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Hey everyone, I picked up another smart the other day! It's a 2005 passion and was only $250! I plan on using it for parts but I'm curious to fix it as well haha. The previous owner said it died on him a few times and was lacking power so he wanted to part ways with it. I drove it home 40km and it ran/shifted well but noticed it lacked any power in 5th and 6th gear with 90kph being all it had with the foot to the floor. It revs over 3000rpm so it isn't limp. I scanned for codes and there were none. I repaired the sam cracked solder joints, fixed the intercooler, deleted the egr, lubed/tested the wastegate, checked hoses for obvious boost leaks, inspected the turbo and checked for play. The turbo spools nicely and doesn't make any abnormal noises. The cars only making 2-3psi of boost at this time. Anyone have some insight on what could be causing the low boost pressure? Thank you.

Hello I'm parting out my 2005 smart fortwo cdi. One of the valves got damaged from the rocker and it isn't worth fixing anymore. Besides that everything else worked great. 2 of 3 injectors were recently rebuilt. New crank sensor. New fuel regulator. High pressure pump still cranks at 379 bar. Alternator and starter both work great. Summer tires on alloys and winter tires on steelies. Turbo, muffler. Let me know what you need and we can work something out! Everything is available still!

Its been some time but its been worth it. I've been able to achieve stable boosts above 20psi on the 2005 and 2006 CDI. Both cars do not have any after market items, except the 2006 with a 2" lift kit and larger tires. The tune I've been working on changes the boost pressure sensor voltage and that allows us to pass the 18.1psi limit. The turbo has been pushed and registered 22.6psi, how accurate that is on a digital reading? Time to install a boost gauge. The rest of the tune has produced considerable gains in all rages and currently verifying fuel mileage. Next step is adjusting the shift patterns and times. Looking forward to comments and anyone else with know issues I should consider or keep an eye out for.

Hello, im running my own tuning company, and im just curious how people tune those 700CC Turbos (2006 Mod) if doing software what tuning tools?

Hello, im running my own tuning company, and im just curious how people tune those 700CC Turbos (2006 Mod) if doing software what tuning tools?

Help i am new to smarts and have an issue well several. I had an incident where my engine slid on me and I broke. Line on near the oil filler cap and have no idea what it is. it is black vinyl with a quick connect that runs across the top of the engine. I am hoping.i can attach a new quick connect or clamp the line on. When it broke I heard a hiss of air escaping . thanks

Hey guys does anyone know where i can buy an upgraded wastegate (i.e a better than stock one) actuator for my euro4 smart 451 turbo non brabus. Im looking to buy a pipercross filter , turbosmart boost control, some NGK iridium laser ILKR7B8 (colder plugs)and a re map but need help on the wastegate actuator. I could see figures of up to 133hp looking around 0.6-1.0 boost with this setup . any help and opinion is welcome.

Hello all!, I was searching in the site but I found nothing regarding the oil leak I'm having now, any clues about it?, could be the TIK pipe? the lower breather pipe?, please see attached picture for details! Thank you and cheers, Bruno.

Hey Folks, So I finally broke down and decided to have the turbo looked at in my 450 by and independent garage. A short recap. Last summer, from one day to another I lost boost in the car. The question was always, was it a lack of boost or Limp Home mode? The car didn't throw a code or CEL so I started digging. 1. the hose from the EGR to the turbo - It happened to me before when I repaired the intercooler so I reinstall the pipe. - no change 2. EGR is stuck - I remove and check it. I had put a blocker plate last year - Nope slides perfectly 3. intake pressure sensor mounted near the dipstick - Nope 4. intake pressure sensor mounted on the intercooler - Nope in tight. 5. limp home mode. - disconnect the battery for 10 minutes - Still no power 6. leaky waste gate pressure hose (the short one that goes from the turbo high side barb to the actuator head) - Looks good 7. Struck waste gate - Lubed and loosen but seemed OK. I lengthened the arm to see if it was not sitting well - Nope 8, Bad Intercooler - I changed out the Intercooler with a used one but in good condition and pressure tested. 9. Bad turbo - I removed the intake and it looked clean with no broken fins or free play 10. Pressure test with a rubber clip and a plastic plumbing fitting that I connected a fitting to connect to my compressor. Block off the Intake to the motor with a plastic sheet and see if it holds boost. - No leaks. Finally I brought it to a independent garage I found who deals almost exclusively in Smarts. He found the problem in no time with a more elaborate code reader. His code reader showed a problem with the high pressure pump. ** It was the connector to the high pressure fuel pump. ** Somehow the connector was inserted but not clipped in to the end. When he pulled it came off in his hand! He plugged it back in and the car ran like it was new. $60 and it was fixed! After all of the hours I spent trying to figure it out. I highly recommend this garage if you're in the Montreal area and need service for your car. If, like me, you cannot stand bringing your car to the Stealership where you get robbed blind. The owner is Norman Comeau 200 BOUL LAURIER, McMasterville, QC J3G 1P8 He is very knowledgeable and showed me exactly the issue without a big production. I love my 450 and people ask me often if they should consider one. I always have to say that they are great if you know how to fix them because I have never found a garage that knew anything about them. Also, as some may recall my experience with the dealer borders on litigation. I can now recommend the car with the knowledge that someone can have it serviced at a reasonable price by competent mechanic.

