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The clutch in my 2005 ForTwo diesel died suddenly. Getting a replacement was a challenge but was accomplished. However, I'm in the States - New York to be precise - and the reactions I get when asking if someone can work on this car are almost priceless. Are there any suggestions on how to find a transmission shop that would be likely to want to take this on? Most people around here have never encountered this car, which was brought in from Canada. If towing it back was feasible, I would do that, but that would be expensive and a huge investment of time. Is this worth making a ton of phone calls or is there a quicker method of finding the right place?

i have just bought a 2015 smart for 2 and i notice the clutch take off point is very high - its not slipping but wonder if its adjustable to move the bite further down the peddle ?

Hi all, I've been lurking on these forums for quite a while now and have had a lot of success treating various issues on my smart up until this point. As the title says, my '08 Passion 451 has had a transmission issue which has only become exceedingly apparent until recently - meaning it may have been a progressive failure somewhere. Its just hit 69k miles. The transmission has had the current issue for at least 1k miles. The issue is when shifting. After a cold start and in manual shift mode, the smart will not shift out of first gear unless the car is at decent speed and the revs are high (i'd say above 4k, i don't have the tach. pods to tell) In auto shift mode, the car will shift at normal RPMs but then--as the accelerator is depressed--the tranny seems to "slip" out of a low revving second gear and into neutral. When this happens the dash reads 1st gear and the motor is free-revving. I recover from this "slip" into neutral by releasing the accelerator and letting the revs reduce. Then I reapply the gas and will hear the clutch slowly grab/slip until back into a high revving first gear. To get into second from then, I must push the gas a bit harder and shift. It seems to require a strong inertia to catch second gear. Once the car has warmed up after about a half mile of driving, it will then shift from first to second at a more reasonable rev (2~3k). If it has been 50 degrees or more outside, the smart will also show less problematic shifting at cold start. The smart has had its clutch actuator replaced and subsequently configured at a mercedes dealership. I have since adjusted it/moved it away from driver side so that the plunger is closer to the clutch plate. I have also recently replaced the tranny fluid with the correct royal purple fluid -- this helped the smoothness but not the shift issue itself (PS: change your tranny fluid! mine was filthy). I suspect a worn clutch plate, as I can feel it slipping during certain slow take-offs. Many times the upshifts will be harsh as well. An OBD code of P0716 for Input / Turbine speed sensor A circuit range/performance is present. My question is if the problem may be limited to a clutch plate replacement, or if the flywheel has become glazed, or perhaps it is even just an issue of some solenoid inside the tranny housing? I have replaced the transmission speed sensor (the one above the clutch actuator) but the code is persistent. I have also replaced the crankshaft position sensor (which may have nothing to do with the issue).

Hi all, I’ve just got my hands on a Roadster that’s been sitting for a bit over three years, I’ve got the engine running smoothly, and with the engine off it will happily switch into reverse and first gear, however with the engine on, if I try placing it in reverse, or drive, I simply hear a loud, repeated clicking sound, quite a hefty one, as well as the revs dying down in line with the clicking, almost thumping, and it will simply refuse to go into gear (although I suspect not for a lack of trying) I’m not sure about other models, but it will also refuse to start in reverse or drive, asking me to shift into neutral fast. Understandable. Thanks to the transmission being constant mash, rather than synchromesh, I suspected the clutch was at fault, as this somewhat remind me of what I would expect to happen if you tried changing gears in a constant mesh transmission, without the clutch properly pressed in. I may be mistaken, as I only have a little experience with them. Throwing a camera under my car, I saw that the clutch actuator was incredibly slow, and didn’t sound all that happy at all. For reference, I also looked at the clutch actuator for my happy, healthy, fortwo (450), and saw that the clutch actuator slammed forwards and backwards like you would not believe. As such, I grabbed a spare clutch actuator from a wrecked 450 I had lying around, however it would not move at all in the roadster. Not surprising, given the wreck was in rather bad shape. I then grabbed the clutch actuator off my healthy fortwo, tested it in the roadster, and while it seemed faster at times, still, on occasion, it would actuate rather slowly. Some contact cleaner on the plugs did not seem to affect this. I installed it in the roadster, jamming that dam thing against the clutch as hard as I could with one hand, and while it worked once or twice, activating swiftly, and once, when the car was still on jack stands, it even shifted into reverse, upon lowering the car down and trying again, all I heard was that dreaded clicking sound. From this point onwards, the clutch actuator no longer move forwards particularly fast, nowhere near as fast as it did in the fortwo. Before I forget, I have followed evilution’s guide on servicing clutch actuators on the original roadster actuator, and the one from the scrap fortwo, however have left the one from my working fortwo mostly as is, spare some desperately sprayed in white lithium grease post installation. Additionally, I have done most of this testing with and without the roadster connected directly to the aux battery on my Toyota hybrid, and that thing can jumpstart a freight train, so I am not at all concerned about low-voltage issues. I am wondering if this is an issue with either the power being delivered to the clutch actuator, the clutch actuator, or, perhaps, issues with the clutch itself? The actuator is behaving slowly when not installed against the clutch suggests the issue lies somewhere in between the ignition key and the clutch actuator, but, as this car rested in a rather humid climate for three years, I would not discount the possibility that the clutch is possibly the main problem here. Any and all suggestions are warmly welcomed, short of getting the thing toes to my local smart specialist I am somewhat lost for ideas. Thank you kindly for all of your help, I appreciate it more than I can express in words.

