How-To: Return the turnsignals to the Euro spot

[IMSMRT 0]

I was confused but it was blatantly obvious once I got in there.

The bulbs in the existing signals are 1157 bulbs...2 pins 180 from each other. The only way to get them to fit in the headlight signal socket is to file off the upper pin as the holes are offset say 160 degrees in this one. The easier option is the proper replacement bulbs....which is wha tI gave.

As for simple....the how to's here and on the "other" forum are very good and on even has pics of all the wires. I made my orange slices off except to signal and the blink together with the front signal.

Over there just search for "HowTo: Install EU Front Turn Signal &Repeater, there are two options"

And here well we don't have this topic covered as well yet.

I did (from my notes) the cut halifax wire to the black on the signal (orange slice) and the brown stays on the white. here is my pic attached. The picture is after the mod. the double wire is the halifax wire.

The front signals I removed the plugs from the light socets and used a hairdryer to loosen up the shrink tube and eventually i slid it off both . then its a matter of cutting the existing signal sockets off the wiring and splicing the ones from the euro spot on. All splices I twisted and soldered and shrink tubed ....then taped! The first one I did when I tested it the signal blinked fine then started fast blinking like a burnt out bulb was detected. all I did was turn the bulb and reinserted....this was the old bulb with filed pins. If you go to new bulbs you wont have to keep an eye out for a wrong alignment.

One thing of note...make sure you cut the front signal wires long enough to reach the sockets when you resplice the new signals on. theres lots of wire there so leave them longer...the first one I cut (pass side) was long enough but i had to reach inside to splice and tape... the driver side I left longer and could splice and tape out side the compartment.

Someone else (sorry) spliced wires onto the double halifax wires you just freed up and spliced them back onto the front signals you just cut off....this way those front signals will always be on with the headlights...pseudo driving/fog lights.

I did alot of running back to the computer to look at the pictrures from the how too and re read some more before I cut...

Lots of info for one post but I wanted to get it all down before I forgot!!!

Post questions if you need clarification that way everyone benefits!

S

[Diesel Dave 11]

Sounds like you have it right. You are best to use 2357NA bulbs in the turn signals and fog lights. They are brighter.

[TFM 0]

If you have to use the standard bulbs and file off the upper pin then I recommend you solder the two contacts on the bulbs together. This will give a very good seat and both filaments will always be lit.

[IMSMRT 0]

I just noticed it isnt in there but I am using py21w bulbs in the front signals..they fit perfectly and no pin to file.

Here is the part number link: http://www.clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=337 about halfway down or so

S

[mixed 1]

Good work Sean, I have also returned my lights back to the original signal position with help from smart142 and dieseldave. My DRL's are currenly off so no running lights, first stalk position produces the foglights in the Halifax turn signal location and all the running lights .......... also the side marker is off normally and indicates turn functions only.

[IMSMRT 0]

I never thought of that! If I wire the fog lights to the cut off halifax wires then they would always be on...which may or may not be a good thing. I am debating the MB switch and using the existing harness or going the remote control route...

that way the fogs are only on when I want them..

Hmmmm

S

[TFM 0]

I never thought of that! If I wire the fog lights to the cut off halifax wires then they would always be on...which may or may not be a good thing. I am debating the MB switch and using the existing harness or going the remote control route...

that way the fogs are only on when I want them..S

If you want just use the existing wiring and the MB switch then wire your own fog lights to the fog light harness. Then they come on when you push the button.

[IMSMRT 0]

Yeah I was thinking of that...I am also trying to figure out why the MB switch has 4 poles and all others have 3

there must be a "same" wire going to both sides, a ground and a hot? There is no reason I couldn't use the switch that came with the lights I just have to figure out what whire does what...

The remote unit is only 29 bucks at walmart and then I dont need to run wires all over or tap into the existing ones...

S

[TFM 0]

Yeah I was thinking of that...I am also trying to figure out why the MB switch has 4 poles and all others have 3

there must be a "same" wire going to both sides, a ground and a hot? There is no reason I couldn't use the switch that came with the lights I just have to figure out what whire does what...

The remote unit is only 29 bucks at walmart and then I dont need to run wires all over or tap into the existing ones...

S

That switch has the following features.

Ground

Switch contact (to ground)

LIGHT It lights up when the dash lights up

Green Light It has a green light to show the lights are on.

That's what the four contacts are for. It's a kick ass switch really.

[Illusive 4-2 0]

Just moved my turnsignal back into the stock location. I couldn't find the PY21W bulbs, so I opted for the P21W. To my understanding before installing it, it should be the same, but not yellow. Once I painted them amber and went to install them, I found out that the two contacts wre offset 180 degrees from each other. I had to file off one of the contacts to install them. I used bullet connectors to install the turn signals back into the headlight cluster. The clear orange paint worked out really well too!

[IMSMRT 0]

There is a part number around here somewhere about the py21w bulbs....I got them thru the NAPA parts place...2.36 each I think

S

[MikeT 747]

Once again, he got me 4 of the correct EU bulbs which I picked up yesterday, and I just returned the turn signals to where they should be. Great!

No pin filing, no intermittent contact. Just a soldering gun, some shrinkwrap and black tape (double redundancy is good!) and my car is now ready to receive the OEM foglights which I will be bringing back with me in a month. I'm saving about $30 on the foglight kit by getting it in Germany, but if I recover the German VAT (wich I will try) then it'll be more like $75 cheaper....

