Removing The Intercooler

[stickman007]

I now have new appreciation for people who were able to remove the intercooler! Took me almost an hour just to wiggle it and twist it out not including time removing the intake hoses! I followed instructions from evolution:

http://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?id=656

"It is secured by four plastic clips on the top and bottom of each side.

You need get a thin flat bladed screw driver and carefully press it in to the centre of each clip to disengage it from the plastic housing, gently pull it forward. As with the cooling fan, pull the top of the intercooler forward and away from the rear housing first. You can then lift the intercooler up and out of the engine bay. Be careful not to damage the semi rigid diesel fuel return line or any of the wiring loom parts as you remove the intercooler."

This actually sounds so simple! In reality, it was a PITA!! Also, I had to remove one of the EGR coolant hose in order to make room, (not in the instructions anywhere). Are the coolant hoses only found in the Canadian CDIs? The the hose (going to the heater matrix) was crossed on top of one of the harness and if I didn't remove it, there would've been no way I can get the harness out of the way for the intercooler to come out.

Turns out, I caught mine just in time! It is almost rubbed through, but not quite yet...going to clean and try epoxy tomorrow and mod the plastic shield.

Any tips on how to get it back in?

Izzy

[Alex]

***Are the coolant hoses only found in the Canadian CDIs?***Izzy

AFAIK, yes. The pipe that takes exhaust gasses to the EGR is water-cooled, all to do with squeaking in under the Canadian emissions laws. Never mind the effects on economy, engine life, maintenance problems or the fact that massive pickups and SUVs are classed different and face much less stringent emissions because... because... Ford, Chrysler and GMC lobbyists are really good? No good reason, anyway.And well done on the intercooler removal!

[bilgladstone]

Signs of wear but to worn through yet... how many km on your car again, Izzy? I guess this is something I have yet to look forward to...Yes, I don't seem to see EGR coolant hoses on the pix at evilution. NOTHING on this car is as simple as the UK/EU versions!And Oh, those infuriating little instructions: "installation is reverse of the above"!Bil

[WudzRydr]

I can verify it is just as much, if not more of a PITA to get in as it was to get out. Sorry I can't offer much help. All I remember was being frustrated and the feeling of accomplishment when I got it in. lol

[stickman007]

Bil: my car has around 110,000km on it now! Bought the car with 83,000km! I will be deleting the EGR coolant hoses...from what I see now (will drop engine down a few inches), I can just remove the hose that goes to the EGR cooler, cut the one that goes to the matrix shorter, and hook it up directly back to the thermostat housing. The circulating block heater will be tapping in there too. As to our discussion a few months back, I will be keeping the check valve in mine. Proposed routing:Tap into the return line from the radiator (supplying the circulating heater)Tap into the heater matrix line at the thermostat housing (output of the circulating heater)With this proposed setup, I need the check valve in, so that the coolant will not bypass the radiator. I didn't want to hook it up inline with the heater matrix because I theorized that it might restrict the flow too much => loosing heat in the cabin. What do you think?Alex: Yeah, those emission stuff never really made sense to me. Can't remember correctly that early GMs had air pumps to dilute the exhaust? or the new diesel particulate filters that "need" to be burnt off?Izzy

[3UP]

What circulating block heater are you using?

[stickman007]

What circulating block heater are you using?

Zerostart Series 8000 1000w from CanTire Izzy

[AHZELA]

I think I remember lowering the engine just a touch for a little more room, as well as removing the main harness plugs as well. The perfect sequence of twists and turns to get it back into position is almost as annoying as the sames twists and turns for the starter. Its a touch and go process to get the clips to all line up perfect, but for sure it will be easier to get it back in then taking it out, you dont have to fight with getting one clip out... then 2.. then having the one you just got un-clipped fall back in again like when its coming out. The lower hose is the real fun part to get back on, I think that took me the longest and made my swear the most.

Edited January 15, 2013 by AHZELA

[stickman007]

Removing the stupid plastic housing was even worst!! I spent another hour trying to wiggle that pieces out, and ended up breaking the lower housing...Is the lower housing important at all? I can repair the lower piece, but I dread when I have to put the metal clips back on. Can I just leave it off? Would it affect performance or function? Any thoughts?Izzy

[smart142]

Instead of the clips try really long tie straps. Much easier.

