smart142

I would replace the thermostat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5ZFOxN256I

The most practical solution - Scrape off the rust and then use POR - paint over rust. Finish with an oil spray.

Recently my horn wasn't working. Experience says that you should pull the downshift paddle the same time as the horn and it often corrects. No such luck for me. Kept trying that for a couple of weeks and got more frustrated. I know that the horn and paddle shifters share the same wire. I was contemplating taking the steering wheel off and then lo and behold it started working again. Everything is back to normal now and has been for the past 2 weeks. It's a puzzler!!!

I've only used the star once to bleed the brakes, I wouldn't want to do it again, Its a minimum 2 man job. One to man the computer, the other to keep the fluid reservoir full and to open and close the bleeders. The ABS pump puts through a lot of fluid. A third person would be helpful, I've had good results using a power bleeder and thats a 1 man job.

No radio code needed.

Welcome to the club! I was born in Brandon but left many, many years ago!

I have one - $85 + shipping

Well its been over 2 years and Liz and I still love our Lexus!! I didn't have a complete mechanical history of the car so one of the first things I did was change the timing belt, water pump and serpentine belt. After a year with no issues I upgraded the brakes and put on new tires. And a month ago I had to do the first repair. I noticed a wet spot under the front right of the car. It was power steering fluid. I was thinking it was the pump or the rack and pinion. Turned out it was the hose. The cost of repair parts was only $60 The past week in SW Ontario was very hot and the AC in my smart was not working so I have been using the Lexus. What a pleasure!!! The ride, comfort, power and responsiveness are incredible!!! The only drawback is that the V8 consumes about 3 times more fuel than the smart! The Lexus replaced my 1982 Mercedes 300SD. I could see that the Toyota engineers got many ideas from the Mercedes and then improved on them. I sold the Mercedes for $2000 so I figure the Lexus cost me $1200 - in my view a bargain!!! Looks like we will be keeping the Lexus and the 1985 Toyota Landcruiser in our stable

Also remove the rear belly pan. Then on the drivers side there is a black holder that supports the brake and the anti lock lines. A 10mm plastic nut holds it on. Loosen and then the brake lines are given more slack in the lowering process. I also remove the air inlet cover on the drivers side. When raising the engine make sure the E brake insert goes into the plastic tube.

I agree.

Was the cabrio you were driving a pulse with paddle shifters?

Are you absolutely sure its not the reluctor rings?? Even a small crack in the ring can trigger the code. Check the codes with a ''star''

Could have been a temporary electrical glitch, Evilution says: The smart gearbox relies on a lot of electronics to keep it working properly, it only takes one part to misbehave to call up an error code. Causes can be one or more of the following: Fuse Blown Secondary Fuse/Relay Box Corrosion (600cc) Faulty SE Drive Stuck Gears Weak Battery Poor Earth Lead Faulty Brake Lights Incorrect Brake Light Bulb LED Brake Light Bulbs Faulty Gearbox RPM Sensor Faulty Rear Light Loom (Roadster) Faulty Gear Motor Faulty Gear Position Sensor Faulty Clutch Actuator Chaffed Wires Damage Wires Stuck Clutch Seized Gearbox Faulty Relay Split Reluctor Rings Worn Clutch Fork Solder Joint Failure Faulty gearbox RPM sensor Gearbox Reteach Canadian E-Box Failure ECU Component Failure

Years ago when I was driving a smart in BC the fuel gauge acted up. When I got to Saskatchewan it corrected itself. I assumed it was fuel related. If I remember correctly TPM in Victoria recommended a fuel additive. Problem with BC diesel??

There are 8 x 8mm screws that hold up the rear belly pan. It's hinged and then you swing it down. Helps if its on a hoist or ramps.

If you don't have a hoist its awkward. Centre of car and tight to work on. You also have to take apart the rear brake shoes with all the assorted springs that I don't like. If you have the time its all doable.

Just bought one at the dealer - $40. Time to go the Tolsen plate route like you. Let us know what you find.

try this... https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?menu=interior&mod=356

The smart is what it is. You have to adapt to it not the other way around. And yes it can be frustrating but when you do a successful repair it can give you great pleasure!

Does it turn over? If it does slowly check to see if the alternator is seized.

I have a rather heavy foot and usually lose my first fuel blob between 100 - 140 kms. Well today it was at 190 kms - far better than normal. Of course here in SW Ontario its 33c. The diesels love the heat!!!

Cherry turbos has been rebuilding the smart turbos for over 10 years now. Maybe more expensive than the chinese but he does quality work.

IMHO not worth the trouble. Why not change the oil every 5000 kms?

I would remove the injectors for a start. The copper sealing rings are not that expensive and you will have to replace that missing bolt.