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Any Okanagan Mechanics to help me?


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My 2005 Smart Diesel needs a oil pan change but my back is not what it used to be!  Anyone know of someone in the Okanagan area that could do it?  I have the oil pan with the oil drain bolt that I ordered from MDR.  I just need to order a gasket for the oil pan as I don't feel comfortable using a glue on type gasket.  Anywhere from Kelowna right up to Kamloops area is good.

Edited by smartme
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I also have a bad back and the same oil pan....it's not a hard job, you stay on your back the whole time...lol. Plus I just re-installed the pan on a different engine and the gasket leaked. I threw the gasket out and used red silicon to seal it, job done. Seriously the hardest part is making sure you get a solid fit on the usually rusty pan bolts, a tap or two to loosen the rust and they usually spin out. You need to use same style bolt as the pan lip won't allow regular bolt head and socket to fit, so you may need to buy new bolts from stealership or somewhere else...? I have parted out enough cars etc to have had a few extra kicking around. 
Good luck and here's hoping you can do it yourself or you do find someone near you who can help.

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Thanks Willys!  Ok, will not get the gasket and use the red silicone then.  My neck is more of a problem than my back, that's why I hate to get under cars like I usually did in the past.  Also, thanks for the tips on the pan bolts, I should order one set from the stealership then just in case.  Any idea the torque of the drain  bolt on the new pan with the drain bolt?

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I think Evilution sells gasket + bolt set and the gaskets are really good quality.

It is over 10 years since I bought so things may have changed like they tend to (grump grump old git mumble etcetc)

 

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10 hours ago, smartme said:

Thanks Willys!  Ok, will not get the gasket and use the red silicone then.  My neck is more of a problem than my back, that's why I hate to get under cars like I usually did in the past.  Also, thanks for the tips on the pan bolts, I should order one set from the stealership then just in case.  Any idea the torque of the drain  bolt on the new pan with the drain bolt?

The torque on the drain pan bolt is tight and then a little bit more, I don't use torque wrench for this as it in my case usually gets a dab of silicon just to be 1000% sure it never leaks or worse undoes.  I had a motorcycle drain pan come off after it went into the dealership for service, that was the end of any dealership repairs. Thankfully I saw the oil soaked leg and boot and shut it off before it siezed.  Yep, I had some choice comments for dealership.  I would also just look at your bolts before buying a new set, maybe yours are not rusted?  They are torx so be prepared. Use hammer to set the socket firmly or if badly rusted they will spin. 
I also have a plate and screws in my neck with two other herniated discs trying to grow spurs to the repaired section. Getting old sucks...lol.  Maybe shouldn't have had so much fun when young and stupid?

 

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Thanks Willys!  The torqx bolts look pretty rusted and my concern is that they're going to snap off or strip as I try and loosen them.  It's pretty tight under there so I'm still a little hesitant to do it myself.  I've always wanted a car lift so that I can do all the mods and repairs with ease but so far that dream isn't becoming a reality as of  yet!

 

I hear you with the neck injuries!!!  Mine came from racing motocross in my younger  years and it's so annoying having to deal with it daily.  It loosens up around this time of year and gets much better by September and then Winter strikes and it starts to get tight again.  I should really be a snowbird and pass on Winter.

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The last one I did they were so rusted I ended up having to use a hexagonal socket hammered on but they all came out fine, none snapped, stripped or refused to unscrew once loosened. The head size tends to make you think they are little bolts but they are not, plenty of meat on them so I doubt you could actually snap or strip one manually.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Good to know thanks.  When I first looked at them I was concerned they'd snap right off.  I haven't done the job yet but I did buy the Pela 6000 oil extractor today at the local marine shop and all I can say is wow, it clears every last drop of oil and sludge from the motor, I'm really impressed.  I had a larger one from mightyvac before and it was really crappy but the Pela is incredible compared to it and will buy me some time for sure until I tackle the oil pan.

