Exhaust / Turbo issue what do you guys think?

[1JR1]

My 07 450 seems to have suddenly developed an exhaust leak as I'm noticing a loss of power and hearing a "flub'ing" noise in the cab at idle. 

Turbo is operating, I can hear it spooling up.

 

Leads me to believe I've got an exhaust leak before the turbo.  If I had a leak after the turbo I assume I wouldn't be loosing power.

Sounds like I need a manifold gasket. 

 

What do you folks think?  

[MikeT]

Could be a big intercooler hole. The car must be a 2006 as that's the last model year.

[1JR1]

Thank Mike. 

 

I've also found a CYL1 misfire code fresh in the ECU and she's smoking bad too.  Cleared to code out and took it for a drive.  Code did not return.  I'll be getting into it tomorrow for diagnostic. 

[1JR1]

Started digging into it now. 

 

Engine doesn't seem to have an exhaust leak or an injector issue.  No signs of exhaust gasses being leaked, removing any injector plug causes immediate stall.

 

Engine has an EGR bypass circuit without a block off plate.  Pulled the EGR for inspection, because symptoms seem similar to a plugged EGR, but it looked ok. 

 

Checked the intake manifold sensor tube for blockages as well. 

 

Wondering if I have a fuel pressure problem, too low/high.  Don't have a diesel pressure gauge set. 

I did use my gasoline fuel pressure tester and it maxed it out at >180PSI or >12BAR between the high pressure output of the pump and the rail. 

Going to assemble it enough to run it normally aspirated and see what happens. 

 

ECU is still reporting miss-fire on CYL 1 and 2.  Smokes badly, idles poorly and now very low on power. 

Edited September 13, 2025 by 1JR1

[1JR1]

You folks always like videos. 

 

I tried removing the EGR to intake boot and ran the car.  Intake sounds very loud compared to a gas engine, but I'm not sure what's normal. 

 

Also getting a "clacking" noise out of the front timing chain area when I remove the oil fill cap.  It's got a newer timing chain assembly, that I installed during it's 2016 rebuild. 

 

Here is the video!

https://youtu.be/niglLn26CXc?si=VW53_CRqy6bfjYKV

Edited September 12, 2025 by 1JR1

[MikeT]

That's running on two cylinders. Sounds very bad.

[1JR1]

Thanks Mike.  Based on the noises from the timing chain area and the intake being much louder than a gas engine I'm use to...

 

I'm concerned that she might have jumped a tooth on the chain. 

 

Trying to find someone local who can complete the diagnostic work locally without much success so far.  Might be the dealership as the next stop. 

[stickman007]

Most likely worn intake valves.

[1JR1]

6 hours ago, stickman007 said:

Most likely worn intake valves.

Thanks for the feedback Stick!

 

I'm not sold on that idea yet.  Engine was rebuilt just over 40K ago.  Cords, a very reputable shop locally, did the valves/guides and decked the head for me. 

 

Haven't been able to isolate the issue so Smart is going to take a stab at it Wed.

[1JR1]

Just got it back from Smart last night. 

 

They diagnosed it as "internal engine fault".  They indicate that means it's not a bolded on accessory or sensor but something internal to the engine it's self. 

Looks like I'm pulling the engine this weekend.  Checking the timing alignment will be my first goal. 

[1JR1]

Well, pulled the engine today and started breaking it down.

 

Then I realized it's not a mechanical timing issue.  I noticed a timing mark on the flywheel and a pulled the valve cover. 

Lined up the TDC mark and the cam shaft gar mark also looks good.  No timing slip. 

 

Attaching photos...

 

Now I'm wondering if there is a way to do a compression test before I break it down more.  

[1JR1]

I isolated the fault now!

 

A compression test showed no compression what's so ever on CYL 2.  Even with my finger over the port I could feel no signs of compression. 

 

Pulled the head and found that CYL 2 had the intake valve stuck open.  The piston was soaked compared to the other two as well. 

