ozca2

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About ozca2

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  • Location
    Nova Scotia. Canada
  1. Hi All, and thanks Willys. I'm back. Sorry but have been busy with working on my home getting ready to sell and had a few health issues as well. Have parked the Smart for now. Anyhow, about the %$#@ Smart cdi fuel pump leaking, I have jacked it up as high as the jack will go and supported on stands. removed everything to enable access to the pump solenoid, was able to remove it and found a suitable O'ring at an industrial supply store, refitted the solenoid with a little Permatex gasket cement and ran the engine but still leaking very slowly from the CYLINDER HEAD gasket, not the solenoid !! Apparently it was n't the solenoid leaking. Seems like I'll have to remove the pump again and redo the one cylinder. When I dismantled the pump for the rebuild I noticed that it must have been rebuilt before using some hardened sealant on the gaskets and the little steel ferrule making it difficult to remove. I think if I rebuild that one cylinder it will be ok. So, Willys, do you have enough seals to rebuild the one cylinder, I also need a couple of the cylinder head bolts. Regards, Ozca2
  2. Found the exact Bosch shutdown solenoid, appears that the green o'ring comes with the solenoid, see it here, http://partsbos.com/fuel-control-valves/520-bosch-0928400323-mb-A6110780649-smart-6110780649-dodge.html Unfortunately they no longer have stock, but now I have something to go search further.
  3. Hi Sydney, Not far from Sydney. NS ! about 78km down the 105. I was not able to locate a suitable o'ring so am trying to download a Smart parts manual from emanualonline dotcom and try to get a part number for the o'ring and the solenoid.
  4. Hi Tolsen, The pump itself is working fine with no leaks anywhere and the engine starts and runs "beautifully" but the leak is coming from the solenoid base ( as I understand it, this solenoid is supposed to control when all 3 cylinders fire or only two under light load) there is a green o'ring that seals the solenoid base into the cylinder head.and it is retained by three screws, Our only Mercedes dealer cannot supply the o'ring... onty a new pump! Perhaps the o'ring comes with a new solenoid. They have to back order most Smart parts.. So, today I will try some local parts stores for the Viton o'ring.and failing that the simplest answer seems to be make up a plate and gasket to replace the @#$% solenoid.
  5. I have just finished rebuilding my 2006 cdi high pressure fuel pump and after installing it ran the engine for a few minutes to determine if there were any leaks. The HP pump looked fine but after a few minutes there was a leak just like before the rebuild, the leak is from the solenoid. The rebuild o'ring pack did not include the solenoid o'ring so reused the old one.....too bad as that was likely the original leak issue. After spending a considerable amount of time trying to remove the solenoid without dismantling the entire job again. As you all know it is difficult to work on this little beast, I needed room to work on removing the two allen and one torx screws from the solenoid. By unbolting the rear x frame I was able to make enough room to work on removing the solenoid screws. Can anyone please explain how to properly install the solenoid with a new o'ring. Do you put the o'ring on the solenoid small groove first then gently insert it into the pump cylinder head? Or do you insert the o'ring into the cylinder head first? Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Thanks, I believe I have been in contact with "Sydney" and he does own a few diesel Smarts, we are going to meet next time I'm over at Sydney the City.
  7. Hi Willys, thank you for the welcome. As you would also know, these cars are #@%&& to work on but once you get them running and take it for a drive all of the bad goes away. I live on a private road and my mailbox is about a km away so thats my daily fun drive.
  8. Thanks for the welcome. Near Whycocomagh and thats about 80km away. Your little driver is pretty good at gear changes!!
  9. I'm now the owner of a 2006 Smart fortwo CDi Pure. Its red and black and has approx 130450kms. Its in pretty good shape overall, still needs some work like replace the brake light switch and align the headlights and then it might pass the roadworthy inspection. The former owner had tried to install a new water pump and belts but was unable to get the 7 bolts out of the pump.... but after I lowered the engine by following the tips from Evilution and FQ101.CO.UK then I was able to remove the old pump. I installed the water pump pulley using standard octagonal head metric bolts with spring washers and cut to the same length as the original torx head bolts. The octagonal head bolts make it easier to remove the pulley and to access the pump body bolts. After installing the new belts everything works and it runs quite well. These little cars could become collector cars in a few years. They are fun to drive for sure and I cannot wait to get this little diesel on the road.The nearest Mercedes dealer is 400km away in Halifax.
  10. White smoke is usually an indication of water entering the cylinder/s. Perhaps a head gasket problem, or a crack somewhere.allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
  11. I'm the new owner of a well worn 2006 smart fortwo cdi that needs a few repairs. t The previous owner said that he tested the rear wiper/wash and found the water running down the inside of the window. As an old guy now, I was trained as an auto mech going back long ago before anything like a Smart existed. So getting to the leaking rubber tube seemed like an easy job...think again....I'm finding that without a workshop manual, everything is extremely difficult the first time around with a Smart. Because the tube is/was attached to the rear window with a plastic nipple on each side of the frame and both were broken off. What a poor design! I removed the entire window.and modified the tube setup by drilling a hole through the plastic frame and inserted a plastic connector nipple through the frame and connected both tubes. The drilled hole needs sealing around the nipple/tubes.. Assembling the whole thing required considerable dexterity by yourself, however now I think the job could be accomplished by removing the inner cover and the plastic high mount tail lamp assembly two screws, no need to remove the window like I did.