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As is, no biggie If I do not sell it, it just has to be parked for another 1.5 years due to insurance issues. 147,000km, started on the 3rd cycle after storing it for the winter, I start it up every couple of weeks and it starts right up on the 2nd cycle. It has an intermittent ABS/caution light, the check engine has not come on so far this year, then again I have only driven it a couple of km. It has a work around brake switch and I kissed a Bell box and cracked the rear bumper on the left. 2000 bucks and located in eastern ontario near Hawkesbury.

Do you think the radio is accepting the code? Does the same thing happen if you put in the wrong code?

I park mine for the winter, remove the battery, before reinstalling it in the Spring, I give it a 4 hr. charge, install it and turn the key. I also change the oil when it tells me to.

This is my first diesel, can one do a compression test and narrow down the cause?

Previously to parking the 05 CDI ( 145K) for the winter, I got the PO302 and about a month later the P0303. It would fire up on the first pull but run rough (2 cylinders I'm guessing) until it warmed up a bit and as soon as I drove away increasing the RPM (high fuel pressure), it drove as it should for the rest of the day. But as the temperatures dropped (from 10C, the above example, to 5C and then around 0) it would take 4 pull cycles to keep running, but again once the fuel pressure increased, it would run fine for the day. I'm leaning toward replacing injector (s). I was also putting injector cleaner in every other tank, it made no difference. What should I do when Spring rolls around?

A cabrio would have done better, the ladder at a 45 may have pulled it off. I brought back 2x4s that way and felt secure on the drive home:)

I erred yesterday by backing into a hedge that had the invisible Bell phone box hidden in there (not the pale green one but a steel one, must be old). Anyway damage was done, I have the larger of the broken pieces but at the moment haven't found the small one. I am looking at Gorilla tape from behind as the temp repair. Is the small third rear bumper panel available or does one have to get the whole unit? Any available?

Not the brake switch, I tried 2, I am concerned about bypassing since someone mentioned above that it might brick the car if one bypassed the SAM. I am going to try a parallel bypass and see what happens. Item 12 on my list of things to do....

Follow up troubleshooting, I have 12V+ on both sides of the fuse with brake on and off. My obd2 reader is simply a code reader, I would need a more precise one, suggestions? I was thinking a grounding issue, I've read lately someone asking for all ground locations. Is that available? A question about Day running lights, do the rear top lights come on with the daytime running lights?. Mine are always on (rears) Lastly, does someone have the wiring diagram for the brake circuit? Thanks

The 05 CDI has no brake lights, it had...The brakes lights used to work prior to the ABS/caution light coming on (which was associated with the using the hand brake, shifting and brake pedal). Now the brake lights do not work at all. Did the obvious, bulbs, fuse and brake switch. I am leaning toward a wire/connection/solder in the SAM. Can I just bypass the SAM by connecting the brake switch wire to piggyback fuse holder on an existing fuse in the fuse box? Or is there something more obvious that I am missing?

I took a tester to the old brake switch, definitely u/s, re-inspected the new one to see if it was defective, I got readings with the tester, so I will say it functions. At the moment I have no brake lights, ABS and caution light are on. I checked the rings, clean and unbroken, pick up sensor is in the same condition. bulbs, fuse all good. Now working on the grounds.

I replace the brake switch a few days ago, it made no difference, prior to that, I found the top rear lights always on with the car running and sometimes the front left blinker light is always on. I did the obvious first, I checked the fuse and the bulbs, all good, sounds like a grounding issue to me, where to look?

Follow up troubleshooting; on start up the dash is clear of lights, at idle in the driveway, pump the brakes a few times, nothing, hand brake up and down a few times, nothing, in gear and hand brake down, abs/caution light turns on, also , foot on brake in gear, release foot brake, abs/caution light turns on. Would this be associated with the brake sensor under the car under the brake pedal?

After 5.5 months of winter storage, Smartypants kicked over about 4-5 times and sparked right up!! Prior to storage (few days) I lost power (I think I mentioned this in a post last Fall) my troubleshooting consisted of inspecting the waste gate arm and the EGR. While looking at the EGR I noticed a wire hanging down with a sensor dangling. It was the AIT, cleaned and reinstalled and the power is back. My question, why did it not throw a code? ABS/caution triangle; also previously mention but hey, this is a new season so I will start all over. The light(s) have come on before and maybe a month later would just go out and life is back to normal. When it happened again, I took a closer look at the ring sensors, and their respective connectors, all looked clean. What is my next troubleshoot?