[stickman007]

Instead of the clips try really long tie straps. Much easier.

Thanks Glenn, alway provide great simple ideas! Is that lower plastic housing necessary? The reason why I broke it was because it was caught between the transmission and firewall, (I tried to squeeze it through...after swearing for 10mins). I suppose when I lower the engine it'll go back in easier...but if not necessary, I prefer just to leave it.Izzy

[AHZELA]

Lower housing? Your not talking about the scoop are you? If so yes it is needed to force air from under the car to the IC. Been a while since i removed the IC so I could be forgetting about the piece you speak of.

[smart142]

Is that lower plastic housing necessary?

I think you need that housing with an air scoop to properly cool the IC.I cut the curved part of a plastic oil jug to size and then pop rivet it to the lower housing.The scoop IMHO is a must have in the warmer weather.

[scwmcan]

Yes the scoop is necessary once it gets warm, you may be able todo without it during the colder weather but come spring and summer your intake temp will run higher without it. So you can wait until warmer weather to fix it, but you will need to put it back then, so nless you want to do the job again probably best to do it now.

[stickman007]

Thanks guys! I will bare the pain and reinstall it :(Some photos for funThe Car is sitting on the stands nowThe oil leak is not from puncture, but the oil that leaked out when I loosen the clamp while removing it

Edited January 16, 2013 by stickman007

[scwmcan]

I've done the working on the car in the snow thing, no fun, you have my sympathies. Hope things go together easier for you than taking them apart. The hose from the turbo to the intercooler is a real pain though, but it will go on eventually.

[fordnut71]

Bbrrrzzz

[smart142]

Hats off to you!I'm spoilt with a hoist and a gas furnace and still get frustrated working on smarts.

[stickman007]

Thanks Glenn!Word of advice to anybody reading this thread: "Never remove the intercooler scoop or plastic housing if possible!" I thought it was a pain to get it out, it was far worst getting it back in! It doesn't help with the engine lowered, the lower scoop will lock against the firewall and you won't be able to manoeuvre the top or bottom piece back in place. When the engine is up, you can see it, but your hands will not be able to get to where it needs to be. It is possible that I just suck, but it was once of the most frustrating things I've done. I use to think working on a Subaru STI engine/tranny is a pain...its child's play compared to the Smart :(Next on the list, intercooler goes back in...Izzy

[ray4406]

does anyone have photo of the scoop does it stick below the bottom body cover ?

[WudzRydr]

Thanks Glenn!Word of advice to anybody reading this thread: "Never remove the intercooler scoop or plastic housing if possible!"

I trimmed mine while it was still in the car. Good luck on the rest of the job!

[Bessy]

Just remember before discouraging too many people....when working on cars in freezing or hot temps 5 degrees and lower/30 and hotter things are always harder than they are in a climate where you are comfortable.I'm sure this would be a slightly easier task in nicer weather....that's what I'm waiting for. (that or another slow day at work)

[stickman007]

I'm sure this would be a slightly easier task in nicer weather....that's what I'm waiting for. (that or another slow day at work)

The weather was actually really nice to me yesterday. I wasn't cold or wet, I didn't even have to use gloves. The pic above was before the sun was out, so it looked more miserable than it really was. I wish you luck as you tackle your adventures :)I thought about trimming the housing while it was still in the car, but got greedy and wanted to pull the wiring harness out too. Mine is back in the car now...next time if I have to remove the scoop, I'm dropping the subframe on the lowering bolts rather than trying to squeeze/twist it in with the evilution lowering method.Izzy Edited January 20, 2013 by stickman007

[stickman007]

Intercooler back in without any problems...with the X-support removed, the turbo outlet hose went in very easily. Everything torqued and wiring zip tied. Just waiting on Canada Post for my ECU to fire up the car

[scwmcan]

Glad your car is ( mostly) back together, hope your ecu gets back soon so you can enjoy driving it again.