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Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and have been learning lots from the forum. I just inherited a 450 CDI and it is due for an oil change. I have a pump on order and have been looking into appropriate oils. This thread in particular has been very helpful: However I have one question I am hoping for some clarification on. It appears that people like the Rotella T6 oil, and it appears that Shell is also making Motomaster brand oils, however I am not sure which is appropriate for the 450. Canadian Tire lists both a regular full synthetic which meets MB spec 229.3 and 229.5, but has a statement about gasoline engines on the back: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-5w40-synthetic-engine-oil-5-l-0288720p.html#plp And a diesel-specific full synthetic which does not: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-5w40-synthetic-diesel-engine-oil-5-l-0287941p.html#plp My instinct tells me that the regular full synthetic that states the MB spec is the correct oil - can anyone confirm? Thanks in advance.

Help i am new to smarts and have an issue well several. I had an incident where my engine slid on me and I broke. Line on near the oil filler cap and have no idea what it is. it is black vinyl with a quick connect that runs across the top of the engine. I am hoping.i can attach a new quick connect or clamp the line on. When it broke I heard a hiss of air escaping . thanks

So the work on my wee beastie has begun. Got all the pieces I could find put back onto the car. Replaced the battery. Cleaned corrosion from the cables using some liquid spray thingy from the oil cupboard. Probably Penetrating Oil LOL. Didn't have any carb cleaner or battery cleaner handy. The corrosion colony on the positive terminal was advanced enough to apply for citizenship. Marveled at the female 110 outlet stowed in the battery compartment. Female. As in, the thing you plug your equipment into. Does this thing have an inverter on it? Looks like a factory thing (??). Unlike the other wiring added on the other side of the battery compartment which looks like a reasonably-well done custom mod. Replaced the key battery. Figured out how to mate the key back to the car (sort of; it seems I have to repeat the procedure every day. That will get old quickly, but sort of acts like an additional anti-theft device, so maybe I can convince myself it's a good thing). Started it. Yes. She started. Sitting 4 years with diesel at 3/4 tank, and she started. She didn't run long. She bubbled and glurbled and stumbled and sputtered and stuttered. A few seconds in a belt started to whine; a short while later she surrendered and stalled. No start since; occasional single-pop ignition, not enough to get her going. Recharged battery. :: hangs head in shame :: Two wrenches on console; presumably oil change indicator or the rough equivalent of a check engine light? OBD-II indicates two codes; I can't figure out how to get my reader to show me the second one. Seriously. Programming and using computers since age 14 and I can't find a "Next" button or an arrow key that behaves in an expected manner. Darn kids and their toys. Get off my lawn. Throws P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Presssure Too Low). Presume bad fuel and/or clogged fuel filter. Certainly these need doing anyway, along with the oil and its filter. Speaking of filters, the air filter is half the size of the engine. My friends will no doubt soon tire of my SmartCar stories. I don't care. Found the radio code hand-written in the warranty booklet; unlocked the radio and programmed in four stations to the four buttons.However, Button 1 is also "Scan", so when I press 1 now I get the station I asked for... briefly. LOL Haven't figured out how to get past that. An owner's manual might be helpful. Went looking for owner's manual online. Lots of links teasing me, dangling a purported owner's manual on the other end; but, alas, even including the links from this site; only one downloads a PDF, and my PDF reader can't open it (???). So I'm flying blinder than usual until I can resolve that issue. Yes, computer geek can't find or open a PDF file. Maybe I should retire and garden for a living or something. There's a very nicely done on/off switch which upon closer inspection appears to be mod work; bottom of console/dash, driver's side, near center. It also, upon closer inspection, appears to be popped out of its socket. But it looked nice until that happened. Right side has what appears to be a control knob for... an extra air conditioner? It has a snowflake on it. Can't wait to find out what that's all about, if it works, etc. Filled all the tires back to one pound shy of the indicated pressure (51 PSI; pushed hand compressor to 51 with a one-pound drop after compressor stops). If nothing else I figure it will make it easier to push her around while I wait patiently; oh, so patiently, to get her started. After exuberantly announcing to my wife that she started, ran briefly, and then died, with graphic descriptions and lots of hand motioning, her response was: "You smell like diesel." I have a great support structure over here. Me, Myself, and I (thank goodness for the fourth member of the cheering squad: Ego). Next steps: Purchase: 1/2" drive Torque Wrench 1/2" drive 27mm socket 1-gallon Rotella T6 Oil (yes, it's 5W40 but I keep seeing proclamations that it runs quieter, which I translate as gentler on the motor #thatsmystoryandimstickingtoit ) 1 Pela PL-6000 Suction Pump (for oil extraction) 3 x 5-gallon Yellow Diesel Fuel Containers (Tank is 3/4 full, holds 33L (8.7 gallons?) so probably has 5.85 gallons in it. 2 Cans for extracted fuel; 1 Can for new fuel. Doubles as serious emergency extra supply for long trips into the Grand Canyon or something. Or if I apply the Forsea refit kit, maybe I could use it to get to Hawaii or something. 32-oz bottle of Diesel Kleen Plus Cetane Boost YesCom 12V 5L Oil Fluid Liquid Diesel Fuel Extractor (don't want to mix diesel and oil in the same pump) Mercedes-Benz Fuel Filter E320 (is that right?) Oil filter for 2005 Smart cdi/Canadian from local Mercedes-Benz dealer (may as well get to know them) 2 x Hockey Puck (to put between the jack/jackstand and the lift point) 2 x JackStands Jack (model to be determined). Can jury rig something out of paper clips and rubber bands until then. Trying to use brick-n-mortar stores, but some of this stuff is coming from Amazon. On the week several hurricanes come a-calling. Yes, I have a wonderful sense of timing. I'm sure delivery times will be juuuuuuust fiiiiiiiine. Actions: Remove Oil (don't forget to jack Front Left so we get it all). Replace Oil Filter (don't forget to jack Back Left and Right so we can swing an axe under there) Add new Oil, 2.7L exactly, not 3.0L. Remove "fuel". Change Fuel Filter. Add Kleen Boost. Add new Fuel. Pray. Start Car. (I'm an optimist.) Please oh please oh please don't make me crack the heads open on this wee beastie. Please please please please please.... Also, I need to find out if there's a way to prime the injectors. Haven't found anything on this yet. Will post separate question for that. - Steve M.

