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Hello, I unfortunately do not speak English, so I apologize for the crooked translation)) some photos of my emulator making. and thanks to stickman007 for the diagram!

For those interested: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EGR-CHEATER-SIMULAT...c9e&vxp=mtr

That's what the dealer calls it. The Germans call it a mixing housing.Back in early June I started to get a check engine light. The scan gauge(gotta love it) was showing PO401-exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient and PO402-excessive. I spoke to one of the techs and he said that I needed a new EGR valve.This isn't the first one that they replaced.My Gina has over 86,000kms and is out of warranty. Prior to running out of warranty I had complained about some black tarry leakage from what I thought was the turbo. Well that was probably caused from the blocked egr valve so my dealer was kind enough to help me with the costs. I just got my camera back so I thought you might be interesred in some pictures.The EGR valve was replaced on the 9th of July and my baby is back to normal

Hey everybody, I was playing around with lasers and acid and stuff tonight, and decided to take some pictures. I thought this might be sort of interesting to some of you. Let me back up a bit. I made a batch of EGR emulators a while back for someone, using plain old perfboard (this stuff) and through hole components (Like these). While these worked, they were big, bulky, and took a good amount of time to make. All that in mind, I decided to make my own circuit boards, so that I can use little surface mount components (Like these!) I started by grabbing the latest iteration of the EGR emulator circuit by smartdriver (from here) This is all well and good, but isn't particularly usable in it's current state. With that in mind, I headed over to Digikey and found suitable components to be used in the circuit and ordered them. At this point, I knew the size of the components being used. With that info, I used a circuit layout tool called EAGLE to make the circuit below: Then I hid some of the layers to make this, which is just the bits that we want to actually show up on the circuit board: Now, this is where things start getting fun I grabbed some copper clad board from my stash: Then I cut a 2" strip off of one end (Since this was really just an experiment). I then spraypainted the copper side of the board (Black, although it doesn't really matter). Once the spraypaint was dry, I chucked the now black copper board into my laser cutter/etcher (A 40W CO2 laser, in case you were curious). I used it to etch the black and white inverted image of my circuit from above into the spraypaint, leaving spraypaint only where I wanted my copper lines to be: (Action shot!) Once that was done, I was left with a strip of copper board, with five spraypaint circuits on it. I mentioned acid before, right? This is the part where we start playing with extra dangerous stuff I pulled out my container of Ferric Chloride (Attainable at your nearest quality electronics shop), and got the bubbler going in it (Not just for show!) As it happens, ferric chloride eats (etches) away at copper, but not spray paint (Which makes it an "etch resist"). The bubbler helps this process by keeping the liquid moving, and getting fresh acid in contact with the copper. I threw the copper board into the jug o' acid, and waited. and waited. and waited. The process should only really take 20-30 minutes, but my acid isn't particularly fresh, and has been used a bunch of times before this, so it's slower. Also, it wasn't particularly warm in the basement where I was doing the etching (Heat speeds the process). In the end, it took about 1hr, 10 minutes to etch the exposed copper off of the boards. Once that was done, a quick rubdown of the boards with acetone removed the spray paint, and I was left with this: For scale, each of those etched out circuits is about 1" x 1". The components that go on the board are absolutely miniscule. That's really as far as I got tonight, but it seems like good progress. All that needs to be done after this is to drill a few holes for the wires to connect to the EGR harness, and soldering on the components. That's a job for tomorrow with a magnifier! Hope it was interesting!

This past weekend I've decided to remove my EGR valve completely since I'm running a EGR emulator that I got from Pinhead. As suggested by Bilgladstone, I went to my local CanTire and got a 1-3/4 ID resonator, 18" length, Canadian Tire part #548651. I also found an online source on how to build a tool that can make a bead on the pipe so that the hose won't pop off. Total cost for the mod:EGR Emulator $100Resonator pipe $10Pipe Clamp $5Extra hose clamp $2Scrap metal to cover exhaust pipe $0Total: $117Beading Tool:Old Vice clamp $0Washer $0.80Word of advice - there's very little hose (the elbow that's connected to the bottom of the EGR valve) to fit the resonator pipe, be careful, measure 3x before cutting!Good luck,Izzy

Pretty sure my EGR has failed, so its time to remove it. I have the emulator but thats it. Does anyone still have the pipe and blocking plate left over? I know some batches have been made in the past... Im in need of 1 of each.Im in Toronto

I know there has been a lot of discussion about this topic...so much that it is a little confusing. I would like to purchase this emulator from Poland (only place I can find one) : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-CHEATER-BLAN...=item2a2f34b6ac My EGR (2006 450 0.8L) is plugging up often, and the EGR solenoid is not working. Car is running like it is in limp mode. If I purchase this emulator, is it ALL I need to bypass the EGR? Or is there a better place anyone knows of to get one? Thanks

So if one can clear the "emotionally disturbed" code by unplugging the electrical connector and replacing it with the shunt that's already been discussed, what's the point of blanking off the EGR flange? The damn thing's plugged anyway.Comments?

Just recently bought a 2005 Smart Car.Car went into Limp mode after first fuel fill up.Read all the forum notes on here and tried everything.EGR is clean, Turbo turns freely, tried reset, tried battery off for a night, reset all error codes. Checked solenoid on EGR not sure if it works, or not, seems to we took it apart and check inside all seems to work fine. Reassembled it and put it back Only error code 403 comes on. Still limp mode.Bought all the part to make an emulator, but have not tackled that yet. Not sure if we are looking at the right area anymore. Dealer wants more to look at the car then it is worth. So question is any ideas? Anyone have an emulator in the Kelowna are we could try on this car to see if in fact that is the problem?Any advice much appreciated.HD