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This blog to be referred to once you have properly diagnosed a faulty crankshaft sensor (2005 - 2006 smart cdi) model only. 

 

Follow the diagrams. 

Note it was not an easy task but "NOTHING" else was needed to be removed in order to replace the crankshaft sensor. 

A good flash light is a must.

You will also need to raise the rear of the vehicle to gain access from the bottom. 

(If you are a shop and have a lift it will simplify things)

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The most difficult part was removing the connector from the sensor. 

I was able to remove it with the sensor then use the long nose pliers to squeeze and separate the sensor from the connector. There is not very much room at all and the harness is short, therefor the use of 2 long nose pliers was needed. 

Edited by Crusin
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I hope this was helpful. 

 

Symptom were :

hard starting / stalling at low rpms / intermittent bucking while under light accel / no start for 1 to 5 minutes. 

( All this without setting any codes )

 

Diagnosis :

Finally set a hard code and engine light stayed on. 

P0335

 

Oem German made part is approx $52 Canadian + taxes almost anywhere online. 

 

Mercedes is asking $190 for the same part. 

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

WOW!!! Crusin has my respect! His pictures and explanations are awesome!

And Tolsen must be a magician!!!

 

I had one hell of a time trying to remove the electrical connection. Must be my thick uncoordinated fingers.

I eventually removed the I/C fan, the I/C, and lowered the engine to gain access.

 

I'm just glad I got the sensor replaced and am hoping that solves the problem!

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On ‎2017‎-‎05‎-‎14 at 5:41 AM, tolsen said:

There is an other method here:  

Both are fiddly procedures and won't work if sensor is stuck in its bore in which case transmission must come out.

 

Tolsen is right again ''Got it out in seven minutes. I bet it will take 50 times longer on a Canadian Smart due to EGR cooler making access very difficult from above.''

So 7x50 = 350 mins. I got it done in about 300 mins - good guesstimate!

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  • 4 years later...

Hmmm.....you better find a good warm place you can work on it.....this is a nasty hard to get to job, changing that sensor.  No sugar coating this one, sorry.  Difficulty will come in the way of frustration imho.
IMHO, best to drop sub-frame or lift car up to allow easy access.  That is easy so to speak but still nasty to get to sensor.

Yes the sensor will act up possibly at first and do what you describe, OR it will simply fail and say nope, not starting period.

I don't remember anyone having an easy fix or time changing one out. Some get seized in and require much force to free the grip.  I've changed 2 and both fought me, both on my own cars. One was with engine out which was cheating I know...lol. 

Good luck and please keep us posted.....it may help spraying plenty of penetrating fluids around the area a few days before starting if you can?  

 

Sorry.

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5 minutes ago, Willys said:

Good luck and please keep us posted.....it may help spraying plenty of penetrating fluids around the area a few days before starting if you can? 

 

Thank you.👍‍ I removed the post because I saw it was an instruction blog and thought maybe not the place to post the question. Started a new topic for my issue.

Thought it was not going to be to bad of a job until you filled me in....!

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