control arm replacement

[Jocko]

Has anyone replaced the control arms on the Smart 451 ED? I wondering if I should give it a try or take it to an Indi shop. Gas 451 is the same.

I'm a pretty good mechanic with an impact but no torch. I always stress out when I tackle suspension in my garage because you often end up breaking tools on suspension bolts.

Any special tricks I should be aware of or should I just bring it in because its not worth the hassle?

Thanks

 

[MineCooky]

I'm German, so I'm not a native speaker. So forgive me the question: What's a control arms?

[Jocko]

The control arm is the A frame on the lower front suspension. It is connected to the frame by 2 bolts and the point holds the ball joint.

 

MB part #4513300010

 

[MineCooky]

Ahh right. I'd guess that you don't need a workshop for that.  

[Willys]

I have change mine in my garage on my 450 CDI,  no fancy tools so to speak, but a good selection none the less.  Why do you wish to change it out? I changed mine out as it was easier than installing new bushings into the old A arms, from what I read.  I also didn't break any tools or bolts.  If no torch, maybe a good propane torch would be enough, but i do not remember using it as I have impact guns etc. I do not think even that is required if you have a good strong 1/2" breaker bar and correct sockets etc. 
I think the sway bar connections may be the issue if they are corroded or if the parts snap, then it's simply replacing those also, same thing a shop will do, they break rusty parts all the time doing the same work.  They'll just tell you the parts were too old and rusty if they snap them.  May as well be you ...?   No shop fee.....lol
I do not know what a ED version is like but can't see it being that much different..?

Good luck....shouldn't be that big of a job.  imho.

 

[Jocko]

Thanks for the input. The ball joints and bushings are getting noisy on both sides after 130K km and like you say its easier to just change out the whole thing.

I'll keep an eye on the sway bar linkage bolts but I changed them out last year with the tie rod ends, They should come out OK and shouldn't be too rusty.

 

I found a great video showing how to change out the control arms.  He changes the whole suspension out so it might help others with similar issues.

Check it out

It also makes me a bit more confident to do it myself so I"ll probably give it a go in the next couple of weeks.

Cheers

 

 

[Jocko]

*Update*

So I did both the control arms, the strut bearings and caps as well as both linkages. Much like in the video above it is a pretty big job. 8 - 12 hours is not crazy depending on how fast you work and if you have a hoist. It does require some special tools like the spring compressor and deep sockets and an impact gun. Otherwise it went rather smooth and I rented the spring compressor from Can. Tire for free. The rear bolts are a pain because you can't get a gun on them. I used a ratchet box end and it worked great. I must say it does drive like new again.

 

So what parts were really bad?

The ball joints on both sides were still solid. The rear bushings on both sides were loose and the front ones sere starting. Both strut bearings were getting rusty but otherwise fine but I changed them anyway. The caps were very worn. The linkages were noisy and loose so I changed those too. So for about $400 in parts I got a new front end. I had changed out the tie rods about a year ago and of course the brakes were fine because I changed them about the same time and they wear super slow.

 

I hope this helps someone out in the future .

Cheers!