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Found 14 results

  1. Hi guys, I need some advice. This is my first post here. I have a bit of an unusual situation regarding the alternator and the electrical system with my 451 MHD from 2012. I tried looking up the topic, but none of the posts seem to answer my questions... I must mention that I'm not a mechanic or engineer, I just have some basic understanding of physics. A few days ago, the battery warning light came on while returning from a trip (about 130 km). The warning light went out when I switched off all the lights, unplugged the phone charger and turned off the radio. It came back on after a while. Since I thought it to be prudent not to turn the ignition off, I just drove at a fixed speed to minimize gear changes and power consumption and to get as close to home as possible to minimize the towing distance. I made it home alright. The next day the car started normally. I drove it around the block with no issues. I even ventured out on a trip to the mechanic (about 7km through the city) with no issues. The error the on-board computer spat out was "No alternator excitation", but no warning lights in the dashboard. The error was cleared and the car started. He changed the belt to the alternator as we noticed the outer part of it was a bit chewed up. The car started ok, the connectors to the alternator seemed to be ok, the battery seemed to be fine. The same day I had to take an unexpected trip out of town, about 260 km round trip. I knew it was risky but it was unavoidable. The same red battery warning light came back on. This time it did not go away after I switched off everything I possibly could. I had to stop for gas and had to turn the engine off. It wouldn't start at first. I pushed the car to the parking lot of the gas station and successfully started the car. I made it to the destination. While there, I turned the ignition on a few times and it started without a hitch all throughout the evening. The next day, on my way back, the warning light came back on as soon as I left town. I drove carefully about 110 km without any issues, and just as I got off the main road to take a 5 km shortcut through a village, I had to brake more frequently and even had to come to a complete stop going up a hill. The ABS warning light came on, the gear shifts were very late, the windows wouldn't open or close and I was stuck in 4th for a while. I pulled over. Tried the ignition again with no success and called a towtruck to the mechanic as it was the closest. The car did start when I arrived there. As he did not have time to work on my car at that moment, I left it there. Later he called and said the alternator must be replaced and we sourced a second hand alternator. The problem I encountered was that the mounting system of the new (SH) alternator is different from the one I had on my car, as you can hopefully see in the pictures attached. I tried to find an exact copy of the alternator I had, but with no luck. There are new parts available, but none in Romania, and I would have to wait for a few weeks to get a replacement. Now my questions are these: 1. Was it really the alternator that's at fault or maybe it's something else. The error was "no excitation". I know that alternators rarely break and my mechanic doesn't have much experience with these. 2. How can I find an exact replacement for my current alternator, with the required bushings and all. I know Mercedes made several revisions to the mounting system over the years. 3. Is it possible to fix the old alternator? 4. Can I change the casing form the old alternator and fit it on the new one? 5. Is it worth it to modify the new alternator so that it would fit exactly where the old one used to be? It would require milling the holes on the mounting brackets to make them bigger. 6. Is there something I am missing? The "broken" one is on the right and it has a blue mark. The new SH one has a yellow mark. Wow this post turned out to be a doozie... sorry about that.
  2. HELP! It turns out my cdi overheated because the alternator seized and broke the belt. Does anyone have an alternator I can buy off you ASAP? My Smart is in the shop waiting. Tedder in Brockville
  3. Hey all, I've got a 2009 451 Smart, and I can't seem to get it to start. I turn the key, and the starter doesn't make a sound. I thought it might be a dead battery, so I hooked up one of those portable jump packs, but no luck. The battery shows about 11.7 volts, which should be more than enough to turn it over. I pulled the starter, and had it tested, and it's perfectly fine. Any suggestions?
  4. Hi All I have a 06 CDI with only 90k on it and now it won’t turn over, the cars been frustrating I just changed the alternator for a now charge issue ( i thought) and now the car won’t turn over. When I try to start it it just clicks fast like the starter pinion is moving back and forth. I put the booster on it and it just does it faster. I don’t think it’s my battery everything else on the car works fine. Is it possible the cable can be corroded from the battery to the starter/alternator or is it a bad ground. the car did try to start once but I can’t get it to do it again. Any input would be greatly appreciated
  5. Hi. I have read many posts on many forums but can’t find an answer to my problem. The car is 2006 450 700cc Passion. The car was working fine then without warning we had the following issue.... Within 5 mins drive the ESP light comes on and a complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 30 seconds / on - ESP light is off, engine starts hesitantly but won’t tick over. Within 500m the ESP light comes on and complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 10 mins / on - Everything runs fine for 4-5mins then ESP light comes on etc... From cold the car will sit still and run all day long - the engine will rev freely, the fan(s) cut in and out, there is no overheat and no illuminated lights. But go for a drive and within 5 mins.... ESP light etc. In no particular order, I have replaced.... Engine loom, alternator, starter, battery, clutch fork, clutch actuator, reluctor rings, ABS sensors, crank sensor, transmission speed sensor, transmission angle sensor, knock sensor, throttle body, map sensor, inlet temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, exhaust, both lambda sensors, timing kit (chain, sprockets, guides, tensioner), oil pump kit (chain, tensioner, sprockets), head gasket, There are no blown fuses in the SAM module and no apparent water damage. The clutch and gearbox will happily learn their places, drag points, fork positions etc. No gearbox lines (horizontal or vertical) on dashboard. Codes from OBD: C1340 which says “ECU cannot execute torque request” 53301 “unknown” P2056 “Actual position Of rotation angle sensor; plausibility” These codes will reset and only come back after the ESP light has illuminated. The alternator is a genuine Smart alternator - the part number matches the cars’ requirement on WIS. Can anybody point me in any direction I have not tried already.... Please?
