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Hi, very frustrated with my little car right now.  Both doors have decided to stop working... meaning they will not open up from either the outside or the inside.  So I have to crawl through the end gate.  The door handle both will not work and I can see the cable under the handle when I pull on the handle out.  What do I do!   Can not find a video to help and the normal panel removal procedure to access the door cable needs to remove things on the door first.

HELP!

 

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Replacing outer door handle cable is easy. Replacing inner door handle cable requires removal of door card and outer door panel. 

Smart only sells outer door handle cable with door handle. Inner cable is available and not expensive.  

 

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did everything break at the same time?   the door has two cables.   the interior plastic handle is known to break,  the exterior cable is known to seize.  

if this all happened at the same time,   i am wondering if the doors are somehow still locked?

Edited by Sydney
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Wondering how to get into my smart car with both doors seized and one interior cable is broke but cannot get in.  The car seems to unlock but can neither open from inside or outside.  Looking for a solution on how I can get into door panel to change out the cables?  Anyone?

Thanks

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if the interior plastic handle broke,  you should still be able to grab the cable with a pair of pliers and pull the cable to open the door.

needle nose pliers work best,  just slip them under the metal ball on the end of the cable.

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14 hours ago, Chicklet said:

Wondering how to get into my smart car with both doors seized and one interior cable is broke but cannot get in.  The car seems to unlock but can neither open from inside or outside.  Looking for a solution on how I can get into door panel to change out the cables?  Anyone?

Thanks

It's spring out west already isn't it? So you should be able to remove the outside door skin if you can get the plastic warm enough so it doesn't get damaged as you flex it. Youtube how to do it, there must be someone making a video on it, they do everything else. Then once that's off you should be able to get at the cables, no...?   Can you still open rear hatch? If so maybe you can carefully pry off inner door skin without damaging it to get at the cables? I don't remember where the bottom screws are to know for sure if you can get the bottom out while door is closed, I seem to doubt it. You need to get at the door latch area or behind it so to speak.....then manually pull cables to open door......are you sure the cable is broken and not just seized as they do seize frequently......if seized, soak in oil and wiggle until free then cycle oil down cable etc.

Sorry not more help.  It's freezing here at the moment so not going out just yet....will check when i do though.

 

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If your windows will go down you can look down into the back of the door, use a flash light and you may need to remove the rubber seal to see if you can see the door latch.

If you can use something to hook the bar that unlatches the door you might get them open that way.

GM's of the 80's the latches rusted up and if you tried to open a locked door the latch jammed  so you couldn't open or unlock the door.

I fixed a lot of them decades ago by going down the top then once the door was open take the panel off and make proper repairs.

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4 hours ago, tolsen said:

Go to Evilution.  https://www.evilution.co.uk/

 

Search "Break in".

 

Scroll down and click on "Break In - Fortwo 450".

 

You will need to pay the annual subscription to view the details currently around £15.

Thank you.  I had looked in "evolution"  but did not put the right words in.  I unfastened the outside door panel but will have to make a jig of some sort as my fingers are to short.  I will let you know how I make out.  Thanks.

-Chicklet

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  • 3 years later...

Where are you guys ordering new door handles from? Technically I just need the plastic clips that hold the cable end, but I doubt you can buy just those pieces. On the one door I need the cable clip that stays in the door and on the other door I need the clip that locates the cable as part of the handle assembly. I also need a battery cover since mine seems to have gone missing.

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Hmmmm.....I just scrapped a battery cover that big bulky piece housing the pump and GOO etc.....sorry...I simply flatten the carpet out after installing rubber floor mats under carpet to stop any shorting of battery terminals etc.....gives the passenger far more leg room so to speak.  As for the door pieces, I suspect the only way would be go to dealership and see if they sell them by themselves or IF seperately?  The dealership may surprise you, it has me. Also not always the most expensive for such parts.  IF they do not then it's a scrapyard hunt I expect.  Not a bad way to spend a day or so....lol.  Also check FB marketplace and or EBAY as there are many who break Smart cars and sell parts, not usually the cheapest route but you never know?

 

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2 hours ago, Willys said:

Hmmmm.....I just scrapped a battery cover that big bulky piece housing the pump and GOO etc.....sorry...I simply flatten the carpet out after installing rubber floor mats under carpet to stop any shorting of battery terminals etc.....gives the passenger far more leg room so to speak.  As for the door pieces, I suspect the only way would be go to dealership and see if they sell them by themselves or IF seperately?  The dealership may surprise you, it has me. Also not always the most expensive for such parts.  IF they do not then it's a scrapyard hunt I expect.  Not a bad way to spend a day or so....lol.  Also check FB marketplace and or EBAY as there are many who break Smart cars and sell parts, not usually the cheapest route but you never know?

 

 

Dodgy that. It is an integral part of the crash mechanism.

 

It also leads to passengers whinging as they slide forward in the seat.

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33 minutes ago, Mjolinor said:

 

Dodgy that. It is an integral part of the crash mechanism.

 

It also leads to passengers whinging as they slide forward in the seat.

It also is too difficult to get in and out just to get at the battery during the very frozen months of the year.....also the seat is on an adjustable track...lol.   As for a crash, the whole size of the vehicle in North America makes it a dodgey issue .....imho....lol.
To each their own as usual....if you don't need to get at the things under the wedge of foam then that may be a different issue, or carry long legged folks around...?

 

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I personally would like annual testing like we had back home, it would get rid of many of the rust buckets I see driving around. Yes many folks can't afford a nice vehicle etc etc and need one ot get to work etc etc and paying the prices for a rust free mechanically sound vehicle probably wouldn't be something they could swing after their weekly beer run etc etc.
So the short answer is, no we do not. You have to get one when you purchase a vehicle but after that if it runs without blowing clouds of smoke or the floors aren't dragging on the street you are good to go.  Plus they wouldn't check that if you have taken out the battery cover....they would simply go after brakes, lights and pollution related issues, windshield cracks etc....tires...? Thats about it really.  And this is in the wealthiest province, Ontario.....you go to other provinces and far less is required....all depending upon what they think is fit.  

I will also say I nearly smacked the mechanic when he shoved his  two foot long flat screwdriver through the floor in my IMP while doing the MOT and failed it for a hole in the floor boards!!!!    He was a real prick....and should have been smacked for it!  I was young and needed his MOT sticker....or it may have ended up slightly different..lol...or me behind bars....

 

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