tolsen Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Perhaps measure oil pressure before condemning new chain tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeT Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 It sounds like a rod bearing (wrist pin area or crank) may be sloppy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueJunkie Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Thanks, will look in to it. Edited October 21, 2016 by TorqueJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueJunkie Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Turns out, it is hydraulic timing chain tensenior, as suspected. Replaced it with old one and now all is fine! Thank you guys. Edited October 21, 2016 by TorqueJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tolsen Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 You got to be careful and apply sealant sparingly. I don't use silicone based sealants any more for machinery after having experienced similar problems to yours. Silicone based sealants are too soft and do easily come off. Polyurethane sealants have much higher mechanical strength and bond better to metals. Also a lot cheaper, obviously depending on where the sealant is sourced. My first sealant choice at the moment is PU40 polyurethane sealant available from builders merchants. This sealant is commonly used in caravans and motor homes. Only £4 for a 300 ml cartridge in the UK. To measure oil pressure, just remove pressure switch and connect a pressure gauge. You need a suitable fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tolsen Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 There is a Smart 450 petrol parked on my drive so i can check whether arrow on camshaft sprocket is centred in oil filler hole when crank shaft pulley timing mark lines up with mark on timing case cover. Can't do this before some time tomorrow. I know you can access top bolts for timing case cover through oil filler hole. Have used that to check whether the two bolts are tight. Removing rocker cover is a rather fiddly job on 160 engines. Much easier on the diesel. All we need do is remove vacuum pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueJunkie Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Thanks tolsen, you gave me many useful advices. If not too much trouble, please check the arrow thing when you can. It was aligned it to center of cap hole and it runs fine now. Thanks. Edited October 21, 2016 by TorqueJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tolsen Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Never before seen on the net. Club smart car first: Smart 450 Pure, 2002 registration. 0.6 litre engine. No 1 cylinder on second TDC (not firing stroke). Arrow on camshaft sprocket points exactly towards centre of oil filler hole. Arrow is just below tooth seen in middle of hole. Makes it rather easy to check if timing is correct on 160 engines. All that has to come off is plastic splash guard at right hand side of auxiliary belt drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueJunkie Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 (edited) Huh, that warm fuzzy feeling of success Thanks for confirming this. By the way I drove it 50 more km today and runs fine. I have never done any repairs to any engine before (just electric vehicles, like drivetrain in my avatar), so this is a tiny achievement. Electric cars ar so much easier... Edited December 11, 2015 by TorqueJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueJunkie Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) Short update. Had an issue with frozen breather pipe, which lead to some oil burn. Nothing damaged, but just a warning to others to change these each year. Edited October 21, 2016 by TorqueJunkie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueJunkie Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) On 2015-11-22 at 10:50 PM, tolsen said: I doubt ebay item 171360758046 will be any worse than the original timing kit. Go for it and report back after a year. Not exactly a year, but I can confirm that no failures occurred with the chain, it runs very well. Edited October 21, 2016 by TorqueJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeT Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Wow bizarre. A piece of piston!! That will imbalance the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadiy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 On 3/26/2011 at 9:36 PM, dieselkiki said: Hi folks, There's some of you who did replaced a timing chain or the oil pump chain on an OM660 CDI??? The engine on my 2006 smart CDI make a noise of "slack" chain in the front cover. I thought that was normal but when a friend come at home yesterday with his smart... her engine was very quieter than mine!! Since I understand it I'm very worried about a timing/oil pump chain failure. So, I dont want that one of that chain break on the highway. I want to removed the front cover to inspect both chain. Somone have some information on the procedure, torque of the bolts (crank damper, front cover, vacuum pump etc...). So, any help will be welcome!ThanksDom Hi, here that i got from Willys Unfortunately my engine is different, may work for you. Good luck! Arkadiy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 OK, take a look at my left thumb in this picture, follow it forward to about half way along the top chain and you'll see a bolt hole with a string of silicon on it. THAT boss is where the slack oil chain will eat into under deceleration when the chain is loose on the top portion of the chain. It'll flap upwards and hit that boss. Mine is eaten into by about 1/8th of an inch deep! That and along with maybe a weak worn out tensioner the un-happy smiley face, black in this picture doesn't give enough pressure to keep the chain tight. You will find that a new chain has far too many links in it imho and will wrap around the oil pump sprocket almost up to half way on the left hand side. I have two worn sprockets I can show you here now, both are slightly different in wear conditions but both have plenty of teeth left unlike some you see with none! So the threat is a real one for the teeth to actually be worn off in a very bad engine...imho. I'll post up pictures at a later date....sorry, too busy here today to up load sorry. Turkey is far more important.....lol Mmmmmm....TURKEY...