[MikeT 747]

Got my fog lights installed yesterday - easy as pie, a ten minute job. I left the dash dimmer light switch disconnected on the brightest setting (impulse switch). No sweat.

[RichHelms 1]

PY21W is the front turn signal. Bought them at MB for $1.83 a piece.

[IMSMRT 0]

Good find! I will keep that in mind. My MB dealer is 2 hours away....

S

[42Kruiser 0]

Finally got around to returning the turnsignals to Euro specs today. Used the info here and there and it was so easy. PY21W bulbs from NAPA. Spliced the Can. turn signal sockets onto the driving/fog light wires that were there. Soldered the contacts on a 2057 together for temporary driving lights. Planning on installing a set of Piaa's when I have time to do brackets or whatever is needed. Re-installed connector for driving lights to dash dimmer switch, they were just taped back inside dash cavity.

So thanks to all who have posted advice and photos here.

Next the orange slices and option................

[IMSMRT 0]

I will take pictures of the plates I made out of aluminum to match up with the holes from the Canadian turnsignals......it might be in my fog light install topic. But I just centred and drilled the plate and screwed the mounting brackets to the plate then mounted the plate!

I can try scanning the pic at hopefully 1:1 and post it to use if you want?

S

[42Kruiser 0]

Thanks Sean it would be appreciated. I remember seeing the photos (2) around somewhere. The soldered 2057's are great for being seen but not for seeing, but the piaa's ($170.00 best price so far) will definitely fix that.

[Lifebeat 0]

Finally got around to returning the turnsignals to Euro specs today. Used the info here and there and it was so easy. PY21W bulbs from NAPA. Spliced the Can. turn signal sockets onto the driving/fog light wires that were there. Soldered the contacts on a 2057 together for temporary driving lights. Planning on installing a set of Piaa's when I have time to do brackets or whatever is needed. Re-installed connector for driving lights to dash dimmer switch, they were just taped back inside dash cavity.

So thanks to all who have posted advice and photos here.

Next the orange slices and option................

Help me understand here, because I'll be doing the mod this week-end. After returning the turn sigs to the euro spot, I was planing on connecting the Halifax wire to the "old" turn signals and putting in clear 2357's. That way I would get pseudo fogs with the parking tlights.

What I understand from your version, is that you spliced into the "official" foglight wires, using the dimmer switch inside the car with the appropriate foglight wires?

Thanks for clearing me up...

Luc

[IMSMRT 0]

Here is the pic. What I did was remove the turnsignals while I was doing the euro signal mod so that I could fab these up before I installed the driving lights.

I removed the bulb plug and bulb and then undid the white nylon "nut and bolt" holding the lens to the black mounting frame. I traced the outline of the bracket onto some heavy cardstock and then just connected the screw holes with straight lines instead of following contours. I then marked and drilled the corners for the mounting screws. The only thing I noticed when I went to actually mount them was that I could have notched out the bottom parts to go into the spot better ( you will know what I mean when you do this) Anyways they mount just fine and flat as is so there was no need to contour them.just start all the screws first and tighten evenly.

As for findig the centre to mount the driving light brackets what I did was take the whole signal out again and traced the centre circle where the bulb is plugged into. Then I eyeballed the centre of this and marked the drill spots for the light bracket. Worked just fine.

Now the big thing to remember when mounting non smart lamps in this spot is ensure they will fit into the original opening before you go to far! I think it is a 2" opening!

I will attempt to scan the template I used but it is well described above...just incase the scale is off!

I used 1/8 aluminum

S

[42Kruiser 0]

What I understand from your version, is that you spliced into the "official" foglight wires, using the dimmer switch inside the car with the appropriate foglight wires?

Thanks for clearing me up...

Luc

That's it Luc, the fog light wires have a small rubber boot on them and on mine the driver's side one was a little harder to pull out. The dimmer switch I'm talking about is the one under the stero volume knob that will turn off the dash lights when you push it. Just pop the dimmer switch and the light/switch beside it out and pull the wires out and connect the taped up one back to the dimmer switch.

I only spliced on to the wires for now until I see what type of connectors come on the driving lights when I get them.

Have fun, its not nearly as tough as you expect it to be.

[Lifebeat 0]

42Kruiser : Do you notice any overheating of the ligth enclosure, especialy after having bridged the connections on the bulb?

Luc

[TFM 0]

42Kruiser : Do you notice any overheating of the ligth enclosure, especialy after having bridged the connections on the bulb?

Luc

It's no problem for the turn signals since they are not on long enough to cause any issues.

[42Kruiser 0]

I wondered about heating also but although they feel warm when sitting(naturally) I went for a 15-20min drive with them on and didn't seem to be too warm. Also had no high beams flashed at me for them, that's a plus. If we have a meltdown I'll let you know.

TFM I've made "driving lights" out of the Can. signal location with a 2057 bulb with both elements lit continuously when switched on, like you had mentioned doing with signal light.

[TFM 0]

I wondered about heating also but although they feel warm when sitting(naturally) I went for a 15-20min drive with them on and didn't seem to be too warm. Also had no high beams flashed at me for them, that's a plus. If we have a meltdown I'll let you know.

TFM I've made "driving lights" out of the Can. signal location with a 2057 bulb with both elements lit continuously when switched on, like you had mentioned doing with signal light.

Ahh. Sorry, misunderstood. Ya you could have an issue there but oh well, if you cook that stupid enclosure you can get more of them easy enough.