  6. Well, my Fortwo suffered from the dreaded alternator belt slip since I purchased it. I couldnt wait long listenening to it every time id fire the car up. I learnt early that a new pulley was tough to find and usually resulted in purchasing a new alternator. Really not practical when one small component needed to be swapped. I was tempted to make a new pulley on the Lathe but opted for a quicker alternative. I did some searching and came across a post made by @tolsen on the use of a decoupling pulley. I wasn't able to find the exact pulley used but after some more researching I was able to source a pulley from a 2000 Volvo S70 2.3L L5 Turbo. Below is the stock pulley As you can see, the aluminum pulley is showing horrible signs of wear. Each tip has multiple grooves in it. I do like that its lightweight but its not made to last a long time and should be a readily available part at a good price but it is not. And the new Volvo de-coupling pulley beside the old setup. You will notice the new pulley is a lot more involved. In simplest terms the pulley will engage/lock when on the throttle and the belt speed is higher than the current rpm of the alternator pulley. As soon as the belt speed decreases below the pulley rpms the pulley begins to free-wheel. This decreases load on the belt and, in turn, the engine and apparently it will reduce up-shift time. I did not time the upshifts before fixing the pulley but it might have increased slightly. As noticed above the pulley wasn't a perfect fit out of the box. For one, its a 6 rib belt, not a huge deal as you can pick either the top 5 ribs or the bottom 5 ribs to use your belt on. The main concern is that none of the ribs lined up. I was able to easily press the inner race and shift it slightly to align the ribs perfectly. Much better alignment. The photo shows it being off but from my measurements at the time it was perfect. Beautiful new pulley installed and ready to go. I was lucky to grab this pulley off RockAuto for only 50 bucks Canadian! You'll notice it comes with a top cap or outer cap, this is to help protect the bearing. And finally installed back in the car. I've been running this setup for a good few weeks now without issue. The belt is running great. Very happy with the results and the price of the pulley. Has anyone else ran a de-coupling pulley?
  7. Hi, I want to install an electric heater in a petrol car and probably would need more current at idle RPM. At idle, alternator can only provide around 40% of rated current (75A is rated at around 2500RPM). The questions are: 1. is alternator's pulley size different in diesel and petrol cars? From some pictures I found, diesel one seems to be bit smaller (= more RPM). 2. If different, are the alternators otherwise more or less compatible in terms of mounting to the engine? 3. Can I spin the alternator slightly faster than rated? In electrical theory there should be no problem.
  8. Hey guys, new here. Our diesel engineering team at UMD duluth is building a clean diesel snowmobile to compete against other schools. We are thinking of replacing the alternator and mounting a stator instead to save some space (space is a huge issue in this build). Does anyone have any experience or advice for this? I am wondering if there is something out there that can be adapted to fit this application or if we need to look at designing one from the ground up. Thank you guys!
  9. Bought a used alternator from Eddy at flying tiger when my battery light came on and saw my system wasn't charging. When I took mine out I found out it was the alternator cable was damaged which was the culprit. Fixed the cable, reinstalled my alternator and everything is great. He doesn't do returns on used parts (understandable) so just trying to get what I paid for it. Got the part on Friday April 10 and haven't touched it. Paid $200 cash for it, asking $200 Message me here or contact me at the following: call or txt 604-309-0146 Nathan
  10. My car has been sitting for 4 months. Just got insurance yesterday and it started up no problem. When idling the inside and outside lights flicker. If I hold the gas down. It stops flickering. I took it for a long drive. The first 1/2 of the trip they were still flickering but then stopped flickering. When I got home after an hour and it was idling, they were flickering again.It's been sitting under a carport but still was out in the cold and damp. I had the battery replaced last in 2010I'm looking threw past repair receipts and I don't see an alternator ever being replaced.How much will this cost to replace?Is it ok to drive to get it looked at?I have secure drive elite, good till May 2014. I'm sure the Alternator is included in this.
  11. Hello all, I have been trying to find the easiest method of getting to the rear side of the engine on my .8 dsl fortwo. I have 3 key components I want to always have access to. my starter alternator and thermostat. I have done some research on locations and plan to create a hatch door to give me immediate access to them most likely with hinge style or grove style (such as the engine cover panel) my question is has anyone ever attempted this mod to the body of the vehicle? also if I were to cut away a portion of the cell shown in my picture(general area) is there any ideas of ways I can have it easily removable and still create an airtight seal for sound when reinstalled? I have access to welder and can form sheet metal. tomorrow I am going to begin the cut. also the second picture is showing key strength points in red and I will be cutting just under the main support in between existing engine access hole and my cutting area. I am planning on swapping alternators in summer as bearing in mine is on its way out the door. I am also wanting to attempt tolson's restrictor mod to gain some heat in my -32 celcius world I live in. thank in advance!
  12. When I started my 2005 cdi last night, it did the engine shake thing and nearly stalled on me in the beginning whilst driving. It got better and the whirring sound quieted down a little but since my car sits for months at a time, I think I really need to lube the alternator bearing. I read on here before that there is a way to squirt it a little with lube, but I can't find the thread again. Can anyone find the link for me please?
  13. Has anyone tried to install a different than O.E.M alternator, ie toyota corrola, mazda 3.something that is easier and cheaper to find locally, Lordco and napa don't have one here, and I don't /won't buy from the dealer.The autowreckers have many similar in size and mounting , the wiring should be simple, just need to make or modify a bracket. has anyone done this or is there somthing I don't know about.
  14. Looking for a voltage regulator for an "05 CDI. Anyone got a spare they're willing to part with?