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Showing results for tags 'cdi'.
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Hello everyone, Southwestern Ontario here. I’d love to share my 2006 W450 CDI Passion Cabrio project that I lifted 2” and put on 31” all terrains with you but I can’t seem to even get one single iPhone photo to upload to this post. If anyone could chime in on how to upload photos it would be much appreciated. Looking forward to sharing the enjoyment of these little cars with you all.
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I have a Smart 450 2007 with 20000k on the clock, I have had it stored for a couple of years and went to it a couple of weeks ago, connected the battery and it started first time. I noticed it was a bit smokey so I purchased the fuel treatment and all was good until now, It has now lost power and its creating smoke even at slow revs, I have removed and cleaned the EGR valve and its now sparkling once reassembled it still smokes... any thoughts would be useful.. thanks in advance -
Hey all! I bought an 06 CDI without the engine. The seller took more than I was aware of at the time. I have been slowly buying and rebuilding the car from there. I am missing about 40 parts, all fittings gaskets, screws, and some bigger stuff. The vehicle is an 06 but the engine and its components are from the 2010 54hp model. I figured while I wait for the last batch of 70 parts from the Mercedes dealership I should get the subframe and everything ready to receive the brand-new components in the next several months. This thing went from Canada to lake effect snow New York. I will need to have body work done and the subframe is rusty but good enough with no holes. However, the subframe is bad enough to reinforce the top to be safe. I will probably patch the body with stainless. I really want to remake the subframe out of stainless or titanium but I just can't spare the funds right now. I am in New England and I can't really go to the South or California. I might have found a few quite clean subframes on eBay between $200 and $350 with $200 shipping. There are also a couple I have found from the UK or Germany. The biggest question I have is can I mix and match the subframe from model year 06 and 2010+ without it interfering with the 06 body and the 2010 engine? Fabrication is not beyond my capability. After this, I am between $1000 and $2000 from having a street legal title and registered CDI. Also There was a transmission switch between the 06 and 10 model years. It went from a 5 to a 6 speed I believe. I am not sure if I should switch from the older one (which I have) to the newer one. I will likely be the last owner of this and want it to last and be its best. Additionally, there might be a need to buy a new ECU and or TCM for the new transmission if I go that route. I can get them it's just good to know. -
What do people think this is? Im going to say its either oil pick up or its a passage for crank case pressure to rise up and into the head to be passed out through the breather pipe. Cdi, 2010,
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Hey all! I bought an 06 CDI without the engine. The seller took more than I was aware of at the time. I have been slowly buying and rebuilding the car from there. I am missing about 40 parts, all fittings gaskets, screws, and some bigger stuff. The vehicle is an 06 but the engine and its components are from the 2010 54hp model. I figured while I wait for the last batch of 70 parts from the Mercedes dealership I should get the subframe and everything ready to receive the brand-new components in the next several months. This thing went from Canada to lake effect snow New York. I will need to have body work done and the subframe is rusty but good enough with no holes. However, the subframe is bad enough to reinforce the top to be safe. I will probably patch the body with stainless. I really want to remake the subframe out of stainless or titanium but I just can't spare the funds right now. I am in New England and I can't really go to the South or California. I might have found a few quite clean subframes on eBay between $200 and $350 with $200 shipping. There are also a couple I have found from the UK or Germany. The biggest question I have is can I mix and match the subframe from model year 06 and 2010+ without it interfering with the 06 body and the 2010 engine? Fabrication is not beyond my capability. After this, I am between $1000 and $2000 from having a street legal title and registered CDI. Also There was a transmission switch between the 06 and 10 model years. It went from a 5 to a 6 speed I believe. I am not sure if I should switch from the older one (which I have) to the newer one. I will likely be the last owner of this and want it to last and be its best. Additionally, there might be a need to buy a new ECU and or TCM for the new transmission if I go that route. I can get them it's just good to know.
