smart142

https://www.edsmartparts.nl/en/25-smart-roadster-452?page=5

You need to have the codes read by a star computer. I'm betting it will be the crank sensor.(not a fun job to change)

Good for you! The last 2 times I did that repair at least one of the 7 bolts had the head snap off!

Update - got the T engine back at the end of July!! The machine shop had it for 2 months - a busy place! The first Wed in Aug we mated up the tranny to the engine and installed the oil pan. The next Wed we got the engine installed. All this took a little longer than expected! Then I installed the starter, generator, exhaust, carb, tranny bands, and rad. When we removed the engine 2 of the wires to the timer were damaged so I replaced those. Lo and behold she started right up last Saturday. Had a few leaks to correct and then I waited for Wed so that my buddy and I could test her out. We went over everything, started her up, and then took her out to the parking lot. All was good so we took her for a test drive in a big vacant lot. So then I got her insured and plated. First thing Liz and I did was drive her down to show the engine rebuilder the fruits of his labour. And yesterday I started the day by taking Leadwing for a drive and then it was home to show her to family and friends. She certainly attracts a lot of attention!!! My impressions: You really have to be an attentive driver behind the wheel of a T. You have to remain focused at all times. It's all different on the T - right hand controls the throttle, left hand controls the spark advance, right foot applies the brake or reverse, and left foot controls the clutch. There's also the big lever on the left that can do braking and controls neutral and high gear. Confusing eh?? On the road when your in low gear you are going slow and in control, however when you put it in high gear things get a little scary. Even with the improved Rocky Mountain brakes you have to look far ahead to anticipate any situation that requires braking. It is imperative that you become the ultimate defensive driver! The other thing that is a concern on the road is the relative slow speed of the T. For this I came up with a solution. I bought an amber flashing light. Its battery operated and has a magnetic base so it fastens easily on the back. I feel a lot better with that. Having said all that it is an absolute thrill driving the T. It's so impressive that something 100 years old is so well made and functional. To think my grandfather went from a horse and buggy to the model T. It must have been an extraordinary time!! So glad that that I was able to keep a piece of history alive!

That might have been part of the Halifax/Transport Canada wiring mod?

Welcome to the club

Welcome to the club I leased an ED for 3 years and loved the car!!! Nigel gave you some great advice.

When I saw the mod the first thing I thought was it would make it much much easier to change the air filter. I don't think Willys is very familiar with the 451

Welcome to the club!

'' turdbox '' - that's a little harsh! Show a little respect for a 15 year old unique vehicle!

It sounds like the $1400 is to replace the starter. I'm thinking the dealer would charge less than that and provide a 2 year warranty. It would be worth a call to them to get an estimate.

Cheaper to buy from the dealer.

Mercedes says its an oil cooler. To me it looks like the leak is coming from above. That's the oil return line from the turbo.

This mechanic is not a fan of small cars but is good at his trade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYh10JN_1BU

Thanks Bill! I've maintained #61 since new and am VERY fortunate to be the hew owner!!!! She was cleaned and hand polished yesterday!

On Tuesday I heard back from the machine shop. Cam, crank, and block all good. They bored out the cylinders 0.040 (limit is 0.080) They gave me a list of all the parts I needed and i got the order in. Snyders Antique Auto Parts in Ohio had all the parts and shipped with Fed Ex ground. I received the package today (Friday) - VERY impressed!!! Total was $810 and that included two cam bearings that were worth $300. Pretty reasonable IMHO Now I have to get those parts to the machine shop and let them do their magic!!!

Motorcycle chain lube spray gives good results.Then heat from a hair dryer helps it to penetrate.

82 HP compared to our 42 HP cdi's is huge! In 2018 I drove the 82 HP version for 2 weeks around Europe. It had more than enough power especially there with the narrow streets and short distances! And it didn't leak! I was also given the opportunity to drive a tuned roadster in Holland and I found it to be too fast for the the road conditions!!!

