Need Help Adjusting Clutch Actuator

[smartme]

Evilution says to loosen the 3 bolts, slide to right and then let it slide back itself and tighten after 5 seconds.

Does the car need to be in gear or in neutral and do I need to disconnect the electrical connector?

http://www.evilution.co.uk/Engine/clutch_adjustments.htm

On the other hand, on another forum, a guy actually moved the actuator 1/8 inch to the drivers side and

said it worked wonders. Any thoughts which way to go on this? I'm eager to try this today.

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f1...justment-43284/

Edited July 25, 2014 by smartme

[dmoonen]

In a nutshell my routine to smoother shifting includes:

, follow evilution guide and find someone with a star machine to do a teach in

Also note SCOA is US based, they never "really" had the 450's. That link is for a 451

Edited July 25, 2014 by dmoonen

[smartme]

I did lube it last year, so I guess I will try the adjustment then. Not sure who has a star machine around here in the Okanagan though. Would be great if my power came back on the hills after this adjustment but I'm not holding my breath.

Edited July 25, 2014 by smartme

[dmoonen]

Any good Mercedes or Euro shop should have one if not they'll most likely have a diagnostic machine which can do it.

[smartme]

Since we got our used smart a few years ago, it has never been to a shop! I always get a little worried handing her over to the wolves. Every time I call MB for anything, the dollars start flying and I give up.

[dmoonen]

Takes literally 15 minutes to do max just ask them for a straight up price no BS. Plug in, click a couple buttons and thats it. Takes more time to fire up the device.

[smartme]

OK, will ask them thanks. When I make the manual adjustment, do I need to disconnect the electrical connector and keep it in or our of gear?

[smartme]

Anyone here? lol Just want to make sure I do it right and if it needs to be in neutral or not and if I need to disconnect the electrical connector or not when I do the adjustment.

[smart142]

It needs to be in neutral.Use lots of penetrating oil before trying to loosen those 3 bolts.

[smartme]

Thanks Smart142, I appreciate it!

[smartme]

Takes literally 15 minutes to do max just ask them for a straight up price no BS. Plug in, click a couple buttons and thats it. Takes more time to fire up the device.

MB just told me it will take at least an hour or more and minimum cost would be $145.60 including tax. That's why my little smart never sees a dealer.

[dmoonen]

Take it to someone other then the $tealership. Local indy or Euro shop. Just ask if they have a star machine

[Francesco]

I think the dealerships take over an hour because most of their Xentry machines are usually on the fritz. The so-called technicians, according to my neighbour, don't realize that the Compacts are actually Windows tablets, and that the muxes are ultra- sensitive, and always powered while connected to the car, even if the ignition is off. Apparently they just finish up whatever they're doing and unplug everything. On any given day, more than half the dealership's Compacts and muxes are inop with TR numbers.

[FlossyTheSmart]

:banghead:That's certainly not good for the cars that are being unplugged from either....

[smartme]

Take it to someone other then the $tealership. Local indy or Euro shop. Just ask if they have a star machine

Thanks, I'll phone around. Probably none of those types of shops where I live but I bet 2 hrs awaythat Kelowna may have a few.

[smartme]

I think the dealerships take over an hour because most of their Xentry machines are usually on the fritz. The so-called technicians, according to my neighbour, don't realize that the Compacts are actually Windows tablets, and that the muxes are ultra- sensitive, and always powered while connected to the car, even if the ignition is off. Apparently they just finish up whatever they're doing and unplug everything. On any given day, more than half the dealership's Compacts and muxes are inop with TR numbers.

Makes sense. The service adviser that I talked to today at MB made it sound like it is a very big deal to do and extremely complicated. He didn't sound encouraging

[Alex]

If you know what a properly adjusted clutch feels like, AND it was in correct actuator adjustment last time it was computer adjusted, you can adjust by feel. In a nutshell, take up all the slack in the rod and preload it a touch. Push it hard toward the clutch fork, allow it to back out holding just a bit of force in. Test drive. If the engagement seems too abrupt let it back out a bit more, if it engages late push it in more. As long as it feels right it is. Much easier to get the correct feel if you can drive a manual car. I think that with minimal throttle input it should creep at about 1100 RPM. 1000 is too abrupt, 1200 too loose. If you can't get the correct feel with no slack in the rod it is time for a computer teach-in.And like everyone else here says, keep it far away from the dealership! Unless you live on Vancouver Island, where Three Point Motors in Victoria do have a good reputation for actually fixing it properly instead of just changing lots of parts you don't need, and leaving bolts loose. Still expensive, but they do good work

[smartme]

That's very good advice, thanks Alex. I right away started it just to see when it starts to creep and just by looking at the tach it seems to always creep at around 1150rpm as best I can guess from the tach reading. So it does seem a little loose so will try and tighten it up a little and see how it goes. Thanks again for that detailed info.

Edited July 26, 2014 by smartme

[smartme]

From standstill to moving it can shift a little abrupt as if the clutch actuator arm is traveling too far to make contact. Could that be the problem? What confuses me is that it is only when moving from a complete stop that it does this.

Edited August 16, 2014 by smartme