Speedie

Maybe 'cause you could also direct people to sites other than YouTube by embedding links..... It would be nice to allow all attachments and links but there are folks out there that have other malicious intents.Cheers,Cameronps. we are also on a version of the software that barely pre-dates YouTube - we are working on that.

I have the install and user guide for the MDC cruise control - PM if you figure that would help.The reason they didn't introduce the factory cruise here was something to do with the do not exceed this speed setting or something (i.e. speed goverened to a user set point).Cheers,Cameron

You can thank tougher enviromental laws for some of the rust - they don't use as much plating (cadium, phosphate, zinc etc.) on components now as it does nasties to the environment - same with paint - some of it is water based coatings which don't (IMHO) stand up as good as old fashioned enamels and such.There are some pretty good spray on waxy oil products around - they use this on the car from the factory - a squirt here and there helps - plus rust is a lot to do with the environment - southern Ontario and the East Coast seem to really get clobbered.Cheers,Cameron

That will be in the not too distance future - right now we have to make sure the site is okay and no left overs from our less than pleasant visitor - I have a handle on how they did it so I have been able to check up on things - so far so good.In fairness - the address used was from Kazahstan but the hacker probably was just using it as a proxy - I would guess either Europe or another country - 286 computers that they use in Kazahstan are just not up to a lot of hacking activity.The new software is not expensive - but will save us a world of grief.Cheers,Cameron

Mine showed up today - haven't had any problems since the driver side was replaced but then TPM has been cleaning and lubing them - me as well.Cheers,Cameron

Joint effort - we got things going again - Awesys lived up to his tag! We think we have a handle on it all and are taking steps to get better security happening.Cheer,Cameron

Well since CsC has gone back to a semi-anarchy based self-administered - seperate but equal and all that stuff mode - and since I am not dealing with a world of grief in my personal life now - I will see what I can do for setting up something.Cheers,Cameron

Okay - we think we have things back to normal - joint effort - big shout out to Awesys for all the help - we got hacked - but we have put things back in order and are watching for repeat attempts - won't get into what we are doing in the background.We hope to have an updated version of the IPB in place before too long - we have to do a bit of due dilegence to make sure we don't get into any gottcha's.If you spot any issues (real ones - not just 'cuz your senses are enhanced at the moment) let us know. I am also doing some long overdue housekeeping with the site - should make it perform better.Cheers,Cameron

You will have to report all repairs to Customs and pay tax (GST and PST) - as well if the repairs are substantial (i.e. convert a salvage vehicle to one that is road worthy) you may find the situation a bit different as this is subject to tariffs and duties. Check with the border crossing where you would be bringing the car back through - they are usually pretty helpful.Cheers,Cameron

I have a source of someone (no not me) parting out a 2005 450 pure coupe - car has a fried motor (seems to be happening a bit more now) - if you are interested shoot me a PM and I will arrange things (no I am not taking a cut - just helping people deal with circumstances)Over all the car looks well cared for so if you need some parts let me know - the current owner may want to retain the Tridion and the panels.Cheers,CameronOkay - they now have 2 cars they are parting out - as above and a cabrio - cabrio has no panels, no driveline, and no top - rest of the car is in good shape - it is a passion model. Interior is in nice shape too.Contact Sean at 1.250.385.1408 - Serious inquires only and realistic price expectations only!

