communitycomposting Posted December 1, 2015 Posted December 1, 2015 Hello all, Here in Rochester, NY, temperatures get down pretty cold in the winter although you folks north of us feel it even more. As you all know the 450 is slow to heat up on the cold days and as has been recommended to me in person and on these forums, it sounds like a coolant heater will assist in cold-starting in the winter and decrease the length of time it takes to get the engine [and heating system] warm. There have been a number of bits and pieces I've found on the forums, but I'm not as handy as some of you and would really appreciate some more information. I'm hoping if any of you have done this modification that you could give details as to recommended parts, the location of where this part should be installed, and any specs on appropriate wattages for this size vehicle. Details that I've found already - 300 watts + - 5/8" hose Many thanks in advance, Steven Quote
tolsen Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 Stick on or magnet heaters are easiest to fit. OEM heater is not particularly good. I made my own using a towel rail heater fitted inside oil sump. Works fine and rather cheap. http://smartmaniacs.co.uk/forum/the-cars/fortwo-450-sept-1998-oct-2007/870297-diy-sump-oil-pan-heater Kindly note Maniacs forum is having technical problems. Refresh web page to move to next page. I am also working on a coolant heater which will be fitted in tunnel return pipe. This is a bit complicated due to the limited space but I have have high hopes it will turn out a success. Quote
smart142 Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 I would suggest an oil pan heater. Easy to install and helps get the engine up to temp. http://www.amazon.ca/Kats-150w-Silicone-Pad-Heater/dp/B00NIOEYHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449031899&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+pan+heater Quote
yogibbear11 Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 I purchased a silicon pad heater, 150 watts, glued it to the oil pan with permatex. I found it worked well in central BC, and my car started well at -21C. I am now going to look at getting another one for the block, so I can heat the coolant and oil. Will be much better to have both heated. You can also buy the parts to make your own SMART block heater cord if you have the factory block heater. Quote
FlossyTheSmart Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 This thread has a bunch of pictures and recommendations for an actual coolant heater. Installation is far more involved than an oil pan heater, but everything I've heard is that it is infinitely more effective. Quote
CANMAN Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 Useing smart_guys post as a guide I installed the inline coolant heater in a different location! I didn't like the idea of it being beside the fuel tank and only held in with strap ties. Mine is held with the mounting bracket at the forward end of the subframe. Quote
kdubya Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=27422&hl=webasto The ultimate solution is a webasto coolant heater. Its diesel powered, so you don't have to worry about plugging it in. It heats and circulates your entire coolant system until its operating temp, then kicks out until the temp drops. After 10 minutes of running the top of my engine block was 60C. Coolant temp was 70C. This was tested at -20C. Mine has a 3 program timer so I can set it to come on at a certain time, it'll run for 2 hours as needed to keep the car at operating temp. Quote
tolsen Posted December 2, 2015 Posted December 2, 2015 Two hours running on Webasto? Does battery then still have enough juice to turn engine over? For emergencies you can use a kerosene burner. Safe if you keep somebody on fire watch. Was commonly used to heat engines in the olden days. Quote
communitycomposting Posted December 3, 2015 Author Posted December 3, 2015 Thanks to everyone for the responses. This thread has a bunch of pictures and recommendations for an actual coolant heater. Installation is far more involved than an oil pan heater, but everything I've heard is that it is infinitely more effective. The above post looks very involved. I really don't know that I've got the know-how to attempt this, although this seems like a very good way to go. I'm in the States also and wonder about the best heater to get. What do you all think of this one on amazon? I purchased a silicon pad heater, 150 watts, glued it to the oil pan with permatex. I found it worked well in central BC, and my car started well at -21C. I am now going to look at getting another one for the block, so I can heat the coolant and oil. Will be much better to have both heated. You can also buy the parts to make your own SMART block heater cord if you have the factory block heater. Where could a silicon pad heater be applied to heat the coolant safely? This looks like a very straightforward solution. Useing smart_guys post as a guide I installed the inline coolant heater in a different location! I didn't like the idea of it being beside the fuel tank and only held in with strap ties.Mine is held with the mounting bracket at the forward end of the subframe. CANMAN, did you just extend the lines, I take it? How involved did you find this procedure to be? http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=27422&hl=webasto The ultimate solution is a webasto coolant heater. Its diesel powered, so you don't have to worry about plugging it in. It heats and circulates your entire coolant system until its operating temp, then kicks out until the temp drops. After 10 minutes of running the top of my engine block was 60C. Coolant temp was 70C. This was tested at -20C. Mine has a 3 program timer so I can set it to come on at a certain time, it'll run for 2 hours as needed to keep the car at operating temp. kdubya, this is intense. It would take a lot of instruction and hand-holding to make this happen. Looks like a proper solution, for sure! The sound in your video is awesome! Thanks, all. Quote
kdubya Posted December 3, 2015 Posted December 3, 2015 (edited) Two hours running on Webasto? Does battery then still have enough juice to turn engine over? For emergencies you can use a kerosene burner. Safe if you keep somebody on fire watch. Was commonly used to heat engines in the olden days. Totally. I can run 2-3 cycles with no trouble. It can run all day. it doesn't need more than a few minutes to get the car hot, but it will cycle on and off for 2 hours before turning off. It doesn't run full bore for the whole 2 hours. It maybe operates at about 10% to get the smarts 5L of coolant warmed up. Also its far easier to turn over a hot engine. Edited December 3, 2015 by kdubya Quote
CANMAN Posted December 3, 2015 Posted December 3, 2015 I removed the EGR valve and reused the coolant lines from it, you actually have to shorten the lines. However you need to lower the engine to be able to install the Y fitting. I agree webasto is the best solution, but the inline heater cost $100 instead of $2000. Canman Quote
tolsen Posted December 4, 2015 Posted December 4, 2015 I did once consider a Webasto for my Smart Cabrio but quickly ruled against it. Corrosion caused by salt treated wintry roads would quickly ruin such a heater. Main reason is its exposed location under the car. Quote
3UP Posted December 20, 2015 Posted December 20, 2015 Useing smart_guys post as a guide I installed the inline coolant heater in a different location! I didn't like the idea of it being beside the fuel tank and only held in with strap ties. Mine is held with the mounting bracket at the forward end of the subframe. How is this style heater working for you? I read everywhere that this style would not work on a smart, I hope there wrong Quote
CANMAN Posted December 21, 2015 Posted December 21, 2015 It works great, the engine starts easier in the cold weather and you start getting heat out of the heater in about a kilometer instead of about 12 kilometres like an unmodified diesel. I use a timer to turn it on about 1 hour before leaving for work. I wired it into the 110 harness that goes to the battery box, useing the standard pigtail at the front of the car. P.M. me if you want more technical details but I didn't take any more pictures, smart_ guys post had enough pictures to figure it out. Useing the location I did you either have to remove the coolant hoses from the EGR (or delete the EGR) and reuse them to hook up the heater, or buy the hose with the 90 deg. bend in it. There isn't enough room to use 90 deg. fittings, the picture I posted shows the heater with the subframe lowered, once it's back in place, the heater is really close to subfloor. Canman Quote
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