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Everything posted by smart142
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Check the reluctor rings on the rear axle.
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Welcome to the club
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That thread was from 2008 - 14 years ago!
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Welcome to the club!
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Welcome to the club!
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0702, shutting down
smart142 replied to mender's topic in Operation and Maintenance: 450 Model, 2005-2006, diesel
My guess - crankshaft position sensor. Probable thermal breakdown when the engine warms up triggering the code and shutdown. When it cools off it restarts. -
Welcome to the club!!
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Straight pipe smart car
smart142 replied to McCaleb's topic in Operation and Maintenance: 450 Model, 2005-2006, diesel
Willys is in Pefferlaw a couple of hours from you. -
Rear wheel bearing
smart142 replied to simon28's topic in Operation and Maintenance: 450 Model, 2005-2006, diesel
Yes, the 451 rear bearing will NOT fit the 450. They look the same but LLN is right , the spline is different. -
Rear wheel bearing
smart142 replied to simon28's topic in Operation and Maintenance: 450 Model, 2005-2006, diesel
I couldn't source one a few weeks ago and resorted to the dealer. They charged me $320 for one!! -
Good for you! I'm betting its a seized alternator.
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no start Rescued an old Smart 450 CDI. Like some help
smart142 replied to CRasman's topic in Introduce Yourself
That is a 450 diesel. I've changed the starter a number of times on that type. Once the engine is lowered, like you have done, I remove the water inlet jacket to the water pump.It's held on by 2 T10 bolts. No need to remove the AC compressor. The starter is held in by 2 long bolts, T12 if I remember correctly, that are under the intercooler. One of them is visible. The other one is under the plastic intercooler shroud. I cheat and cut and snap off enough of the plastic to access the bolt. It's tight in there but can be done. Next is to disconnect the battery and then take off the 2 wires to the starter. The starter needs to be pushed forward and up to remove. There is very little room but this method has worked for me at least 5 times. I don't like the job because it usually eats up 5-6 hours and can get frustrating as well as skinning a few knuckles. Good luck! -
I had an electrical drain that I finally got around to looking at. Turns out the generator was bad. I took that to my rebuilder and they were having some difficulty dismantling and getting all the parts needed. I checked out a supplier in the states and they had a rebuild kit for $100. Then I saw that they had an alternator that was a direct fit for usd $225. I decided to order it and I received it in 5 days. In the meantime my rebuilder was able to get the old generator repaired and working for $120. I decided to go with the alternator and keep the generator in reserve. The alternator was an easy install and am happy to say that it works perfectly. On St. Paddys day I took her out for a 20 mile run and had a blast! No issues Looks like she's ready for the upcoming season!! ps. much easier to change the alternator on a ''T'' - 3 bolts and i wire to connect. Compare that to a cdi (2-3 hrs)
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People do the headlight relay mod because full headlights are the drl's and burn out the pins on the sam, but there is a way todisable them(with key in hand press the unlock button while pulling the high beam stalk) and then I do the euro turn signal mod and add led's to the fog light position using a seperate circuit to the switched power on the side of the sam.(evilution.com has the fuse box info).The leds are your new drls This prolongs the life of the headlights and reduces the strain on the sam.
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No need to do that. What I do is take the water seperator out of its holder, there is a plastic plug on top that I open, turn it upside down and drain the fuel and any water in it. Reassemble and the system will self bleed. Like you I change out the fuel filter.
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Welcome to the club! I hate to burst your bubble but...... I doubt if its a true Brabus. It looks like a lot of Brabus parts were put on your smart, like the exhaust shield and the front spoiler. Is there any other Brabus badging on the car?
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Welcome to the club!