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Good morning, I am writing to you about a problem with the turbine, I have a smart 450 diesel CDI with 240,000 km from 2000. Since I bought it used (with 170,000 km) the turbine has always whistled a bit and has always been dirty, probably due to blow-by. A month ago, within a few days, the classic whistling of the turbine began to stop being heard, the smoke increased when accelerating and the car lost a lot of power (especially when going uphill). So I did the following: - coreassy replacement, with complete cleaning of the turbine and compressor scrolls (the new turbine runs very well by hand) - drained the oil before reconnecting the delivery (see photo) - oiled the turbine before mounting it - deep cleaning of the turbine oil delivery and drain pipes - check that the oil drain was not clogged (I let the oil drip with a funnel) - oil and oil filter replacement (synthetic 5W-40 oil) - disassembly of the camshaft cover and cleaning of the blow-by breather cover (it was not clogged, just dirty) - once mounted, I checked that oil was coming out of the turbine (photo with cold engine at 2 degrees celsius and idling) - visually checked the hoses and intercooler (didn't see any cracks or crevices) - reconnected the wastegete piston with preload (this turbine does not have variable geometry) Also I noticed that the old turbine had no play and the shaft turned really well so maybe it just didn't go? Now to make some tests I left the blow-by pipe disconnected and closed the hole upstream of the turbine. I have done about 300 km and I have noticed: - black oil actually comes out of the blow-by pipe, which I think was the one that dirty the whole turbine. It seems to me that there is also some water vapor, but the car does not consume water. - the car no longer produces black smoke when accelerating The problem remains that I don't hear the whistle of the turbine and the car doesn't have the power it had before (it goes a little more, but not much). I add that I have never seen any motor light on the dash, neither before nor after the coreassy replacement. Does anyone have any idea what I can check? Thanks a lot to everyone! PHOTO OLD TURBINE OIL BLEEDING PHOTO TEST NEW TURBINE OIL DISCHARGE
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Hello I'm parting out my 2005 smart fortwo cdi. One of the valves got damaged from the rocker and it isn't worth fixing anymore. Besides that everything else worked great. 2 of 3 injectors were recently rebuilt. New crank sensor. New fuel regulator. High pressure pump still cranks at 379 bar. Alternator and starter both work great. Summer tires on alloys and winter tires on steelies. Turbo, muffler. Let me know what you need and we can work something out! Everything is available still! -
The Dorkmobile is at it again. When the boy drives it he says it gives a little bump then loses power and had a hard time maintaining 85 Km/h. Rarely gives a CEL. When it finally did, it came up with P2038. (Reductant injection air pressure sensor- range/performance problem) Everything I can look up referred to a DEF injector, which we all know it does not have. I had parts on hand so I replaced the Fuel Pressure sensor and the MAP sensor. Still same issue. The only thing I can think of, is it may need a new muffler. There is an exhaust leak at the bottom seam and a significant amount is escaping out not far from the exhaust nozzle. I went to a custom exhaust shop and he said he can fab a system with just a resonator for less than half the price of an OEM muffler but he had an 03 and never had that issue when his exhaust was leaking. I am at a loss. No idea where to go from here. Ideas?
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So I've been digging around, fantasizing about getting some seriously extended range on this little Smart. Evilution's smart-alec comment about having an extended fuel tank which has fuel dispersion points all over the globe notwithstanding, there's scant little out there for a real haulmeister option. Worse, it seems nobody even makes replacement tanks for the thing. If this one got damaged or rusted through, I'd have to scrounge up a dead Smart or look into one of the tank refurbishment companies -- which is fine, I get it, this is old and uncommon tech, and it's just not cost effective to make something for retail which rarely fails. But it sure does get me wondering what I could do to retrofit an extended-volume or extended-compartment tank on this thing. Thus far it looks like the "best" option would be to make a custom tank that fits in the cargo area above the motor and attach it directly to the main tank. I can't see how that wouldn't be a gravity feed system, though that's acceptable for diesel in DOT; but getting past the "fuel lines in passenger compartment" makes for a tough justification toward compliance. Worse, I'd probably want that 120L of cargo space for actual cargo most of the time, so the tank would have to be easily removable, and that introduces joint sealant issues and... and... and... Yeah. I think a more flexible definition of "extended range" will be needed: A bunch of yellow diesel fuel cans in the cargo compartment and some quick stops to refuel which are not required to coincide with national infrastructure. :: sigh ::
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So first I sold my baby 450 cdi 2005 and I made 130000 km ( now car have 180000 km). I want to buy newer one 451 cdi, I already own one with 45 hp and it is good. Now I wish to buy 54 hp, I read about dpf problem so I want to ask cen I remove dpf and make remap and I sort that problem and how is that engine is it good or 45 hp is better. Price is 100 eur more for used one. It have 100000 km 2012 year. This is my old one (red one diesel) And white one I have my women drives 461 cdi 45 hp) So I won't to be faster and buy 54 hp cdi😁 Many thanks for helping me.
