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Not every car. Most cars have fuel injection system. Some most reliable cars do not have fuel injection system. (e.g. honda S2000, some mazda mita etc.). It is always better to find a car without a turbo and fuel injection system. That will have many less parts that can go bad.

Hi I am looking at a 2010 smart fortwo on sale locally. It has 1L gas engine. According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_3B2_engine that may have 3B21 engine. But that is naturally aspirated not turbo. (I think that is the best and most reliable engine) But https://www.caranddriver.com/smart/fortwo/specs/2010/smart_fortwo_smart-fortwo-hatchback_2010 says that has a fuel injection system. Which information is correct? VIN # is WMEEJ3BA1AK397607 Where can I find more details? Thanks

Thanks a lot Smart42: I received 3 new glow plugs today. I took out the first one out (right most one). A multi-meter showed open circuit. I replaced that with a new one. It was simple task. I only need a 10mm deep socket. I cleared the code. Engine light is gone and not more glow plug light. This indicates " p0380 glow plug/ heater circuit A" error code refers to right most glow plug. I decided to replace other two glow plug as needed. (I have two more new glow plugs). Thanks for all your help.

My error code is " p0380 glow plug/ heater circuit A ". What does circuit 'A' means? Does that means glow plug number 1 is faulty? Is that right most glow plug? Thanks

Do I need to replace just glow plugs or control relay too?

I have a smart 450 diesel. Since yesterday, it is giving p0380 glow plug/ heater circuit A error code and engine light is on. Glow plug light turns on at start but that goes away in a minute. So far car starts without any issue. It is an old car. Can I keep driving this with this error? When would this not start and I have to replace all three glow plugs? Thanks

I drove my 2006, 450 diesel about 3500km in the last 2.5 years. Oil is black (diesel car) as it was on the day oil was changed. Do I need an oi/filter l change? What could happen if I do not do that? Thanks.

Both reluctor rings of my smart car are broken. ABS and ESP warning lights turns and stay on when I drive above 50km/hr. Brakes and everything else works fine according to my observation. I role back on slope. (I usually avoid such roads and live with it). I think driving that is not an issue if you are careful and road is dry. I just want to fix other lights. I think driving smart car with ABS and ESP light also leads to full front light on and back lights on. (some one can correct me). Is there any way to fix front and back lights when driving with ABS and ESP warning lights on? Thanks

No more replies? Ok. I am gong to follow smart65 advice and do not go far an oil change.

My 2006, 450 diesel is in storage for last 20 months. I may have driven this about 100km in last 20 months. Battery is being kept alive by a charger. Not it is showing oil change -260 days. It works fine and starts on first key. I do not intend to use this much. (it is for backup/ fun ride). Do I need an oil change? What could happen if I do not do that? Thanks.

I am looking for some autoshop or technician in St. John's Newfoundland who can repair my 450 diesel smart car. I am fedup with the dealer and would not like to go there for repairs. Please help me find an autoshop and technician in Newfoundland.Thanks.

I have a related question.Is a smart car with ABS and ESP warning lights on safe to drive below 50km/hr? Brakes and everything else works fine according to my observation. I think there should not be any issue if you are careful and road is dry.Thanks

My 2006 smart for two (450) has an issue and I need help.If I drive this above 60km/hr, I get ABS and ESP lights on and they stay on untill I stop and restart the car. While driving below 50km/hr, I do not get ABS and ESP lights on but I can feel some clicking (most likely ABS relay) and I can see small voltage dips on the dashboard light (about 0.2V, I measured that while driving). Battery is new and fully charged. Frequency of voltage dips and clicking has gone up recently. If I go faster, I get ABS and ESP lights on, clicking and voltage dips stops untill I restart the car and drive again.I checked reluctors rings. Both rear rings are fine, there was a lot of rust that I removed with a screw driver and wire brush and sprayed those with rust check. What might be causing ABS and ESP lights to come on and clicking (felt on accelerator and brake padels) that also leads to a small voltage dip?Thanks

Thanks dmoonen for the tip. I started leaving car in reverse without parking brake on and so far it is working well. Very little sticking. What is PIA?

It is winter time and my 450 brakes are sticking again. If I do not drive for few days, car will not move. I have to push, try to move back and forward with full acceleration to release the brakes. (mainly front brakes) If I do not use hand brake at all while car is parked and use a brick behind the tire. Is that going to help? If I use a brake cleaner, is that going to help? I am also looking for tire chains. (I have winter tires. But I am thinking to use tire chains on the rear wheels) On option is. http://www.amazon.ca/Cobra-Cable-Passenger...rds=tire+chains Are these chains going to help in heavy snow and on slopes? Thanks