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Hi All. My first post! I bought a 2003 Bluewave Roadster from a local garage who was retiring and it was just sat in the car park, flat tires, dead battery, non runner and covered in leaves. Engine light on and 3lines on the speedo…..I hear you cry why! …..It was cheaper than my cars service bill and cute so I bought it. new brake light bulb fixed the 3lines….but my luck ran out there. (Thanks to evilution for all the info so far) A new battery wouldn’t hold charge overnight. I did an amp test and it was pulling 2.8amps and that didn’t change after completely removing the Sam and Ecu. so what’s still live after Sam is removed and any tips on where to look first? Otherwise I entering into the biggest puzzle. This must have happened to someone else….alternator is my next check. thanks all. Aaron.

Get ready for this story; 2005 450 my son took the car to work on the 31st. Stoped on the highway for some diesel and went to work. When he went to leave and go to his girlfriend house the car would only crank and not start. He called me because the battery couldn’t turn it any more, I had him leave the keys in it and grabbed my boat battery to go boost it. Boat battery would only crank it still. I could hear the low pressure pump working, I figured to try boosting directly off the truck. Came to life no problem. took it home and figured it has been weak in the winter so it’s probably time for a new battery. Went and picked up a new battery and installed. Plugged it in over night and came out the next morning and it was hard to start but it did start. son took it to his girlfriends place overnight and on the way there (after 45km driving) it lost power and CEL came on. He pulled over, turned it off and tried to turn it back on. Would only crank. After 15 minutes it started and he made it to his destination. The next morning the g/f father checked the code and it came up low fuel pressure. They tried to start it and it would only crank. They plugged it in again (plugging in I mean the cord on front) and I drove there to recover it. After 3 hours plugged in it still would only crank. I used a HD battery they had and it started. I brought it home and started working from easiest up, I changed the fuel filter, same issue, low pressure pump is working, high pressure CP1 was rebuilt about a year ago. it’s working now but it takes approx 5 seconds of cranking before it will start. I drove it to work (105 km) and turned it off. Turned it back on and it still took 5 seconds of cranking. It almost timed out but did start. mom down to thinking it may be the fuel pressure sensor or possibly glow plugs (changed about a year ago). Looking forward to everyone’s ideas and suggestions.

Hi everyone, I am new on this forum. Started to search the internet after having problems with my 2013 ED. I started to work in an other city beginning this year, at 50 km distance. Just too far away to do the out en return on one charge in winter with lights, heating and wipers on. So I used my Toyota Prius instead and put my Smart away in my garage, having 80% SOC. Last week I wanted to take it out but the 12V battery was flat. Connected another 12V battery with jump leads and the the dasboard lights came on but with an error that the engine was out. No SOC reading either. Had the LV battery charging overnight with 2 amp and the next that reading 12,6 Volt. But still no change in error massages on the dash. I had it transported to the Smart Center at MB. They called me few days later with there "diagnosis" that the 12V batt was dead, and that the HV battery was dead also! The dealer contacted with MB and concluded that replacement would cost me € 22.500 incl. taxes!!! I bought the ED at age of 2 year for € 17.500. Looking at the diy batterytester on this site, but testing alone would not help me out. My guess is that if the battery cells are slowly loosing there charge over time, one of them falls below a safety level and the software shuts down the entire battery. Maybe if the "bad" cell could be charged separate, or the entire HV battery could be charged bypassing the software ( having the relay in the battery close via a command on the CAN bus?) there is a possibility of recuperating the battery. You don't throw your laptop battery away on the first occasion it is discharged .... Hope you come up with some ideas, at least interesting to discuss. Albert

Does anyone have recommendations for a tricklecharger? I have a 2006 Smart Cabriolet Diesel and it has a battery that is only a couple of years old. The car hasn't had much use with the COVID situation and I've had to get CAA to boost it twice. When they did it most recently, they said the battery was fine and that the issue is non-use. They recommended a BatteryTender 1.7 v (not the .75) left on as long as I wasn't going to be driving it frequently. Does anyone else have experience with trickle charging a Smartie? I think there may be wires and a plug I can connect to the battery to make it easier to quickly connect and disconnect. Thanks, Calum

Hey all, I've got a 2009 451 Smart, and I can't seem to get it to start. I turn the key, and the starter doesn't make a sound. I thought it might be a dead battery, so I hooked up one of those portable jump packs, but no luck. The battery shows about 11.7 volts, which should be more than enough to turn it over. I pulled the starter, and had it tested, and it's perfectly fine. Any suggestions?

I know the process on determining Battery drain (Multimeter, AMP test and pass meter between Battery Neg and Car ground with Battery unplugged from car Ground and test for hire current output) then begin yanking fuses until the drain "magically goes away" Any typical culprits on a Passion with all options except heated seats in a NON rag top configuration I should watch out for? Radio is still stock (yay! This actually sounds like it has a Sub of some type with the Loudness button on, very impressed) I will do some digging as there were antenna (thin wires stuck on but attached to nothing) and a Power line run straight from the battery to nothing (no I'm not kidding, all ends were wrapped off so nothing bad happened) which I've decoupled and removed. Battery drains to 75% in about an hour but recharges AWFULLY quick with a 2A charge.... maybe an hour when it should take a few hours) I can drop an eliminator (Crappy Tire) booster and start it everytime so I'm pretty certain Ground is good.

