· #1 Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) · Report post Greeting. I trust all who see this are safe. An introduction. Name is Chris R. Live in south Florida USA. Not from here originally. I am retired and good with cars and wires. The Smart was something different. I found it in a wreckers yard in 2018. Car was in super good shape for a 2006 fortwo CDI. Story I got was it belonged to an old man. The old man went shopping at a local market and died from a heart attack. No family. The car sat a few weeks and the city had the on contract towing company drag it off the lot, no keys. I saw in the wreckers yard, and asked about it, paid 1200$ US for the car, a new key (I had no idea what that take), title, running and dropped off at my door. I got the car dropped buy a roll back at my home 2 months later with a title and a new console they got from a different wrecker with a key. They had no idea how the SAM worked either. So one thing lead to another. I sent the SAM, ECU, cluster a spare SAM and ECU to SOS Diagnostics, Oregon USA. They first spare SAM I got off of eBay was bad. So I had to buy another one (this is all their requirements to do the work). A month later I had the programed SAM and ECU back for close to 1100$ US. I took a month to get to it. Last week I put in the ECU, and SAM. A few things. Someone stole the radio while it was in the wrecker's lot, I had a locksmith with a STAR computer. he could not teach in the key. That's when I called SOS. So I put in the SAM and ECU, the immobilizer released and the newly programmed key unlock the door and back window. I get lights, wipers, window washer. I turn the key, I hear what I think is a fuel pump and a click in the SAM. Nothing from the starter at all. The dash, I don't see the transmission indicator, I get a blinking key non stop. a wrench and some other things. I can run the shifter through the gears and hear the motor moving under the car. I have been talking to Kane over at Evilution. He thinks SOS didn't program the ECU right. SOS asked me to use my universal ODB2 reader and software to see if the ECU was there. I can't see the ECU. Kane looked at a video I took when I turned the key and he saw I had a gas gauge, he said that means the SAM is talking to the ECU. I have made sure the battery is 13 volts + DC. I put a meter on the blue wire that should energize the starter and get nothing out of it when I am turning the key. I am wondering the if CAN ran through the radio and is broke due to cut wires? Any ideas how to further check the SAM ECU?? Can I put 12 volts on the blue wire when I am turning the key to see if the starter turns. I noticed tonight that I have 11.5 volts on the red power wire coming into the SAM. The battery is 13 + volts?? I know I am asking a hundred Please forgive me. I hope someone can give me a good idea what to do. If I can prove to SOS they did not program the ECU right they will replace it they told me. Please forgive me. This is the link to the video I took of the dash when I turned the key. I hoping some of you seasoned Smart owners can tell me what it all means and maybe give a good idea what to try. Thanks much. https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcvws.icloud-content.com%2FB%2FARXLuWH2UX5m275RCNHuj_DI8keEAZmrbxEI--WEM9Ni2D3_91lSx3GC%2F%24{f}%3Fo%3DAppMY9vKWtRVRhnTnmg4Kazq7WgkLwoJVKg8RsfYF3hi%26v%3D1%26x%3D3%26a%3DCAogvWQtBt-8P7e_mgME1PWSaT4ryujHhV5u_p8mxiJrTS4SeBCttvGF9S4Yrcbs2f4uIgEAKgkC6AMA_3L1-jBSBMjyR4RaBFLHcYJqJpfR0tzqeN4OAAbKDwlzBqjdXhV_beJZ1K5Azdju69Kugr5QjqjFciaTzPA87XK5CDt75DgQDUMlMDw7aBVXFyYfIR2-hxE_Bgz39RyamQ%26e%3D1614559257%26fl%3D%26r%3D6C17AACB-304E-47CA-AAB3-12B69668ED2A-1%26k%3D%24{uk}%26ckc%3Dcom.apple.largeattachment%26ckz%3DFB018733-47F0-48AB-8B5E-E700B7F661A1%26p%3D68%26s%3DEviE4IW-A_HJWIckbUBI7GCqjG4&uk=inVpVVsvYkGxjaBkVUm8yg&f=IMG_2756.MOV&sz=74147851 Edited April 20, 2022 by jwight corrected car model to 450 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #2 Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) · Report post First thing to try is press the unlock button on the remote and then try starting car. The flashing key symbol is letting you know the immobilizer is on. You need the cluster to show N where the key symbol is to start. The two wrenches indicate you are due for the “B” service, do a search here for A and B services and how to reset the service indicator. Also a 2006 smart is going to be a model 450 for when you are doing research here. By the way welcome to the club. Nigel Edited January 30, 2021 by Nigel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #3 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post Can you post the last 6 digits of the VIN? One of our members has a lot of information on most 450's that came to North America. Perhaps you could include the colour and whether it is a Pure, Pulse or Passion. This can