On the 17th of February I had the T appraised - $20,000. A bit generous as similar T's seem to be going for around 12 - 15,000. Of course that's when things turned for the worst. Right after the appraisal I tried and tried to get her started and nothing worked. I checked the compression, with the help of my friend, and found the problem. Compression on # 1 and 4 was 50psi which is normal #2 was 25 and #3 was ZERO! That would explain why the difficulty to start and idle. So I ordered a new head gasket ($35) and removed the 15 head bolts - all came out with no damage. The cylinder head was in good shape (has huge combustion chambers). The pistons and cylinders looked to be in good shape. The problem looked to be the exhaust valves for the #2 and 3 cylinders. The seats and the valves were pitted and carboned up. Decided to try to clean them up, and lap the valves to try to get some compression. Did all that and had the head planed ($100). Put her back together and guess what - no improvement - in fact the #2 now had no compression. Oh well, it was worth a try because the next logical step would be to take the engine to a machine shop for a rebuild. My friend worked for 35 years at the Ford St. Thomas assembly plant and for the last 15 years there he was a repairman who swapped out engines and transmissions. So it was relatively easy for the two of us to get the engine and transmission out - about 4 hours total. The machine shop that I use is very busy and didn't even have the room to store the engine. They also said it would be easier for them to just have the engine. So last Wednesday we removed the tranny cover and pedals. The lower pan is shared by the engine and tranny - a lot of bolts to remove that, and then just 4 holding the flywheel and the tranny was off. That only took 2 hours. With the tranny off the machine shop was able to take the engine. I'm hoping they will be able to examine it this week so I can get the parts ordered. Unfortunately for me the machine shop is at least a month behind. As I stated earlier the combustion chamber is huge and could easily accommodate the new domed high compression pistons that give more power. Prices again I think are reasonable - the pistons, rings, and valves would come to about us$500 I'm also considering an improved clutch. A bit of a set back but once she's all back together I should be able to get years and years of service from her.

Maybe the fuel pump failing?

They also take larger tires than the stock rims.

So on the 15th of Dec my friend and I tried to start ''Lizzie''. She turned over but wouldn't fire. When the ignition was turned on you should normally hear a ''buzzing'' sound this was absent. Decided to call in a ''T'' expert - Diesel Dave. He was kind enough to drive down to help over the holidays. We determined that there was power going to the front circuit board but none to the coils. ''Hotwired'' and now we heard the coils buzzing! That meant the ignition switch was defective. We tried starting and heard a few sputters, remember the carb had been rebuilt so it needed to be adjusted correctly. We tried for a few minutes to get her going and then another problem - the bendix drive let go. Probably our fault for using the starter too long. Dave said that was a relatively easy repair. Turns out the ignition switch was $95 with 2 new keys and a new bendix was $75. Ordered the parts and they arrived 5 days later. IMHO very reasonable. The ignition switch was easy to replace. Only 9 wires to transfer. The bendix drive was also easy to replace. It had 4 screws holding the cover. Awkward but doable, When the cover was removed you could see that the spring had broken. That would have been only $8 to replace. With those repairs done we were now ready to try starting her again - and voila after a few minutes she fired up and ran!!!!! That put a smile on my face!!! She did run a little rough so I decided to replace the spark plugs ($14 per) While I was waiting for those, ''Lizzie'' was put up on the hoist and I cleaned up the underside. Then I applied a paint over rust primer and 2 top coats. The same was done for the steel rims. Last Wed my friend and I worked on fitting the Rocky Mountain brakes. We finished that but the final step was to weld a rod onto the brake lever. That was removed and my friends son volunteered to do the welding as he is a machinist. So yesterday we finished the install. We did the best we could adjusting the brakes but we will need to do a road test for the final adjust. That won't happen till the snow is gone and the roads are clear. Now I'm really looking forward to the warmer weather

try this..... Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia

(1) Thinking of Buying a Smart ForTwo 451 (2008-2015)? - YouTube