Tranny no go...

[AndrewBienhaus]

Hello all,

Sorry the subject is so basic, but I couldn't find any matching topics, and hope you won't mind me sharing my present challenge. 🙂

In the past I would just take it to Uncle Glenn...

 

2006, fortwo, 197,000km on it.

Runs smooth, clean, has had synthetics in it since 43,000km, and the inside of mechanical parts is spotless.

Very reliable, and about the only thing I have had to deal with is the usual clutch actuator fun.
Last fall, I tool that out, cleaned it from front to back, re-greased, and it was wonderful again... even found a new boot for the actuator, online!

Put it back in, mid-screw position for the slots, it re-learned on it's own and was wonderful...

 

My oldest son is it's primary driver these days, but we both love it equally.
He and his GF call it Hammy, after the famous Hamster... 😉

While taking it for a short trip to the doctor, 25km or less, noted some amount of additional "vibration" as he put it. He's not mechanically inclined, but as a Sound Engineer and Musician, he notices noises and rhythms more than others, to his credit.

On the way back he was going to tell me about that, when he completed a left turn onto a country road, had to stop hard behind a stopped water truck (ie: car had to downshift to 1st), and then lost forward power, and had to coast to the side of the road. (pushed the last few feet)

 

No 3 bars of death, unless we really play for a long time.

I don't think clutch.

CAA took to local mechanic who is younger, adventurous, and has worked with us on it before when we need a hoist and such... he also did shocks, new intercooler when we got tired of that dripping, etc.

He's "smart friendly", is what I am trying to say.

 

When we go into reverse or forward, there is no movement.

The sound, is a soft clucking sound, like it's trying to engage something, but failing.

The rate of sound, is about two to three beats per second when asking for reverse, and only 1 per second when asking for forward. (neither of which ever happen)

 

I have attached two sound files. (two formats)

You may have to turn it way up... the big single clunks are me asking for gears... Reverse first, and then Forward.

But you can definitely hear the pattern.

 

I am totally open to ideas/suggestions.

I can do myself, but my friend the mechanic, is leary to drop a whole engine/tranny, and tie up a hoist on stands, if it's likely something "grenaded" in the tranny.

We both know there is another actuator that does the actual shifting... so I think that is where I am asking for help here.

Is that something that can be fixed up, maintained, lubricated and put back, or should be totally replaced.

And does that sound "match" that sort of diagnosis for any of you out there? 🙂

 

thanks in advance - access to the car is local, so I can try other things, gather more intel... but I feel like we aren't ready to give up on Hammy just yet!! 🙂

 

thanks,

Andy

[AndrewBienhaus]

P2402 is the only code in the ECU.

 

Am i reading/researching correctly, that's likely the shift actuator on the right hand side of the tranny?

[LooseLugNuts]

is the actuator actually moving?....get under there and set your eyes on it 

[LooseLugNuts]

On 5/28/2025 at 5:06 PM, AndrewBienhaus said:

P2402 is the only code in the ECU.

 

Am i reading/researching correctly, that's likely the shift actuator on the right hand side of the tranny?

 

 

shift barrel (or whatever they call it) might be on the side...but the actuator is on the bottom...sounds like an actuator problem to me 

[ZCMK123]

I am going through similar issues and recently had my clutch actuator fail on me. It does sound like that might be a good place to start looking.

 

FYI incase you didn't know, you are supposed to re grease the clutch actuator if you are inclined to do so about every other oil change is what I have read on this forum. I failed to do that and paid the price. 

 

Anyway, best of luck and report back!

[AndrewBienhaus]

Yes... have been fairly diligent about that, and then last fall also flushed it all out, and started fresh. 🙂

Working on getting it off the car, as it's not parked at home right now, and one of those damn torx bolts got a bit hurt by a previous mechanic... so the reach under and do, didn't.

It feels like the shaft may be disconnected internally, so I'm landing with you guys on this.

[ZCMK123]

Yeah those dang torxs are a pain when they get old. Good luck.

 

Also it would be worth checking your clutch fork. They are known to be punched through from the actuator. Hopefully not at 197,000km but it would be worth checking as well.

[AndrewBienhaus]

On it, thanks.

Just waiting on some help to get it out... the mechanic needs a few free moments on his hoist, when he can push it in, and help me get the last torx out.

I think I have some stainless allenheads around, that I will replace them with.

[AndrewBienhaus]

Well, Poop.

It would appear that the actuator shaft, punched a hole through the fork.

which is likely why it's loose in the actuator.

 

Does anyone have any access to estimates on time (labour) or process to replace clutch, fork, etc?

I don't suppose there is a VFAQ on it anywhere already...?  😞

 

My mechanic is game... but he's only done a gas one, and of course his booking system is american, and has no 2006 shop labour estimate data.

[smart142]

Uncle Glenn is still available to help. From what you describe it could be a relatively easy fix.

Of course once its up on the hoist I would have a much better idea🙂

[LooseLugNuts]

weld a bigger ball to the actuator..

 

i fixed mine once but dont even remember what i did..its been awhile