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Timing/oil pump chain


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It took me a good day. Had trouble with rusty heads on a dozen Torx headed sump bolts and had to weld nuts to them to get something to grip onto. Assuming you may be changing timing chain same time you will need a 36 mm open ended spanner to counter hold on cam shaft. Use good sealant. I used black polyurethane sealant from a builders merchant, commonly known as PU40 here. Comes in 300 ml cartridges. No point starting the job unless you can undo crank pulley bolt.

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Timing chain tensioner seems to be extended near its maximum. Oil chain tensioner should not have wear marks like that. I would renew both chains complete with sprockets, guides and tensioners.

Not conclusive as far as the noise source is concerned.

You'll burn out collector rings unless you change brushes. Cost only two or three Pounds. Beware you have to hold brush wires tight with long nose pliers when soldering to prevent the solder wicking all the way to the brushes, rendering them stiff and useless.

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There may be a slight wobble in pump shaft or something. Try fitting oil pump sprocket turned 180 degrees and see if wobble becomes less.

DSC04219.jpg

Above photo shows a newly fitted timing chain. Cap at middle span is obviously greater than yours. I have not seen any specification for minimum gap. On my Cdi engine I turned both chains around 180 degrees. That helped a wee bit but perhaps not recommended.

Edited by tolsen
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  • 2 weeks later...

When testing, incorrect timing can be diagnosed through backfiring, misfiring, or very rough idling, which may start to smooth out at higher revs.

Above is last sentence in FQ101 guide on timing. The importance of getting timing right first time can never be sufficiently overemphasised.

How did you torque bolt holding camshaft sprocket to camshaft?

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Just being a wee bit curious. Have you checked timing is right by turning engine by hand and feeling for valve/ piston interference?

Also, have you checked if timing marks match up? Do that before removing timing cover.

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This document is not very clear... As per instruction in link above, I have aligned timing marks of crank pulley and chain cover, then I aligned a small hole of cam sprocket to the surface of cylinder head. But to the other side than described in attached document, which is 180 degrees or full crank revolution off, so is still ok. Also I did not let it rotate while changing the chain and the new one was perfectly aligned right away, I just doublechecked it with marks.

Also I guess that incorrect aligning would cause it to run bad right from start, but I did have a very silent and smooth running for first 10 minutes, until it warmed up.

I have rotated the engine with hand and have not noticed any interference...

Engine is timed when cylinder no 1 is at TDC and at start of its firing stroke. Lobes on camshaft for no 1 cylinder will then be pointing up. This is the most stable position for timing chain replacement. The timing procedure described on FQ101 is not entirely correct since lobes are pointing down.
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