Willys

I have plenty of information I used but it isn't in any printed single manual......I gathered a 5 inch deep binder from every smart car site I could over many years. Building the engine is typical tolerances and specs. I rebuilt the entire engine to like new condition, anything worn was either machined or replaced down to every nut and bolt. MW-Smart in Germany is the go to place for anything Smart Car related IMHO. BUT, I was warned by them they have been screwed over by a few Americans cancelling their order after it was shipped, so now they demand everything paid up front until they get to know you. They are very nice people to deal with and very helpful. They have everything you could possibly need from old stock to rebuild engines. Their stock keeps changing as they keep finding new old stock parts locations. The only thing I had to buy from Romania was the vacuum plump for the brake booster that lives on the righthand side of the head. You will find the cogs will be beaten usually. I can go on for a while....contact me.... Always happy to help.

Sorry didn't read this post until today, these people are top notch imho, I bought everything to fully rebuild my engine from them without any issue at all. This was 5 years ago probably now but still I would buy from them in a heartbeat if I needed anything. IMHO, you must buy the correct over sized piston kit after you have measured your block. Also checked your cylinders for irregular distortion as in waves in the walls of the cylinders. Mine was terrible. Luckily the only kit they had was 3 over as it took that much to correct the cylinders. I agree it seems people think these cars and or mechanical parts are gold plated used which is resulting in so many getting crushed. I also agree with buying all new internal parts IF you have the funds. imho the end result will be an engine that will outlast the rest unless you pay the same attention to rust issues. Keep up the good work and keep posting.

Could be part of the drive cogs for the air pump for the brakes located next to the oil fill cap top righthand side of the engine. IF it is, I'd be asking is it a good usable engine? Those cogs take a beating from what I have seen. They are easily replaced with a new pump so look to see if that pump was replaced at some point. In any case I'd be digging into that engine before relying on it to be a good runner. Sorry to say.

Re-read my above posts, they all work and stay relevant imho. The lift is easy if you have basic mechanical abilities. Then you can choose to go a step further and eat into the inner front fender wells for clearance issues for even wider tires. It takes a very bad pot holed road for me to think it wasn't worth it. Just adjust the tire pressures to suit to road surfaces. There are many threads on lifting Smart Cars and how far you can go. Mild to insane.....it comes down to your personal choices. IMHO, lifting the Smart doesn't effect the handling as long as you use the wider rims off the rear all around. IF it gets too squishy increase the tire pressure back to normal and suffer the bumps or adjust your driving style and lower

I only have 3 on the road vehicles at the moment and really only one is being used. I have a completely fitted out van for traveling in that is used solely for what it was built for, then I have my 2005 CDI fully restored sleeping in my garage where it will stay until it's needed once again. That leaves my daily driver a 1991 Volvo 244, completely stock and basically rust free. I'm the second owner and seeing as it doesn't have much in the way of electric powered or electronic systems , it's almost built proof on the maintenance front. So I suppose I have already shaved my fleet down to one usable vehicle with two sitting on the side lines IF they are needed. This is a far cry from my worst, 8 insured and used vehicles.....the savings in ins alone is enough to keep it the new norm. Yes they are all insured but only one is fully insured for immediate road use. OK......thanks for not including other idiotic mechanical projects.....lol. My main concern for the next few years is to replace all my hip and knee joints. I'm almost halfway there. This has stopped all mechanical projects in their tracks.

Glad you found the issue. You could also fine polish the drum track if you are that anal...lol It's relatively simple transmission once you stare at it long enough....lol. Yours looks relatively clean inside, mine had some brown oil stuck on the case which needed cleaning off. I took the entire thing apart to check all bearings thinking they may have been an issue also. Not the case.

IF you can get some heat into the engine do it before attacking the glow plugs, but if not a solid 10mm deep socket and careful pressure should release them. Do it like a tap and out a bit then back in to try and keep the fine threads of the plugs intact.

I'd take those numbers too, if I had the beauty which you drive in.....there is nothing to compare to the mountains of BC, imho.

Yes they sit flush, and the needle should slide into the nozzle easily. I hate electronics and can't figure it out without a nose bleed...lol....so I phone a friend when it comes to the white smoke....lol. Have you tried Izzy, Stickman007. He is a wizard in the white smoke section....and a great guy to deal with. He's just north west of Edmonton also. Electronics is his specialty.

