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Everything posted by Willys

  1. OK, finally the clever-end is installed and I have the front clip off now. I am going after all relay modifications to be done all at once. BUT....after cleaning up the oil/rustproofing etc etc..I have found a few broken wires....Hmmm...? I also found a wire cut from the cockpit area and am curious IF it should be connected...thoughts??? The joined white wire, originally from the brown cut wire, goes off into the wiring harness and is wrapped in official type tape not electrical tape, more like a black cloth type tape. Should this cut brown wire be out in the open and what was it for? I also have a few broken wires from the headlights etc that have vibrated and snapped. Poor previous soldering. All and any help is greatly appreciated. This is the best in focus pic I could get my new phone to take, just wouldn't focus on the brown wire I was after no matter what I did. Thanks.
  2. Heated seats are the two that the original doesn't have. Yes same year cars.... I did install the heated seats simply because they are stiffer due to the heat element....I personally do not like the feel of heated seats, but ....maybe they will grow on me..?
  3. Mine was doing the same thing.....The only real thing I did was lubricate and work the waste gate back and forth for it's entire travel and also mess with my emulator connection. I do not think it was the emulator, but could be wrong? What made me go after the waste gate was an over boost reading on my scanguageII 20 lbs when it should be 16 or so. It is now back to what it was originally 16.4 lbs. when I use the go peddle...lol. I could suggest a million other things but I expect you have checked most of them already. Simply checking wiring, leaks, shorts, gas peddle wire condition? ETC ETC....SAM, ECU and silver box plugs for corrosion...? The list is endless.....lol.
  4. My next issue is the cock-pit I had in the car originally only had two buttons and the one I want in there now has 4...and that means a different connector....the old style has a simple open mouthed thing that sides over the circuit board and the new one has a proper connector where it pugs into. So, I'm thinking I can simply cut and splice the wires from one plug to another as long as the wiring colours are the same. Hmmmm.....? I have another wiring harness to get the plug I require....it's from the car that I'm taking all these items from. I have found that many of the wires I need for things are already built in to the main wiring harness of the original car that has very few options. They simply didn't add the wiring for the options to plug into the main wiring harness. So fingers crossed.....
  5. Both Stickman007 and myself have aliexpress turbo and manifold kits, he has his on the road and mine is still in the garage but installed ready. He has said he hasn't had a second of problem with his. So for the price I'd buy another in a heartbeat! I have put up the location where I buy my nozzles from many times but I need to dig through all my paypal purchases to find it again so I think it would be faster for you to do a search here....lol. I'm in a rush at the moment to fetch a couch.....sorry. IF you have a U-Pull, I'd almost check their turbo situation ...? If the price is right of course. But alli was a great price.
  6. You can clamp it hard just where it "Y's" out at the top near the inlet port. Then add heat and some force and the nozzle cap will release. Yes I soak the entire thing up to the top plastic section. IF you want to you can take that apart also but no real need imho. I usually soak mine for 3 shots of 30 minutes and then see what they look like. Usually like new and a quick blast of air, they are waiting for new nozzles and caps. I don't touch the two mating surfaces.....in any way that is for the needle and push rod calibration. I haven't had one go wrong in any way yet and I have done 5 sets so far. It's easy if you have the tools and a bit of patience. Just do not mix any parts between the three injectors.....as in internal parts...just to be safe.
  7. Perhaps you can do a tutorial type thing in a step by step required to reset the seat belt light? IF not too much work etc etc...? That way more members could consider buying this machine?
  8. I'm still healing from welding an exhaust while wearing summer slip-on shoes made of some sort of mesh material.....perfectly round hole/crater left in the top of my foot! But I also have a loonie sized scar from the same thing while wearing work boots.....a lump of molten steel fell inside the boot and burnt it's way down to the top of my foot and simply sizzled until it cooled down. I couldn't get the boot off fast enough so I simply grit my teeth and waited! Hmmmm.....not sure if I should have tried to get it out or wait...? The scar is loonie sized and the same thing almost a crater...! When you are a welder fitter, these things happen....it's part of life. I find croc's the worst things to wear when working at anything.....slippery as goose shit and nails slide through them with ease! I don't own a pair of crocs any more...lol.!!!