be found on the little triangular piece of plastic where the antenna is mounted. See the circled portion of the attached photo. to the club 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #4 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post Nigel, thanks, okay your right, 450. Got confused over on Evilution. No go on the unlock (locks do unlock, get in in, foot on the break, key in and turn key. Still get the flashing key and dinging). I really think SOS did me wrong. Key flashes non stop. Interior light comes on and goes off proper too. Going to send them back to SOS unless a miracle happens this weekend. will look up B service and how to clear it. Thanks for the warm welcome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #5 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post As Nigel mentioned, the flashing key indicates that the immobilizer is on. If your key has good batteries and is mated properly with the ignitions system, it should turn the flashing key off. This needs to be done before the key is turned on. The minus 40,200kms tells me that you are either overdue by 40,200kms for service or someone didn't know how to reset the service reminder. To reset the service reminder, 1. Switch on ignition. (But do not start car!) 2. Select maintenance indicator (so it's in the display). 3.Within the first 4 seconds, switch off the ignition while holding the reset button down.(Maintenance should remain in the display). 4. Continue to hold the service button (button on the left of the cluster) while you switch the ignition on. 5. Continue to hold the service button depressed for another 10 seconds. After that the oil change interval display is reset. (you should see it go from whatever your countdown showed to the reset value of 8,000kms.) 6. After completing this task, the display shows the remaining distance (startup distance) for the next maintenance interval. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #6 Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) · Report post Pulse, 314864. It's that blue. Thanks. Been trying to figure it out on my own over at Evilution. kane is pretty good at answering his emails. But no forum. Was hoping for some crowd help. Thanks for looking at the vid both of you. I have two new keys supposedly mated right. Both do the same thing. They will unlock the car and back window. Edited January 30, 2021 by CRasman 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #7 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post For a quick description about the A & B services, the following will help a bit. One wrench showing means you will be due for an oil & flter change at the end of the countdown. Two wrenches showing means that you will be due for a more invasive inspection, which should include but not limited to battery check (condition and connection), oil & filter, brake inspection (taking the wheels off and measuring the wear on the pads and discs), lubricating door handles and other mechanisms, tire condition and inflation, insuring all lights are working and more at the end of the countdown. The reset button is located on the left side of the instrument cluster cover. (See photo, below) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #8 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post Welcome to the site, you are in the right place for anything concerning the 2005-2006 CDI models IMHO. By far the best site on the planet as Canada seems to have gotten the majority of them it seems...Love them.... IMHO....make up your own STAR system and get solid advice about how to do this......it will save you thousands of $$$$ in the long run. Plus you will be able to do most everything yourself. There are some threads here outlining that process here I think. I have detailed my purchases before for others. Sending your Speedo,SAM and ECU off along with keys and immoblizer system is rediculous...imho. You need the star with the car to easily reset keys to the car. All 3 computers need to be in a working car I think also to get them to be synchronized to speak with each other. I have done all these things but never away from the host vehicle.....so doing it remotely seems impossible....for me any way. But I'm not a computer hacker either. The service numbers came up from the newer speedo if that was replaced as it has a steam green bezel in it..? For what you spent sending your items to SOS you could have made up a STAR....sorry. I'll start by saying, check every grounding pin you can find on the vehicle between each eyelet connected to it for corrosion. Then check main grounding strap running from engine to bodywork on the rear of engine bay. Now go after small white plug in battery well if your car has one....Canadian cars do....so not sure about yours? It will help where the car originated from to know what it will have or who imported it to