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MikeT

My 404 Coupé Injection

233 posts in this topic

Today I installed the Nardi shifter. It's tight getting in there to tighten the bolts. Shifts nicely. A Michelin inner tube was cut up to make a weatherproof seal between the bodyshell and Nardi, as per the original (but mine is better!).
 
Next I have to cut up some insulation to fit both under and over the fibreglass Nardi covers, which will take some trial and error, and finally fit the tunnel carpet over all that.

Nardi Installed.jpg

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I mounted the carpet on the transmission tunnel after the removable insulation and fibreglass shells were installed.  

 

I think this will be a provisional job because I realize now that the original carpet piece that the new one was modelled on was not the optimal shape for the area behind the shifter.  You see the drop-off after the shifter boot, well that is about 7 cm shy of the end of the rear tunnel carpeted section.  I guess the original carpet had a separate strip for that area.  So I made one up from the dark blue original tunnel carpet and it looks presentable, but the rigorous solution would be to have it all in one piece, with the lower section being part of the min tunnel carpet but shortened so it fits the radius of the lower tunnel ideally.  

 

So when the car is on the road again and Covid-19 is under control I will visit the guy who made it and have him custom make another one in one piece.

carpet tunnel.jpg

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A year later and before installing the engine, something had been bugging me.  The fuel return line I had installed a year ago was too short and ended under the clamp you see on the left side of the photo.  So I had installed a rubber injection-rated fuel line with clamp and clamped the whole mess under the holder.  But it seems not rigorous and liable to cause leaks or some other problem over time.  So yesterday I bought another 16 feet of 5/16 inch Cunifer line and made that line over again.  Now it reaches to right under the fuel decanter filter, which is what it's supposed to do, with no hose clamp under a clamp that would be nearly impossible to access with the engine installed.  Much better!  I still don't know which is the fuel supply line and the return line, but if it's not the one I've connected to I can easily switch them.  The rubber fuel line you see on one Cunifer line is going to be cut again for an inline fuel filter.

 

I also started tidying up the blower units and hope to be able to get the best one working and cleaned up&hash=c6a40b9c67477fe7351cdebf1239b3f5&hash=c6a40b9c67477fe7351cdebf1239b3f5

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Update: thanks to Daniel Goron in southern France for positively identifying the two fuel tank connections - I did it correctly in the first place!

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Today I did some work on the SOFICA blower unit. I have two. One had a noisy motor with lots of end play on the shaft, but much better brushes than the other one, which was quiet and had very little shaft play. So I swapped brush holders, which meant a little bit of soldering. Came out very well.
Then I extended the wires so the two speed switch that I have relocated from the blower unit to the dashboard can be fed, and found a good blocking plate for the switch hole.
The thing I should have got before now is a set of new rubber mounting washers for the motor, which is bolted through the front of the SOFICA housing. So, before putting the motor into the housing and putting it into the car I will see if I can get a new set of those.

SEV blower motor.jpg

Sofica cover.jpg

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The next step was to find rubber mounts for the blower fan motor. The originals were gone and scrap anyway. I thought I'd have to make some but Duncan Auto Parts has a chest of grommets that are surprisingly useful and they had three that fit. The originals were split in half when new and inserted from either side. I decided to see if I could squeeze these new ones through in one piece. Yes is the answer.
 
So I did.
 
I had to make special provision for the wire extenders for the switch because they run near the blower now that they have to exit the housing instead of just going to the switch on the bottom of the housing. So I taped them down with aluminium duct tape to keep them away from the impeller and had a lot of fun getting the nuts threaded but in the end it's all good!

SOFICA mounted.jpg

inside Sofica.jpg

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Got the SOFICA unit installed with the remote switch wired up nicely.  It's worth mentioning that despite being a metric car, the brake pipe unions are 3/8 inch and not 10 mm.  A 10 mm wrench will not get them tight enough.  The car's off jack stands and on its own wheels again.

