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Showing results for tags '450'.
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Hello everyone, Southwestern Ontario here. I’d love to share my 2006 W450 CDI Passion Cabrio project that I lifted 2” and put on 31” all terrains with you but I can’t seem to even get one single iPhone photo to upload to this post. If anyone could chime in on how to upload photos it would be much appreciated. Looking forward to sharing the enjoyment of these little cars with you all.
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Hello all, After a few days of working on things, I have written a guide for getting you started with the KWP2000+ and the Smart 450 CDI. This guide includes the (often hard to find) software thats needed, setup of the software and hardware, and instructions on how to read your stock tune file and write a new tune file to it. The attachment includes the guide and software. Please let me know if you have anything to add or any questions. Big thanks to @stickman007 for his assistance with the software and troubleshooting! KWP2000 Smart CDI Edition.zip -
I have a Smart 450 2007 with 20000k on the clock, I have had it stored for a couple of years and went to it a couple of weeks ago, connected the battery and it started first time. I noticed it was a bit smokey so I purchased the fuel treatment and all was good until now, It has now lost power and its creating smoke even at slow revs, I have removed and cleaned the EGR valve and its now sparkling once reassembled it still smokes... any thoughts would be useful.. thanks in advance -
I have a Smart 450 2007 with 20000k on the clock, I have had it stored for a couple of years and went to it a couple of weeks ago, connected the battery and it started first time. I noticed it was a bit smokey so I purchased the fuel treatment and all was good until now, It has now lost power and its creating smoke even at slow revs, I have removed and cleaned the EGR valve and its now sparkling once reassembled it still smokes... any thoughts would be useful.. thanks in advance
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I'm following Willys advice to post my woes in the relevant Forum. I have a 2005 Smart ForTwo that I bought new. It has about 85K on the dial. Last week on the way to the hardware store I did a too-quick right turn. The car went about 100 feet and stopped, still running. I could turn it off and restart it. It would not go into forward or reverse. There was a very faint clunking noise/vibration when I tried. Each time that I tried to put it into gear I got three horizontal, dashed lines on the gearshift indicator display. I was about 300 yards away from my regular mechanic's garage (right beside the hardware store!). I called the CAA to get it towed to the shop. 45 minutes later the tow-truck arrived, the driver started it, put it into gear and forward it went. I drove to the shop with the tow-truck following behind. The shop read the codes and told me there was some kind of blockage in the transmission. It sounded to me like the car was pooched, so I carefully dove it home, without incident. I cancelled the liability insurance, but thought I should know what was wrong with it before putting it up for sale. I did a google search, found you guys, became a member after several abortive attempts to authenticate my email, I introduced myself, was warmly welcomed and given a gentile nudge in the right direction (I hope). I looked through the archives here, paid my annual fee to evolution.co.uk, successfully authenticated my email there and now hope for the best. I believe that, in a way not surprisingly, the solution is that when in doubt, reboot. I will see if my usual grease monkeys have an MB Star to reintroduce the transmission to the car so that it can once again be a "smart" car and let you know how it turns out. The MB Star device is costly. Is it something that I will need down the road? I had wanted this to be my forever car, and it was doing pretty well on that score.