Hello all! My Smart sat idle in my garage for about a year and a half, until i could find a proper electrician to fix my broken SAM unit. After, finally, i 've brought it back home i noticed that the gearbox often fails to automatically up-shift and have to "help" it manually. When it fails to shift, i notice that the engine is revving but seems it needs a few more RPMs to shift. Also when trying to rev it out of gear, it only reaches ~3200 RPM, and the accelerator pedal is "dead" in the upper half. It is true that i don't quite remember how much RPMs i was getting about a year ago before the electrical problems. So, my questions are as follows: 1. How much RPMs do your CDIs get when revved while stationary (and in neutral, of course) ? 2. Is it more likely to be a gearbox issue or engine one? I must mention that the engine seems to run as smooth as ever with no black smoke or rough starts. Also the gearbox works perfectly in manual mode. LE: Sorry if/for posting in the wrong subcategory. Only now i've observed it's an area for mdifications

Hi! it's my turn to put some chinese ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/252257907375?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ) core into it... I replaced the intercooler, but the turbo still whines weirdly, the car is not quite as fast ( I have eddy's flashing mine) and the fuel consumption is around 5l/100km... let's see if this is the only problem left to fix after my disastrous cross-Canada trip...

hi everyone, I have a 05 450 Smart cabrio gasser... I didnt see where I could post for gasser so i went with diesel hoping someone could help.. I realize not many 450 gas cars made it to the states let alone Canada, so Im a bit out..orphaned.. ok, my cabrio 450 has 50k miles on it, self serviced and maintained, while driving home last fall about a mile from home it suddenly lost power and started blowing blue smoke out the tail pipe and oil all over the rear of the car, i limped it carefully the last 1/2 mile and shutting down I had oil coming out of the exhaust, and all over the rear. The dipstick reads low now, and after disassembly of the intake from the turbo up to intercooler i found oil right to the manifold, intercooler, and into the exhaust. I did remove the turbo, and there seem to be no play in the turbine or shaft , i know I will have to replace the plugs (all 6) and clean everything up. thats a given... I have read where turbo failure is common with 450 diesels, but what about the gas models? it did have the whine just before it failed which makes me think turbo seals, but how do I check it? I am a highly qualified mechanic, but this has me stumped. I have new plugs on order and will finish disassembly of the turbo tomorrow. it is a garrett gt12, anything else i should check? I dont want to get this together and find something else filed.. email me directly if you have any ideas, insights or questions. steve george scg13803@yahoo.com

I recently did the turbo and intercooler on my '06 fortwo. Dealer wanted $5,000 for both including parts. This is ridiculous.Turbo, exhaust manifold mounted and intercooler all ready to install was $1,500. I needed to buy some parts additionally.You will need an exhaust manifold gasket, the high and low pressure oil line gaskets from turbo and return exhaust line gaskets from turbo to EGR valve. They were another $65.You will also need the blue thread-lock and anti-seize compound. I coated almost every bolt with anti seize, except for a few that were obvious (you could see the thread-lock on bolts).No easy job and not for the weekend warrior. But if you have some know how and some patients, it can be done quite easily and at a serious savings to a dealership doing it.You must remove the rear skirting from car (three center bolts and two side bolts located at the end of the door at bottom). There are 3 sliding clips for each side of the skirt. They pull backwards (rear of car) to come off and take a bit of tugging. DO NOT pull straight off. They'll snap and it seems smart Canada cannot get them here. I did find them online from a UK supplier tho, if needed. Once off you need to remove the aluminum bumper. Looks like a steel beam. Its' not. That's our bumper. Once all that is off you can easily see the exhaust manifold and the turbo. Remove the oil lines. There are 2 of them. One high pressure one low. The high pressure line is a banjo bolt with a copper washer. You should be able to re-use the copper washer if this is first time removal. Remove the exhaust return manifold from turbo and from EGR valve. This is a shiny small steel tube that returns from the turbo to the EGR. Remove from EGR side and then take it off completely once the manifold and turbo are out. Remove the air intake pipe and the PCV valve from pipe. Remove the manifold bolts (take it easy as they are very rare in Canada according to my German auto parts supplier). Once they're off, the turbo and manifold will fall out easily. When you get the new assembly, you may need to remove some other minor components and attach to new assembly.Intercooler requires the EGR valve to be removed. There are 3 bolts holding it on and these are the ones with thread lock. Remove all the duct work. Unclip the wires. Once its' out, look inside. If both sides are not nice and open, you may want to replace the EGR valve. $400 for a new one. Or do what I did. Soak it overnight in varsol to loosen the varnish and carbon. Gently use a wire brush (baby bottle style) to clean out the inside of valve. It's not a cure but it did make a huge difference for me. It should last another 200000K like the first time. Once the EGR is out you can disconnect the fan by removing the wire clip and then it's 3 clips holding the fan in. Only the top clip needs to unclipped. Once out the bottom pulls out. Now the fun. You must stick a screwdriver into the 4 slots on the side of intercooler (at top and bottom) and gently pry the metal clips on the intercooler open to remove it. It's a tight fit to get it out even with everything out of the way. Top out first, then lift bottom out. When you re-install the intercooler you must line up the bottom clips first while holding the cooler above the clips to ensure it's lined up. If you think it's lined up, place bottom in first then top and snap it in.To re-install the turbo & manifold just reverse all the above process ending the skirt.It saved me a ton of money and it took about 10 man hours to do all it from beginning to end, and as I've stated before I'm no mechanic. I'm sure knowing what I know now, could be done in about 6 or 7 hours. And I always say 2 people are better than one. Especially once frustration sets in.I hope this helps someone. If anyone has any better ways or ideas, or would like to know more about this please let me know.