G&K cruise control (Aftermarket)

[ASmartMan 0]

DUDE

I'm a little confused (it may be due to the beer ) my project has NOTHING to do with the MDC C/C nor have I posted ANYTHING about the wiring (coming this week end) for my C/C option.

I can post about a few things I've learned TODAY, first being, the dealer I bought the Smart from seem to be really a good dealer (they refunded me the $45 for inspection I had to pay, they also honored a FREE oil change I got today).

I was taken back when I found out that for $80 they can put the MB TAN code in for the C/C (made me wonder (WHAT AM I DOING)).

Regardless, wiring prints and testing video(s) will come this weekend, then I'll be off to the next project I will ONLY post when done with this one, but just to give you all an Idea whats next, check out these links http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se...&CatId=2373 and http://www.obd-codes.com/store/elmscan-5-u...i-scan-tool.php

Later all

ASM

[MikeT 744]

I was taken back when I found out that for $80 they can put the MB TAN code in for the C/C (made me wonder (WHAT AM I DOING)).

Wow, that is a steal.....the TAN costs well over 130 Euros in Germany.....JUST DO IT!!!!I have the OEM cruise and it is awesome!

[DJW 0]

ASM/Mike TWhat is a MB Tan Code?Dennis

[MikeT 744]

Every latent electronic feature in a smart is built into the car's brain, and you need a software key to activate them individually. When adding one of these features after you buy the car, the dealer has to pay a fee to smart in order to be supplied with the software key - called the TAN code.Examples of things that need TANning are: tachometer activation, activation of paddle gearshift, activation of softouch, activation of cruise control, etc.....Cruise control sold as an accessory in Europe costs about 200 Euros, including the switch and TAN code, but not including the labour (which is porbably 1/2 hour). So $80 is DIRT cheap!And the TAN cruise control rocks!

[SmartieParts 12]

I'm very suprised they said they can do it. Its my understanding that Smart won't release the TAN codes to anyone in a market where cruise is not available as an option. That includes Canada, and certainly the US where officially the smart isn't even available yet. But IF he can get one, and install it for you for $80 - then yeah, its a no-brainer. Probably not legal but that's his problem (and/or whoever he's working with) as I'm sure MB isn't condoning it. - Steven

[SmartieParts 12]

I'm very suprised they said they can do it. Its my understanding that Smart won't release the TAN codes to anyone in a market where cruise is not available as an option. That includes Canada, and certainly the US where officially the smart isn't even available yet. But IF he can get one, and install it for you for $80 - then yeah, its a no-brainer. Probably not legal but that's his problem (and/or whoever he's working with) as I'm sure MB isn't condoning it. - Steven

ps. To avoid confusion... the aftermarket cruise control (MDC) bypasses the on-board latent cruise control, so no TAN is required for it. Since the whole TAN thing came up, I probably get one question a week asking which dealer they have to take the unti to in order to have it activated. Two completely seperate technologies.

[MikeT 744]

Its my understanding that Smart won't release the TAN codes to anyone in a market where cruise is not available as an option.

Well that must be wrong, because it is patently clear to smart when they assign (and recieve payment for) a TAN code for cruise control, on a car like mine or Ian's, that a Canadian VIN is involved. The TANs are VIN-specific. Despite this, they release the code without hesitation or questions....If anyone at the Canadian dealer network does a search on features in their Star system, they will see that my car has cruise enabled. It is centrally registered in smart's master databank. I have told my dealer about it.So the smart division in Europe is well aware (if they bother to check) that this is going on. Maybe they are assuming that the few cars this has been done to are based in Britain ;)It was installed by FastEddy, with his VERY expensive Star Diagnostic computer....The "illegality" comes with Transport Canada's insistence that people using cruise control are too stupid to know it, unless an idiot light is shining in their faces. Well I've made a few other changes to my car that Transport Canada would not approve of either, so ask me if I care.