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Got in my car yesterday and started driving. Noticed it wouldn’t exceed 3000 RPMs. Turned it off when I got back and went out a little later to start it and it won’t start now. Drove fine and shifted fine other than not going over the 3000. When I turn the key now the fuel pump isn’t even kicking on. I read somewhere it could be the EGR. I just don’t even know where to begin without taking it to Mercedes.
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Help i am new to smarts and have an issue well several. I had an incident where my engine slid on me and I broke. Line on near the oil filler cap and have no idea what it is. it is black vinyl with a quick connect that runs across the top of the engine. I am hoping.i can attach a new quick connect or clamp the line on. When it broke I heard a hiss of air escaping . thanks
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So I purchased a 2005 CDI fortwo a few weeks ago. I live in Florida and it’s 60 degrees this morning car won’t start. When I first turn the key over I notice the glow plug light doesn’t come on for more than 1 or 2 seconds then goes off. Every video I have seen it comes on and stays on for a bit until the glow plugs are heated up then they start it. Haven’t really had any issues until this morning. Battery is brand new been trying to start it for about 30 minutes now. Any ideas? Thank you. -
Hi guys, I just bought a 2006 Smart Fortwo Passion CDI. So far (knock on wood) she is healthy with no known issues. I'd like to keep it that way by tuning out the EGR and any other fuel economy / reliability tuning that can be done. Also, I am in Canada if that matters? That being said, can someone be so kind as to point me in the right direction or answer a few questions about tuning for me? What hardware do I need? I seem to understand I need a KWP 2000 Plus like this one: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/KWP2000-Plus-ECU-Remap-Flasher-OBD2-ECU-Chip-Tuning-Tool-Auto-Diagnostic-Scanner/263743514629 is that correct? What software do I need? Where do I get the BINS, or flash files? Also any other tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! -
Greetings from Edmonton, AB! I own a 2005 smart fortwo cdi, I've had it for 2 years as of this summer. It is my daily driver and I love it!
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Hello, I have bridged the obd pins 5 and 7 to turn the esp off on my 2003 fortwo cdi. When I pulled the bridge out of the OBD, esp remained turned off. Is there some hack to turn it back on? -
Hi, I am having a weird problem with my 450 cdi. We bought the car and everything was fine for couple of days. Then all of a sudden when I started the car, the little triangle shaped light (esp one) was on, and when I tried to move it started shaking and turned off. Tried to turn it on for a couple of times in a row, the same thing happened. Fourth or fifth time I started it, I managed to get it rolling, but light was still on. Gear changing was normal. When I stopped and let it rest, the light went off and everything was great for a week. Today when I started the car in the morning the light was again on, and car was acting strange again. Couple of hours later I tried to start the car and light was off. Interensting thing is that when the car start without the light, it drives great, I can easily get it to 100+kph without light turning on. What can be the problem? Any ideas? Maybe bad battery?
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I am the new owner of a 2005 CDI Pure that I have enjoyed driving the past week. These are incredible cars! i am excited to add some care, upgrades and improvements to this car for greater enjoying experiences in the future. I will add and support where I can while searching for answers to my questions before asking them. Thank you for the addition to the Forum, i am very excited!
