Clutch Actuator

[ACSTECH]

Good day all,

I have been having a lot of problems lately. Cleaned the EGR out and the turbo is spooling up again. Been there before so I knew that problem. Six months after buying the car I got the three bars of death once in the middle of an intersection at night so it was not a problem. Turn the car off turn it back on and it worked. This happened often on every couple of months for the next year. Then one day it happened multiple times, eventually I discovered I could drive the car in the standard mode and not have the problem. Now more recently it happens all the time no matter what mode I drive it in, automatic, manual, it happens a lot. I pulled off the actuator to inspect the clutch fork, it is in good condition. So it’s leading me to believe it is the actuator. All electrical connections are good condition no breaks in the wires. Upon taking off the actuator Two bolts broke into the transmission housing. That’s a future me problem. (Yes I soaked it with liquid wrench before hand. I have not washed it enough through the winter and I’ve been breaking quite a few bolts) the actuator mounting flanges also broke and crumbled away. My real issue is if I purchase a new actuator I’ve read in a few places that they are coded to the vehicle. Is this true? Or can I order a new one through eBay from Germany plug it in in align it to the correct position and just go?

 

2005 Smart CDI 110,000km
 

Thank you everyone for the help.

Edited May 29, 2020 by ACSTECH

[LooseLugNuts]

they should just swap out...some people say you need to "teach" it with a star but i never had any problem just manually adjusting by feel

[LooseLugNuts]

rockauto has actuators but they are hefty price at near $800

 

 

i would source a used one and clean/service it before install

[ACSTECH]

Yeah rock auto was fairly pricey, Mercedes was almost $200 cheaper and I can still get one off of eBay brand new from Germany for $400 shipped.

I called around to all the big wreckers I can think of in my area and no one has anything.

[ACSTECH]

Thanks for the reply, I really needed to know if I needed to code to the vehicle. I know if my old BMW 328 even to change the battery I had to take it into the Dealer and have them register the battery to the car or the car would not charge it.

[LooseLugNuts]

1 hour ago, ACSTECH said:

Yeah rock auto was fairly pricey, Mercedes was almost $200 cheaper and I can still get one off of eBay brand new from Germany for $400 shipped.

I called around to all the big wreckers I can think of in my area and no one has anything.

 

 

if you check OARA.com there a way to check inventory of all parts yards that use the system under the parts locator tab ....i dont recall what they would list the actuator under though..

Edited May 29, 2020 by LooseLugNuts

[ACSTECH]

Nothing on OARA. Ordered a new one on eBay. $412 and should be here by June 9th “allegedly”

Thanks for all of your input.

[Willys]

As said above, simply install the new one with a firm pressure against the clutch fork and all should be OK.....then IF needed it can be taught in using a STAR....I have one if you need the service.  I've done mine a few times after a good cleaning etc. BUT, it should work well enough to drive it by manually setting it up. IMHO.

[ACSTECH]

6 hours ago, Willys said:

As said above, simply install the new one with a firm pressure against the clutch fork and all should be OK.....then IF needed it can be taught in using a STAR....I have one if you need the service.  I've done mine a few times after a good cleaning etc. BUT, it should work well enough to drive it by manually setting it up. IMHO.

Absolutely. Thanks. Looks like you are not that far away either. We will see how this goes when it arrives.

[tolsen]

There is little point setting clutch bite point electronically assuming it was done correctly at factory. 

 

Protect clutch actuator from the elements by painting it and applying rubber grease or silicone grease to areas where rubber boot seals against rod and actuator body. 

 

Grease outer socket of release fork and preload clutch actuator as per Sachs’ service info. 

[ACSTECH]

Ok, $460 Cdn delivered from Lithuania and 4 days to get here. Not too shabby. Painted the end of the actuator, greased the inside really well and had some high temp grease and added it onto the end of the actuator and the clutch fork pocket. Tightened it up with some pressure against the clutch fork. Went for a spin. Really gave it to her trying to make the 3 bars come back. Cannot do it. Manual or auto. Works great.

the only thing o have noticed is I have a hard time getting up to 120 km/h. Yes, limit is 100 but the car is not doing what it should, could anything be related to the work I have performed? I shifted it into neutral before I got to my driveway and it coasted right along. Nothing dragging. My alignment is messed up more than a Kardashian reality program. Maybe after I have that fixed it will be good?

 

Everyone, thank you once again for your support. The Dorkmobile rides again.

[Willys]

Good to hear, that it's working again. Yes I'd get the alignment straightened out and see then IF that doesn't solve it, maybe try a reteach of clutch actuator and transmission...?   But all the reteach does is tell the trans exactly how many revolutions each gear position is on the gear drum to get each gear perfect. Basically the same with the clutch  I think.....If you are in a gear somewhat you are still in that gear. So being slightly out would it mean you can't get full speeds?   I'd go after injectors being plugged up and or EGR plugged etc or your Intercooler damaged...first   but that is up to you. I will say for the cost of buying a sonic cleaner from Amazon, $200 and a set of new nozzles for the injectors $...I don't know at the moment how much but the price has fallen drastically...I think?   The performance difference is very noticeable!

All stock new or cleaner or eliminated parts......emulator for the EGR , intercooler cleaned and or fixed, and new injector nozzles.
After rebuilding my engine the amount of black gunk internally in intake places was shocking compared to a gasoline engine. IMHO.

Also I noticed leaks around my intake manifold seals...and they are easy to swap out for new .