the USA. One company imported a bunch into the US I think from Canada and can't remember the company name but it was a 3 letter name I think? Can you take some pictures of the car inside and out to show us what it has or what it may not have? There is a registry of all cars know to us on this site, maybe it is already in there and that would be very helpful. Also open up the SAM to check for the usual bad solder joints we find on almost every SAM with issues. Also take the ECU out and very carefully look at the pins for the plug connections....3 or 4 will go green. You can also open up the ECU to peek inside to look for any water ingress signs....BEWARE there are capacitors which hold a charge and will fry it'self if shorted out, ask me how I learned this ...augh! But a careful opening will be OK, just don't short in any way the pins. IF Your car came from Canada it may still have the transport Canada silver box near the battery area that again goes green internally causing major issues. Do all these things after disconnecting your battery of course...!!!! The immobalizer system is under the gear stick so to speak and can also go bad.....but I haven't had that joy yet. Touch wood. Reprograming keys in a car takes minutes once you have a STAR. What they charge to do keys alone up here would pay for a STAR in less than half a dozen keys.!! As stated above, your main issue is to get the locked key symbol off your dash....then it's a slow meticulous job going through all the other issues with these cars. BUT, once it's running well, they are a smile a mile as they say.....mine averages 80MPGs...and I also live on the flat lands, near water, not mountains. After re-reading your post a few times, it sounds like the speedo isn't programed to speak with the SAM or ECU......the locksmith with the STAR should be able to reteach these three to talk to each other. It takes me a long time to do it as I rarely use my STAR that deeply to remember how to do it, but IF I can do it, anyone can. BUT....IF your car was imported by the company officially into the USA then maybe they re-programed the SAMs,ECU and speedo's differently than our Canadian versions...? Requiring more than just a STAR to turn their versions on? I'm sure someone here will know this information. There is also a US bases Smart Car site but they don't do much CDI version vehicles. Or at least I didn't find another site anywhere as good as this one for CDI's. Get in contact with Stickman007 here as he is a wealth of info and knows most all bout the electronics of our cars. Wild is another electrical wizard. Sorry for a long winded post....hope it helps....Again welcome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #9 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post Looked up the serial number, car came from Quebec to Florida. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #10 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post All, thanks. I’m very grateful for the help. I am all for making a STAR. Had been looking on the net. I’ll look here later today (8:25 local). I am a retired system engineer. Something I can do. I noticed I have 13.5 at the battery and 11 into the SAM. I cranked down on the ground bolt by the battery. No help. Battery is in the floor by the passengers feet. Lots of Canadians down here. eBay, 2010, wow. Car is in good shape. Very little rust. Probably summer only in QC and not much rust down here. Just lots snd lots of rain in the summer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #11 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post I’m curious how the car was legally titled and registered there… the CDI wasn’t legal to import into the USA, if memory serves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #12 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post I’ll bet some license offices if you walk in with an ownership and a bill of sale and pay the state and local taxes you are good to go. If it is a state that requires inspections probably not. I know Glenn has mentioned shipping 450 parts to the USA in the past. Nigel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #13 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post So a Canadian car, so you are in our backyard solving issues wise, far better than trying to guess what the importer did to it. Get that STAR, you will not regret it! Kiss all the leaches away.... Now you can start the corrosion searching, the white and greenies will be there somewhere I'll bet! Salt water is a killer....wonder if has been sunk at any point...? Pull the carpets and have a peek and snap some pics......we all like pics...lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #14 Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) · Report post I doubt it (dunked). It did live within 5 miles of the Gulf of Mexico for a long time. I’ve had the