Have you checked all the wiring to the injectors? Sorry too lazy to re-read all our posts...lol. I have a lot of house repairs on my plate at the moment. Sorry. I have heard that someone had a bad connection at the top of the injector...? Do you have a membership to Evilution? Well worth the price of admission imho........days of information in their library......I haven't been their in years so can't say what it's like today...?

Soak everything in diesel as you assemble the injectors. I made the mistake on a set and forgot about them and assembled them perfectly clean and dry, 3 months later they were rusted solid!!!! RUINED!!!! I now soak them in diesel and they stay perfectly fresh! My sonic cleaner was $200 many years ago before they got cheaper in price. It's a 6 litre model and 6" deep I think, rectangular in shape.

And the range if you do not live in an urban area, imho. Then add in the extreme cold weather that these electric vehicles seem to work less in. My brother's mustang ev left him sitting in the middle of feb for hours in the wee hours a few times.....he's now back to reliable fosil fuels....lol. To each their own and yes for city dwellers I agree, the perfect solution for smog and pollution. My son has had a tesla now for two models changes, he's hooked, but has to route his driving around fast charging sites and he lives in a city. They are constantly following the charger app when they come to visit.....again to each their own.

My Smart if driven no more than 10kms over the limit and carefully up to speed was steadily at 3.5 The lowest I have seen it iirc was 2.7 but I do not know how or why.....????? My best numbers were always when I wasn't watching the scangauge

I hang the top out of the sonic cleaner and do the entire injector, then take nozzles out and do them separately as many times as it takes to get them as clean as I want them. You are really after that spray pattern as best you can get it.....many baths and then slap nozzles on injector and spray carb clean through to see if you gat the 5 spray pattern. I have never tried heat as I expect the nozzles to be tempered and the needle looks like it has a coating on it? The needle must seat correctly inside the nozzle or you will get poor spray and complete shut off of fuel....no...??? The trick is to make sure you have one injector untouched while doing the other two, so when you forget how all the shaft and spacers, washer etc go in sequence, you have something to go back to. Sorry should have said this at first....lol. The injectors live in a hot environment when engine is running so not sure if you can loosen the crud that way...????? Be interesting to see if you do try and it works without ruining the nozzle...?

No rubber O ring in the caps or above the caps for the nozzles. Sorry thought LLNs was refering to the injector seats, I did the same thing for my glow plug holes, greased up drill bit and your shop vac.... So they have gone up some since I bought my set....lol....not by much though!! They used to be dirt cheap! I used to go in and buy all they had, seeing I was taking my injectors in and out so frequently. NO WIRE ANYTHING anywhere near the tip of the nozzles, UNLESS you want to buy new nozzles....!!!!! I would try and find nozzles before trying using anything but chemical cleaning. I have a 6 quart sonic cleaner and I can submerge the entire injector. Also, be very careful not to mix up the parts between your injectors....easily done if you get carried away. Nothing beats the results you can get from sonic cleaning, even multiple baths in very hot fluids. About sonic cleaners, you can just put your dirty parts in a tuperware container in strong carb cleaner, floating inside just clean water. It helps stop the contamination of the whole cleaner unit and wasting expensive cleaner so quickly. Youtube trick and it works! Research it if you want. Under very strong magnifiers you can see the deformation of the orfises(?) from the high pressure fuel being sprayed out of them. That is after they are clean.

As LLNS suggests, look on amazon and find the injector seat cutting kit, $39 ish I think it was.....far easier than welding a drill bit and getting the seat angle wrong. It'll leak. The kit comes with 5 or so different angled cutting tools. Works extremely well. As for the copper washers, that's a dealership trip and when there buy two sets, they are relatively cheap or at least they used to be.

I too have bought everything from these people and have had nothing but great service and at the time prices from them. Yes they take time to get things to you at times due to distance but they have everything. New or used. I also bought many things at a time to reduce shipping costs as they have a standard small, medium and large shipping box etc they seem to use so you can get the same shipping cost for multiple items I have found. They are also a very busy place so patience is key, and their first tongue is German.....lol. They also demand payment up front, thanks to some nasty North Americans stiffing them for payment after they had shipped the product. Completely understandable IMHO. on their part.

You can get a larger thick washer and use the round side of a ball peen hammer and form a larger end to the actuator rod and weld it in place and make nice using a grinder etc and trial fit by hand to feel what it rotates like against the clutch fork. No need to replace fork if the hole is just a simple hole just larger than the rod itself. I would only change the clutch fork if the end is totally deformed and weak. IF you have the use of a lathe you can do as I did and turn a new rod with larger ball end.....but that requires a lathe and some time etc.....but far better result.

