PowerShellMan

Regular Members
  • Content count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About PowerShellMan

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
  1. Ok that could work, save a bit of painting. Price and then we'd have to figure logistics as I'm up here in Ottawa
  2. Never considered the dealer would provide warranty on a repair on a 2006 Smart. Something to consider next time
  3. The cost was to cover parts (It was about $300 on the Starter) but mostly labour to do the usual (drop the engine, remove the old starter, drop in the new, move engine back up)
  4. That was to replace the Starter. Don is pretty good at figuring out ways around things but this starter was definitely toasted. Dropped the money, got it fixed, starts like a dream now
  5. So dumb dumb me had to push one of the smarts up the driveway with the other (Desperate times call for stupid desperate measures) The damage is on the bottom of the rear bumper or whatever we call it on the Smart. My Blue Passion has the section that is all black but it's not paint, looks more plastic and big chunks are off it now. Is there a particular coating that needs to go back on this or does anybody thing good old fashioned Black Rockerguard sprayed LIBERALLY across it would be decent looking?
  6. I found the cover in question. This was missing / removed on my Blue one but intact on my White one (same year... go figure) So if I do the "Cheat drop" which is a partial lower you're thinking I could at least get my "Meat hooks" onto the Solenoid wire? I'll give it a shot. I have it scheduled for July 15th (budget) for Don to do the work. Part (new Bosch) plus labour tax is just under $1400 (which I have expected and am budgeting for)
  7. Ok ... jacked up each quarter and checked. Front Driver side bearing is probably toasted. New part in from RockAuto for Friday. Got the Grinder ready for the leftover bit and a "Fun" Friday afternoon. <Sarcasm>Woohoo!</Sarcasm>
  8. I was about to look into fixing the bearing on my 2006 Smart Fortwo when my mechanic (Excellent fellow up here in Ottawa, Don Fournier) suggested to look at the "Brake Shield" Would this be something on the front or the back that might go or get loose?
  9. I've heard it's possible to get the wire for the Solenoid removed/reseated if I drop the Plastic cover for the belts. Anybody have some guidance where this cover is? Removing the inner line is of course easy (3 10mm bolts and curse a bit) But can't find the magic cover that's being referred to.
  10. Had to swap out the stock block heater in my 2006 (it was actually shorting out the house) and put in a Silicone oil pan heater. So have a laugh. Got the Silicone pad warmer installed just BEFORE things turned nasty and even picked up a cabin heater. I left it (the cabin heater) "unmounted" so I can switch back and forth between the cars On the maiden voyage I hear a "thwap thwap thwap" and (This why I am NOT a mechanic) I had inadvertently chosen the rear axle as a tie off point (I ran the power out the back). Looking under, ripped the power cord in half and *OUT* of the silicone piece. Impressively the piece is completely intact while "sans wire connected" As a backup plan I've put a battery blanket around the Smart battery and will keep the cabin and Battery warm. I also have a backup Eliminator booster pack (the kind that runs a Hair Dryer) The battery Blanket was all of $45. Putting it IN to the car (as it makes the battery physically larger) will probably mean a run to the LCBO to "deal with the stress" So we will see how the little White run fairs the winter with a 3 hour timer daily to warm the cabin and keep the battery warm with an 80watt blanket
  11. On the Diesel (450 CDI) I'd be curious on just how much extra "oomph!" you can get from this
  12. Agreed. I had it and cranked it up once.... way too much ( but fun to know I can) My summer project is to pull out the dash in the passion to find out what sub Mercedes wired in. There is one there and not under a seat. Under the dash and it used caps I think as I draws off left and right only and patched right into my Pioneer with no wiring change
  13. Excellent. In my case @LooseLugNuts This is a standard 12" Sub from Polk Audio in a Box from Best Buy (or whomever sells them). It just sits behind the driver seat, the Orion amp bolted on and all wires passing from the dash. I initially thought the amp was dead. This was my First ever amp wired in so I didn't know about the Pulse wire. I might just order in some extra connectors from Orion and pre-wire the second. The sub is HEAVY and....as far as music goes..... This sucker will be getting some ZZtop, Rush, Aerosmith.... "real music"
  14. So I expect the Alternator is putting out "just enough" for the car. Has anybody put a "Real Sub" behind the driver or passenger seat? Here's what I picked up 12" Polk Audio in proper box - $25 Value Village (yes works!) 140 watt Orion Audio Amp - $25 Value Village (a different one) So.... here's the question. If I plug it all in could it draw more current than the Alternator in a 2006 CDI puts out? or how close am I?
  15. I've been itching to drop in LED's for the low beams but the cost (usually about $140 at Canadian Tire) has made me blink and buy something a bit cheaper. On a drive back from Campbellford at about 8pm I lost one low at a Wendy's in Perth and then 15km later lost it's twin. So yeah, I was one of those "High Beam Bobby" idiots for that last hour to home. Turns out there is a new brand (Probably Canadian Tire's own) called "Ignite" that has a pair of H7 LEDS for $50. I'll get them mounted on Friday and let you know how they are.