Hi guys, I am new in this club so I would first like to say Hi! To briefly describe the issue: my wife bought a Smart Forfour W454 2005 model with softouch+ gearbox which runs fine, except that does not auto crawls(does not move when I release break pedal) and sometimes does not engage R (it displays 0 on the screen). I was at a local shop, the guy scanned it with a MB Star, no errors on clutch module and the output was this like this(also please see the attached screenshot): The mechanic said that the the values are not ok and that indicates that the clutch is worn badly. Do you think he is right? The values are that bad? And sorry for posting here but I could not find a 454 section. Thank you in advance! Sorin

I recently had a problem with the clutch and I had to call a service truck to bring my car to a repair center. The guy told me that they had to replace the clutch, so I did it. It was really expensive, but I still have some problems with the clutch. I was wondering if there is a way to check that the clutch has been really replaced with a new one. I heard that from the ODB it is possible do diagnose the clutch wear. is it true and reliable? Unfortunately I don't know anyone where I am now and I don't really trust the guy that has (hopefully) replaced the clutch. Thank you for your help.

My 2006 (150,000 km) Smart car is having problems with the clutch. Especially in continuous stop and go during slow traffic. To start, since I got my car I felt the clutch was rough when stop and drive on intersections or traffic lights, but I thought that it was normal for Diesel engines. Also, ocassionally during gear change, the clutch stopped working but just needed to turn off the car, wait few minutes and everything went to normal. But lately the problem is more frequent and the car has left me in the middle on the road which is not safe specially in main highways. I checked the counterpart that is pusheds by the clutch actuator rod (I believe is called the clutch fork), and it seems fine. I notice the rod is passing very near to the edge of the clutch cover hole, actually it almost touches the edge. I removed and checked the actuator and it seems ok. In the past I lubricated the actuator with white grease. By the way, I mounted the actuator in a way that the rod is against the clutch fork so there is no free space between the rod and the clutch fork, so I´m not sure if that is the correct wat to install it. Do you think the problem is the actuator or the clutch? Before I spend money on trying to fix this, I would apppreciate your comments. Thanks

I am Nenad from Zemun (city near belgrade in serbia),i am maried,have 3 year daughter and work in my delivery service named "zona 011". From where to start,i have problem with my smart for two,cdi,2004. It is all about clutch,and my question is: Is anyone try to open it and how it made? I take off cluth by my self and i want to try to repair it,if someone have expirience i will be greatfull to him if he want to help me with that.. I hop so that someone will read this P.S. sorry for my gramatic and writing mystakes

Hey everyone! New to the forum and would like to ask for some advice from some more knowledgeable people. Recently obtained a smart fortwo CDI 2005 model. I've also owned another but have never experienced this problem. I was driving my smart fortwo CDI and was accelerating in the acceleration lane. I attempted a downshift (note that I don't have a tach on the dash) and the car had a bit of a kickback but continued on. About a mile later, there was another kickback (I forget if I downshifted or not) but the 3 dashed lines appeared on the dash. I was still driving at around 40mph and was still able to accelerate to 50mph but once there was traffic, I slowed down and realized the transmission was no longer engaged to the engine. I was unable to shift the car back into drive or reverse and when I do, it is accompanied by a rumble from the transmission. I am still able to start the car but unable to shift it into gear. So the possibilities I came up with are: 1) First two gears in the transmission are stripped, which would require a new transmission. 2) Clutch was already worn and burned out due to downshift at high speed. Clutch actuator was already adjusted all the way in from previous owner which leads me to believe that it was already worn out to a certain extent. Thanks in advance, Cheers!