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 The last picture is upside down sorry... You can see the far too long brand new chain, but when I checked it against the old chain it had the same amount of links etc, so it's installed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadiy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Hi Willys, That was fantastic photos i ever seen. It exactly like my engine. In case you have one more pic with cam sprocket on OT ? How it should be positioned? Thanks Arkadiy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 OK, look at the line on the cam sprocket, or two short lines under the holes...on a CDI engine they go in this position which lines up with a edge or line at this position. It goes against all what I know about engines being in this position but this is where they say to have it, I would have normally had it level with the top of the head edge , 180 degrees. Which is where they say to put it for the gasoline versions. It took me a while to find this picture to set the timing here to be correct for the CDI. The long philips screw driver is indicating my TDC on #1 cylinder. plus the hole in the sprocket lines up with the pin on the cam if I remember correctly...you can't install the sprocket incorrectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadiy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 On 3/26/2011 at 9:36 PM, dieselkiki said: Hi folks, There's some of you who did replaced a timing chain or the oil pump chain on an OM660 CDI??? The engine on my 2006 smart CDI make a noise of "slack" chain in the front cover. I thought that was normal but when a friend come at home yesterday with his smart... her engine was very quieter than mine!! Since I understand it I'm very worried about a timing/oil pump chain failure. So, I dont want that one of that chain break on the highway. I want to removed the front cover to inspect both chain. Somone have some information on the procedure, torque of the bolts (crank damper, front cover, vacuum pump etc...). So, any help will be welcome!ThanksDom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkadiy Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Hi Willys, Thats all i need! Thank you so much. Arkadiy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonwheel Posted September 28, 2022 Share Posted September 28, 2022 (edited) On 4/12/2020 at 11:47 AM, Willys said: OK, take a look at my left thumb in this picture, follow it forward to about half way along the top chain and you'll see a bolt hole with a string of silicon on it. THAT boss is where the slack oil chain will eat into under deceleration when the chain is loose on the top portion of the chain. It'll flap upwards and hit that boss. Mine is eaten into by about 1/8th of an inch deep! That and along with maybe a weak worn out tensioner the un-happy smiley face, black in this picture doesn't give enough pressure to keep the chain tight. You will find that a new chain has far too many links in it imho and will wrap around the oil pump sprocket almost up to half way on the left hand side. I have two worn sprockets I can show you here now, both are slightly different in wear conditions but both have plenty of teeth left unlike some you see with none! So the threat is a real one for the teeth to actually be worn off in a very bad engine...imho. I'll post up pictures at a later date....sorry, too busy here today to up load sorry. Turkey is far more important.....lol Mmmmmm....TURKEY...! That's weird? Your explaining this as if there was a picture attached. Was it deleted? I'm still looking for the worn sprocket and your thumb! Edited September 28, 2022 by wagonwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 You are right wagonwheel there is no picture there. I’m sure Willys will comment shortly. He usually checks the site a couple of times a day when he is not away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 (edited) 13 hours ago, wagonwheel said: That's weird? Your explaining this as if there was a picture attached. Was it deleted? I'm still looking for the worn sprocket and your thumb! Look up at post #165...it's the bottom picture in that group.....is there not any pictures there...??? I can see them? There is a red arrow where the chain had started to eat my case. OOOPs...sorry I re-read the picture you are asking about...Hmmm...? I'll look for it....sorry. OK, picture is gone....not even in my computer...Hmm...? Must have been blurry or something and these pictures show that boss far more clearer. The picture with the arrow is upside down so to speak, the block is upside down so the eaten area is actually under that boss not above it. IF you look closely at the other assembled pictures you can see the damaged area on that boss. It is roughly halfway along the top of the oil drive chain in the centre of the block so to speak. The boss looks like a slanted "d"...if that helps. Hope this helps if not....call me, just PM me for my number and I'll explain it better over the phone? Edited September 29, 2022 by Willys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonwheel Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 I'm looking to buy the timing chain KIT. Do you recommend any sellers? Also looking for Turbo cartridge. I found this one but not sure if it's any good or if there are better prices. What do you think? https://www.amazon.ca/ROADFAR-Engine-replacement-A2669970094-A6601810012/dp/B08CDWL92Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smart+fortwo+Timing+Chain+Kit+A2669970094&qid=1664472822&s=automotive&sr=1-3 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837853824.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4fb338da1hGkRU&mp=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys Posted September 29, 2022 Share Posted September 29, 2022 The timing chain kit seems OK, it has been years since I purchased mine....so things have gone up a tad I expect, but the kit looks fine. As for the turbo cartridge I don't know, I purchased the entire exhaust manifold as a unit, mine was badly rusted and I have zero experience with changing cartridges...sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LooseLugNuts Posted October 1, 2022 Share Posted October 1, 2022 (edited) On 9/29/2022 at 1:35 PM, wagonwheel said: I'm looking to buy the timing chain KIT. Do you recommend any sellers? Also looking for Turbo cartridge. I found this one but not sure if it's any good or if there are better prices. What do you think? https://www.amazon.ca/ROADFAR-Engine-replacement-A2669970094-A6601810012/dp/B08CDWL92Z/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smart+fortwo+Timing+Chain+Kit+A2669970094&qid=1664472822&s=automotive&sr=1-3 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837853824.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4fb338da1hGkRU&mp=1 i bought a turbo cartridge from powertec aliexpress.....it was (and is) cheaper than the listing you posted...it worked just fine for a few years ...i havent seen the car i sold it a few years ago though so i cant say if its still going strong it also had a cheap timing chain kit from aliexpress (or possibly dhgate)....i wasnt impressed with the chain quality in hand but it fit and worked... i recommend new oil pump gears and oil pump cover since youre in that deep anyway edited to add: if i had to do it again id do like willys and order a complete turbo/manifold assembly...its worth it to save the time and headaches working with rusted warped cast iron lol Edited October 1, 2022 by LooseLugNuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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