  9. What exactly are you asking...? You basically repeated the procedure to do the job as best I/we can without sending them to an injector shop and paying huge money for them to do it for you.....OR...you can ship your injectors to me and I can do it for you as I have the cleaner and tools needed....but you supply the injectors and new nozzles... IF you want to do this PM me and we'll talk money.
  10. Thanks guys....I personally like the crimp shrink tube type connectors, with a second layer of shrink tubing over the crimp. Between the two it makes a strong solid connection compared to a simple soldered wire with shrink tubing covering it. To each their own, there is many ways to get to the same place....personal choice. Again thanks for the help.
  11. Unfortunately I have found that our modern cameras are far too good at taking high res. photos. This mb count is far above the limit set by our site from what I understand....my new to me, the lowest budget phone takes 12. something mb pictures. I have found that in the settings on the phone you can turn down this to just about 2 mb sized pictures....that should fit the site's restrictions....no..? BUT it ruins the high quality pics for every day needs or likes. You could always turn the needed pictures down to the lowest setting which is what my phone is just about 2 mb and then turn it back up for your daily pictures....? But far easier is to use a site like suggested above. Unless you like me do not care about resolution on my daily pictures etc.
  12. Would the more open looking of the two flow better even though it has less filtering? OR could the material be denser...? But as you say, performance wise I doubt it would make a noticeable difference...?
  13. Hmmm....seeing as you are widening the rear so far , ever thought of a Toyota Echo power plant? I had a 2005 Echo and put 560 K on it and it screamed when you allowed it to. Can't imagine what a Smart would be like with that in it....but then again the Echo was a very light car also. Bulletproof engine too boot.
  14. gt300 body kit

    Excellent....keep posting....pics of the process.....the end result will show why people do this amount of work even when others can't envision the finished product...imho. As the saying goes, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, besides....it's yours not theirs....so if it makes you smile then scre----'em...!...lol It's the principle I have always worked with...lol.
  15. Welcome to the club and site.....beautiful car ....Damn! OK I'll be the smart ass in the crowd and suggest a big hammer.....???...No...? lol The next question is, any internals done to the engine..? Always great to hear other throwing cash at a crazy project to make it your own. Again welcome. Keep the pics coming...!
  16. LOVE it!! A man after my own heart, a true modder. Please make sure you do a complete build series so we can follow along. Can't wait to see and hear about this project!
  17. Could you simply use the 450 half shafts to reduce the 451 mechanical width, or is the actual shaft thickness different? Spline count different? Then it also comes down to electronics, do both power plants have the identical readings for all of the sensors etc..? Would the computers find irregularities etc etc
  18. Check oil pan seal. IF you must take engine out, drop sub frame, far easier in the long run imho. 4 main bolts and 6 small screws for air intake tube and then simply watch wiring etc and fuel lines for stretching etc. Once you have sub frame dropped everything else is simple to see and get at. Once you have done it, it's by far the easiest way to work on this car....again imho. As for oil leak, also check all intercooler hoses for pin hole. Do the EGR delete or bypass. Speak with stickman007 for emulator info. OR leave EGR in place and do the spin of the module 180 degrees to stop air flow...I personally like the removing it completely way as it frees up space and makes getting at the high pressure fuel pump far easier to remove. Research catch can here or over at Evilution.uk.co some used to like this mod...I don't have the oil issue so never did it. Again to each their own. IF you want to get really interested in crankcase blockages etc, take valve cover off and clean it. It has two parts and between the two gets seriously plugged up with carbon I found. Gas is the best solution to break down the sludge. IMHO. IF you do the EGR delete you can remove the hot water pipe from thermostat area and also clean up 3-4 feet of hosing from engine bay. I'm personally a person who goes way over board with cleaning and such to keep my engines working as best they can. Your engine will run perfectly fine without doing much at all if you so choose, but peace of mind is huge for me to know I have done all I can do to make things operate better. I have 2 smarts and both have had this all done to them. No issues at all. Again to each their own.