Just curious, have you cleaned or checked all three computers for corrosion? Vinegar and a toothbrush will get all the white water corrosion off and then re-apply a clear nail polish over damaged areas to keep new corrosion to a minimum. Check all connections for the green corrosion etc etc.....just be warned....the ECU saves a charge and you can short it out and then it's JUNK, ask me how I learned this...lol. Check SAM for any cold solder joints, it's well known for this issue for many pins. Just solder sucker the old solder and reapply new. Must use high heat small tip soldering iron or you will cook the board before removing old solder....again, ask me how...lol.

lol.....yep, a good slide hammer wins again! Those injectors look dirty....lol. Soak them well in strong carb cleaner, not the green version. Then take a spray can of strong carb cleaner and blast down the inlet tube to clean out the innerds....you could also take the nozzles off each injector and carefully using a soft bristled brush NOT and type of wire!!!! Sacrifice many old tooth brushes or find a stiff natural type brush like the bambo ones for a BBQ again not anything made of metal/wire. The wire brushes will deform the openings of the nozzle and you'll be buying new nozzles if you can find them? They must be identical to what you have in there now. Once you do get the nozzles out you can now flush them using carb cleaner again. You are looking for 5 strong streams of fluid coming from the end. 4 going equally spaced apart and a single spraying off on it's own path, it's directed at the glow plug. You can mark scratch the body of the injector and side of body of nozzle before taking them apart to make sure you replace the nozzle in the right configuration. Just do not touch the end of the nozzles. The end cap for the nozzles are TIGHT! But they do release with pressure. Do not use the top hexhead to hold the injector as it's very weak and it'll break trying to undo nozzle caps. You must clamp body near the top of the injector body in a strong vice to be able to break those caps free, imho. Also do not use a thin piece of wire to try and clean out nozzle holes, you'll only (F) them up. You only used forced cleaner through the nozzle to clean them as best you can after a good soaking. Some folks say you can use oven cleaner...? I always use the strongest carb cleaner and plenty of it. The best way is a sonic cleaner. When you get the nozzles out you will find a needle inside the nozzle. Look at the sharp end and see if it is badly scorned, it'll have deep groove worn into it from constant beating open and closed. IF really deformed think about new nozzles. The used to be around $60 each about 5 years ago. I do not remember if it was amazon or ebay where I was finding them, but the numbers and even the plus marks must be the same or you won't get the correct fuel delivered through the injectors. I'm sure there are many threads researching injectors on this site. Good luck.

Do a deep search on injectors and servicing them here, I'm sure all this has been asked and answered already, yes I'm trying to not have to look it up myself....lol. Too tired and lazy, just ripped out our main bathroom to redo it...sorry. I have posted a pic or the injector tool I had up to add to a slide hammer which works very well to solve the siezed injector issue. Yes it also requires some welding to make it.....lol.

IF you took your transmission apart???? Did you rebuild it correctly? The gear select forks I am refering to at the two that guide the syncos(?) cynko(?) Can't spell it it's one of my strong points....lol. The collar that joins different sprockets or gears together to give you the gear selections...? The forks follow a groove on a drum inside the transmission. One of my motorcycle transmissions was similar to this one. As for wiring, the main issue was where it went over the air scoop or tunnel if I recall correctly. The grounds are a big issue and yes there are many to hunt for. They all look the same, a post with multiple wire loops or eyes stacked on them. The must be dismantled and cleaned between the eyes just to be 100% sure they get the best connection. under the dash, check the firewall. Under the centre tunnel near the shifter. There is also one under the carpet under the driver's seat again iirc. All ground wires are brown, solid brown. The other thing I found was the crimp for the terminal connection sometimes is too tight and has cut through the wire itself and breaks the connection if bent or wiggled. Check continuity from wire to the tip of the terminals, past the crimp section.

I bought mine simply to get as far away from modern day electronics....lol My biggest issue was getting a key blank to cut new keys.....the ones I bought were slightly too thick and required to be carefully filed down to work perfectly. I have to say, not worrying about sams and complicated ecus and ign lock outs etc etc, is refreshing....lol

That is the compression tester I bought and modified to work. A bad injector will cause all sorts of sounds and cause black smoke.....start there imho

Yank all glow plugs and see if the compression is the same, I had to make a adapter to to get a cheaper compression tester to fit down in the glow plug location. Also check injectors for see if one is clogged or damaged? All free things to check even if you just do a dirty field test for the compression and guess if it has any or not compared to the other two....? Does the alt. spin freely?