 

[Leadwing]

1 hour ago, ACSTECH said:

 

the only thing o have noticed is I have a hard time getting up to 120 km/h.

 

 

Do you have your car remapped?  Both of mine have the remap and get up to 140 kph with no problems.  Even before the remap, they both could reach 140 without issues.  Reaching 120 should be an easy task on a level road.

[ACSTECH]

EGR is spotless, brake kleen and also the ultrasonic took care of that. Have not noticed anything wrong with the inter cooler.

 

i have see people throw around the term remapping, is that dealer or performance shop work? Looked up the info online and evilution talks about buying software online. What’s my best option?

 

Back in December just before Christmas I took my car to Mercedes Benz Barrie in a snowstorm to have the alignment done. The car came out straight but the steering wheel was cockeyed because they couldn’t “do a road test” because the weather was too bad. As soon as I got on the road I discovered that the steering wheel was still crooked and it needed to go back in. I played phone tag with one of the service reps for a couple weeks afterwards and then the virus hit and I have not been able to get it in. Now that things are opening up I’m gonna have to try and see if they’ll come good for fixing it.

[Leadwing]

1 hour ago, ACSTECH said:

 

i have see people throw around the term remapping, is that dealer or performance shop work? Looked up the info online and evilution talks about buying software online. What’s my best option?

 

 

A remap can be done easily by non-MB persons.  "Uncle Glenn" in London, Ontario does it quickly in about half an hour.  There may be someone closer to you who can do the same thing.  I'm not sure if "Willys" has that equipment, but I'm pretty sure that he does.  Contacting either of these members by PM (just click on their names) and ask.  Uncle Glenn did both of mine.  Makes a whole new driving experience.

 

Taking a smart to Mercedes these days is like tossing your money down a well.  Most dealerships don't care about them because the buyer didn't spend close to $100,000 buying a car at their place of business.  My few experiences with MB was, for the most part, not a happy one.  They couldn't even balance the tires.  They kept telling me that "This is the way they are supposed to be."  I might have believed them if I didn't have a second smart at home that ran smoothly down the road at any speed.

That said, I did have one good experience when I had some 'recall' work done on my a/c unit.  I was looked after properly and was given a brand new smart as a daily driver until the work on mine was done.  That was the good part.  The bad part was, three months later, it was back to blowing warm air.

[ACSTECH]

Second Class Citizens definitely when we go to the dealerships. I’m only going with the hopes that they don’t charge to fix what they didn’t fix before. Otherwise I would go to Canadian Tire for an alignment. I will reach out to the members you quoted there. Fist full of dollars and Timmies gets someone a long ways.

[Willys]

I don't have the re-mapping software etc.....just the STAR....sorry.

I have a re-map from Glenn in my good car and another as good from who knows where in my beater by the way it runs.
But I still swear by those new nozzles....just saying....ask the others who did them

 

[Leadwing]

4 hours ago, ACSTECH said:

Second Class Citizens definitely when we go to the dealerships. I’m only going with the hopes that they don’t charge to fix what they didn’t fix before. Otherwise I would go to Canadian Tire for an alignment. I will reach out to the members you quoted there. Fist full of dollars and Timmies gets someone a long ways.

 

I can understand the hope of having them fix what they didn't properly fix the first time around.  Canadian Tire would be a reasonable alternative, but for alignments, I would search out a tire specialty shop.  For me, it is Aylmer Tire but that's way too far for you to come. LOL

 

Perhaps a day-trip to Uncle Glenn is in order for a remap (yes, I know how far it is from where you are to where he is) and a stop at the nearest Timmies or McD's for a coffee (double cream, single sugar)  As you said,little things like that go a long way.

[tolsen]

For wheel alignment, just invest in TrackAce. 

http://www.trackace.co.uk/

[ACSTECH]

1 hour ago, tolsen said:

For wheel alignment, just invest in TrackAce. 

http://www.trackace.co.uk/

I saw that on amazon a while ago. Figured it was some cheap piece of garbage and didn’t look any further after thinking to myself “neat tho”.

if you say it is worth Investing in, I’m doing it tonight.

 

[ACSTECH]

3 hours ago, Willys said:

I don't have the re-mapping software etc.....just the STAR....sorry.

I have a re-map from Glenn in my good car and another as good from who knows where in my beater by the way it runs.
But I still swear by those new nozzles....just saying....ask the others who did them

 

Have the airbag light on. May need to make a deal with you after covid.

[tolsen]

8 hours ago, ACSTECH said:

I saw that on amazon a while ago. Figured it was some cheap piece of garbage and didn’t look any further after thinking to myself “neat tho”.

if you say it is worth Investing in, I’m doing it tonight.

 

I came accross TrackAce many years ago when sourcing parts for an identical laser tracking system I had had in my head for years then finding out someone had already done it and brought it to market.

 

TrackAce measures total toe as does all wheel aligning kits costing less than £3000.  To make 4 wheel alignment possible and to easily balance toe each side I have complemented TrackAce with a cheap laser spirit level and a lean to target.

 

Will follow up with photos of this setup soon.  Got plenty of spare time now due to the Corona situation.

[BWM]

I just use a tape measure with a line on the tires with a White paint pen.

Measure front n back and get it 1/8" shorter in the front then the back.

Last yr I replaced wheel bearing upper n lower ball joints and all the tie rods on a buddies Jeep Wrangler with monster murder tires and set it this way.

Told him it was just a rough setting till he could get it into the alignment shop.

Guy there put it on the rack and said it was within 1mm of perfect.

Not bad for a back yard job.