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Help figuring out what's causing codes


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Good evening! Trying to finish up my project car. I have the following codes coming up on the scanner. I can't seem to clear the restraint codes... I'll share a picture. Could it be a bad SAM or a problem with the restraint module? This car hasn't been I a n accident but I'm using a donor Sam/ecu/speedo. 

20230604_165042.jpg

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youre probably going to hate this reply but

 

it looks like your supply voltage is too low 

 

step one is to check your supply voltage to restraint module

 

 

then check all other connectors and grounds

Edited by LooseLugNuts
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On 6/4/2023 at 7:00 PM, montypeel said:

 I can't seem to clear the restraint codes...

 

If the air bag light is on it can only be cleared by the dealer or someone with a star computer system.

If the light can't be cleared by a star the connector under the seat needs to be removed and the wires soldered together (that's the Mercedes approved method of repair) That's how they cleared the code for me over a decade ago.

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1 hour ago, smart142 said:

 

If the air bag light is on it can only be cleared by the dealer or someone with a star computer system.

If the light can't be cleared by a star the connector under the seat needs to be removed and the wires soldered together (that's the Mercedes approved method of repair) That's how they cleared the code for me over a decade ago.

Thanks so much! I'll look at it tonight. I was trying to clear with the snap on scanner (I've heard from Mercedes mechanic it usually works with Mercedes but not always). 

 

By soldered together do you mean bypass the connector or to literally solder the wires to eachother? 

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On ‎6‎/‎7‎/‎2023 at 9:41 AM, montypeel said:

By soldered together do you mean bypass the connector or to literally solder the wires to eachother? 

 

Bypass the connector.  The connector is there in case someone wants or needs to remove the seat.  If you have no plans to do this, then bypass is the answer and be sure the connections are soldered and insulated well.

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9 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

delphi 150e will definitely clear airbag codes

 

 

none of the codes posted are related to the seat connectors

 

 

Thanks for heads-up on seats! I'm thinking my snap on scanner doesn't have the ability to clear the airbag code properly. Your saying the delphi would be able to. Are you able to tell if the code is just from replacing the battery? 

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On 12/06/2023 at 6:16 PM, LooseLugNuts said:

the airbag light is on because of the restraint codes....you either have a low voltage problem to the module....or a bad module...

 

the codes wont erase until you find out why they are being set

On 12/06/2023 at 6:16 PM, LooseLugNuts said:

the airbag light is on because of the restraint codes....you either have a low voltage problem to the module....or a bad module...

 

the codes wont erase until you find out why they are being set

On 12/06/2023 at 6:16 PM, LooseLugNuts said:

the airbag light is on because of the restraint codes....you either have a low voltage problem to the module....or a bad module...

 

the codes wont erase until you find out why they are being set

Do you think a bad SAM could cause low voltage to airbag module? I've popped Sam open and don't see any issues and I'm getting no problems with traces on that connection harness but I'm wondering if that's the issue as I'm also having a problem with the soft top switch and the headlights. Any help is appreciated!

 

Sorry for format error. Phone is wonky

On 09/06/2023 at 0:14 AM, LooseLugNuts said:

 

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1 minute ago, LooseLugNuts said:

what is the input voltage on your restraint module?

 

voltage problems are almost always crusty connectors or crusty grounds

The next step for me is too pull the dash apart and get at the module so I can probe the harness at that end... It's been raining and I've just got back home from being away for a bit. I was going to check the input voltage next. Any tips on getting at the module without taking entire dash apart? 

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The SAM will drop down without messing with the dash, it's a bit fiddly but once you have figured it out it's semi easy.  When you looked in the SAM did you look for very minute cracks or hair lines around the solder pins? It may take a pair of magnifying glasses to see the cracks. There is a deffinate row of pins usually cause the issues we get but look all over the boards for similar cracks. I have found a few not in that row that required resoldering.

Also again....check all grounding pins as in take them apart and look between the eyelets for corrosion and clan and replace.  You'll find many simple issues are caused by this issue.  Also check for continuity between connections as in check from the wire to the connector to see if the connector has snipped the wire internally when crimped. Both side of the connections.   Cut out the air bag connection and simply solder the wires together, is the fix for that as long as the voltages are correct.

Worst comes to worst a small strip of black tape fixes the air bag light also...lol.

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26 minutes ago, Willys said:

The SAM will drop down without messing with the dash, it's a bit fiddly but once you have figured it out it's semi easy.  When you looked in the SAM did you look for very minute cracks or hair lines around the solder pins? It may take a pair of magnifying glasses to see the cracks. There is a deffinate row of pins usually cause the issues we get but look all over the boards for similar cracks. I have found a few not in that row that required resoldering.

Also again....check all grounding pins as in take them apart and look between the eyelets for corrosion and clan and replace.  You'll find many simple issues are caused by this issue.  Also check for continuity between connections as in check from the wire to the connector to see if the connector has snipped the wire internally when crimped. Both side of the connections.   Cut out the air bag connection and simply solder the wires together, is the fix for that as long as the voltages are correct.

Worst comes to worst a small strip of black tape fixes the air bag light also...lol.

Thanks. I've checked the traces from the plugs to the various components. Some had very faint cracking but I still got a good signal/ no resistance with volt meter.  

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20 hours ago, montypeel said:

Thanks. I've checked the traces from the plugs to the various components. Some had very faint cracking but I still got a good signal/ no resistance with volt meter.  

Yes you may get a signal while the SAM is out and not powered up, but after it gets warm so to speak those cracks open and loose connection.  IF you can see cracks they need to be re-soldered to be 100 percent sure.  imho....the cracks come from heat cycles not wear and tear...so they do open and close with heat.

 

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On 6/14/2023 at 0:22 PM, montypeel said:

Any tips on getting at the module without taking entire dash apart? 

 

no...i never had trouble with mine (other than having to buy and set up a hacked delphi to erase my airbag codes that were caused by me turning the ignition on with a seat removed)

 

i have no idea where they even put the restraint module on smarts but generally on cars they are mounted center usually under the radio area ..sometimes in the forward part of a center console 

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15 hours ago, Willys said:

Yes you may get a signal while the SAM is out and not powered up, but after it gets warm so to speak those cracks open and loose connection.  IF you can see cracks they need to be re-soldered to be 100 percent sure.  imho....the cracks come from heat cycles not wear and tear...so they do open and close with heat.

 

Thanks. I'll let you know how I make out this weekend. I'm going to resolder that connector pins, see if that works, then pull dash if not. 

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