out much easier...lol. The new glass just sits on the same black stuff any windshield is held in with. I just do not know what a fair price is for one nor how to get a glass roof shipped in one piece. Just making a pallet to carry it safely would be a challenge...? I would check all wreckers close to the border near you in Canada and if they have one they are willing to do the work to remove it, then go fetch it. Just the rear glass now is $450 here at the wreckers...!!!!! Prices have gone insane...! OR, buy a wrecked smart and do the work yourself.....might be cheaper??? This is one thing that worries me about the glass roof. OH....You could also go the other route and buy the solid roof and do away with the glass...???? That should be far less...??? Yes I know, nowhere near as good but at least it will be weather proof...lol. This one would be far easier to ship etc etc.

Just curious, what is special about these cars? Is it just visual things or are there special engine tuning done? What I can't imagine? IMHO......I would have a good runner sent/shipped from above the border and just re and re the engine. Yes you can change out all the timing sprockets, tensioners, chain, guides. But at what cost? MW-SMART over in Germany imho is the best place to get new or slightly used engine parts. They have been burnt/scammed by some bad buyers so you will need to pay up front, a few bad apples have ruined it for the rest of us, sadly. BUT, they are great people and typically have everything you could want. I bought all my new engine parts to fully rebuild my engine. But this may get expensive, the reason I suggest getting a good used engine shipped? IF, this is the route you wish to take contact IZZY, he is known here as Stickman007, he may have a good used engine he could ship down to you??? Again this is up to you to weigh the costs and work etc etc. IF, you do opt to go the rebuild route, imho I would be going after the valves etc while that deep. But that's just me.....lol. Why did this happen? What kind of RPMs does it take to break a timing chain? Low on oil? I also would be going after the oil pump chain and sprocket(the main reason I started digging into my engine. Some are known to wear the oil pump sprocket out and thus no oil pressure. Just some thoughts is all.....very interested in hearing about this....

The bigger question is, can you handle tools or own a few? IF so, you can solve all your own issues with some work. The intercooler rad is easily repaired or replaced with a good used unit. Search it. The EGR as above can be deleted, blocked off, OR, disected down to just the body(well as little of it as possible just to keep the plunger assembly operation so you don't need to get an emulator( but emulators are easy to come by, stickman007 is the guy) you simply block off the EGR and remove all the heater hosing from it to the thermostat housing(just to make space) and plug in the original connector and allow it to do it's thing as it thinks it should(that is after you have soaked it in gasoline and cleaned out all the tar build up inside it, yes gasoline works the best). Injectors are semi simple so to speak unless they are locked in place by the black carbon ooozing up from a bad injector seal. Then you have a problem requiring a good slide hammer puller. Search this thread . You can also change out your nozzles or soak them but I will bet dollars to donuts the holes at the end of the nozzles will be distorted or damaged by now and will not spray the fuel to the correct location in the combustion chamber. IF you do think about cleaning your injectors do not wire brush the nozzles as that will close up the holes and ruining them. OR don't poke thin wire down them either. You can get new nozzles off the internet with a bit of searching for the correct one. Search this thread. #1 is the far right cylinder. It starts with can you handle tools and do you have any? No offense intended of course. If not then Flying Tiger is your place to go......as some have suggested.

"Bring back the 70's.....simple solution......" Willys....nuff said...things far less sensitive to/for everyone....ffs.....

I'm an Ex-Pat and once thought about going back in my retirement....that stopped decades ago! I have family in the midlands who own a farm. I could have retired there but even the countryside is not safe any longer. As you say, the entire issue has ruined almost the entire planet! Have you seen the Toronto News lately, every night there is a shooting, someone getting killed, vehicles disappearing, car-jackings, stabbings...... I'll stop here as I will get told off I'm sure....lol. and no, it's not funny!!!!

Hmmmm......you could take that pesky EGR off and either clean it or toss it, but the latter isn't the way on your side of the pond is it....? MOT's can get hairy! No rub through on the inter cooler rad? Down where the scoop rubs the fins? Its a common issue in Canada, not sure if yours are the same?? The easiest way to clean the EGR is using petrol, again possibly not what the bobbies want you to do but I found it to cut through the black tar which is plugging up your EGR. Just a thought...?

I will say it again, IZZY is the man to see about anything electrical....it's what he does.....and he's good at it....lol. He deals with it every day at his day job....but that may be too much information...lol. Stickman007.....PM him if you haven't already and he's not far from you. Just saying....?

Welcome to the site, I'm sure someone who has more experience with this year can chime in to help....again welcome.

Looks like it's time to tke dash out and trace each wire running to the culprits...? Sorry to say?

I bought my new ones from MW-SMART years ago.......can't say if they have them now or what shipping is.....and also time of delivery.

The inside of the E box turns white, wash with vinegar and a toothbrush and recoat with clear nail polish. Stopped all future corrosion. That E box is connected to more than you want to know....as it's nearly impossible to delete so I'm told. Then move to a higher location......Mine is attached to the dash frame bar. Yes I had to fiddle with the wiring harness to get enough cable to get it neatly to this location but no wire cutting etc.

I removed my AC, so don't have this issue....lol...I guess....sorry I'm no good to you as I can't remember seeing a drain hose and I have had the entire car gutted....Hmmmm...? Sounds like you may have to lift your carpets and run the AC until you see where it's coming in from? Unless a helpful member chimes in.....sorry.

AC drain plug? Coolant or rad? Heater core? Typically it's the windshield that is leaking.....mine you could get a screwdriver between the glass and the bodywork...!!! it was so bad!!! Look for drip marks below the windshield area especially if you have any dust in that area. You can always lift up the rubber shield around the glass and see if there is any rusting there, just don't pry glass in any way. The other areas are sun roof, soft top and the rear corner windows. They also are a well known culprit for soaked carpets. I permanently siliconed mine in place, yes not the right way, but it solved the leaking after trying to reseal the foam type seals. To each their own...

Get another garage to check the strut bushings, maybe a broken spring and they can't see the top to know it's snapped off? Loose shock bolts? A arm bushings badly worn? Tie rod ends worn out? Get it to another mechanic who will look at it more closely. There isn't that much under there that this can be. Just my bent nickle's worth....sorry. By the way....welcome to the site....from an Ex-Pat.

Damn, that may cost you the same cost of the original purchase price!!!! I will say, after doing all that work it should drive like a new car, mine does.....the difference is amazing! The beater's days are very short now...lol.

Already sent....glad to help out.

Seems I didn't read the first line correctly....lol.

First off, welcome to the new site.....is the car a CDi or gasoline...? Or is that Petrol..? You said you checked all your grounds, does that mean you took them all apart? Does your SAM have a good ground? I haven't had a grounding issue with a SAM yet but when everything is acting like you say the only common thing is a ground. If it was anything else I bet you would see it in your SAM OR under dash as in a burned wiring harness that has shorted out? Have you had your dash off yet and run your eyes over all the wires that control the things that have a mind of their own??? Maybe it's just as simple as a shorted harness that is jacketed and you can't see it? ETC...??? Again welcome to the site and hopefully we can help you figure out what is causing the issues....