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Hello, I have a 2000 450 diesel smart (city-coupe). Today I stopped the car after a 1-hour drive and 5 minutes later the engine was not starting. The starter motor was working perfectly, but the engine was not starting. Not hearing the noise of the fuel pump when the key is in position 1, I checked the wires in the fuse/rele' box under the left seat (see FQ101 guide). I noticed that the fuel pump wire is kind of melted (connector H-LS I pin 2). See the pictures below. With a 10 A fuse-protected wire from the cigarette lighter, I provided 12 V and the car could start. Then I drove home (1 hour again). Now I've cleaned the "burned" connector and the car seems to work properly without the external 12 V. I am also going to replace the fuel filter (was not old though). QUESTIONS: - While driving back I could not disconnect the external 12 V, otherwise the engine would switch off. Is normal that the fuel pump is always active while driving? - What do you think happened? Should I measure the Amperes that the pump uses to see if is working properly? - Where can I buy the crimps to replace the bad ones? Do you know how to replace them? - Does someone have the ECU pinout for the diesel version? I could only find the petrol ones on Evolution Thank you.

Hi guys, I need some advice. This is my first post here. I have a bit of an unusual situation regarding the alternator and the electrical system with my 451 MHD from 2012. I tried looking up the topic, but none of the posts seem to answer my questions... I must mention that I'm not a mechanic or engineer, I just have some basic understanding of physics. A few days ago, the battery warning light came on while returning from a trip (about 130 km). The warning light went out when I switched off all the lights, unplugged the phone charger and turned off the radio. It came back on after a while. Since I thought it to be prudent not to turn the ignition off, I just drove at a fixed speed to minimize gear changes and power consumption and to get as close to home as possible to minimize the towing distance. I made it home alright. The next day the car started normally. I drove it around the block with no issues. I even ventured out on a trip to the mechanic (about 7km through the city) with no issues. The error the on-board computer spat out was "No alternator excitation", but no warning lights in the dashboard. The error was cleared and the car started. He changed the belt to the alternator as we noticed the outer part of it was a bit chewed up. The car started ok, the connectors to the alternator seemed to be ok, the battery seemed to be fine. The same day I had to take an unexpected trip out of town, about 260 km round trip. I knew it was risky but it was unavoidable. The same red battery warning light came back on. This time it did not go away after I switched off everything I possibly could. I had to stop for gas and had to turn the engine off. It wouldn't start at first. I pushed the car to the parking lot of the gas station and successfully started the car. I made it to the destination. While there, I turned the ignition on a few times and it started without a hitch all throughout the evening. The next day, on my way back, the warning light came back on as soon as I left town. I drove carefully about 110 km without any issues, and just as I got off the main road to take a 5 km shortcut through a village, I had to brake more frequently and even had to come to a complete stop going up a hill. The ABS warning light came on, the gear shifts were very late, the windows wouldn't open or close and I was stuck in 4th for a while. I pulled over. Tried the ignition again with no success and called a towtruck to the mechanic as it was the closest. The car did start when I arrived there. As he did not have time to work on my car at that moment, I left it there. Later he called and said the alternator must be replaced and we sourced a second hand alternator. The problem I encountered was that the mounting system of the new (SH) alternator is different from the one I had on my car, as you can hopefully see in the pictures attached. I tried to find an exact copy of the alternator I had, but with no luck. There are new parts available, but none in Romania, and I would have to wait for a few weeks to get a replacement. Now my questions are these: 1. Was it really the alternator that's at fault or maybe it's something else. The error was "no excitation". I know that alternators rarely break and my mechanic doesn't have much experience with these. 2. How can I find an exact replacement for my current alternator, with the required bushings and all. I know Mercedes made several revisions to the mounting system over the years. 3. Is it possible to fix the old alternator? 4. Can I change the casing form the old alternator and fit it on the new one? 5. Is it worth it to modify the new alternator so that it would fit exactly where the old one used to be? It would require milling the holes on the mounting brackets to make them bigger. 6. Is there something I am missing? The "broken" one is on the right and it has a blue mark. The new SH one has a yellow mark. Wow this post turned out to be a doozie... sorry about that.

