Losing power

[Clara 0]

Not sure if I'm in right topic I own a 2005 diesel smart .

Yesterday driving it lost power going up hills. I changed the oil and oil filter added clean care . Still no good

I live in Bancroft is there any mechanic you recommend in the area .

I am not very mechanical .

Thanks

[Huronlad 186]

A 10 year old cdi is not really the best choice for someone who is not mechanically inclined. Mechanic visits may become costly.

Independent mechanics.

If you plan on keeping the cdi, you will want to use the search function and search for EGR and waste gate, plenty to learn.

[dmoonen 54]

Your probly overboosting and going into limp mode. Pull the back bumper off and take an large adjustable and move the wastegate on the turbo back and forth to free it up (may have to remove crash bar). Once its freed your overboost/limp move will most likely be cured.

[Leadwing 565]

_{Yes Clara, you are in the right forum.}

_{Diesels need to have the RPM at more than 2,000 to have reasonable power. If you have a tachometer, try keeping it at or above 2,500. If you are already doing this, there might be other issues that need to be addressed.}

_{Are there any messages on the dash display like a code number or 3 bars? If so, write them down and post them here. Someone will be able to tell you why your power is down.}

_{Good luck.}

_Ron

[dmoonen 54]

• If you've lost power alltogether it will most likely be the EGR needs to be cleaned

If your driving lets say up hill or you accelerate hard and then it feels like it has no power its most likely the wastegate is sticking throwing the car into limp mode.Once in limp mode you have to turn it on and off multiple times to clear it, once cleared it will be "ok" till it overboosts again. .

Edited June 29, 2015 by dmoonen

[DrZaius 5]

Where can I find instructions on how to clean the EGR?

I have limp mode and check engine light for the first time, and I'm at 170,000 km.

[Alex 21]

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?app=ccs&module=pages&section=pages&id=4&record=23 EGR cleaning.

[DrZaius 5]

Ok, thanks for the info. I'm only experiencing the loss in power (limp mode) in 1st gear and in reverse. And only when I'm starting out from a stop. In higher gears, there is no problem. For example, highway driving is normal (no loss of power). Do you think this is a clogged EGR causing this?

Edited July 4, 2015 by DrZaius

[DrZaius 5]

something in the symptoms does not add-up

So you say that the engine will not go above 3000 rpm in first and reverse

but it will go above 3000 rpm in higher gears 2 thru 6 ?

Well I think the RPMs do actually go up to or beyond 3000 rpm in 1st gear, however it takes so long to accelerate. I'm literally sitting in an intersection (or slowly rolling) with cars wizzing past me for several seconds before the power kicks in and the car accelerates to regular city driving speed (50km/h). However, it doesn't happen every time. Maybe 25% of the time it's back to normal. It's only been doing this for 3 days and I have not had a chance to take it in to a mechanic or do anything about it yet.

[DrZaius 5]

something in the symptoms does not add-up

So you say that the engine will not go above 3000 rpm in first and reverse

but it will go above 3000 rpm in higher gears 2 thru 6 ?

Well I think the RPMs do actually go up to or beyond 3000 rpm in 1st gear, however it takes so long to accelerate. I'm literally sitting in an intersection (or slowly rolling) with cars wizzing past me for several seconds before the power kicks in and the car accelerates to regular city driving speed (50km/h). However, it doesn't happen every time. Maybe 25% of the time it's back to normal. It's only been doing this for 3 days and I have not had a chance to take it in to a mechanic or do anything about it yet.

Ok the Check Engine light went away for a day and then came back today. I borrowed a code-reader and got the following info:

"P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected"

Does this mean I should clean the EGR?

[dmoonen 54]

Yes it's blocked time to clean it.

[Markjohn 0]

Hello iv got same problem told it could be the temperature sensor and there are 2 with mine at the moment I stop turn the engine off and then restart and its ok .its going to sorted out next week I hope

[tolsen 630]

I suspect yours is a 54 HP 451 so different problem to our older 450 diesel Smart cars.