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Good morning, I am writing to you about a problem with the turbine, I have a smart 450 diesel CDI with 240,000 km from 2000. Since I bought it used (with 170,000 km) the turbine has always whistled a bit and has always been dirty, probably due to blow-by. A month ago, within a few days, the classic whistling of the turbine began to stop being heard, the smoke increased when accelerating and the car lost a lot of power (especially when going uphill). So I did the following: - coreassy replacement, with complete cleaning of the turbine and compressor scrolls (the new turbine runs very well by hand) - drained the oil before reconnecting the delivery (see photo) - oiled the turbine before mounting it - deep cleaning of the turbine oil delivery and drain pipes - check that the oil drain was not clogged (I let the oil drip with a funnel) - oil and oil filter replacement (synthetic 5W-40 oil) - disassembly of the camshaft cover and cleaning of the blow-by breather cover (it was not clogged, just dirty) - once mounted, I checked that oil was coming out of the turbine (photo with cold engine at 2 degrees celsius and idling) - visually checked the hoses and intercooler (didn't see any cracks or crevices) - reconnected the wastegete piston with preload (this turbine does not have variable geometry) Also I noticed that the old turbine had no play and the shaft turned really well so maybe it just didn't go? Now to make some tests I left the blow-by pipe disconnected and closed the hole upstream of the turbine. I have done about 300 km and I have noticed: - black oil actually comes out of the blow-by pipe, which I think was the one that dirty the whole turbine. It seems to me that there is also some water vapor, but the car does not consume water. - the car no longer produces black smoke when accelerating The problem remains that I don't hear the whistle of the turbine and the car doesn't have the power it had before (it goes a little more, but not much). I add that I have never seen any motor light on the dash, neither before nor after the coreassy replacement. Does anyone have any idea what I can check? Thanks a lot to everyone! PHOTO OLD TURBINE OIL BLEEDING PHOTO TEST NEW TURBINE OIL DISCHARGE
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Hello I'm parting out my 2005 smart fortwo cdi. One of the valves got damaged from the rocker and it isn't worth fixing anymore. Besides that everything else worked great. 2 of 3 injectors were recently rebuilt. New crank sensor. New fuel regulator. High pressure pump still cranks at 379 bar. Alternator and starter both work great. Summer tires on alloys and winter tires on steelies. Turbo, muffler. Let me know what you need and we can work something out! Everything is available still! -
I need right endgate latch fpr my 2006 smart 450 coupe Could pick it up Calgary area or Victoria area, otherwise, mail, ship or...
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The Dorkmobile is at it again. When the boy drives it he says it gives a little bump then loses power and had a hard time maintaining 85 Km/h. Rarely gives a CEL. When it finally did, it came up with P2038. (Reductant injection air pressure sensor- range/performance problem) Everything I can look up referred to a DEF injector, which we all know it does not have. I had parts on hand so I replaced the Fuel Pressure sensor and the MAP sensor. Still same issue. The only thing I can think of, is it may need a new muffler. There is an exhaust leak at the bottom seam and a significant amount is escaping out not far from the exhaust nozzle. I went to a custom exhaust shop and he said he can fab a system with just a resonator for less than half the price of an OEM muffler but he had an 03 and never had that issue when his exhaust was leaking. I am at a loss. No idea where to go from here. Ideas?
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FOR SALE BY OWNER: 2005 450 Smart ForTwo Passion Cabrio, 77k miles, located in Los Angeles. VIN WME4504321J221355 This is the original European Smart model—manufactured in France; G&K US conversion with all required/original DOT/CA modifications intact. Original owner since 2007. Red with silver Tridion body. Lovingly cared for, garaged, regular mechanic servicing; all mechanics records available. Removable seat raisers installed under driver’s seat to suit a petite driver. Convertible Passion model; rear plastic window recently updated. Minor cracks in rear and back fender plastic. Features: .7 liter, 3 cylinder Mercedes turbo-charged engine California mileage ~32–35 mpg (better mileage is possible in locales with higher octane gas) 6-speed clutchless automatic transmission, with choice of manual mode. Convertible top in excellent condition 33 liter gas tank Security drawer under driver’s seat Am/fm radio and CD player with aux jack to accept Bluetooth and accessories California car with no road salt or similar damage. Includes a car cover, car manual, snow chains. Helluva fun car to drive. Selling because it won’t pass California smog check, likely due to an ECU issue my mechanic can’t solve, and stalls randomly (mechanic also has no ideas about this ) $5,000 OR MAKE ME AN OFFER I CAN'T REFUSE
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What a week! I hit a pothole on monday with dad as a passenger in my 2006 grandstyle and it caused an airbag to go off, the vehicle shut off and the hazards came on. Dad and I both got whiplash and whatever else. But the worst part is the insurance is going to write off the car! How do I approach it with the adjuster? It's a cabrio, it had a new engine put in around 140,000 km. And is currently around 230,000km. I change the oil every 3-4000km. It purs like a kitten. What would be a fair adjuster price. We know they're going to low ball it. Is $7,000 out of the question? We got new tires and breaks on it in the summer. What a shame! Any input is appreciated in dealing with adjusters or just condolences lol.
