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Posted

The clock pod is an installation that you can do yourself. The rev counter is more difficult and requires a Service Centre to activate it, so depending on what you want done it may be more practical to just get the professional work done.

Here's an example of a clock pod kit. Note that I had a spare set of screws, and also note that the contrast component -- the plastic decorative ring -- is sold separately.

Posted

The triangular upper-central console pops off after you release the latch on the far side with a card or flat-head screwdriver. The latch holds it down, but the console pivots towards you. In my photo, note how the Canadianization was done incorrectly: The middle black indicator pod is slightly off-centre in its position relative to the screw holes, and they routed its black shielded cable down the centre, instead of around the side of the outer triangular console. This would later become a problem when I requested the Rev Counter pod to be installed.

The two pods come with a plastic shoe and bus cable, and they screw into the pre-drilled holes in the dash. To slide the shoe under the console, you have to unscrew the two mount points on the left and right side of the console. Don't unscrew all the way, just enough to make room under the bracket.

Slide the pod and its cable bus under the bracket, position, and then screw down. You can re-secure the bracket now.

Using the cable bus, plug it into the circuit board on underside of the console that you popped out (sorry, I don't have the picture showing this). NOTE: Do not attach the black plastic clasp on the cable's terminal until later! If I remember correctly, the correct orientation will have the cable pointing downwards. Turn on the car's night lights and check that the clock pod's background lights up ONLY when you turn on the lights. If you don't have it orientated correctly, the backlight will remain on all the time (with the engine on?).

Once you've tested the correct orientation, remove the cable terminal from the circuit board, and fit it with the included black clasp, then reseat. This clasp will firmly secure the cable to the board. Because it's a tight, snap-in connection, you want to be sure you got it right.

Assuming all is well, reseat the centre console, pivoting it away from you, and make sure the latch engages. If this is proving difficult, lift up and check that cables are routing and out of the way, that nothing is getting pinched, then reseat.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

The nice part about this one, over the tachometer, is that it doesn't have to be dealer activated; it's just a voltage plug.-Iain

Posted

Ah, I have both, and I don't have anything to take the speedo cluster off with anyway... so I guess I either have $280 worth of hood ornaments, or I have to pay more for install anyway...It wasn't like I needed the pods anyway.... ack.....

Posted

Wait wait - why would you need to take the speedo cluster off to install the clock?

The clock plugs into the PCB right there under the lock button horseshoe. This picture from one of my mods might help:

Posted Image

-Iain

  • Like 1
Posted

Keith, you need a T-10 to get the cluster off....If you come over here we could have a tach and clock installation party. And I could taunt you with your old sportlines ;)

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I finally got around to installing the clock and tach today. It was a bit fussy, but not too bad. As spinner noted, you do need to carefully move the indicator lights wiring out of the center area to install the tach.The tach wire is plenty long, so all I've done for now is got it into the little cubby hole beside the steering wheel. Had to think how to run that wire - trick - bring the connector and wire back out of the cluster at the top end... don't waste time trying to 'feed' it through impossible openings. Then you can move it around the side at the back and into where you need it.I'll take the speedo cluster off later today and finish it up.

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