ragnarawk

I have an aftermarket intercooler fan that has a different connector than MB.I have disassembled the MB fan to get the plug off, but connecting it to the aftermarket fan is confusing me right now. I don't know what wire is positive/negative/ground going to the fan (i.e. the smart wires). There are two wires - one brown and one yellow.Does anyone know the polarity of these two wires?Will post pics (if I'm unclear) later.

I did - see here. My impressions of the Kumho Solus KH16s are also in that thread.

I understand that logic - and don't get me wrong, I'm not holding out hope that I can make the fobless key work - but looking at the different locking tricks on Evilution makes me think there may be some hack around it. The prime scenario is having a dead battery in the fob. Notwithstanding starting the car, without the fob I doubt most people wouldn't be able to lock their car. It's quite a process (detailed here, among other neat locking things), and I suspect there's some similar hack around the immobilizer. Thinking about it all, though - it would look quite a sight. Unlocking through the hatch, going around into the car and then doing whatever needs to be done just to get the engine to start. (My car's doors open when I unlock the hatch, by the way - is my system weird or is yours?)

So the lock button doesn't do it. I'll need a fob.

I was able to get a key cut today. I called around a few places in Guelph, and I probably could have gotten the blank at two of them. The one guy didn't have his stock list handy, so I called another place that ended up having it (and I subsequently went there - G & A Locksmiths, if anyone's interested and the other potential one was Keyworx). The blank they had on hand was an Ilco MB 39, and cost $4.12 all in (but really only $4.10, since I didn't have any pennies ). I should note that a key without a fob/transmitter won't immobilize the engine, of course. This is a problem if you unlock the car without the transmitter (i.e., through the hatch). The engine immobilizer apparently doesn't respect such an entry, so the engine is immobilized even though you've unlocked the car. EDIT: Just read this article and am thinking the lock button might solve this problem. Will confirm once I get home, unless someone knows definitively that this theory will prove true or false.

Thanks, Alex. Would it be cheaper and more expedient to get Mercedes to order it, or get a locksmith to cut it? I'm thinking they're probably equivalent ...

Does anyone know if you can get the key cut without bothering with the fob?Well, I guess Doc P does, so I'll PM him.

For a list of features, see my Kijiji ad. For more, higher resolution pictures, see my Picasa album. Service has been done by Victoria Star MB until warranty expired (August 2010), then by myself, Glenn (smart142) and Andrew Lee (see wiki entry). I have two kids, no longer commute 200 km/day and therefore no convenient service options (for things beyond oil changes and easy technical repairs). ----Sold March 23, 2013----

I installed the fan on Saturday, and it appears to work.The box says the model I had (6.5") is supposed to move air at 330 CFM.

Yeah, I was wondering how you got it out at the moment I had access to it. I wasn't daring enough to monkey around that much, but I may try again. Did you lube it up at all before twisting it? How did you connect the original connector to the aftermarket fan? Solder or crimping? I've got it out and cleaned off, I just need to connect it at this point. The Spal fan indicates polarity, so I don't think I'll need to test it. I just didn't know what the smart wiring colours indicated.Thanks for your help, everyone.

Thanks for the information. Most of the other information can be found here (make, process, etc.). I bought this from Glenn (smart142) for $80 in August, but have only had time/opportunity to fit it now. I don't know the CFM off-hand, but it may be included in the packaging. Google might be able to help. Looking closer at mzeeb's pictures, it appears he modified the wiring to accommodate the Spal fan. This wasn't in the DIY instructions. I'll add details as I can. I should also note that removing the fan provides sufficient access to the EGR bolts. This is specifically relevant if you're attempting the in situ cleaning of the EGR valve. I would have liked to do that, but I didn't have the special tool. (Should've planned ahead more).

I had the three bars nearly a year ago, and it was chafed wires. The issue was fixed satisfactorily by Andrew Lee (see wiki entry). You're in Courtice, though if you go up McCowan regularly, driving to Newmarket to Lee's Autohaus may be a reasonable option (if you don't want to go to MB). I am sure he'll take a very close look at the problem and give you a good diagnosis for a fair price. Of course, if it's the GPS, the part will have to come from MB regardless. Their time is much more expensive, though.