Edited by smartme
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I don't bother putting a drain plug in but I did on the last one I had 10 years ago. I have sucked this one since I got it because unless you have a catastrophe sucking it is fine.

 

If you get a head gasket blown and the oil turns to sludge that will not suck then it can be a problem but I have not had that happen on a smart.

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16 minutes ago, Mjolinor said:

I don't bother putting a drain plug in but I did on the last one I had 10 years ago. I have sucked this one since I got it because unless you have a catastrophe sucking it is fine.

 

If you get a head gasket blown and the oil turns to sludge that will not suck then it can be a problem but I have not had that happen on a smart.

 

I hated sucking the oil out but not anymore with the Pele.  The only thing I'm not sure of is that after draining the oil from the Pele into a container, the black color of the oil appears to be sticking to the inside of the Pele body and doesn't seem to slide down to the bottom so the next time I use it to suck oil, I may not be able to see how much oil I removed just by looking at it.  Kind of a bummer as I liked seeing it so clearly the first time.

 

Don't have a head gasket blown as of yet but I did notice a little bit of oil blowing past the oil filler cap, or at least that's where it looks like it is coming from so I should order a new cap maybe to see if that fixes the problem.

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, MikeT said:

Same, Pelas are marvellous, no grovelling on the ground (except for the oil filter).

 

I'm pretty sure years ago it was you that first recommended the Pele to me and I should have just got it then instead of all the huge headaches using the over large mightyvac one.

 

BTW, I manged to get 3 liters, is that normal for the CDI?  Dipstick was reading correctly if that helps.  I only put 2.7 litres back of fresh oil and parked it in my garage and will check the dipstick

tomorrow evening when I get back to see how it looks.

Edited by smartme
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IMHO, and that is what it is, my opinion....I don't believe the suckers get enough of the old dirty oil out and thus you simply add good fresh oil into the left behind old dirty oil. I have used the sucker method when I first bought my smart, but after getting covered in oil from the suction tube when you pull it out.....I called it quits and simply installed the drain pan with the drain plug.  You have to get under the car to change the filter and the drain plug is a foot away from the filter housing so what's the issue? I just do not understand what the hardship is to undo a drain plug...?  I use gloves to keep my hands clean and plenty of rags handy just in case. I also know I am getting every drop of old dirty oil out so I'm not mixing expensive fresh oil into it. 

Yes changing the old non drain plug pan with a new drain plug pan isn't the best job in the world but the rewards far out weigh the sucking method again IMHO. 

To each their own....?

And yes we all know it takes only a few kms to get the nice clean new oil as black as the oil you just changed....lol.

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17 hours ago, smartme said:

Thanks Willys!  The torqx bolts look pretty rusted and my concern is that they're going to snap off or strip as I try and loosen them.  It's pretty tight under there so I'm still a little hesitant to do it myself.  I've always wanted a car lift so that I can do all the mods and repairs with ease but so far that dream isn't becoming a reality as of  yet!

 

I hear you with the neck injuries!!!  Mine came from racing motocross in my younger  years and it's so annoying having to deal with it daily.  It loosens up around this time of year and gets much better by September and then Winter strikes and it starts to get tight again.  I should really be a snowbird and pass on Winter.

All you need is a set of those new remanufactured rubber drive up ramps that lift the car what 10" off the ground.....it gives you plenty of room to wiggle just under the rear bumper to easily reach the filter and drain plug. imho.  No need for a lift system.....but if you have the space and desire to do all the work on your car, yes a lift or ramp is great to own. I should know, my car lived on one for 4 years while I restored it...lol.

As for our injuries, yes they hold us back from doing easily normal jobs( I can work for half a day then spend the next day recovering) But it beats sitting aside and paying someone huge money to do a job I know i can do, only just at a much slower rate than I once could do.  Getting old sucks if you have had fun while young and foolish or in my case been in a very bad car crash. Not my fault ...rear ended while sitting at a light by some stoned kid!