Did rear wheel bearings - one has been noisy for about 20k - the car is around 127k- the instructions on Evil's site are good for the gist but a few pointers (sorrry no photos - in a hurry) - as always this was a driveway job - no hoist - just a floor jack, wheel chocks, and simple hand toolsGet the correct 21mm 12point socket - Sears sells them (not here thought) as does KMS toolsThe axle bolt is in there really tight - I found that putting the car in gear (key on) and the park brake really tight helped (do the bolt before you remove the drums) Even then you have to use some light taps on the handle of the breaker barOnce you back the axle bolt out - give it a light tap on the end - this will loosen the splined shaft in the wheel bearingI took just the one bolt out on the suspension cross beam to the dion tube - it gives you room to work but is not really needed to get the drive shaft loose enough - you really don't have to get the drive shaft out - just out of the bearing enough that you can get to the four bolts holding it inThe 4 bearing retainer bolts are fairly tight as well but come out with just a breaker bar - you have to lift the drive shaft around to get the socket to the bolt - a selection of extensions for the socket is very helpful - the one front one at the top is easier from the side of the car - the other ones Now the fun bit - on the one side the bearing centering ring was rusted into the backing plate - really tight - no amount of hammering would have worked - especially with how floppy everything gets once the 4 bolts are out. There is a simple trick I came up with - first put the 4 retaining bolts back in loosely - get a bolt that is smaller than the lug bolt hole diameter and about 3" long - then stick it through the lug hole - once it is through thread a nut onto it - tighten it all up until the end of the bolt is against the backing plate - make sure the bolt is straight in so you don't damage the threads on the lug hole - tighten the bolt using a wrench on the nut and the bolt - this will nicely push the backing plate off - back the bolt off and turn the bearing so the bolt is now on the other side (there is room) repeat and then take the 4 bolts out. This was super easy, didn't involve cussing, large hammers or damaged car parts. Stick one of the 4 bolts through from the front to make sure the brake line is not carrying the weightClean every thing off with brake cleaner When reassembling (I painted the bearings as the originals rusted a bit) put grease in the splines of the bearing and a light coat of never seize on the outside of the centering boss on the bearing (so next time it is easier) Pay attention to the torque settings - some are fairly high so yes you need some ommph - and use a torque wrench - no one is that accurate at guessingWhen putting the splined shaft back in it should move really easy - you should be able to practically finger tighten the bolt to pull it back in - if not check the alignment and also make sure that the socket you used on the 4 bolts didn't come off the extension (don't ask - it had me puzzled for a bit). Check the hub in neutral - it should turn over easilyThe torque spec on the wheel bolt is torque to 30nm (basically tight) then an additional 90 degrees rotation - this can be a challenge as the axle wants to turn so do the old car on and in drive routine to generate a bit more resistanceThe first side took me a couple of hours (1/2 hour for head scratching on the stuck hub) the second side a lot less. Next up repairs to NuBlu's engine Cheers,Cameron

Please post the link you are coming from (i.e. the orginal post that had the link) so I can recreate the issue - saves about an hour's work of trying to find the missing link.CHeers,Cameron

Try PM'ing Darren directly - not sure he is doing them any more. I will try to fix the link on the next go around for those.Cheers,Cameron

We had the issue on both doors - now reported - please note you need the VIN for the car on the site as well as the date when it happened - most folks don't have it memorized. You only get 500 characters to describe the issue - so you have to keep it terse.Our new latches have been fine but the dealer lubed 'em when they installed the replacements and they lube them when they service the car (can be done through the door opening). Doesn't change the matter that they should have been either lubed from the factory or a service campaign undertaken to lube them before they failed. Driving any distance with the door waving in the breeze is not my idea of fun - we are lucky we only live a few blocks from the dealer - hate to have to drive on the highway like that.Cheers,Cameron

Bad battery can do all sorts of funky things in most new cars - pretty much everything is accuated electrically so if the voltage is low you can slip into the twilight zone for strangeness. Unfortunately a starter will still work even if you only have 11 volts or so going to it. If you know someone in the auto trade they can probably get the proper smart battery for around $100 - comparable to the price for one you might have to tweak to get to fit. I did mine this fall (pre-emptive - the dealership here load tests them as part of the service - it was not holding it's own). If it is the original battery and you are in Ontario then it has done quite admirably and deserves to be retired to be a shop battery.The official stance from MB is no additives but certain dealerships are noted for recommending them for smarts and mercedes to keep things working. Diesel contains a lot of stuff that likes to stick to things (waxes, traces of bitumin, sulphur) so a shot of additive helps clear that out of the injectors and fuel system (can help keep water out too). You don't have to go nuts with it - just the occasional usage.Cheers,Cameron