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New to smart cars and this forum. I recently bought a totalled off 2006 smart w450 that was side swiped from our provincial insurance provider. The reason I bought the car was to take the motor and transmission out and put it in my 2007 joyner sand spider. The car started and drove just fine when I brought it home. I drove it around the farm and made sure the engine and tranny functioned properly with no faults. I removed the engine/transmission and wiring harness to put into the dune buggy but before I went any further I hooked everything back up with it suspended on a stand. The engine started right up no problems. The dash, throttle and everything else works fine. The issue I'm having is that when I select reverse or drive the display shows 0. No gear selected. Just like if you don't have the peddle depressed in the car. I have the brake peddle switch hooked up and can hear the relay working in the fuse box but still shows the "0" when selecting reverse or drive. Is the brake pedal the issue or is it something else? Is there a way to fool it into thinking the brake pedal is depressed all the time so it will go into gear no matter what? I won't be using the smart brake system as the buggy already has its own brake system already. Any suggestions would help. On a side note when I hooked up the wiring harness to the engine and transmission when they were out of the car I only hooked up the connections I need for in the dune buggy. The SRS system, seat wiring, climate control, brake/antilock brake system, door harnesses, and lights were not hook up when reenergized. Not sure if this would have cause issues with the computers or not. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks -
Just registered to this illustrious forum. I have been lurking for a little over two years, ever since I picked up a 2005 Passion Cabriolet CDI. Over that time, I have found much useful information on this site that has lessened somewhat the aggravation of ownership of a Smart car. But I have to say that, overall, purchasing this car has been a big, big mistake. It has come to the point where I really need to find a knowledgeable mechanic who really likes working on these tiny cars and who lives somewhere in the mid-Vancouver Island (Parksville-Qualicum) area. So far, my search has been fruitless. So, here is my first question. Does anybody know of such an esteemed person? Assuming that such a person does not exist, I have three other alternatives, the Nanaimo MB dealership, Victoria TPM, and Flying Tiger in Richmond. The latter two are listed as recommended on the CSC service provider list, but I could not find many comments about them. Does anybody have any recent experiences with any of the above, particularly the Nanaimo one as it is the closest to me? (I did visit Nanaimo MB over a year ago and I got the distinct impression that they had no passion for my Passion and that they only saw it as a conduit to siphon as much money into their pockets as possible.) I have two main current concerns. I have an oil leak that a mechanic thinks might be coming from the turbo but he does not want to work on it. My second concern is an undulating quiet wauping sound that varies with road speed that seems to be coming from the front end, but you only really hear it between 40 and 60 kph. I am thinking that it might be caused by the ESP reacting to bad reluctors, but that is just a wild guess. So, I am soliciting comments as to who or where is the best person/place for me to have these things fixed. Now, a parting thought - a thought exercise, so to speak. Imagine, if you will, a world where MB properly supported the Smart car and these little beasties developed a reputation of being dependable. Just sit back a moment and think about that. A world full of dependable Smart cars. And MB making more money than they would know what to do with. I wonder if there ever was an MB exec who ever thought about that. Probably not. -
Hello everyone, I have been lurking here for the past week, and decided to make an account to hopefully get a few questions answered. Most of the relevant information I've found is coming from 2012, so I am hoping there have been new developments/discoveries. I am the significant other (read mechanic/detailer) of a 2006 fortwo cdi owner in the US. The car was purchased on ebay from a dealer in Ohio who imported it from Canada and changed it to meet DOT standards. We were originally living in Colorado (euro diesel mecca of the western US, outside of the Pacific Northwest) but recently moved to Mississippi (taint of the US) for graduate school (masters for me and DVM for her). There is NO European car scene here, especially not for diesels. We had a terrible time finding a shop qualified to work on the thing. I am a long time VW/Audi enthusiast (try not to hold it against me) and will be swapping a 1.9 TDI into my Toyota 4Runner by this time next year (if everything goes reasonably according to plan) but am completely new to Mercedes/Smart. Her car is a piece of "work". It is currently on ramps in the driveway because it won't start. It will crank just fine and will occasionally let out a little put, but won't start. I am reasonably certain that it is the crank position sensor, but because of all of the Canadian EGR nonsense I am having a devil of a time getting to the darn thing. The low beams of the headlight do not work because of the drastically undersized wiring coming from the SAM burning up (which after seeing the hack job done on the stereo, I had erroneously blamed on the former owner). I will be taking care of that soon, I want to wait until the rest of the work is done. It needs new reluctor rings (I sourced an aftermarket set from the UK), and I am trying to talk her into a Malone tune, but the closest tuner is 2 states away. The good news is that is has just under 100,000 miles, an AEM dryflow panel filter, powerstop rotors and pads, an aftermarket stereo headunit with bluetooth calling ( had to source a reverse harness and trim surround from LATVIA), and brand new headlights (imported from Spain...wtf, its a Canadian car) and (modified) projector lens fog lights waiting to be installed. The greatest improvement I have seen was when I replaced the battery to ground wire with a 2 ga cable along with appropriate sanding and dielectric grease. If you haven't done it, I highly recommend it. That is about all she has let me do so far. We bought the car because she has always liked them, and once we found that there was a diesel option and that it could run biodiesel it became a "must" purchase. I am a chemist (among other things) and dabble in biodiesel at home. I have yet to run anything but a test generator with it (I don't have a centrifuge to truly get rid of the particulate matter that could clog the injectors) but once I find the right deal, her fuel tank will be filled at home (don't tell the Uncle Sam).