Hi there! This will be my first winter with my 2005 diesel smart car. It's been extremely cold these past few days and my car has not been able to start. I was told that leaving it plugged in for an hour in the morning before work using the block heater would help. I got the car used and unfortunately I don't really know much about cars although I'm eager to learn. There's what I'm assuming is the converter on the left front of the car, I was told the block heater was sold separately and directly from Mercedes-Benz. If anyone could provide some insight on this (ie. pictures of what either would look like?) or provide feedback on how they keep their cars going in the winter it would be much appreciated!! Audrey

Hello all!, I was searching in the site but I found nothing regarding the oil leak I'm having now, any clues about it?, could be the TIK pipe? the lower breather pipe?, please see attached picture for details! Thank you and cheers, Bruno.

Hello guys, 450 petrol (roadster) in deep winter (-20C) here. Couple days back I had an incident.. A minute after start, oil started spilling everywhere. I noticed that only at red light, after 3 kilometers. There was a lot of white smoke coming from all sides of the engine. Opened it up and wow, view is terrifying. So what happened: oil started spilling out from dipstick pipe, getting all around manifold and turbo = a lot of white smoke. Also it seems like oil did somehow get in to burning process, as there was a lot of while-bluish smoke coming from exhaust as well. I lost one liter of fresh oil that day. The engine was serviced recently (a month ago) and upper breather valve was replaced with generic one: original valve was failed (stuck partly open), I could not get whole pipe assembly in time. This is what I replaced it with: While waiting for a friend to tow it away, I immediately checked upper valve and it was operating fine (detach one end from throttle body, blow, then pull with mouth). So it seems to be OK. Couple hours later, when in garage, I checked lower breather pipe (part A1600180112): I found only very little ice in it, not nearly enough to clog up. I cleaned it anyway and assembled it all back... Today it happened again. Noticed it quicker, lost only 0.5 liter of oil... So now I'm lost. Oil is coming from dipstick, because there is pressure buildup and something is blocking it's way out. But why smoke from exhaust? Is oil getting sucked through upper breather valve? Can't really confirm it, but first observation is that the most of smoke from exhaust is only during negative boost pressure (when idling and upper breather valve is open). But the biggest question is: what I missed? Should I also remove and inspect TIK pipe? Or can it be caused somehow by upper breather valve? Something else?