Keep doing what you can do for as long as you can or you'll stiffen up like a dried up twig...lol.

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23 hours ago, smartme said:

 

I'm pretty sure years ago it was you that first recommended the Pele to me and I should have just got it then instead of all the huge headaches using the over large mightyvac one.

 

BTW, I manged to get 3 liters, is that normal for the CDI?  Dipstick was reading correctly if that helps.  I only put 2.7 litres back of fresh oil and parked it in my garage and will check the dipstick

tomorrow evening when I get back to see how it looks.

3 L is a bit much, maximum capacity is 2.7 L at the maximum dipstick mark. So 3L out means it was over-filled.

I've driven 800,000 km on cars that have had only Pela changes, no ill effects so far.

Edited by MikeT
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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, MikeT said:

3 L is a bit much, maximum capacity is 2.7 L at the maximum dipstick mark. So 3L out means it was over-filled.

I've driven 800,000 km on cars that have had only Pela changes, no ill effects so far.

 

That's what is a little confusing as my dipstick before the oil change oil was only half way up, so couldn't figure out why I got 3L out of it? 

After the Pele sucked out so much oil, I gave it a few more pumps and I swear it sucked out even more to my surprise.

Edited by smartme
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On 2024-06-29 at 6:43 AM, Willys said:

IMHO, and that is what it is, my opinion....I don't believe the suckers get enough of the old dirty oil out and thus you simply add good fresh oil into the left behind old dirty oil. I have used the sucker method when I first bought my smart, but after getting covered in oil from the suction tube when you pull it out.....I called it quits and simply installed the drain pan with the drain plug.  You have to get under the car to change the filter and the drain plug is a foot away from the filter housing so what's the issue? I just do not understand what the hardship is to undo a drain plug...?  I use gloves to keep my hands clean and plenty of rags handy just in case. I also know I am getting every drop of old dirty oil out so I'm not mixing expensive fresh oil into it. 

Yes changing the old non drain plug pan with a new drain plug pan isn't the best job in the world but the rewards far out weigh the sucking method again IMHO. 

To each their own....?

And yes we all know it takes only a few kms to get the nice clean new oil as black as the oil you just changed....lol.

 

Well, I still have the new drain pan with the drain bolt.  Willing to cut a deal with anyone here in BC that wants it if they can come and pick it up in the Okanagan!  I have to admit, after using the Pele I got spoiled a little and had second thoughts about putting the new pan on.  My trick not to let the oil make a mess when removing the tubes on the Pele is to use an old rag when removing and then put it all in a black plastic garbage bag right away until the next use.

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On 2024-06-29 at 6:50 AM, Willys said:

All you need is a set of those new remanufactured rubber drive up ramps that lift the car what 10" off the ground.....it gives you plenty of room to wiggle just under the rear bumper to easily reach the filter and drain plug. imho.  No need for a lift system.....but if you have the space and desire to do all the work on your car, yes a lift or ramp is great to own. I should know, my car lived on one for 4 years while I restored it...lol.

As for our injuries, yes they hold us back from doing easily normal jobs( I can work for half a day then spend the next day recovering) But it beats sitting aside and paying someone huge money to do a job I know i can do, only just at a much slower rate than I once could do.  Getting old sucks if you have had fun while young and foolish or in my case been in a very bad car crash. Not my fault ...rear ended while sitting at a light by some stoned kid!

Keep doing what you can do for as long as you can or you'll stiffen up like a dried up twig...lol.

 

I have those ramps but like I said in my last post above, the Pele as spoiled me rotten lol. 

 

I remember now awhile back about you mentioning someone rear ended you, so sorry to hear about that, what a bummer.  At least you're doing everything you still want to do which is great to hear.

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take care that the oil dipstick is all the way in. I have noticed on some of these that the dipstick seems to go in all the way and it stays there but close inspection shows it to be not seated correctly. This will lead people to thinking the oil level is low.

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