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Hi ! Story goes that the car doors will not lock when pressing the lock button on the key remote. I do hear the locking mechanisms closing in the 2 doors and the trunk panel, but they all unlock immediately after. Pressing the unlock does de-activate the immobiliser so i can still drive the car. I am essentially looking for ideas as my local Smart mechanic has already spent many hours and replaced a few components without success to resolve this issue. I read most if not all threads on the topic in this forum, but did not get any luck so far. The Fusebox/SAM was replaced a few days ago (with a second-hand unit, in an attempt to resolve the issue) including reprogramming my 2 key/remotes. The passenger-side door was replaced (by a used one) about 6 months ago and the driver-side latch mechanism was also replaced a few days ago. The trunk panel was dismantled, all wires are sound. All doors and trunk latches work well. All doors close well and tight (no slack, well adjusted). The connector at the base of the battery was also replaced a few days ago (was seized). I doubt there is any link to it, but the front suspension coils were replaced last week (reason it went into the shop) so the front bumper panel was removed / re-installed. Any electrical wires / contacts to should check in that area (aside from the door connectors) ? The trunk window struts were also replaced last week. I am no car expert and would dearly need some help Many thanks and happy holidays ! Alacazam.
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I bought a 450 06 CDI with no engine. The engine is for a 2010 451. I have the entire 451 drive train in parts, Injection nozzle A6600700387, Injection pump A6600700101, Vacuum tank A9012580003, Fuel distributor A6600700295, water pump housing A6602340039, water pump, Intake bridge A660900137, Vacuum pump A6602300365, Glow time control unit A4515450432, and the 450 transmission which does not have bolts to attach to the engine either . When buying them I got none of the bolts screws and fasteners. The Mercedes dealership has ghosted me on several occasions even though they can order most and know the size of the ones they cant. They cannot order from Canada and Canada won't sell to me either. The place I bought the parts can't help me either. Does anyone know the part numbers and amounts for those fasteners? Also a manual in English not German would be nice as well haha. After I get the fasteners I can build and drive the smart, it's titled registered and everything. A Canadian manual would be AMAZING to get my hands on. I can't even decipher the cylinder head torque order of spec in the German manual. Please and thank you for your help. -
Hello,(Smart 450 fortwo - 1999 - gasoline)My Smart car had a short due to water damage. The short was in de secondary fuse-boxe (F2) underneath the drivers seat. After the repair, there was no communication with the MME (Meg motor electronics control unit/ECU)("1 line on the speedo", a CAN bus fault )After replacing the MME/ECU (and transfer the EEPROM) the CAN bus fault was gone.But now:The engine won't start. (Nor crank)Car keeps beeping.The following lights are on: Engine, Ale30 (Oil) & Charge indivator (battery).The screen says "N". When turning the key, it flickers "0" and than goes to the "N".I have a ICarsoft Multi-system Car Diagnostic Tool MB V2.0I can see (and read) the following modules: MME - Meg motor electronics control unit ABS - ABS control module RS - Restraint systems controller IC - Instrument cluster A1 SZ - SAM-ZEE control unit From the MME/ECU can i read the moduel info and data, but i can't read any faults nor delete them.In the attachments: A readout with a ICarsoft of all the data it can see.Has anyone an idea or tips?Thanks in advanceAndries Smart 450 1999 gasoline readout data.pdf Old fault codes history.pdf
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Hi All! Just purchased my wheels before xmas, and this among other queries has helped me with a couple of fixes so far! Got 65,000 miles on the clock, service record last shows a service in 2015 at 55,000. 1 spanner service symbol showing, with a number of 511, which is gradually rising? is this the number of 'hours' past the last service? Local Merc dealer has a service package offer available, which sounds interesting, as payments are monthly and can include two services. Not sure my regular mechanic would relish working on this, or has worked on any before. So, I'd expect to be having to pay more than normal for a service anyway. So, tempted on this, as hopefully they'll point out any issues I should be aware of before the MOT is due in March. 1st issue I had to deal with..... The drivers door handle started playing up. Not opening... and then occasionally doing so. I had to resort to buying a spare handle & cable, and drilling the handle off the door as even with the magic hook I wasn't able to trigger the door opening. Turns out there is a lot of gunk on the lock too, and the issue was the white plastic retaining clip for cable was a little broken and had become partially detached. Cleaned the locking/catch mechanism out, and fitted replacement handle. Door closes and opens fine, just needs a little work on tighening the hinges or adjust the catch, as the door may have dropped a little and is not closing cleanly. Issues to tackle: Interior courtesy light.... there does not appear to be power going to this? Checked fuses... Light Button..... maybe related to above. It was detached when I bought it, and the corresponding plug didn't fit very well, requiring a slight adjustment. Now, the light switch is always lit when the lights are on, and the 'switch' part of it does nothing. Condensation on interior of headlights. Think that may need me to gird my loins on.... :/ Roof needs de-greening. Far too much moss/mould/lichen. I've got some protex clean and protect, just need a milder day to do it. Rear screen has a couple of holes. so maybe considering a replacement, otherwise got some good tape that seems to be working to keep the rain out.