Well, it wasn't that difficult. I did the spray, run, spray first, though. When the engine was running, there was no spray back - could it be that the fan is oriented in the opposite direction for the Canadian 450s? Of course, if your alternator is seized, you don't have much choice but to spray without it running.In any case, I was able to revive a battery that was putting out between 0.00V and 0.01V this morning to one that cranks out > 12 during idle and > 13.60 while under load. It successfully restarted several times, too. I used evilution's method (down at the bottom). I didn't take off the arch liner. I also didn't drop the engine, but it was a tight fit to get the 24 mm bit (or 15/16 that I used) and the torque bar/ratchet in there.I would wholeheartedly endorse anyone's attempts to loosen up the alternator before concluding that it's dead.

I think my alternator may have seized. I had it sitting for a week in June-July, ran it one day, and it wouldn't start the next. The battery is now dead.in any case, if access to the alternator is difficult, how can this be done while the car is running?

I was recently looking for wreckers in my area and found this site: http://www.ontarioscrap.com/index.php?id=wreckers For Corbyville, you'd want the Eastern Ontario list, here: http://www.ontarioscrap.com/index.php?id=w...rs&region=4 I didn't look to see if there's anything relatively close, so you'll have to decide. If they have a website, they're more than likely to provide their inventory. If they don't have the part in question, there's an email form you can fill out to contact them directly. Good luck!

I was on my way to work on Tuesday and out of the blue the passenger seat airbag deployed. No hard bump to cause this, just a huge BANG when the airbag deployed, making me think I had a hole in my car from something slamming into it at first.Anyway, after a few minutes on the side of the road, having done a circle check and called my coworker who I was supposed to meet, I can drive the car. Of course, the airbag light is on and I therefore will not have them protect me if I get in a crash. I brought it to Andrew Lee, where it sits now, to get a sense of what can be done. A potential cause could be the wiring under the passenger seat being loose - I had to move the seat on the weekend, which could have jostled it enough. But I don't know if that would trip the airbag.Right now, it looks like it might end up being around $2000 to fix - computer, reprogramming, air bag, possible seatbelt tensioner/piston and labour. The alternative is let it be and accept the risk of no air bags if I get into a crash.So I'm weighing my options about what to do. Fix, ride as is, or even sell (though I know I'd have to get it certified, requiring fixing)? Don't know what to do, especially because it's just a freak thing.

Thanks for the input everyone.I haven't called insurance, and will contact Transport Canada. Fixing the problem completely sounds like it will need a trip to MB. If I understand correctly, part of that trip will be doing the reprogramming of the airbag computer module which will include diagnosis. So, no cause identified yet.

That's really interesting. I've been looking at Fiestas as a replacement to the smart (when it dies), and would be curious to know what model year, trim a/o transmission your Fiesta is.My wife would like something that the kids can ride in, in case we have a short jaunt, so we don't have to take the van. I agree to some degree, but I don't want to say good-bye to the smart just as I'm getting to know it.Also - is it generally understood that the KPL - MPG conversion uses British units, not US? The 61 MPG threw me for a loop for a second 'cause I've been thinking in US gallons.

I would try it out, but I'm a little far away.

I've ordered summers and winters from tirerack.com. I was happy with the price (Kumho Solus K16's for summers) and delivery was really fast.I haven't shopped around locally, since I don't really have the time.

Did this on Friday night. I wasn't in limp mode, but the ride does seem smoother at least.Something I forgot to ask is does the emulator work the same as removing the EGR with respect to a decrease in fuel consumption?Also:- Changed my winter wheels on Tuesday night- Changed my oil about 10 days ago- Will do the euro side marker mod so they blink with my signals (didn't know it was so easy).

Sounds like something I need to do - I just got the P0401 code on my way home last night. Can you or anyone else describe the in situ process of cleaning out the EGR (or direct me to a how-to)?

I'm just inputting all my service costs, and Victoria Star (MB Kitchener) charged me $56.22 to do this. Not expensive, but not free, either (likely just the 1/2 hour of the tech's time).

I go to Lee's in Newmarket ('cause it's close to work), and I know Blair (yyzboyz) goes to supersmart in Oakville. I am going to ask Andrew about the A/C fix, but I'm sure any service will be at a more reasonable price than MB. It's just whether you want to drive all the way to Newmarket (not that Oakville is that much more convenient).

I am looking at about $60 for an A service at my indie (Lee's Autohaus - check the wiki). That includes labour and a new air filter, but not oil+oil filter (I changed that a couple weeks ago).