I was finishing my quick TransEuropean tour when I spotted the next generation Smart #3 in Nantes,France. First impression was that this was not a small car anymore.

If I saw this in my rear view mirror, I would be pulling over at once....

I feels like limp mode but I can hit 4000rpm, maybe it is my sensitivity but as I accelerate, I feel/hear air escaping ever so lightly behind me, I checked that out with my neighbour but did not find anything. My previous limp mode was limited to exactly 3000, so I am leaning toward Xen0 above. Checked OBDII yesterday, nothing. I did however find a new oil patch (size of a couple of loonies) at the end of the suspension arms joined at the center (right behind the bumper) it looks like the oil is traveling down the sloped arm all the way down to the left near the corner bumper.. Looking at the oil source today. the 05 gets parked on Saturday for the winter. I have not swapped out/blanked the EGR, on the todo list.....

The previous limp mode would never allow me to go above 3000rpm, under this condition I can wind it up to red line. No CEL then again I have not plugged in my obd2 either.

In the past I found the 05 cdi would go into limp mode if I drove high rpm with a cold engine. Reset and all would go back to normal. Yesterday, highway speed, 6 gear, 100km/hr and the car starts to slow down, give it more gas until I am flat on the floor hovering top end at a 100 but slight rises and she would slow down to mid 80's (still flat to the floor), 5th bring it back up to 100 (3500rpm) back into 6th. I am leaning to a turbo issue but at slower speeds I can hear the whine of the turbo. I have not popped the hood yet but what can I expect to find?

would the CAn bus error throw a code? No CEL in my case

Just to review this issue, inspected the coolant level, it was a tad low (I added a cup or 2 of coolant) and the issue has not reappeared.

After 4 crank/no start situations (last 15 months) I am proceeding with the relay bypass mod. Unfortunately, I only found the headlight mod under this category. Well if someone says it is the same, that is like saying apples and oranges are the same since they both come from a tree. If someone has a step by step on how to do the fuel pump mod please directed it my way. I tried following the headlight mod directions but TLDR and found parts missing that led me down the road of confusion. Aside from the clearer directions, I can not get my head around the issue in the first place, if the existing fuel relay is sometimes defective, and if we are tapping into the same wires of the circuit, what keeps the new mod from going u/s? Maybe what I need is a circuit diagram showing the location of the existing fuel pump relay in respect to the mod fuel pump relay. PS after the crank/no starts, I discoed the n111 bus and inspected both it and fuse 16 (all good), reinstalled them, turned the key and the fuel pump hummed!!

-3C in a damp garage this morning, 5 seconds for the glow plug light to go out, it farted a couple of times on the first start cycle, no problem, I will get it on the 2nd go around, but no, nothing, just a crank no start. So my question is, how do you know if all the glow plugs are working? Does a CEL come on if less than 3 work? Can I put a hair dryer in there to heat things up while I troubleshoot? I have had fuel issues in the past and part of my brain is leaning in that direction.

There I was minding my own business going about 80 in 5th gear and it just stalled, single horizontal bar flashing, followed by the temp blobs flashing and on the 2nd flash, the gas blobs got in sync with the temp blobs and flashed together. Slowly pulled over, slid the shifter in neutral but as the car slowed, it was never in neutral and chugged to a stop in gear. Is the Smart just being a Smart? Does it know I am looking at another vehicle? I did the Smart thing, pulled the key, waited 20 seconds, started right up and was back on my way. It did it again 5 minutes later and nothing since then. My search only gave me the 3 flashing bars (which has happened to me twice before). Comments?

Had SmartyPants on the ramps the other day to look at the ABS connectors, I found them tight and clean. It's been about 3 weeks with the lights coming on after the first brake of the drive. However I did do the Sunday drive to look at the Fall colours and the region I drove through is dirt poor. The roads were a mix of potholes, gravel, patched asphalt and the lot. Sure enough the rough roads resulted in the trouble lights disappearing. Smart car, never change.