Hi All I have a 06 CDI with only 90k on it and now it won’t turn over, the cars been frustrating I just changed the alternator for a now charge issue ( i thought) and now the car won’t turn over. When I try to start it it just clicks fast like the starter pinion is moving back and forth. I put the booster on it and it just does it faster. I don’t think it’s my battery everything else on the car works fine. Is it possible the cable can be corroded from the battery to the starter/alternator or is it a bad ground. the car did try to start once but I can’t get it to do it again. Any input would be greatly appreciated

My smart (2005, 450 CDI EU Version) has problems with start-up since a few months. They occur in random unexpected moments. Sometimes when I leave the car, FE for 30 mins, it won't start. The starter doesn't even turn. Left for another 15-30 minutes waiting and doing nothing, the car usually is able to start. Sometimes also when I leave the car with engine on for a while, the engine stops by itself. OBD diagnostics proved only one error code - B1016 which probably means "CAN MESSAGE DIAGNOSIS FROM INSTRUMENT CLUSTER IS MISSING". No active lights on the dashboard when car is on. What I did is I checked the battery and SAM unit. Any ideas what could be wrong?

Hello everybody, I recently bought a Smart 800 CDI of the year 2000 with 170.000 km (i Know it is a lot, but the price was almost 0). The car works, but has 2 main issues: - as shown in the attached pictures there is an oil leak somewhere near the turbine - the previous owner told me that with the rain the car stops working because of some electrical problem As A side note, I tried to remove the black plastic tube connected to the input side of the turbine. The turbine shaft seems to be firm, meaning that the shaft is not slack (maybe only a tiny). Could someone point me toward some page where I can have som hints about what is going on for these two issue? Thank you!

Hi just bought my second 2005 Smart 450 but has weird problem When I depress brake pedal it acts like I just turned on ignition even thought key not in ignition also does the same when turning on hazard lights .Car runs fin but will not shut off till brakes are released Has anyone seen these symptom's before T

I've been having a lot of problems with my '06 450 CDI Passion. The battery light keeps coming on after the engine has been idling for about 10 seconds, and never goes off again. I took it for servicing, and was told that the aftermarket stereo & amp were causing a drain - not true, because I've removed both from the car. Here are some more details: I'm on my THIRD alternator in 3 years (replaced 1 year ago, car has only been driveable for 3 months since!!) so I doubt it's the alternator Brand new Smart battery installed 3 weeks ago, driven once since (back from mechanic, battery light came on about 15 min into my trip home) The only issue I can see with the battery is that the bolt for the bracket that holds it down has been sheared off (see red box in photo), so the battery slides around a fair bit, and the bolt hole is very rusty (I wire brushed it). Also, the ground connection to the frame is rusty as well (see green box in photo), and I cannot remove the washer, so I'm not convinced that the ground has proper contact with the frame. No error codes Used multimeter, battery puts out about 13V (I think? I don't know much about electrical stuff) Last week when testing the battery with the multimeter, I turned the car off. Then tried to start again, and got the immobilizer key on dash. Pulled key, locked/unlocked doors, tried to start, got the immobilizer again. Repeat x3 before giving up. 2 days ago, I brought my portable power pack and jump-started the Smart, started fine, no battery light. Let it idle for 5 minutes before unhooking the jump cables. Battery light came on within 10 seconds of removing the jump cables. I can't find a parasitic draw anywhere (doesn't mean there isn't one, just that I can't find anything) All fuses good I've also been having an issue for over 2years with a drastic loss of power when on the highway. The car won't go more than 90km/hr, even in 6th gear. I used to keep it in 5th for maximum torque. Replaced turbo TWICE, did EGR valves, replaced clutch, transmission ok, and no error codes. Please help me figure this out! I've spent over $3,000 fixing this car in the past 1.5 years alone, and I'm not putting any more money into guesswork. If I can't figure this out, I have to get rid of the car. I'd like to keep it, but I'm out of ideas on what to check or do to figure out what's going on. **Photo from Evilution