[smartzuuk 167]

The US cars are European vin #'s, so they are no issue anyway... also, the Tach does not require a TAN! And possibly, the exterior temp indicator doesn;t either. Will find out soon enuf. (enuf is enough LOL)

[SmartieParts 12]

Mike, maybe my info was wrong. Source may be telling me presumptions as facts, I don't know... I was told anyone offering the TAN codes for the cruise control for a US or Canadian car (or any country where cc wasn't available) was doing so "under the table" so-to-speak and that the VIN supplied to smart to buy the code isn't necessarily getting recorded (in the books) as the same one the car was installed on (separation between technical requirements and accounting). Just because someone pays for something and it was provided to them doesn't mean the person providing it was authorized to do so. But like I said, perhaps there's some fact and fiction that needs to be separated here. I certainly can't say for sure and maybe the person telling me this was venturing guesses (I don't want to say who it was, but I'll direct them here so they can speak more to the issue if so-desired)... so let's presume you are right. But then I don't understand why its "limited availability" and/or why the dealers can't/won't do it. The relative hush-hush nature of it seems to support, in my mind anyway, that there isn't something quite above board with it.As for the US cars, keith... again, its a bit of a leap in logic to presume because they have Euro-VINs that it means smart is going to sell TAN codes to US service providers. They won't ship oil filters to them, so I don't see why they'd allow TAN codes. But just because something isn't "allowed" doesn't mean it doesn't happen.Too many unknowns though, so no point continuing this discussion because its just semantics at this point. Back to ASmartMan's project... - Steven

[SCHMART 0]

The US cars are European vin #'s, so they are no issue anyway... also, the Tach does not require a TAN! And possibly, the exterior temp indicator doesn;t either. Will find out soon enuf. (enuf is enough LOL)

the temp does not require a tan code either...just turn it on with the star computer software

[MikeT 744]

A European dealer is acquiring the TAN codes legitimately, and as I said, smart's central database (which has info on all cars in it) does reflect the fact that certain CDN cars have cruise control activated. So CDN dealers can see it if they bother looking, but they will not enable it themselves because of Transport Canada regs - same reason they won't order OEM fog lights.It's therefore something to think twice about if you're still under warranty, because any electrical problem could be falsely attributed to the enabled cruise, by a "work to rule" dealer.Luckily we have a good independent guy with a proper MB Star system computer, and at least one dealer in Europe who doesn't mind ordering up TANs for Canadian cars.

[SmartieParts 12]

Ah, so my source could still be right then... and it may not be "legitimately" performed. Because I'm pretty sure the guy in Europe would get fired or reprimanded if his identity and activity were made known to smart HQ... hence, the hush hush ;)Again, there's a leap in logic to assume its all above-board just because it ends up on the central database. Just because a bank robber records his withdrawal from the bank doesn't make it a legitimate transaction... just a dumb one. hehe.Maybe time to make some phone calls. - Steven

[MikeT 744]

Yeah, it's right up there with European dealers selling me fog lights (yes they wanted the VIN) and front and rear fenders that had not been vandalized!

[Mikey 0]

I had ask SmartUSA if a Cruise Control would be available on the US model. I got this as a response:

Dear smart Enthusiast Cruse control will not be an available option on the vehicle. If you have any other questions or concerns, please contact us via email or by phone at 1.800.smartusa. Thank you for your interest in smart USA. You will be hearing from us soon! Michelle Fenner Customer Service 1.800.smartusa www.smartusa.com

[SmartieParts 12]

Mikey... yes, we've known for a long time that smart won't be providing cruise control as an option from the factory. But if will be available as an aftermarket item. - Steven

[ASmartMan 0]

Evening ALLWell I set out on Saturday to quickly get my lawn cut so I could dive into finishing up the C/C.The starter on my tractor is bad, now being middle age, a little bit of a pot in my mid section , and having to retire form volleyball puts me a bit out of shape SSOO to cut 2 + acres using a pusher was a job so I got a late start on Sunday.Got most wired, I even used the switch pad that came with the 1st (vacuum servo-ed) C/C (this is just till I select my final switch set up). I ran into 2 issues (still not a show stopper).1: I assumed (OOHH that word again) that the wire identified on the SAM unit as "Break Switch" was the return from the break switch, BUT NNNOOO it was the supply voltage (no switching going on here), I decided (because I was running 1 wire to the back of the car, it is JUST as easy to run 2 (ran it to the break light).2: Well it really wasn't an assumption, it was actually a wish, The ECM unit has 2 wires identified as "Transmission RPM" the VSS signal on pins 11 and 30. well pin 11 is the ONLY red wire in the 100+wire harness (easy to find) and pin 30 was white (there are 14 of these).WELL you guessed it the red wire is +12 out to the sensor, so that means VSS return is on one of those white wires.I dug out my scope (with inverter) ask wife to plan on driving me around our dead end, strapped things down with the plan to find out what white wire was the VSS return, then had a moment.I realize this has been dragging on for weeks, but if you look at the steps to get to where I am today (remove nose, drill 2 holes, snake cable through front, then remove gas peddle, drill hole, insert supplied parts, and wire (so far) like a stereo) there really isn't much for a semi handy man to do.I've avoided jacking up the car (so people less nimble than I could follow this) and made a point of selecting options most could are comfortable with, that is why I've decided to go with the Audiovox mounted (on axle shaft) speed sensor.I figured fewer readers would want to try this if they had to try a 1 in 14 chance of getting the correct white wire and even fewer may have the tools I have to locate the correct white wire in the first place. So this adds a few bucks to the project (final tally will come with the final conclusion), but should be easy to follow.OOHH I do have a question for the MB and MDC C/C people out there, when you activate your cruise does it disable the throttle peddle? I wonder this because it's a drive by wire system.Well till next weekendASM

