smartme Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 Just wondering if the two torx bolts that hold the little metal pipe on the EGR valve break easily?I'm just about to loosen them so that I can pull the egr off and clean it all. The right hand bolt is a littlerusty and I just get that feeling it will snap. Happen to anyone before? Seems like such a big jobif it snaps to fix it again. Quote
stickman007 Posted June 28, 2014 Posted June 28, 2014 You mean the EGR cooler pipe that's going into the EGR housing?Won't do any harm if you spray a little penetrating oil a few times before you start the process. Quote
CANMAN Posted June 29, 2014 Posted June 29, 2014 The only way I managed to get the last one I did off was to use a oxy acetylene torch, had to remove all the hoses and other flammable stuff first.Canman Quote
smartme Posted June 30, 2014 Author Posted June 30, 2014 The only way I managed to get the last one I did off was to use a oxy acetylene torch, had to remove all the hoses and other flammable stuff first.Canman Yeah, just as I thought, what a bummer. Quote
smartme Posted June 30, 2014 Author Posted June 30, 2014 You mean the EGR cooler pipe that's going into the EGR housing?Won't do any harm if you spray a little penetrating oil a few times before you start the process.I get the feeling the oil won't be enough as it looks very rusted. Quote
stickman007 Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 When I did the EGR delete on my cabrio, I actually had to cut the head of the bolt off with a small zip disc...On the other hand, the bolts were actually loose on my coupe... Quote
Alex Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 A simple cleaning can be done in place. If it's too far gone you don't need those bolts removed intact anyway, you're changing out the valve or blanking off and emulating. BTW, I've removed many broken-off studs in my time. If it has not been hacked and mashed at, once the pull from the component has been removed you can almost always get the broken stud out. If in doubt get it to a professional (not the dealer!), before the bolt is broken off flush, when it's easy and virtually 100% chance of success. At times when I fear the worst, I will deliberately grind the head off an unbroken stubborn bolt, just so I can work on the stub free from the component, reckoning that the expensive casting is worth the extra time to ensure it remains undamaged. Once the bolt is broken off flush it gets much more difficult to ensure clean removal. Quote
smartme Posted July 1, 2014 Author Posted July 1, 2014 Thanks for all the tips! Luckily, when I actually tried to loosen the bolts today, they turned with almost no effort. Seems even though they looked bad, they weren't even very tight, so I feel good about that. Now to the task of cleaning the egr valve and getting my wife's smartcar on the road for Summer. I'm hoping by cleaning the valve that the motor will never go into limp mode again which is such a PITA when driving. Quote
KurtMan Posted July 1, 2014 Posted July 1, 2014 If it's been sitting long you should service the waste gate too, they tend to stick and cause limp mode. Quote
smartme Posted July 15, 2014 Author Posted July 15, 2014 If it's been sitting long you should service the waste gate too, they tend to stick and cause limp mode.Sorry for the late reply as I was away a couple of weeks. Yes, thanks, as per your suggestion last year I didclean the waist gate, but that alone did not stop it from going often into limp mode.I managed to pull out the EGR valve today and it was almost caked shut from all the carbon. Even sothe valve itself was still moving fine, but I'm hoping that after cleaning it all out that the annoyinglimp mode won't happen again. Quote
dmoonen Posted July 15, 2014 Posted July 15, 2014 Sorry for the late reply as I was away a couple of weeks. Yes, thanks, as per your suggestion last year I didclean the waist gate, but that alone did not stop it from going often into limp mode.I managed to pull out the EGR valve today and it was almost caked shut from all the carbon. Even sothe valve itself was still moving fine, but I'm hoping that after cleaning it all out that the annoyinglimp mode won't happen again.Delete the bugger, problem solved. Quote
smartme Posted July 15, 2014 Author Posted July 15, 2014 Delete the bugger, problem solved.Can you provide a link how to delete it! I know I read something about that before, but can't remember where. Quote
dmoonen Posted July 15, 2014 Posted July 15, 2014 Here ya go http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=26335 Quote
Jerzy Posted July 15, 2014 Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) Can you provide a link how to delete it! I know I read something about that before, but can't remember where.Hi. The easiest way is to buy a kit from http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-CHEATER-BLANKI...=item2a2f34b6acIt comes to your door in a week or so. Installation is simple and quick. I have used plate and gasket to block exhaust pipe going to EGR and plugged in simulator. EGR intact left in place (you don't need additional connector pipes). I am driving with this mod for over 30000 km with better power and fuel economy. Sweet, it works perfect. JerzyCost: $50Time: 2h (you need to remove back to get to one of the screws) Edited July 15, 2014 by Jerzy Quote
smartme Posted July 16, 2014 Author Posted July 16, 2014 Here ya go http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=26335Thanks, will take a look and learn something new! Quote
smartme Posted July 16, 2014 Author Posted July 16, 2014 Hi. The easiest way is to buy a kit from http://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-CHEATER-BLANKI...=item2a2f34b6acIt comes to your door in a week or so. Installation is simple and quick. I have used plate and gasket to block exhaust pipe going to EGR and plugged in simulator. EGR intact left in place (you don't need additional connector pipes). I am driving with this mod for over 30000 km with better power and fuel economy. Sweet, it works perfect. JerzyCost: $50Time: 2h (you need to remove back to get to one of the screws)Hey, thanks for that info! The simulator shows 4 wires. Do they need to be spliced and is it complicated? Quote
Francesco Posted July 16, 2014 Posted July 16, 2014 While digging for that tail lamp last night I found that I have one stainless EGR-delete pipe left, the original prototype that the machine shop test-fitted to my car to get the cuts right. Let me know if you're interested in it. It comes with two sections of silicone tubing, you just need to supply four clamps of suitable size. $145 shipped anywhere that FedEx delivers in Canada. Quote
Jerzy Posted July 16, 2014 Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Hey, thanks for that info! The simulator shows 4 wires. Do they need to be spliced and is it complicated?The simulator has 5 wires (There is a black wire in the middle). It comes with the instruction. Edited July 16, 2014 by Jerzy Quote
smartme Posted July 18, 2014 Author Posted July 18, 2014 The simulator has 5 wires (There is a black wire in the middle). It comes with the instruction.Is it a simple install with the wires? Quote
smartme Posted July 18, 2014 Author Posted July 18, 2014 While digging for that tail lamp last night I found that I have one stainless EGR-delete pipe left, the original prototype that the machine shop test-fitted to my car to get the cuts right. Let me know if you're interested in it. It comes with two sections of silicone tubing, you just need to supply four clamps of suitable size. $145 shipped anywhere that FedEx delivers in Canada.Thanks. If I decide to get one, will pm you. Quote
Jerzy Posted July 18, 2014 Posted July 18, 2014 Is it a simple install with the wires?Yes it is simple. You have to make a connector with an EGR plug. I have soldered pieces of a paper clip to wires and bent them into a U shape. To connect them just follow instruction which comes with an emulator. Quote
smartme Posted July 19, 2014 Author Posted July 19, 2014 Yes it is simple. You have to make a connector with an EGR plug. I have soldered pieces of a paper clip to wires and bent them into a U shape. To connect them just follow instruction which comes with an emulator.Thanks. Not sure I should buy their product though if they leave out an important step of providing a finished connector. Quote
FlossyTheSmart Posted July 19, 2014 Posted July 19, 2014 The connector required would need to be custom made for this purpose. The "normal" install would be to cut the connector off of the wiring harness and splice the emulator in place of the connector. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.