cheapohubby

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About cheapohubby

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    Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

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  1. Nope; didn't replace them. Just had them out from when I swapped the front struts. I assume you know about the temporary ESP disable (some kind of jumper on the OBDII port). Our winter beater misbehaved couple of times on snow covered roads. Tried to make me go straight on a snowy road when I needed to be taking a curve. Not the most pleasant experience. Fortunately, it finally cooperated before it took me into the ditch. Took a look at the grounding; just saw one bundle on the driver's side that looked fine. I assume there isn't one on the passenger side? Also tried rocking the car; to no effect. After I swap the wheels for the OEM alloys with snows, I will try intentionally bouncing off a few of the gravel road potholes (the wheels currently on there are the roadster spikelines that can't take much abuse). Need to swap them anyway, since the wide tires are badly cracking and will almost certainly fail the inspection.
  2. Perfect timing; just re-installed the headlights yesterday! Oh well, at least the front skirt is still off. Fortunately; Nova Scotia's inspections are only safety directed. They don't care about emissions, and I believe they don't care about any warning lights. If I recall correctly, had a car in for an inspection in the past with a light, and they didn't mention anything about it. Is the suggestion for rocking the car to potentially loosen up the yaw sensor?
  3. It seems like the minimum unit that CrappyTire sells is the Innova 31X0RS variants that start at $229. Return policy says full refund if in original packaging within 14 days; so I guess it'll depend on what packaging it comes in. I'll also make some calls to some of the local part stores and our regular mechanic and see if they have one that I can borrow or get them to read out the code for me.
  4. CrappyTire website seems to be on the fritz tonight, so haven't had a chance to look for options. But warning taken; will confirm that code reader can be returned if it doesn't work with my car. I'm fairly confident that the rings are seated tight. I had a look at the cables, and they seemed okay. Was most worried about the front sensors (assume the ESP light requires both front and back sensors to be working), since the front springs were both broken and could have easily damaged a sensor. Assuming that they don't complain about the warning light when I take the car if for a vehicle inspection (Nova Scotia requires them, but it seems to just basic stuff like brakes, frame integrity, etc); then I won't be bothered too much by it. The car is going to be a secondary vehicle only used in summer; won't really need traction control much. It's more a case that I'm so close to getting the car back to prime condition, it's just annoying.
  5. That's uber-weird that it doesn't behave the same with both cars. Maybe I'll check and see what CrappyTire has to offer for scantools; so I have an easy return option if it doesn't work.
  6. Checked the brake lights; seem to be operating normally. Checked any ESP related fuses, and they all appear to be good. Removed Scangauge just in case it is the wrong cable. Light is still permanently on after a couple of short drives (no other lights). I guess (unless somebody has another suggestion of something to check) it'll have to wait till I get ambitious/brave enough to make a trip to Halifax and visit a dealer for a diagnostic. But right now, they're in the middle of a covid surge with something like 40 cases a day for the last few days.
  7. I'm impressed that the "winter beater" looks so good! Have you been extra careful with maintenance (oil spray, or other preventatives)? Any major work? Before our winter beater got parked, the steering had some serious rattling. So it was waiting on me to dive in and replace the column. But the ocean air finished the job of the road salt, and now the tridion and floor is probably more rust than metal.
  8. Just curious; do we have any idea how many/rare 450s are that are still on the road? Given that they are all at least 15 years old at this point, I'd guess they would either have to be pampered summer cars, or been lucky to live in a snow/salt free environment. Our blue one (Squish) has completely rusted out (the jack poked a hole in the trideon the last time I tried to jack it up). Our black one (Darth, with the roadster rims) is still working and will hopefully be back on the road this summer.
  9. No beeping noises; haven't checked brake lights. Ice wouldn't be a problem in this case; too warm. I'm a wee bit confused on the Scangauge cable; found another discussion http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/24882-scangauge-newbie/ where Bessy shows a picture of the replacement cable she received (identical to the one I have here), and then MikeT comments that it's the correct cable because the non-CAN cable has all their pins.
  10. Can somebody confirm what the correct cable for the Scangauge should look like? One of the posts I read indicated the cable should have all the pins? The cable I've been using has pins missing. I remember them shipping me a second cable when I bought it, but can't recall ever looking at the difference. So it's entirely possible that they either shipped me two of the wrong cable, or I managed to swap them at some point (more likely). So far, haven't had any luck in trying to find the other cable. I think I also ran across a suggestion that using the wrong cable could potentially disable traction control; so maybe that's my issue with the indicator? I got the impression that if that was the case, the only way to re-enable it was to hook it up to the Star diagnostic?
  11. The traction control light (triangle with exclamation mark) comes on when I turn on the ignition, and stays on solid. Been doing it for a long time. Replaced the rings (heavily rusted). I've driven the car a couple of times since, and it doesn't seem to want to clear itself. Also tried disconnecting the battery to see if that would clear it; no effect. Scangauge isn't showing any codes, but I'm guessing it doesn't support showing/clearing ESP codes. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions on what I can check on my own? I'd rather avoid making a trip to Halifax to get the dealer to scan for codes; both because of distance and rising covid cases. I do have a parts car, but I'm guessing that swapping sensors is a bit of a pain. Or does anybody have a recommendation for a diagnostic tool that's known to scan/clear ESP codes?
  12. I think it was one of those add-ons that were popular in the early days; might even have gotten the same one for the other smartie if I recall. But yes; not really all that useful. Other than allowing you to do "dueling window control" with your passenger.
  13. Solved; previous owner had installed a driver's side remote switch for the passenger window which included a relay. Looks like that relay has gone rogue, constantly trying to do something that was resulting in the window motor getting hot. Removed the relay and reverted back to the original wiring, and it seems to be working properly without the click.
  14. I guess everything is "relative", but assuming Sydney's info is correct, Cape Breton is at least four hours away.
  15. Just seems kinda weird; what would the car be doing every 30 seconds in the door? We moved out to Nova Scotia, near Lunenburg (used to be in Ottawa). Nearest MB dealer is Halifax, which is around a 3 hour round trip.