mats and rugs out a while. No rust. Under Is very clean with very little rust at all. I have a good title. My guess is a Canadian snow bird brought it here. No signs of tow brackets (like an RV TOWED) . Getting out there soon to hunt down the positive terminal block behind the dash. I got an idea to take the positive wire off the SAM, the battery and put a meter to on it to look at resistance. See if the positive line is all good, where the voltage drop is. I assume the SAM needs 12/13 volts and not 11. I cleaned the battery terminals and the ground bolt by the battery. I’ll clear the service code. I’ll go over the terminals again. I have a perfect old laptop, a good copy of Windows 7. Work on the rest later. Thanks all. Get you all better pics. It’s pretty sad right now. I need to clean it up on the outside, just want it running first. Edited January 30, 2021 by CRasman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #15 Posted January 30, 2021 · Report post You need to research when you have the time, later tonight...lol....all threads pertaining to no start etc to see all the silly little nagging reasons these little cars stop working. As I said above, many are ground related....that ground pin you found for the neg terminal, well there are many all around the car...all with a good chance to be corroded. The one in the engine bay is up under the front left of centre lip...all have brown wiring attached to them. Good luck happy hunting. It's interesting to see what a car starts out looking like to the finished product....for us folks stuck inside during the frozen winter months, we will take it all...lol. 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #16 Posted January 31, 2021 · Report post Well I got the service codes cleared (thank you!). Started cleaning wire connections up. Vacuumed the car out too. I have to find the end of the negative wire back by the engine. I still am thinking the ECU is not talking. I pulled out the connectors and sprayed them with cleaner and made sure none of the pins on the ECU are bent. I still have 12.5 out of the battery, and 11.7 from positive battery terminal to the frame. There she is. Sunburnt and on 3 wheels. I still might change the ECU back to my supposedly programed backup and I need to get the the gear selector plug. I get it running I will get new tires on it. More tomorrow. Thanks all. 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #17 Posted March 31, 2021 · Report post I’m back! Good news. I had a lot of help to get here. Thanks all. Keys have been taught in . All the cars systems seem good. Door locks have always worked from the fob. I had a continuous blinking key and the dots of the gas gauge. Still no start. Issue now is (in neutral, foot on brake) I turn the key I hear what I think is the starter relay clicking. Nothing else. I do hear the transmission move through gears and the digits on the dash go with it. I’ve read all sorts of things like corrosion in the alternator or the starter. The ground strap, and I bet that’s part of its. I loose a volt when I test from the positive of the battery to the block. I did take a jumper cable and bonded the block to the negative terminal then I get the same voltage I get up front. A good 12.5+. Any idea , any further plan of attack I would be great full Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #18 Posted March 31, 2021 · Report post shoot some booster cables from battery ground right to the block then try and start it if it cranks you definitely need to fix the engine ground 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #19 Posted March 31, 2021 · Report post also maybe try to wrench it over and make sure the engine isnt seized...good time to make sure the alt isnt stuck too 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #20 Posted March 31, 2021 · Report post Will do . Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #21 Posted April 3, 2022 · Report post I was making comments in another thread. Got the car moved to concrete, jacked her way up. Put a small car transmission jack under the engine. Took off the rear valance, the aluminum crossbar, the inside of the passenger side (right) wheel well cover. Took the two back sub frame bolts out, swapped them for the two short subframe bolts. lowered the engine. Then I found I left the E brake on, let it off and the engine went bang, dropping a few more inches. . Got up top and found out my instructions from the other site on how to change the starter are way wrong. my bad. I did find two sets of videos on YouTube on how to do it one is a gas car. the other is new, surprising as that is. Same 06. .He unbolted the AC hoses and took out the intercooler to get to the bolts. That makes me think this engine is not an 06. Mine is different like I will explain. Maybe a year one way or another?? I unblotted the AC compressor and flipped it (and hoses) over to get to the starter. I had spun the AC compressor and it got stiff. I thinking some Freon is still in the system. I happen to be a certified AC tech and don't want to mess it up. I would have drawn down the system, but my gear is at another shop and this car is home. The water pump is in the way now. I am taking that off next. I am going to post some pics here to show you what I got. The starter is up against the back of the water pump so that has to go to move the starter back. The gas engine instructions show the intercooler having to come out. it says both starter bolts are in the intercooler duct. Not true on this CDI. The forward most bolt is out front of the intercooler duct and I should be able to wrench that out no problem from the drivers side. I have the idea to cut a small hole in the intercooler plastic duct, Stick in a socket on a long extension (with a magnetic bit in it) pull the back starter bolt out and fish it out the dict. Worse case I have to take the intercooler off, but that is a lot harder than the gas engine with all the CDI gear in front of it. I am waiting for next weekend to dig back in. Been busy. I am pushing 61, way out of shape and this is freeking hurting me lol. If I could have afforded a shop ( and found one I trusted) I might have taken it there. Then again. the reason I like doing my own work is I know it's done right and all I paid for is on the engine. I want to replace the water hoses. The alternator spins just fine. The two idlers need to be replaced. One is stiff. Along the way both my electric windows snapped what I bet is monofilament lines. All on the list once I hear it run. The engine did spin too when used a socket, short extension and a breaker bar. In the picture of the top of the engine is the waste gate (I guess). it was not seized thankfully. Like before I get a click out of the solenoid. Nothing at all from the starter. I ran jumpers strait to the starter and get nothing. I have not metered the windings, but I bet they are open. My pics are all way too big for this forum. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jc5bxfmu69ubuf8/AADA5nUQdJvYHXEuy4b1-2-ia?dl=0 if you don't mind. I like to order new hoses, idlers, belts. I started looking for the one hose since it's part number is in the picture. I keep getting hits on Mercedes parts, with no reference of Smart. Pelican has it, but I probably have to call them. I did get the starter (God I hope it's right). Battery is next as the new battery in put in it 4 years ago has died sitting dead all these years. I have been using a bigger battery for testing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #22 Posted April 3, 2022 · Report post Deep into it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #23 Posted April 3, 2022 · Report post welcome to the wonderful world of smart car repairs lol mine was in worse shape when i bought it ...took me a whole winter to put it back together because it was my first one and i wasnt the guy who took it apart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #24 Posted April 3, 2022 · Report post Thanks for the kind words. That all me. The car was all together, looked good when I bought it. Had no key. I had no idea. I did ask the guy for a key. He got me a key, from a junk yard. Fast forward to about 2 years ago. Called a ‘locksmith’ who said he knew the cars. He didn’t know how to teach in a new key. So I find a bunch out in the NW. They made me buy a spare SAM and ECU. Spend a bunch of money. Get a set of (supposed) programmed SAM, ECU, dash and keys. Put it all together, 3 bars. So I find this place. Some super smart generous people. Fix it all. Complain to the bunch in the in the NW, get my $ back! . Then a click. One thing after another and I’m here. Hopefully next weekend it will run. I’m not giving up. No how , no way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
· #25 Posted April 3, 2022 · Report post That is a 450 diesel. I've changed the starter a number of times on that type. Once the engine is lowered, like you have done, I remove the water inlet jacket to the water pump.It's held on by 2 T10 bolts. No need to remove the AC compressor. The starter is held in by 2 long bolts, T12 if I remember correctly, that are under the intercooler. One of them is visible. The other one is under the plastic intercooler shroud. I cheat and cut and snap off enough of the plastic to access the bolt. It's tight in there but can be done. Next is to disconnect the battery and then take off the 2 wires to the starter. The starter needs to be pushed forward and up to remove. There is very little room but this method has worked for me at least 5 times. I don't like the job because it usually eats up 5-6 hours and can get frustrating as well as skinning a few knuckles. Good luck! 2 people like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