 

Brake wrenches.jpg

SOFICA installed.jpg

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The Jaeger aluminium plate for the sports instrument panel - made by Le Club 404 - arrived today and I installed the instruments provisionally at the lunch break. The instruments other than the oil pressure gauge are used and need to be cleaned and tested. I may also look for a better voltmeter and possibly an 8 Gordini tachometer after all, as the Renault 8S tachometer has a different style of chrome trim. Still it's a good start.....Jaeger Panel.jpgJaeger Panel and Trim.jpgPlatine Jaeger Club.jpg

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The town horn I think is the one in the engine compartment and the road horns behind the grille....anyway I bought a new SANOR brand rebuilt town horn because mine was beyond repair and the plastic had spalled off the edges.  Got it on eBay, not cheap but it was redone and works well.  The form is identical to the original though the sound is likely a bit different because this one is a "TR" and the original was a "TV3".SANOR bottom.jpgSANOR installed.jpg

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Got the new rod bearings in 0.3 and 0.5, will bring to the machine shop next Friday so they can match the appropriate size up to the resurfaced crank.

Rod bearings 0.3, 0.5 .jpg

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Bought a used Mercedes-Benz rear license plate mount to use on the front of the 404C.  It required a bit of modification to adapt - new holes drilled to match the factory holes in the bumper - but it fits well and the thick stainless steel is excellent!  It's almost a shame to put a plate on it ;)

Front Plate Mount.jpg

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The engine as it was Friday at 3:15 PM, when I was dropping off the big end bearing sets.  Coming together nicely.  Most of what you can see other than the block is new.

Engine small.jpg

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Next step now that it's home is to paint the block after getting the flash rust off it.  Also got from Peugeot Classic a Peugeot branded warning triangle and a plug wrench to carry in the car.

Twin engined B200.jpg

Triangle and plug wrench.jpg

Long Block at home.jpg

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So far the only part of the block that was painted, after a good wire brushing, is the orangest part you can see in that photo in the post above.  I painted it before mounting the external oil line that feeds pressurized oil to the head, which would have made painting it pretty difficult after.  The tube itself needed painting and the insides were cleaned out first.

 

Ceramic paint good to 600°C on the cast iron manifold, which was perfectly rust free and clean beforehand. Hope it lasts a while!

 

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The other side.  The shop rectified the faces of the 4 ports on the manifold so it lost its mild pitting from the past 55 years and should fit the new head beautifully!

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I also cleaned the clutch fan switch sensor that screws into the radiator and mounted it, cleaned out the oil supply tube between the block and head, mounted it with new copper washers after painting the block behind the tube first, then painted the tube once mounted.

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Engine assembly has been started but I have to get it on the engine stand so I can do the sump, timing cover and injection pump etc.  I tried the header pipe just for fun, kind of looks like an actual header!

IMG_7319.jpg

Header 1.jpg

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Mounted the flywheel and then put the whole thing onto the engine stand tonight.  Engine assembly to follow.....

Flywheel mounted.jpeg

Long block on engine stand.jpeg

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Injection pump and timing assembly are back on the engine......

Engine-1.jpg 
Engine-2.jpg
Engine-5.jpg 
Engine-6.jpg 
Engine-7.jpg 
Engine-8.jpg

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It's basically ready to go in the car.  I will not put the intake manifold on now because the chains from the factory hoist bar chafe it so I'll put them on once it's in the car.  The distributor/oil pump drive has to be properly oriented before assembly (and retained by the distributor collar or it will fall out when the engine's upside down).

IMG_7380.jpeg

IMG_7383.jpeg

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Some home renovations and repairs took precedence the past week, but I did get the final engine preparation done prior to its installation into the car: distributor and water pump, plus the unadjustable Veniflex belt 1280.01.  The latter is unique to the KF2 injection cars and at least the 180°contact surface on the water pump pulley is safer than if more accessories were driven by it.

 

engine pre-installation.jpeg

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The hood has been removed in anticipation of the upcoming engine installation.  Ready to go except for me moving the unlicensed smart out of the garage, moving the engine from its stand to the hydraulic crane, mounting the clutch driven disc and pressure plate, then mounting it.  I'l have to wait for a day when my eldest daughter is available.  Maybe the next couple of days, maybe a bit later.  The green tape and padding are some of the precautions I have employed to protect the paint from damage when removing the hood and installing the engine.Hood off.jpeg

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The smart is temporarily out in the elements because I need the room to install the Peugeot 404 engine.  That should happen tomorrow.  The lower photo shows the clutch centring tool inserted before the pressure plate bolts have been tightened to 9 lbs-ft.

Engine hoist.jpegEngine hoist 3.jpeg

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The engine is in.  A bit more engine/injection/exhaust system assembly and then the brakes to come....

Jenn on hoist.jpeg

engine installed.jpeg

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Not really, I am slowly assembling it when time allows.  Should be driveable in May sometime.

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Did a bit more today.....engine inst2.jpegEngine inst1.jpeg

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