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Timing/oil pump chain


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You got to be careful and apply sealant sparingly. I don't use silicone based sealants any more for machinery after having experienced similar problems to yours. Silicone based sealants are too soft and do easily come off. Polyurethane sealants have much higher mechanical strength and bond better to metals. Also a lot cheaper, obviously depending on where the sealant is sourced. My first sealant choice at the moment is PU40 polyurethane sealant available from builders merchants. This sealant is commonly used in caravans and motor homes. Only £4 for a 300 ml cartridge in the UK.

To measure oil pressure, just remove pressure switch and connect a pressure gauge. You need a suitable fitting.

parts-Oil-Pressure-Switch-SMART-FORTWO-C

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There is a Smart 450 petrol parked on my drive so i can check whether arrow on camshaft sprocket is centred in oil filler hole when crank shaft pulley timing mark lines up with mark on timing case cover. Can't do this before some time tomorrow.

I know you can access top bolts for timing case cover through oil filler hole. Have used that to check whether the two bolts are tight.

Removing rocker cover is a rather fiddly job on 160 engines. Much easier on the diesel. All we need do is remove vacuum pump.

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Never before seen on the net. Club smart car first:

DSC04315.jpg

Smart 450 Pure, 2002 registration. 0.6 litre engine. No 1 cylinder on second TDC (not firing stroke). Arrow on camshaft sprocket points exactly towards centre of oil filler hole. Arrow is just below tooth seen in middle of hole.

Makes it rather easy to check if timing is correct on 160 engines. All that has to come off is plastic splash guard at right hand side of auxiliary belt drive.

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Huh, that warm fuzzy feeling of success :) Thanks for confirming this.

By the way I drove it 50 more km today and runs fine. I have never done any repairs to any engine before (just electric vehicles, like drivetrain in my avatar), so this is a tiny achievement. Electric cars ar so much easier...

Edited by TorqueJunkie
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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...
On 2015-11-22 at 10:50 PM, tolsen said:

I doubt ebay item 171360758046 will be any worse than the original timing kit. Go for it and report back after a year.

Not exactly a year, but I can confirm that no failures occurred with the chain, it runs very well.

Edited by TorqueJunkie
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  • 3 years later...
On 3/26/2011 at 9:36 PM, dieselkiki said:

Hi folks, :) There's some of you who did replaced a timing chain or the oil pump chain on an OM660 CDI??? :unsure: The engine on my 2006 smart CDI make a noise of "slack" chain in the front cover. I thought that was normal but when a friend come at home yesterday with his smart... her engine was very quieter than mine!! Since I understand it I'm very worried about a timing/oil pump chain failure. :( So, I dont want that one of that chain break on the highway. I want to removed the front cover to inspect both chain. Somone have some information on the procedure, torque of the bolts (crank damper, front cover, vacuum pump etc...). So, any help will be welcome!ThanksDom

Hi, here that i got from Willys 

Unfortunately my engine is different, may work for you. Good luck!

Arkadiy

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OK, take a look at my left thumb in this picture, follow it forward to about half way along the top chain and you'll see a bolt hole with a string of silicon on it. THAT boss is where the slack oil chain will eat into under deceleration when the chain is loose on the top portion of the chain. It'll flap upwards and hit that boss. Mine is eaten into by about 1/8th of an inch deep! That and along with maybe a weak worn out tensioner the un-happy smiley face, black in this picture doesn't give enough pressure to keep the chain tight. You will find that a new chain has far too many links in it imho and will wrap around the oil pump sprocket almost up to half way on the left hand side.
I have two worn sprockets I can show you here now, both are slightly different in wear conditions but both have plenty of teeth left unlike some you see with none!  So the threat is a real one for the teeth to actually be worn off in a very bad engine...imho.
I'll post up pictures at a later date....sorry, too busy here today to up load sorry. Turkey is far more important.....lol Mmmmmm....TURKEY...!

 

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20200402_135104.jpg

 

OK, look at the line on the cam sprocket, or two short lines under the holes...on a CDI engine they go in this position  which lines up with a edge or line at this position. It goes against all what I know about engines being in this position but this is where they say to have it, I would have normally had it level with the top of the head edge , 180 degrees. Which is where they say to put it for the gasoline versions.  It took me a while to find this picture to set the timing here to be correct for the CDI. The long philips screw driver is indicating my TDC on #1 cylinder. plus the hole in the sprocket lines up with the pin on the cam if I remember correctly...you can't install the sprocket incorrectly.

