smart142

A big milestone has passed - 20 YEARS of smart ownership!!! My 2006 smart continues to be my daily driver and went through the year with only routine maintenance! She has been very reliable! I still have my shop and continue to help csc owners when requested. It should be noted that I have stored a lot of parts for the cdi's so contact me if you're looking for some hard to find items. Enjoy the upcoming holidays with family and friends!!

Smart 2025: All the upcoming models

That's what I experienced when the coolant level was low, or when air got in the system.

It's a long shot but..... I would check the coolant level.

After 25 years, the Smart ForTwo will no longer be produced - Telegrafi - Telegrafi

I had an interesting Saturday. I was the support person for''Wild''who wanted to replace the clutch on his 451 that has clocked 380,000kms. I provided the heated shop, the hoist, and a second set of hands when needed. It was not necessary to drop the engine. The oem guidelines were followed and the entire job took 7 hours. Not a job for the faint of heart but it is doable. Most of my day was working on a 2001 gas powered 450 with only 45,000kms. It's a pure so I added a clock/ tach and got the radio working. It was in storage for 20 years so is in very good condition.

Try PMC tire......... https://pmctire.com/tires?fmk=165098&meta.pmc_tire.size=165%2F65R15&modelVariants.size=185%2F60R15

Check those reluctor rings real close, even a small crack will cause those lights to come on.

I believe that high intake temperatures caused am engine failure in one of the smart cars I owned at 190,000 kms. My intercooler scoop was gone and the i/c fan didn't work - I chose to ignore that. Turned out the valve lifters had failed causing a loss of compression. An expensive lesson.

I would try that myself, but keep the trips short.

Is your intercooler fan working? Do you have an intercooler scoop?

Evilution has a list of the bulbs.

Ya, bleeding an old Mercedes or Toyota diesel was tricky too!

WOW!!! That's going to be a hefty bill.

The hard line from the cdi rail to the injector does not use washers. Maybe the flaired end has a nick or bur? I have extras if you want to try a different one.

The smart self bleeds. I've changed many a fuel filter. When you turn the key to the first position you can hear the ''gurgling'' from underneath. Do that 2 or 3 times and you'll be good to go.

After the click wait for at least 5 seconds to reset the computer. More often than not a malfunctioning EGR is the cause of the problem.

I've found the fuel gauge to be very accurate. The only time it acted up was in BC. The Victoria MB dealer advised a fuel additive that did help. When driving to Jasper from BC many years ago on a Sunday night i ran it down to 0.0 and was still able to go another30kms. Rumor has it that at 0.0 you still have 2 litres remaining. Maybe the MB engineers were wise and were trying to protect the dummies who like to drive on fumes???

Remove the front grill, the passenger side turn signal, then with a light look up to the firewall high and to the right. there is a U shaped black rubber hose that can be pulled off. It often has debris in it that prevents water flow. Cut the end off. Mercedes pinched the end to prevent spider ingress. Don't run your AC till you do this because the water backing up into the car can damage the Canadian E box causing major issues.

Hats off to all those who made this possible!!! Cheers!! Only too happy to donate money to keep the site running!!!

Thanks Steve for helping out with this matter. Best wishes to you and your wife!! My memory is foggy but I remember that it was many years ago that Max was the webmaster and then vanished. Leadwing at the time was president and tried to contact him for years and years. I had bought parts off him so had his email and phone #. He never responded when we used that contact info. I believe he initiated the advertising on the site that was supposed to generate a little revenue??? Is someone receiving that money???

I use a penetrating oil that an old mechanic recommended - 50% acetone 50% ATF. I then place a 13mm long socket over the fuel inlet of the injector and then work it side to side. When it moves a little add more penetrating oil. Keep working it side to side. This method has never failed me.