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cheapohubby

Traction control light always on...

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The traction control light (triangle with exclamation mark) comes on when I turn on the ignition, and stays on solid.  Been doing it for a long time.  Replaced the rings (heavily rusted).  I've driven the car a couple of times since, and it doesn't seem to want to clear itself.  Also tried disconnecting the battery to see if that would clear it; no effect.  Scangauge isn't showing any codes, but I'm guessing it doesn't support showing/clearing ESP codes.  

Just wondering if anyone has suggestions on what I can check on my own?  I'd rather avoid making a trip to Halifax to get the dealer to scan for codes; both because of distance and rising covid cases.  I do have a parts car, but I'm guessing that swapping sensors is a bit of a pain.

Or does anybody have a recommendation for a diagnostic tool that's known to scan/clear ESP codes?

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Can somebody confirm what the correct cable for the Scangauge should look like?  One of the posts I read indicated the cable should have all the pins?  The cable I've been using has pins missing.  I remember them shipping me a second cable when I bought it, but can't recall ever looking at the difference.  So it's entirely possible that they either shipped me two of the wrong cable, or I managed to swap them at some point (more likely). So far, haven't had any luck in trying to find the other cable.

 

I think I also ran across a suggestion that using the wrong cable could potentially disable traction control; so maybe that's my issue with the indicator?  I got the impression that if that was the case, the only way to re-enable it was to hook it up to the Star diagnostic?

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is there any beeping noises?..and do your brake lights work?

 

just asking because one time i had ice in my brake light switch and it would disable the stability controls

 

 

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No beeping noises; haven't checked brake lights.  Ice wouldn't be a problem in this case; too warm.

 

I'm a wee bit confused on the Scangauge cable; found another discussion http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/24882-scangauge-newbie/ where Bessy shows a picture of the replacement cable she received (identical to the one I have here), and then MikeT comments that it's the correct cable because the non-CAN cable has all their pins.

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Checked the brake lights; seem to be operating normally.  Checked any ESP related fuses, and they all appear to be good.  Removed Scangauge just in case it is the wrong cable.  Light is still permanently on after a couple of short drives (no other lights).  I guess (unless somebody has another suggestion of something to check) it'll have to wait till I get ambitious/brave enough to make a trip to Halifax and visit a dealer for a diagnostic.  But right now, they're in the middle of a covid surge with something like 40 cases a day for the last few days.

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has to be a code set if it stays on

 

youll need a scantool that can read the abs system...ive had mixed luck with delphi 150e ...it would read and clear abs/esp codes on my 05 coupe but wouldnt communicate at all with the abs on my 05 cabrio

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48 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

youll need a scantool that can read the abs system...ive had mixed luck with delphi 150e ...it would read and clear abs/esp codes on my 05 coupe but wouldnt communicate at all with the abs on my 05 cabrio

That's uber-weird that it doesn't behave the same with both cars.  Maybe I'll check and see what CrappyTire has to offer for scantools; so I have an easy return option if it doesn't work.

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1 hour ago, cheapohubby said:

That's uber-weird that it doesn't behave the same with both cars.  Maybe I'll check and see what CrappyTire has to offer for scantools; so I have an easy return option if it doesn't work.

Beware they don't return them here if package has been opened, electrical item clause.......even princess auto won't.....for same reason.
Post up a pic of rings and where they are compared to sensors. please. Did you get the rings right up to the slight ridge?  Check sensor cables and such for damages. Check all grounding pins anywhere near the sub frame and the body,engine, SAM,... yeh I know, BS...but try it you may find it?
I wouldn't risk a dealership run just yet, buy some electrical tape and cover light if this issue doesn't effect driving ability of vehicle....then search out a STAR machine owned by a private person.....there are many of us around who have made them up.  Yes i know not the correct way to fix the issue using tape but it may help your mental state while you search out a real fix.
I also run a scan gauge and it operates perfectly on my 05 CDI....both of them.

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CrappyTire website seems to be on the fritz tonight, so haven't had a chance to look for options.  But warning taken; will confirm that code reader can be returned if it doesn't work with my car.

I'm fairly confident that the rings are seated tight.  I had a look at the cables, and they seemed okay.  Was most worried about the front sensors (assume the ESP light requires both front and back sensors to be working), since the front springs were both broken and could have easily damaged a sensor.

Assuming that they don't complain about the warning light when I take the car if for a vehicle inspection (Nova Scotia requires them, but it seems to just basic stuff like brakes, frame integrity, etc); then I won't be bothered too much by it.  The car is going to be a secondary vehicle only used in summer; won't really need traction control much.  It's more a case that I'm so close to getting the car back to prime condition, it's just annoying.

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It seems like the minimum unit that CrappyTire sells is the Innova 31X0RS variants that start at $229.  Return policy says full refund if in original packaging within 14 days; so I guess it'll depend on what packaging it comes in.  I'll also make some calls to some of the local part stores and our regular mechanic and see if they have one that I can borrow or get them to read out the code for me.