[DrZaius 5]

Finally got the silver actuator off (after removing the three 4mm socket head screws), shown in the left picture. It took me about 6 hours to get to this point. I'm a beginner at this. I also had to remove the rear plastic panels of the car, which definitely helped. I find the instructions difficult to follow because I don't know the names of everything. We could definitely use some arrows or labels in the pictures. Or, even better: I wish there was a video of this!

I did find that vice-grips on the end of the cartridge valve worked pretty well to remove it (middle picture). The last picture is the valve all plugged with black goo.

Edited July 11, 2015 by DrZaius

[DrZaius 5]

Any tips for getting this hose back on? I've been trying for several days but can't seem to get it.

[David_18 13]

I think this is easy this the EGr valve not screw in place, to be able to move it a bit up and push the hose in place.

[smart142 605]

Try a hair dryer to warm up the hose - makes it more pliable. Then use a thin bladed screw driver to work it on.

Good luck and keep trying!

[BJSmart 5]

I have a similar "loss of power" issue in our 2005MY 450...ie engine won't rev above ~3000 rpm despite flooring the accelerator. I have the EGR emulator installed for about 4 yrs now. My EGR valve is still in place and when it sooted up I merely plugged in the emulator and it was all good thereafter.

Lately I get the afore mentioned condition first thing in the morning on first startup. I typically drive a couple of blocks to check on my dad (93 yrs old) and when I come out from his house and start it up 2nd time of the day it is all good!!! Occasionally it requires several restarts to clear this condition but not often. And once cleared car is good for the day regardless on number of restarts! Any thoughts as to what is going on here?? I do have a new emulator on order from stickman hoping there is maybe a fault in the old one. Other than that I am stumped because thsi is such a consistent pattern

[dmoonen 54]

Your in limp mode when your topped out at 3K, once you cycle the key over again a couple times it resets until you run into the same problem and your back in limp mode.

When you plug in an emulator without cleaning or deleting the EGR theres agood chance you'll still have blockage. Had a car come in that ran like crap with no codes and limp mode. . . sure enough just a emulator without proper cleaning or delete.


Find what causes limp mode and fix it. . its most likely EGR is pluged or overboost due to sticky wastegate.

[BJSmart 5]

If it's either of those two I would think sticking waste gate.If it was clogged EGR I don't see how it could run like a top 90% of the time each day plus the previous 4 yrs!

[Alex 21]

A clogged EGR that doesn't throw codes (the solenoid can still move, just all gas flow is blocked) is a blanking plate, no problem. One that doesn't seal off is a big driveability problem.

[BJSmart 5]

Alex...my problem is identical to the one you were having in this thread...

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=26110

Did you find a cause, I didn't see an outcome posted! I am leaning towards poor connection to the solenoid from the emulator or another electric/ computer issue since it is only on cold starts once a day

[tolsen 630]

I would like to know too.

[DrZaius 5]

Try a hair dryer to warm up the hose - makes it more pliable. Then use a thin bladed screw driver to work it on.

Good luck and keep trying!

Thanks so much for this suggestion! After heating with a hair drier for about 20 mins, I was able to get the hose on!

See the attached pic with everything back to normal (including temp sensor). Note that this picture is taken from under the car looking upwards.

Also, I found this youtube video on how to remove the rear panels very helpful:

It allowed me to get 1 hand in from the back side of the car (near the muffler), with the other hand from the front side (to manipulate the hose).

After going through all this and getting the car up and running again, I've reluctantly decided to sell it. My wife and I are entering a new stage of our lives and unfortunately I won't have the time to trouble-shoot problems like this in the future. Perhaps someone else can get some good use out of this car that served me so well!

Thanks for all the help over the years!

Hopefully some of the pictures and comments I posted will help someone else.

Edited July 19, 2015 by DrZaius

[Alex 21]

Alex...my problem is identical to the one you were having in this thread...

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=26110

Did you find a cause, I didn't see an outcome posted! I am leaning towards poor connection to the solenoid from the emulator or another electric/ computer issue since it is only on cold starts once a day

Correct resolution now posted.