gordo.bernard

Stone chips are repaired by insurance companies for free in Ontario. There's hardly even any paperwork involved at the major glass repair places. They do this to avoid the major expense of replacing the whole glass. I've had a couple repaired in the last few years and have been pleased with the results. You still know it is there but it just looks like a bug spot that's all. There are 2 reasons to get it done ASAP. It can spread, or if the windshield gets real hot from the defroster or sun it could crack. The second reason is that dirt, washer fluid, Rainex etc. can contaminate the void and affect the bond and the clarity of the repair.

True but.....to do that you will need a current E-Test....also make sure your address is current on the registration.

1...overinflated by 20 PSI may not help, but being underinflated by 20 PSI WILL hurt.2...nitrogen may lose pressure more slowly and therefore requires less checking-most people don't check, so this could save fuel for most people.3...they admit that this is NOT a myth, just that you won't gain much. (don't forget with a small tank like a smart or a motorcycle, a significant portion of the fuel you are buying is not underground)4...open windows depends on the "flow through" ability. Just opening the front windows on my minivan is way different than opening the rears as well.5...I don't know about most fuel injection systems but those that shut off the fuel do exactly that and then when the RPMs drop so far that they are getting close to idle speed, the fuel delivery system activates again. Some manufacturers actually bragged about this as a fuel saving feature. (they must be wrong)...BTW my smart will coast much further with no throttle if I am in manual 6 instead of auto. 6...so a dirty air filter means that I won't get the same performance and that means that I will step on the accelerator even more to get the same level of performance?...really, if only the multi national, multi million dollar filter manufacturers with millions in research knew that adding more layers of filtration would increase fuel mileage....

This thread covers a few options. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopi...&hl=battery .

Just some extra ideas, not necessarily recommendations. There are 1/2 inch thread deep stainless nuts welded in place if I need them for stabilization. (The photos don't show the bike secured.) http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopi...t=0#entry241161 .

As an alternative....if you already have a pig tail on your car battery. Make a very short set of light gauge "jumper cables" that mate up to the pig tail and have the proper polarity. Would it then work to get another good used car battery real cheap (any size) and keep it charged in your home all weekend and then all week leave it on the passenger floor hooked up to the new "jumper cable" pigtail?.

Look at the angle of the extra tire. It is probably a self steer axle like on SPIF trailers.

BASF is behind this and not some wheel manufacturer, so it will be backed by intensive research for sure. Will brake cleaning and wheel cleaning chemicals and tire in a can inflators all be banned from getting near these? Will these degrade from sun exposure like you see unpainted black nylon door handles on older cars? Will all of the interlaced structural ribs that are found on the internal face and the external face as well as the inside section of the hoop collect dirt snow or ice and cause the wheel to become unbalanced? Will it handle the expansion pressures of melted snow freezing into ice? Are the quoted weight savings based on current metal rims or some innovative metal alternative that was perhaps not on the design table? Was the wheel cover part of the quoted weight savings or is it an integral part of the wheel that can't be customized? Most of all, will we be taking a risk when the fancy aftermarket lookalikes start rolling out of China?.

The windshield did not even come out. It looks like it was cut in half by the extrication team.

Agreed.So you are telling us that the dealership has a problem with rodents. Who determined it was rodents and who determined where they live? (maybe the damage happened at the dealership)

this might help

I just checked...14.2V at 820 RPM (idle).

If I remember, I think my scangauge already shows around 14V at those engine speeds.

I really wonder what those fat tires will do to the "mileage".

http://blog.mercedes-benz-passion.com/2012...t-brabus-ebike/

Down and dirty with the option of only using it when necessary. http://www.autobarn.net/heated-steering-wheel-cover.html

Detailed DescriptionMobil 1 0W-30 meets key builder specifications:GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec)Ford WSS-M2C929-AILSAC GF-4API SM/CFACEA A1/B1Should you not be concerned that it doesn't meet any MB standard, "that is if you wan't your engine to last."

I'm really grasping at straws here since I don't have steel wheels or wheel covers. There are 3 holes near where the wheel mounting bolts are. These could be measured and then threaded with a tap whether metric or imperial (or just pop in some rivnuts). Then at the corresponding locations on the cover another hole could be added and then the proper length stainless pan head Phillips screws used to secure them. An alternative would be to use 3 stainless eye screws in the tapped holes and then install the wheel covers and then try to fish zipties through some of the wheel cover's holes and the eyescrews. The results would look similar to my air intake and since the screws are silver like the wheel covers, they would blend in....Gord.

We can get anti seize paste based with aluminum, copper, nickel or ceramic. The local dealer says that they prefer to use the nickel. I thought that the ceramic would not conduct electricity as well as the metal based ones and that the nickel is good to 1,300 degrees C.Permatex® Anti-Seize LubricantA highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3*Permatex® Copper Anti-Seize LubricantA premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant that may be used to prevent seizing, corrosion and galling where high temperature conditions exist. Contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier and is fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C). Provides good electrical conductivity. Meets Mil Spec #907E. Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connectionsPermatex® Nickel Anti-Seize LubricantProtects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). Copper-free, use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys.Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assembliesPermatex® Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts LubricantThis 100% synthetic lubricant contains real ceramic solids for extreme performance under the most critical braking conditions. A purple, environmentally friendly, non-melting formula, this premium lubricant is our longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise such as squealing and chattering; also effective in preventing long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling. Excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65°F to 3000°F (-54°C to 1648°C). This product assures that critical brake parts remain lubricated throughout brake pad life. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out. It is compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber. Suggested Applications: Disc brake caliper hardware, bushings, slides, pistons, rubber sleeves and seals

Thanks for clearing that up. BTW what material is the BERU grease using?...Copper, aluminum, ceramic etc?

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qi...25024433AA8HTvg

Actually I did chuckle a little bit. I thought that the wave oil was purchased at the same place that we buy "elbow grease".Here is a photo of my mechanic getting himself prepared to change a set of glow plugs.

I am insured with TD as well and I chose to have a zero dollar deductible on comprehensive. It cost $85/year (2012 price) versus your $66/year. Less than $20 difference yet if some one does any of the stupid things that you read about people doing to smarts, it is totally covered. If you ever have the windshield cracked, and you pay the deductible of $500, you could have upgraded the comprehensive for 25 years with the difference in money from just that one event. Would the average person get a cracked windshield in 25 years, I don't know... Just my thoughts...Gord

Add me to the list of people that have benefited from these posts. I removed the old ones, made the tool and cleaned out some of the build up, re-installed and cleared the codes. All of this took less than 3 hours but it would have gone much quicker if I didn't drop the modified glow-plug while trying to insert it to "ream" the holes....boy am I glad that I could find it with a magnet. I too found that I didn't need to remove any screws or wire ties...just moved the plastic tray a bit to get at the one on the driver's side. I now have enough nickel anti seize to last till the end of time....my time anyways. The tool worked great with a 7/32 drill bit. As Tolsen has described, the tool can be made by cutting the connector end off (just above the 10MM hex) and holding the hex in a vise. The applied heat allowed me to grab the heater end of the probe with some vise grips and twist it until it came out. It didn't need to be red hot to work for me. Thanks again everyone....Gord

In Canada we don't like to suffer through spring break and I usually head down south at that time. Just Google Images of "spring break" and you will see why we don't consider it "suffering"...Gord