 

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On 3/26/2011 at 9:36 PM, dieselkiki said:

Hi folks, :) There's some of you who did replaced a timing chain or the oil pump chain on an OM660 CDI??? :unsure: The engine on my 2006 smart CDI make a noise of "slack" chain in the front cover. I thought that was normal but when a friend come at home yesterday with his smart... her engine was very quieter than mine!! Since I understand it I'm very worried about a timing/oil pump chain failure. :( So, I dont want that one of that chain break on the highway. I want to removed the front cover to inspect both chain. Somone have some information on the procedure, torque of the bolts (crank damper, front cover, vacuum pump etc...). So, any help will be welcome!ThanksDom

 

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  • 2 years later...
On 4/12/2020 at 11:47 AM, Willys said:

OK, take a look at my left thumb in this picture, follow it forward to about half way along the top chain and you'll see a bolt hole with a string of silicon on it. THAT boss is where the slack oil chain will eat into under deceleration when the chain is loose on the top portion of the chain. It'll flap upwards and hit that boss. Mine is eaten into by about 1/8th of an inch deep! That and along with maybe a weak worn out tensioner the un-happy smiley face, black in this picture doesn't give enough pressure to keep the chain tight. You will find that a new chain has far too many links in it imho and will wrap around the oil pump sprocket almost up to half way on the left hand side.
I have two worn sprockets I can show you here now, both are slightly different in wear conditions but both have plenty of teeth left unlike some you see with none!  So the threat is a real one for the teeth to actually be worn off in a very bad engine...imho.
I'll post up pictures at a later date....sorry, too busy here today to up load sorry. Turkey is far more important.....lol Mmmmmm....TURKEY...!

 

That's weird? Your explaining this as if there was a picture attached. Was it deleted? I'm still looking for the worn sprocket and your thumb!

 

Edited by wagonwheel
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13 hours ago, wagonwheel said:

That's weird? Your explaining this as if there was a picture attached. Was it deleted? I'm still looking for the worn sprocket and your thumb!

 

Look up at post #165...it's the bottom picture in that group.....is there not any pictures there...??? I can see them?  There is a red arrow where the chain had started to eat my case.   OOOPs...sorry I re-read the picture you are asking about...Hmmm...?   I'll look for it....sorry.

OK, picture is gone....not even in my computer...Hmm...? Must have been blurry or something and these pictures show that boss far more clearer. The picture with the arrow is upside down so to speak, the block is upside down so the eaten area is actually under that boss not above it.  IF you look closely at the other assembled pictures you can see the damaged area on that boss. It is roughly halfway along the top of the oil drive chain in the centre of the block so to speak.  The boss looks like a slanted "d"...if that helps. 

Hope this helps if not....call me, just PM me for my number and I'll explain it better over the phone?

 

 

 

Edited by Willys
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I'm looking to buy the timing chain KIT. Do you recommend any sellers? Also looking for Turbo cartridge.

I found this one but not sure if it's any good or if there are better prices. What do you think?

 

https://www.amazon.ca/ROADFAR-Engine-replacement-A2669970094-A6601810012/dp/B08CDWL92Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smart+fortwo+Timing+Chain+Kit+A2669970094&qid=1664472822&s=automotive&sr=1-3

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837853824.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4fb338da1hGkRU&mp=1 

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The timing chain kit seems OK, it has been years since I purchased mine....so things have gone up a tad I expect, but the kit looks fine. As for the turbo cartridge I don't know, I purchased the entire exhaust manifold as a unit, mine was badly rusted and I have zero experience with changing cartridges...sorry. 

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On 9/29/2022 at 1:35 PM, wagonwheel said:

I'm looking to buy the timing chain KIT. Do you recommend any sellers? Also looking for Turbo cartridge.

I found this one but not sure if it's any good or if there are better prices. What do you think?

 

https://www.amazon.ca/ROADFAR-Engine-replacement-A2669970094-A6601810012/dp/B08CDWL92Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smart+fortwo+Timing+Chain+Kit+A2669970094&qid=1664472822&s=automotive&sr=1-3

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837853824.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4fb338da1hGkRU&mp=1 

 

 

i bought a turbo cartridge from powertec aliexpress.....it was (and is) cheaper than the listing you posted...it worked just fine for a few years ...i havent seen the car i sold it a few years ago though so i cant say if its still going strong

 

it also had a cheap timing chain kit from aliexpress (or possibly dhgate)....i wasnt impressed with the chain quality in hand but it fit and worked...

 

i recommend new oil pump gears and oil pump cover since youre in that deep anyway

 

 

 

edited to add: if i had to do it again id do like willys and order a complete turbo/manifold assembly...its worth it to save the time and headaches working with rusted warped cast iron lol

Edited by LooseLugNuts
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