Reconditioning SAM (Signal Acquisition Module)

[Willys]

14 minutes ago, tyc said:

 

I don't want to sell it. I recently bought it to have a car to commute to work.

I want it to be the mileage that was .... I mean it should be the real one with which I bought it (+ how much I brought home ~ 15km). I know there is a possibility but I don't know it and that's why I opened another topic - However, it is not a reconditioning.

 

I'm pretty sure in the STAR it tells you that it will take the higher number and they give no way to reset it.

 

[tyc]

Something like this ...

[tyc]

And I have time, but now I can't really do anything - shingles, another virus...
On this occasion, I ended up rebuilding the second engine, the original one of the car. I found the hydraulic compensators from defective valves - 3 out of 6 were blocked or went in steps (stuck). mag.ro/culbutor-supapa-smart-fortwo-1998-2007-450-420-0086-10-188688/pd/DM5NYKMBM/?cmpid=97684&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-fmZBhDtARIsAH6H8qjXhtLEXYV3kxOdQuIPxNFAv8XMPoICimSVHBsNCRvRdDF5fFALvhVEwcQaEAlio
I bought all 6 pieces and now I just have to assemble them... when I can. A compression test is required, but later after I assemble everything in place.

[Willys]

6 hours ago, tyc said:

And I have time, but now I can't really do anything - shingles, another virus...
On this occasion, I ended up rebuilding the second engine, the original one of the car. I found the hydraulic compensators from defective valves - 3 out of 6 were blocked or went in steps (stuck). mag.ro/culbutor-supapa-smart-fortwo-1998-2007-450-420-0086-10-188688/pd/DM5NYKMBM/?cmpid=97684&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-fmZBhDtARIsAH6H8qjXhtLEXYV3kxOdQuIPxNFAv8XMPoICimSVHBsNCRvRdDF5fFALvhVEwcQaEAlio
I bought all 6 pieces and now I just have to assemble them... when I can. A compression test is required, but later after I assemble everything in place.

Hmmmm.....shingles....damn...my mother had that all down one side of her neck back when i was a kid, damn 50 plus years ago, she suffered badly with it.....good luck and hope it's not a bad case.

I couldn't open that address you posted about what you bought....  I assume it was hydraulic lifters and rockers you bought as they wear as a set I have found out. IF the tops of the lifters aren't perfectly round then the rockers are the same shape and it stops them from rotating as the engine spins resulting in long term damages.....so best to buy them if you can at the same time.  But that is an individual choice I know.  To each their own.....always nice to see other people's builds etc in pics if you have the time...lol.

[tyc]

Correct assumption.
Part code:      INA 420008610 or
                      FEBI BILSTEIN 18672 or
                      SWAG 62918672 .
These are European code. I spoke to receive an inspection camera (borescope). When I succeed, I will post the images on the topic.

[tolsen]

On 07/10/2022 at 7:37 AM, tyc said:

And I have time, but now I can't really do anything - shingles, another virus...
On this occasion, I ended up rebuilding the second engine, the original one of the car. I found the hydraulic compensators from defective valves - 3 out of 6 were blocked or went in steps (stuck). mag.ro/culbutor-supapa-smart-fortwo-1998-2007-450-420-0086-10-188688/pd/DM5NYKMBM/?cmpid=97684&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-fmZBhDtARIsAH6H8qjXhtLEXYV3kxOdQuIPxNFAv8XMPoICimSVHBsNCRvRdDF5fFALvhVEwcQaEAlio
I bought all 6 pieces and now I just have to assemble them... when I can. A compression test is required, but later after I assemble everything in place.

 

Corrected link:

https://www.emag.ro/culbutor-supapa-smart-fortwo-1998-2007-450-420-0086-10-188688/pd/DM5NYKMBM/

[tyc]

Thank you Tolsen.

Today I took advantage of the interval when I take a break and mounted the engine. Of course, I put the distribution wrong. The interval ended faster than I calculated or I moved more slowly. Anyway, the wrong distribution remains.

If I remember correctly, the mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the engine block

and the marks on the chain wheel parallel to the closing surface of the rocker cover

 

Correct?

[Willys]

1 hour ago, tyc said:

Thank you Tolsen.

Today I took advantage of the interval when I take a break and mounted the engine. Of course, I put the distribution wrong. The interval ended faster than I calculated or I moved more slowly. Anyway, the wrong distribution remains.

If I remember correctly, the mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the engine block

and the marks on the chain wheel parallel to the closing surface of the rocker cover

 

Correct?

Yes the timing marks can either line up with the top of the head surface OR it can align as they say in the german shop manual for Smarts, with two very hard to see marks directly opposite so the line are beneath the head surface but again aligned with it. There are two marks that line up with the two lines on the cam sprocket. It runs either way, you just have to have the bottom timing mark correct as you show it(TDC) and the cam sprocket perfectly lined up with the head surface.

[tolsen]

Here is how I timed my engine about a decade ago:

 

 

 

My timing chain was stretched at that time so intend to renew both timing chain and oil pump chain in a few weeks time. 

 

 

[tolsen]

Smart450CdiTiming.pdf

 

Above document should tell you how to time your OM660 engine.

[tolsen]

1 minute ago, tolsen said:

Smart450CdiTiming.pdf

 

Above document should tell you how to time your OM660 engine.

But in my humble opinion, it is easier to check timing when the cam shaft marks are on top and parallel with upper face of cylinder head.

[tyc]

Thanks for the document.
The OM660.940 engine is a little different from the OM660.950, but I suspect that the timing setup procedure is the same.
Well, it's easier with the marks on top if you don't need a special tool.

[tyc]

Indeed, some time has passed since the last post.
In the time that has passed, I have had no more operational problems due to the replaced SAM. The new SAM has kept all the series and mileage it had.
I only recently eradicated the water seepage ... I started with sealing the rear windows (those triangular ones made of polycarbonate). Nothing.
I replaced the gasket on the passenger door. Nothing.
I recently replaced the windshield. It was resolved, although the windshield was intact, the traces of glue were ok... probably it was unglued somewhere or the glue had pores. For example (that's how it was everywhere) and I didn't find places with suspicious adhesive.