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On 4/23/2021 at 2:53 PM, cheapohubby said:

The traction control light (triangle with exclamation mark) comes on when I turn on the ignition, and stays on solid.  Been doing it for a long time.  Replaced the rings (heavily rusted).  I've driven the car a couple of times since, and it doesn't seem to want to clear itself.  Also tried disconnecting the battery to see if that would clear it; no effect.  Scangauge isn't showing any codes, but I'm guessing it doesn't support showing/clearing ESP codes.  

Just wondering if anyone has suggestions on what I can check on my own?  I'd rather avoid making a trip to Halifax to get the dealer to scan for codes; both because of distance and rising covid cases.  I do have a parts car, but I'm guessing that swapping sensors is a bit of a pain.

Or does anybody have a recommendation for a diagnostic tool that's known to scan/clear ESP codes?

 Go to a side of your car put your hands just above the side window and rock the car a few times then check if its still on.

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Old tricks we used to play for the idiot lights before inspection, if no codes were showing or we reset them and drove the car just long enough to reset the computer but not long enough to trigger codes.....not something that should be broadcast but it's old history now...lol. Then if the issue didn't throw a code we simply removed the dash light that stayed on. OR covered it up with tape and left it lit behind the dash.  Again ...I didn't tell you...lol.

Yes all 4 wheels have sensors and yes the spring problem did mess with the sensors when they broke in some occasions.  So worth the inspection. When inspecting the front, again, check the grounding pins on the outside firewall area, well known to rust. If I remember right behind the headlights.

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Perfect timing; just re-installed the headlights yesterday!   Oh well, at least the front skirt is still off.

Fortunately; Nova Scotia's inspections are only safety directed.  They don't care about emissions, and I believe they don't care about any warning lights.  If I recall correctly, had a car in for an inspection in the past with a light, and they didn't mention anything about it.

 

Is the suggestion for rocking the car to potentially loosen up the yaw sensor?

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47 minutes ago, cheapohubby said:

 

 

Is the suggestion for rocking the car to potentially loosen up the yaw sensor?

Possibly, I haven't had an issue with that yet...? I will say mine works very well as it won't allow the car to do anything but go in a straight line when playing in the snow.....

It would be nice to be able to turn off all the safety crap once in a while just to have some fun on the back roads from time to time....lol.

 

You have replaced your headlights...? Make sure you do the headlight relay mod. It will save your SAM from cooking itself....same goes for the fuel pump.

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

i could be wrong   (correct me if i am),   but i didn't think the 450 cdi's  (05/06) have a yaw sensor.   

 

Edited by Sydney

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1 hour ago, cheapohubby said:

Perfect timing; just re-installed the headlights yesterday!   Oh well, at least the front skirt is still off.

Fortunately; Nova Scotia's inspections are only safety directed.  They don't care about emissions, and I believe they don't care about any warning lights.  If I recall correctly, had a car in for an inspection in the past with a light, and they didn't mention anything about it.

 

Is the suggestion for rocking the car to potentially loosen up the yaw sensor?

yes

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I believe they do. It's been a few years but I remember on mine it was not under the seat but further back on the floor. This has happened to me in both 05 and 09  on a heavy cross wind would set it off and I had to pull over ,turn it off and restart or give it a shake and it would reset. I will pull the carpet and reference the number maybe I'm talking through my hat.  

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Posted (edited) · Report post

3 hours ago, Willys said:

It would be nice to be able to turn off all the safety crap once in a while just to have some fun on the back roads from time to time....lol.

 

You have replaced your headlights...? Make sure you do the headlight relay mod. It will save your SAM from cooking itself....same goes for the fuel pump.

 

Nope; didn't replace them.  Just had them out from when I swapped the front struts.  I assume you know about the temporary ESP disable (some kind of jumper on the OBDII port).  Our winter beater misbehaved couple of times on snow covered roads.  Tried to make me go straight on a snowy road when I needed to be taking a curve.  Not the most pleasant experience.  Fortunately, it finally cooperated before it took me into the ditch.

 

Took a look at the grounding; just saw one bundle on the driver's side that looked fine.  I assume there isn't one on the passenger side?

 

Also tried rocking the car; to no effect.  After I swap the wheels for the OEM alloys with snows, I will try intentionally bouncing off a few of the gravel road potholes (the wheels currently on there are the roadster spikelines that can't take much abuse).  Need to swap them anyway, since the wide tires are badly cracking and will almost certainly fail the inspection.

Edited by cheapohubby

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Yes i know about the two pins to short and tried it but it didn't work for me, will be done before next winter.
Never assume the grounding pins are good by looking at them as the corrosion will be between the eyelets I have found and usually is hidden. Just sasing is all....always take the whole clump apart to check. Wouldn't be my first  at finding corrosion deep between a few eyelets.

I wouldn't bounce it too hard or you may be re-replacing coils...lol

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