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Hello I'm in search of the foam floor panel that covers the battery compartment for my 2006 Fortwo it was not in the car when when I got it and dealer must have lost it anyway if you have one I would be interested Thank you Traci . -
I own a 2005 smart diesel with starting issues. Looking for a good mechanic to help me sort out my issues with the car. I am located in the Lunenburg NS area. Thanks. -
Help i am new to smarts and have an issue well several. I had an incident where my engine slid on me and I broke. Line on near the oil filler cap and have no idea what it is. it is black vinyl with a quick connect that runs across the top of the engine. I am hoping.i can attach a new quick connect or clamp the line on. When it broke I heard a hiss of air escaping . thanks
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Hello Members, The mechanic diagosed that the Smart has failed bearings in the rear. He showed me how the wheels were noisy and had a play while on the hoist. They quoted $700 with parts and labor. Considering the cost involved and suggestions from a member in this forum, I have decided to undertake this project myself. I am completely naive to repairing a car. But I believe you members will guide me through this. Step 1 is to procure the wheel bearing hub assembly. Several eBay sellers have it for approx CAD 120 including shipping. The mechanic had the same part for CAD 230. Do you guys know any supplier in GTA who has better deals. Am trying to squeeze in as much as possible. I will post the progress and seek more help along this project. Cheers! -
Hello all, Is there any difference in the floor pan between a 2005 SMART (450) and new models? I'm looking to get Weather Tech mats but they do not have them for the 2005, 2006 model years. Any insight would be appreciated. See link for reference https://www.weathertech.ca/en/smart/2018/fortwo/floorliner-digitalfit/ Thanks, Corey Mac -
Hi. I have read many posts on many forums but can’t find an answer to my problem. The car is 2006 450 700cc Passion. The car was working fine then without warning we had the following issue.... Within 5 mins drive the ESP light comes on and a complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 30 seconds / on - ESP light is off, engine starts hesitantly but won’t tick over. Within 500m the ESP light comes on and complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 10 mins / on - Everything runs fine for 4-5mins then ESP light comes on etc... From cold the car will sit still and run all day long - the engine will rev freely, the fan(s) cut in and out, there is no overheat and no illuminated lights. But go for a drive and within 5 mins.... ESP light etc. In no particular order, I have replaced.... Engine loom, alternator, starter, battery, clutch fork, clutch actuator, reluctor rings, ABS sensors, crank sensor, transmission speed sensor, transmission angle sensor, knock sensor, throttle body, map sensor, inlet temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, exhaust, both lambda sensors, timing kit (chain, sprockets, guides, tensioner), oil pump kit (chain, tensioner, sprockets), head gasket, There are no blown fuses in the SAM module and no apparent water damage. The clutch and gearbox will happily learn their places, drag points, fork positions etc. No gearbox lines (horizontal or vertical) on dashboard. Codes from OBD: C1340 which says “ECU cannot execute torque request” 53301 “unknown” P2056 “Actual position Of rotation angle sensor; plausibility” These codes will reset and only come back after the ESP light has illuminated. The alternator is a genuine Smart alternator - the part number matches the cars’ requirement on WIS. Can anybody point me in any direction I have not tried already.... Please? -
Hello, Our 2006 Smart Fortwo Convertible needs a new drivers seat. It's a 450 CDI. An exact replacement seat is pretty hard to find. Anyone know what model year of seats are interchangeable? Regards, Martin