[MikeT 744]

Yeah the accelerator pedal does not move when cruise is engaged. It makes a good footrest actually.

[ValgardForkbeard 2]

Yeah the accelerator pedal does not move when cruise is engaged. It makes a good footrest actually.

Does that mean you can't accelerate without dis-engaging the c/c?MG

[MikeT 744]

No; you can still boot the accelerator and speed up temporarily, then let the speed decay and have cruise take over again. It's just that the accelerator pedal does not move by itself in cruise mode, as they did in the old days with CC, on cars with cable linkages.

[The Rog Man 1]

no, with cruise engaged if you press on the accelerator you will accelerate. On my car if you accelerate past the set cruise speed the led blinks rapidly..thats it...if you take yer foot off the pedal and let the cruise control take over again the led stops blinking rapidly.

[SmartieParts 12]

Just a further detail... The MDC can be programmed to either disengage when you hit the accelerator (so you have to re-set it if you want it on again after passing, for example) or to operate as described above (you temporarily go faster, then resume back to the previous set speed automatically). Most people choose the latter, but the choice is there anyway. - Steven

[ASmartMan 0]

GreetingsLet the drama continue OK so I finished wiring it late yesterday afternoon (including the installation of the drive shaft speed pickup) it was getting late and the wife and I had to go out so I put off the testing till today.WELL I never got out of the driveway before I called off the test.I started the car, placed in reverse, took my foot off the brake and the Smart started to beep, put my foot back on the brake and it stopped. Then I tried applying a little gas and the beeping stopped, I backed up shifted to neutral, removed foot from brake and no beeps. I then shifted to 1st, took my foot off the brake and it starts beeping again until I touch the gas. I checked the warning lights and nothing, so I parked and spent some time thinking about what this is.I'm guessing here, but I am assuming it is MB's way of telling you you have tail light out, as I said this is just a guess. BUT all my lights are working and what is going on here??????? then it dawned on me (once again another guess).I'm assuming the C/C wire I connected to the tail light bulb may have unbalanced the brake electrical circuit (lowering the resistance OR applying a slight bias voltage), MB has some rather complicated electronics in this little car (I'm impressed) and where the braking circuit is such a major part of the electronics, disrupting it may of caused the audible trouble code.The moment I removed the wire from the brake circuit the beeping went away ( WOW and what a sigh of relief from me too) confirming my prior assumptions.Next weekend (when time permits) I will find out what it took the cause this beeping, lower resistance, a slight bias voltage, and I'll actually remove the bulb to see if in fact it is MBs way of letting you know a bulb is out.If any one out there can answer these questions, Please speak up so I can finish the project before Christmas Hee Hee HeeASM

[MisterDotCom 0]

hi at all,very, very interresting to read all the statements. please, dont't make more experiments.buy our cruise control by smartieparts.... it is the best aftermarket part for the smart you can buy. MDC

[Dang 0]

"Usually" the car will beep if you open a door with the car in either forward or reverse with your foot off the brake. I've never seen it trigger from the tail lights. By the way, it will also go into "0" if you leave it long enough, so you may want to figure out what's causing the beep.So what have you spent in man-hours on this now? About $1000? Later! Dang

[ValgardForkbeard 2]

As long as he is having fun with it, does it matter how long it takes, or how much it costs? Or even if it works in the end.MG