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I've been having a lot of problems with my '06 450 CDI Passion. The battery light keeps coming on after the engine has been idling for about 10 seconds, and never goes off again. I took it for servicing, and was told that the aftermarket stereo & amp were causing a drain - not true, because I've removed both from the car. Here are some more details: I'm on my THIRD alternator in 3 years (replaced 1 year ago, car has only been driveable for 3 months since!!) so I doubt it's the alternator Brand new Smart battery installed 3 weeks ago, driven once since (back from mechanic, battery light came on about 15 min into my trip home) The only issue I can see with the battery is that the bolt for the bracket that holds it down has been sheared off (see red box in photo), so the battery slides around a fair bit, and the bolt hole is very rusty (I wire brushed it). Also, the ground connection to the frame is rusty as well (see green box in photo), and I cannot remove the washer, so I'm not convinced that the ground has proper contact with the frame. No error codes Used multimeter, battery puts out about 13V (I think? I don't know much about electrical stuff) Last week when testing the battery with the multimeter, I turned the car off. Then tried to start again, and got the immobilizer key on dash. Pulled key, locked/unlocked doors, tried to start, got the immobilizer again. Repeat x3 before giving up. 2 days ago, I brought my portable power pack and jump-started the Smart, started fine, no battery light. Let it idle for 5 minutes before unhooking the jump cables. Battery light came on within 10 seconds of removing the jump cables. I can't find a parasitic draw anywhere (doesn't mean there isn't one, just that I can't find anything) All fuses good I've also been having an issue for over 2years with a drastic loss of power when on the highway. The car won't go more than 90km/hr, even in 6th gear. I used to keep it in 5th for maximum torque. Replaced turbo TWICE, did EGR valves, replaced clutch, transmission ok, and no error codes. Please help me figure this out! I've spent over $3,000 fixing this car in the past 1.5 years alone, and I'm not putting any more money into guesswork. If I can't figure this out, I have to get rid of the car. I'd like to keep it, but I'm out of ideas on what to check or do to figure out what's going on. **Photo from Evilution
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My 450 CDI cranks but doesn't start. Suddenly after a round of two maintenance tasks (see below). It started briefly but conked out. It cranks very well but it sounds way too smooth. Not sure if this is the sound of no injectors injecting. With the good weather finally here in Ontario, I decided to clear two maintenance items that were backlogged over the winter. 1) ABS reluctor ring replacement (Mine had a big crack in it. Discovered it in the late fall when replacing my rear wheel bearings). Took 3 weeks for the replacement rings it to arrive from UK. It got way too cold and I am without garage. Somehow the ring held up over the winter. 2) Rubber intake turbo hose (Mine had a patch over the wear hole that was duct taped and hosed clamped to get by). The patch was working well enough that replacement got pushed out to today. But it was leaking (by the look of oil blow mess in the area). I did the intake hose first. It is a bit awkward to get it in and out. But I did it before to inspect and patch the old one. I don't think I buggered anything up in the process. But I could have. I just wormed the old one out and wormed the new one in. Didn't remove any connectors etc. The only hard part is getting the hose onto the intake manifold. I "should have" tested it at that point. But I didn't. Lesson learned. I then replaced the passenger side (RHS) ABS reluctor ring. I did this by disconnecting the X to the De Dion tube and gently jacking up on the motor. You can get just enough space for the shaft to clear the hub. I didn't pull the shaft from the transmission but replaced the reluctor ring "in situ" (Dremel grinding tool is very handy to clean up the body). The rings are an interference fit so there was some work with a brass drift to get the ring in place. I'm suspicious of the turbo intake hose replacement. It is right by the fuel injection hoses. Maybe I flexed something too much. But would the gentle "lift" of the engine stress something in a bad way? What I'm thinking: 1) Check to see if fuel is getting to the rail and check the electrical connections to the injectors. 2) Check to see what may have been pulled out of place when jacking then engine up (could not have been more than 1 inch or so). 3) Check the crank sensor? It is close to the drive shaft. Maybe it got mangled with my messing around with the crank shaft. Any other ideas on what I might have disrupted today? Any hints on diagnosing the problem? I don't have a proper manual for this car so I'm a bit lost as to where all the components are located. Thanks, Mike -
I removed a couple of hoses from my 2006 CDI. I did this to make space to remove the intercooler. But when I disconnected the hoses, a liquid came out, which it seems like water with coolant. Does this type of car uses water as a coolant? If so, were shall I add water to replace the one drained from the hoses???? Thanks for you help. -
All parts sold as of July 19.
