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MikeT

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Everything posted by MikeT

  1. What I meant is that the solenoid or whatever it is that activates the third HP pump element may be malfunctioning and if so, it's no doubt an electrical component. It could also be a mechanical issue inside the pump. I don't know how to diagnose it actually. Maybe someone else can help with that. Perhaps fiddle around with the electrical connection to the HP pump, checking for corrosion as a starting point.
  2. The mechanical camshaft-driven high pressure pump has three elements as far as I can recall so I guess the third(?) one is faulty and not operating, so the engine can't get enough fuel for full load. Could be electrical though.
  3. My mother is 99 (turning 100 in May) and has had three hip replacements over the years. You'll be just fine. Best wishes.
  4. It was twenty years ago today.... Well plus two days ...we brought a new smart fortwo home for the first time. This car was written off in November 2012. But we had a second one, the BRABUS Canada 1, so still are smart owners after 20 years.
  5. Petrol? No idea, but that water doesn't sound good. What is the "coil light"?
  6. 388K is a good run. 8 cylinder, what is the fuel consumption like?
  7. Yes it has. I did a caliper service yesterday and the brake is no longer binding. The pad ears were being pinched by corrosion under the stainless steel tracks. Easy repair. It's from the DaimlerChrysler era too! The engine is bulletproof. No oil consumption. The worst part is the brakes.
  8. At just under 355,000 km on the B200 odometer, we ordered the 2025 GLC 350e and when we got home in the B200, the car smelled funny. The right rear brake was binding and the wheel was HOT! A couple of buckets of cold water cooled it down. I have to get that puppy freed up because we still need to use this car for the rest of the winter. The smart doesn't see salt. If I can avoid it. So far it's worked.
  9. Paid the deposit yesterday, indications now are seat cooling is available with leather, so we will begetting that!
  10. Order for the GLC 350e is underway. deposit to be paid on Boxing Day. All options shown in first post other than cooled seats, which is only available in the vinyl (Artico) upholstery. We want leather seats a LOT more than seat cooling. The Nanaimo dealer has only a few allocations because they're kind of small, and the next build slot just opened up for February/March production date. It should arrive here by April or May, which is perfect. So far, the B200 is holding up admirably. I hope to sell it for a few grand once the new car arrives.
  11. Newbs like you are the best! Carry that torch!
  12. Congrats! Coming up to 20 for me too, though my first one was written off back in 2012.
  13. Now it's looking 90-10 that we will keep Snowball!
  14. It's not going to be an anything model, anywhere. The stuff online is all AI.
  15. Yeah, it's all a bit too Austin Powers. The AI Toyota iQ images and "announcements" are hilarious.
  16. I had something like this with my first smart, a 2005. The car would lose power but still rev to 4400 RPM. The cause was a faulty clutch actuator, which was slurring clutch engagement and to save the clutch disc from excessive wear, the car would cut power and torque do this other version of limp mode. Actuator changed under warranty back in 2006, problem never recurred in the next 230K km.
  17. Sounds like limp mode. Run a diagnostic on the OBDII.
  18. Yeah ....I'm thinking a local wrecker is the best bet.
  19. Wrecker? I have a spare with 30K km on it, but it's not for sale - I have a BRABUS diesel dual exit unit on the car now but if it ever fails, I'll need the old one....
  20. Now we're thinking of adding a sunroof, despite my first inclinations. The roof is glass and there are 67% fewer seals than the louvered one on the B-Class we bought in 2007. It would brighten up the interior and if it leaks in the car's old age, clear wrap will do what it did to our B-Class....keep a leaky roof dry. I was checking out some sites in Europe that have done detailed fuel consumption tests on this 2+ tonne 4WD vehicle. It seems from this test that between the high 6.x and high 7.x L/100 km is possible even with a depleted battery on a road trip. Around here the main issue will be burning enough fuel in the 49 litre tank so it doesn't go stale. About 75% of our local driving will be in EV mode alone, I think. Spritmonitor has a few dozen of the newest model X254 - called GLC 300e in Europe - in their records and the average among all of them is ~4.6 L/100 km of fuel, which on the face of it is rather smart cdi-like, but of course doesn't account for the electricity costs. I checked the rate of electricity usage in EV mode and considering the cost of power here in BC, charging at home, the cost per km is about 1/4 the cost of fuel at say 7.5 L/100 km. Therefore, fuel cost-wise, the car should be cheaper to run than our smart is when driving locally. When we drive it cross-country, we should be able to get more or less the same fuel economy as the current B200 5 speed, which we use for longer trips now. And we do plan to do that, clean out to Newfoundland, sometime in the next 3 years.
  21. The problem is not a relay in the SAM, but the tiny pins that take 55W+ of power to the low beams and fuel lift pump. The relay in the SAM is fine, but the pins are too small to move that much amperage and so the plug overheats, the plastic melts a bit and the contacts become intermittent. Mounting an external relay so only a signal voltage passes through the SAM is the solution. A short term solution to an endless crank is to give a swift boot to the SAM then try again (worked for me a few times), but the proper solution is the relay mod. I am not a fan of using an alternative unused power source from the SAM to run the relay high amperage circuits so I always advise running a new wire inside electrical conduit - with an inline fuse in this line - to the driver's footwell, and using that to power the low beam relays and the fuel pump relay. Putting the relays in is quite simple other than the tight quarters - the correct output wires from N-111 are cut for the three units in question, and one end goes to the trigger circuit of the (4 pin) relay, and the other end is connected to the output from the new relay. I did not save the photos that showed all of this in the How To part of the former website, which is unfortunate, because I did this modification years ago and it's hard to describe it precisely without them, especially which pins are for which function. I just went into the garage and found my old SAM from Snowball, which indicates the pin that provides power to the fuel lift pump (because it's a bit melted at the base, sort of a blob around the base), the tenth pin to the bottom of the photo: The direction of current flow is such that it goes out of the SAM on connector N-111 and to the headlight(s) and fuel lift pump. The purpose of the relay is to greatly reduce the amperage going through the SAM, thereby keeping the pins cool and stopping the melting issue. Photo of the original N-111 pigtail that I replaced on the new SAM when the low beam headlight pins melted. They're the two in the centre: Gratuitous shot of the SAM in situ: Relay mounting strap in the car for the two headlights:
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