  19. This site needs to keep a hard copy of all actual fixes and repairs etc etc before it's gone for the benefit of any future owners, as it is the best CDI Smart Car site on the planet....imho. Is there any restrictions on someone making a hard copy of all repairs and fixes/solutions concerning our vehicles in case the virtual information goes missing, similar to this site being mentioned above? This information isn't to be sold just saved? It just seems to me to be a sensible idea for someone to do this.......?
  20. Start checking all your grounding pins and all wiring that leads to the actuator for rub throughs, shorting? Check all connections/plugs for corrosion at the SAM, ECU, Speedo as these cars are notorious for water leaks which result in corrosion. Especially on the grounding locations....I know i keep harping on this but you'd be surprised how many are solved by bad grounds. At the worst you may need to remove seats and carpeting to get to all the wiring under it to make 100% sure it's not under the carpet where most of the rusting happens. Your car may be different but I'd check. When you check your ECU on the side of the air box, BEWARE...it contains capacitors and they will discharge if you short out two pins in the plugs, ask me how I know!!!!! An ECU isn't cheap and requires a STAR to re-introduce it to the other computers in the car or the car is scrap! BEWARE.....I used sensor cleaner and a plastic toothbrush and in the suds I saw a flash of lightening, instantly showing me I cooked it! I's now use a wooden tooth pic and nothing else to slowly rub off any corrosion making damned sure I do not bend any pins. There are only 3 pins that seem to go green and two are in the very corner of the plug. Again check all plugs for all computers first.....then grounding pins then wiring.
  21. Yep them numbers are correct....! 20.6 psi recorded on the ScanGuageII as I drove normally around.....Hmmmm....? Yes it was the cause of my daily limp mode issues. What a shame...lol. Yes would I like to keep them. But, not the hassle of constantly shutting off the car and restarting it to clear the limp issues. So, this is what I get for not driving my car during the COVID crisis as much as usual....AUGH...! Tomorrow's job IF it's not raining will be to remove rear bumper bodywork to expose the waste gate and see if it is seized....FFS...! Not a big job compared to what it may be if not this fix. I was thinking the turbo had given up the ghost, or worse! Time to get serious and finish the other car before another winter goes by and I get left stranded without a set of Smart wheels. I have been putting off working on the good car simply because this car was running so well....time to stop thinking it'll last forever. Time to get back in the garage. First to fix the EXTRA BOOST issue then re-start work on the good car. So, if not the waste gate what's the guess to fix this problem....Taking bets now......lol. Anyone......?
  22. Welcome to the club and site....nice looking Smart....take some close up pics of the interior and engine bay....that will definately help determine what it is you have.....I personally could tell .....I'm not interested in models over fuel savings as in MPGs etc.... again nice Smart all the same even if it isn't what they said.....
  23. Sorry I don't think i have seen the inner temp sender yet as I don't use the A/C in my cars.....even at mid 30's temps, I prefer the windows down but also suffer if in traffic...lol. Sorry, yes the wire/cable that adjusts the flaps are on the right hand side and also possibly the left side, but I think it's one the right side....if memory serves me somewhat well...lol. The wire simply has a loop at the end which pushes onto a pin on an arm that adjust the air. It gets pushed off easily if you aren't careful.
  24. Just a thought, there is a wire that opens the flap to direct the air, it comes loof the pin it operates...did you check this also? Simple issue easy fix, maybe? Lower right hand side open to everything so can be knocked off by feet or items thrown in passenger foot space..?