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Hi, I am having a weird problem with my 450 cdi. We bought the car and everything was fine for couple of days. Then all of a sudden when I started the car, the little triangle shaped light (esp one) was on, and when I tried to move it started shaking and turned off. Tried to turn it on for a couple of times in a row, the same thing happened. Fourth or fifth time I started it, I managed to get it rolling, but light was still on. Gear changing was normal. When I stopped and let it rest, the light went off and everything was great for a week. Today when I started the car in the morning the light was again on, and car was acting strange again. Couple of hours later I tried to start the car and light was off. Interensting thing is that when the car start without the light, it drives great, I can easily get it to 100+kph without light turning on. What can be the problem? Any ideas? Maybe bad battery?
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Please first let me apologize for not know for sure where this belongs. If anyone can move it or tell me where to repost it I'll gladly do so. I just had the summer tires and rims stolen from my yard and I strongly suspect it was a to-order job The tires were contis mounted on passion alloy rims with Ride-on TPS fluid in them, an orange slime looking material. No tire shop will touch them because of the fluid, and only smart cars can use those rims. So either the theives are very very stupid or they were going after me because they knew I had a smart car and they had an order for tires. I am in Saskatoon. The car these are destined for could be anywhere from davidson to prince albert. So while they're rare here, especailly the 450 models, it's still a huge market if it's to order parts! If you know of anything I can share with the police please PM me. I'll be keeping this open in a browser window for the next couple of weeks. Thank you. It's a terribly insecure feeling to know someone's got their sights on your baby.
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I've been having a lot of problems with my '06 450 CDI Passion. The battery light keeps coming on after the engine has been idling for about 10 seconds, and never goes off again. I took it for servicing, and was told that the aftermarket stereo & amp were causing a drain - not true, because I've removed both from the car. Here are some more details: I'm on my THIRD alternator in 3 years (replaced 1 year ago, car has only been driveable for 3 months since!!) so I doubt it's the alternator Brand new Smart battery installed 3 weeks ago, driven once since (back from mechanic, battery light came on about 15 min into my trip home) The only issue I can see with the battery is that the bolt for the bracket that holds it down has been sheared off (see red box in photo), so the battery slides around a fair bit, and the bolt hole is very rusty (I wire brushed it). Also, the ground connection to the frame is rusty as well (see green box in photo), and I cannot remove the washer, so I'm not convinced that the ground has proper contact with the frame. No error codes Used multimeter, battery puts out about 13V (I think? I don't know much about electrical stuff) Last week when testing the battery with the multimeter, I turned the car off. Then tried to start again, and got the immobilizer key on dash. Pulled key, locked/unlocked doors, tried to start, got the immobilizer again. Repeat x3 before giving up. 2 days ago, I brought my portable power pack and jump-started the Smart, started fine, no battery light. Let it idle for 5 minutes before unhooking the jump cables. Battery light came on within 10 seconds of removing the jump cables. I can't find a parasitic draw anywhere (doesn't mean there isn't one, just that I can't find anything) All fuses good I've also been having an issue for over 2years with a drastic loss of power when on the highway. The car won't go more than 90km/hr, even in 6th gear. I used to keep it in 5th for maximum torque. Replaced turbo TWICE, did EGR valves, replaced clutch, transmission ok, and no error codes. Please help me figure this out! I've spent over $3,000 fixing this car in the past 1.5 years alone, and I'm not putting any more money into guesswork. If I can't figure this out, I have to get rid of the car. I'd like to keep it, but I'm out of ideas on what to check or do to figure out what's going on. **Photo from Evilution