I haven't been running any fuel treatment in the car for a number of year now.  Looks like that was a mistake and has caused excessive carbon build up on the valve stem causing it to stick.  I use Co-op diesel here on Vancouver Island.  A few years back they seemed to change the formula and I stopped getting fouling injectors.  

 

Now the question I have to ask myself...  Rebuild or replace the engine.  Hmm.  I need the car back in service, so thinking about replacing it with a working used one.  Then keep this one as a rebuild core. 

[MikeT]

Replace for sure. Rebuilding would cost a lot more.

[stickman007]

Some pics of the intake valves? Normally the wear is on the valve and not the seat. Maybe rebuildable. I don’t usually see issues with the short block.

[1JR1]

See what I can do to post "meaningful" pics.  Can't see the valve stems as they are still in the head and closed now.  Tapped on the stuck one and it dropped in.  Suppose it could be bent too, since it was out. 

 

Re-build seems to be cheaper, but will take longer and "should" last longer.

Can't buy these motors anymore, unless you're getting a used one... But there are no low mileage CDI motors to be had it seems, unless you're SUPER lucky. 

There are rebuilders, but these cars don't have the value to support it. 

 

I suspect the valve became stuck due to the high amount of oil in my intake causing carbon build up.  Glow plugs were caked with crap too.  No one has ever been able to tell me how much oil is "normal" on these cars to have in the intake.  But there is a LOT it seems, way more than just vapor I'd say.  I was getting about 1/2 liter per oil change that went through the intake. 

 

Leaning towards buying this kit, link below, as the cylinder bores visually look ok.  But going to "mic" them to ensure there isn't excessive wear, oval-ing or tapering first. 

https://www.smart-ersatzteile.com/epages/61935289.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61935289/Products/101798450an

[1JR1]

Well I started cleaning up the motor bits to get ready for the replacement engine and found that yes the intake on #2 was open...  My initial survey missed that the cam follower for #2 intake was jammed into the side of the head, out of place. 

 

See the images attached with the hole the follower burrowed into the head. 

 

This was caused by the oiler, which must be pressed into the head, compressing into the head further.  This allowed play in the follower and it jumped off the oiler, wedging it's self into the head. 

 

The one picture shows a normal oiler, bottom, and the compressed one, top. 

The second picture is right behind the oiler, where the follower wedged it's self into the side of the head. 

 

[Willys]

On 10/7/2025 at 1:01 AM, 1JR1 said:

See what I can do to post "meaningful" pics.  Can't see the valve stems as they are still in the head and closed now.  Tapped on the stuck one and it dropped in.  Suppose it could be bent too, since it was out. 

 

Re-build seems to be cheaper, but will take longer and "should" last longer.

Can't buy these motors anymore, unless you're getting a used one... But there are no low mileage CDI motors to be had it seems, unless you're SUPER lucky. 

There are rebuilders, but these cars don't have the value to support it. 

 

I suspect the valve became stuck due to the high amount of oil in my intake causing carbon build up.  Glow plugs were caked with crap too.  No one has ever been able to tell me how much oil is "normal" on these cars to have in the intake.  But there is a LOT it seems, way more than just vapor I'd say.  I was getting about 1/2 liter per oil change that went through the intake. 

 

Leaning towards buying this kit, link below, as the cylinder bores visually look ok.  But going to "mic" them to ensure there isn't excessive wear, oval-ing or tapering first. 

https://www.smart-ersatzteile.com/epages/61935289.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61935289/Products/101798450an

Sorry didn't read this post until today, these people are top notch imho, I bought everything to fully rebuild my engine from them without any issue at all. This was 5 years ago probably now but still I would buy from them in a heartbeat if I needed anything.
IMHO, you must buy the correct over sized piston kit after you have measured your block. Also checked your cylinders for irregular distortion as in waves in the walls of the cylinders. Mine was terrible. Luckily the only kit they had was 3 over as it took that much to correct the cylinders.
I agree it seems people think these cars and or mechanical parts are gold plated used which is resulting in so many getting crushed. 
I also agree with buying all new internal parts IF you have the funds. imho the end result will be an engine that will outlast the rest unless you pay the same attention to rust issues.

Keep up the good work and keep posting.