Hello all, I had the great luck to be away for six weeks, south of the equator Please don't hate me Anyway, after coming back to this -20 ºC and below weather, I was not surprised to see the (still original) battery in my car seemed to be discharged. Lights and radio worked but there was no way the engine would turn. I plugged in a battery charger for about 3 hours, plus an electric heater to make sure temp in the cabin (and battery) were above 0 ºC. After that the car started fine and I drove it for about 30 clicks to make sure it got enough juice to start again later on. All this said, it maybe time to change the battery and I had two questions: 1. Any recommendations on replacement battery (451)? 2. Is there a special procedure to replace the battery? (other than unplug old and plug new [such as radio codes, computer reset or such?])

Hello community... I hope this community is as awesome as the car is :)... We are about to buy a Smart 2015 ED with 30k km on it, but here is the trick, we are from Costa Rica, and, as a any new buyer of an electric car, I'm afraid that the battery can be dead after a couple of years... (yes, I've read that it support up to 4000 cycles of charge, 8 years warranty (it doesnt apply to me), up to 100k km / 400k in the theory)... Murphy can be around the corner as usual. How easy is buy a replacement battery in a retailer? How much does it cost? Does Mercedez sells it on the site if you have the vehicle registered?. We have Mercedez dealers in CR but they dont sell these cars over here. All info to the newbie electric driver is more than welcome (and comments for the sake of my peace of mind :)) Thanks in advance, Adrian B. -noobsmart

HELP!!! I need some sort of guidance anyone had similar: Car had been left about a week, expected battery not to start but it did. Drove 3 miles parked up for an hour then it wouldn’t start. Lights come on dash, radio came on but nothing happens. Was in an awkward position so tried messing around with the gear box changing gears to try and see if I could roll the car to a better place. (Can’t normally as its automatic) The dash then freaked out, shows a three line gear fault , lots of clicks coming the car. Because now can’t put it in gear, I can’t engage neutral to start car even if battery was original issue and is recharged. Playing with the gears doesn’t help, the dash just clicks repeatedly (about 12 times, seems to be coming from speedo) and flashed on and off. Scared I am making it worse. Any help would be appreciated …I am going to get it recovered but there are no Smart garages nearby so I think I am going to have problems!

I am thinking of buying used smart electric drive years 2012-2014,but I found out that none of them contains battery and needs battery to be rented every month from some smart car partner.Can anyone please tell me where can I buy in Central Europe a battery for smart and what would be the price?

Hi there! I couldn't find it online but does anyone know what type of battery would work in the 2005 Smart ForTwo? I can order from either Walmart, Canadian Tire or Amazon.ca so I'm looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!

I've been having a lot of problems with my '06 450 CDI Passion. The battery light keeps coming on after the engine has been idling for about 10 seconds, and never goes off again. I took it for servicing, and was told that the aftermarket stereo & amp were causing a drain - not true, because I've removed both from the car. Here are some more details: I'm on my THIRD alternator in 3 years (replaced 1 year ago, car has only been driveable for 3 months since!!) so I doubt it's the alternator Brand new Smart battery installed 3 weeks ago, driven once since (back from mechanic, battery light came on about 15 min into my trip home) The only issue I can see with the battery is that the bolt for the bracket that holds it down has been sheared off (see red box in photo), so the battery slides around a fair bit, and the bolt hole is very rusty (I wire brushed it). Also, the ground connection to the frame is rusty as well (see green box in photo), and I cannot remove the washer, so I'm not convinced that the ground has proper contact with the frame. No error codes Used multimeter, battery puts out about 13V (I think? I don't know much about electrical stuff) Last week when testing the battery with the multimeter, I turned the car off. Then tried to start again, and got the immobilizer key on dash. Pulled key, locked/unlocked doors, tried to start, got the immobilizer again. Repeat x3 before giving up. 2 days ago, I brought my portable power pack and jump-started the Smart, started fine, no battery light. Let it idle for 5 minutes before unhooking the jump cables. Battery light came on within 10 seconds of removing the jump cables. I can't find a parasitic draw anywhere (doesn't mean there isn't one, just that I can't find anything) All fuses good I've also been having an issue for over 2years with a drastic loss of power when on the highway. The car won't go more than 90km/hr, even in 6th gear. I used to keep it in 5th for maximum torque. Replaced turbo TWICE, did EGR valves, replaced clutch, transmission ok, and no error codes. Please help me figure this out! I've spent over $3,000 fixing this car in the past 1.5 years alone, and I'm not putting any more money into guesswork. If I can't figure this out, I have to get rid of the car. I'd like to keep it, but I'm out of ideas on what to check or do to figure out what's going on. **Photo from Evilution