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Found 13 results

  1. HELP! It turns out my cdi overheated because the alternator seized and broke the belt. Does anyone have an alternator I can buy off you ASAP? My Smart is in the shop waiting. Tedder in Brockville
  2. Hey all, I've got a 2009 451 Smart, and I can't seem to get it to start. I turn the key, and the starter doesn't make a sound. I thought it might be a dead battery, so I hooked up one of those portable jump packs, but no luck. The battery shows about 11.7 volts, which should be more than enough to turn it over. I pulled the starter, and had it tested, and it's perfectly fine. Any suggestions?
  3. Hi All I have a 06 CDI with only 90k on it and now it won’t turn over, the cars been frustrating I just changed the alternator for a now charge issue ( i thought) and now the car won’t turn over. When I try to start it it just clicks fast like the starter pinion is moving back and forth. I put the booster on it and it just does it faster. I don’t think it’s my battery everything else on the car works fine. Is it possible the cable can be corroded from the battery to the starter/alternator or is it a bad ground. the car did try to start once but I can’t get it to do it again. Any input would be greatly appreciated
  4. Hi. I have read many posts on many forums but can’t find an answer to my problem. The car is 2006 450 700cc Passion. The car was working fine then without warning we had the following issue.... Within 5 mins drive the ESP light comes on and a complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 30 seconds / on - ESP light is off, engine starts hesitantly but won’t tick over. Within 500m the ESP light comes on and complete engine power loss. Ignition off / wait 10 mins / on - Everything runs fine for 4-5mins then ESP light comes on etc... From cold the car will sit still and run all day long - the engine will rev freely, the fan(s) cut in and out, there is no overheat and no illuminated lights. But go for a drive and within 5 mins.... ESP light etc. In no particular order, I have replaced.... Engine loom, alternator, starter, battery, clutch fork, clutch actuator, reluctor rings, ABS sensors, crank sensor, transmission speed sensor, transmission angle sensor, knock sensor, throttle body, map sensor, inlet temp sensor, ambient temp sensor, exhaust, both lambda sensors, timing kit (chain, sprockets, guides, tensioner), oil pump kit (chain, tensioner, sprockets), head gasket, There are no blown fuses in the SAM module and no apparent water damage. The clutch and gearbox will happily learn their places, drag points, fork positions etc. No gearbox lines (horizontal or vertical) on dashboard. Codes from OBD: C1340 which says “ECU cannot execute torque request” 53301 “unknown” P2056 “Actual position Of rotation angle sensor; plausibility” These codes will reset and only come back after the ESP light has illuminated. The alternator is a genuine Smart alternator - the part number matches the cars’ requirement on WIS. Can anybody point me in any direction I have not tried already.... Please?
  5. Well, my Fortwo suffered from the dreaded alternator belt slip since I purchased it. I couldnt wait long listenening to it every time id fire the car up. I learnt early that a new pulley was tough to find and usually resulted in purchasing a new alternator. Really not practical when one small component needed to be swapped. I was tempted to make a new pulley on the Lathe but opted for a quicker alternative. I did some searching and came across a post made by @tolsen on the use of a decoupling pulley. I wasn't able to find the exact pulley used but after some more researching I was able to source a pulley from a 2000 Volvo S70 2.3L L5 Turbo. Below is the stock pulley As you can see, the aluminum pulley is showing horrible signs of wear. Each tip has multiple grooves in it. I do like that its lightweight but its not made to last a long time and should be a readily available part at a good price but it is not. And the new Volvo de-coupling pulley beside the old setup. You will notice the new pulley is a lot more involved. In simplest terms the pulley will engage/lock when on the throttle and the belt speed is higher than the current rpm of the alternator pulley. As soon as the belt speed decreases below the pulley rpms the pulley begins to free-wheel. This decreases load on the belt and, in turn, the engine and apparently it will reduce up-shift time. I did not time the upshifts before fixing the pulley but it might have increased slightly. As noticed above the pulley wasn't a perfect fit out of the box. For one, its a 6 rib belt, not a huge deal as you can pick either the top 5 ribs or the bottom 5 ribs to use your belt on. The main concern is that none of the ribs lined up. I was able to easily press the inner race and shift it slightly to align the ribs perfectly. Much better alignment. The photo shows it being off but from my measurements at the time it was perfect. Beautiful new pulley installed and ready to go. I was lucky to grab this pulley off RockAuto for only 50 bucks Canadian! You'll notice it comes with a top cap or outer cap, this is to help protect the bearing. And finally installed back in the car. I've been running this setup for a good few weeks now without issue. The belt is running great. Very happy with the results and the price of the pulley. Has anyone else ran a de-coupling pulley?
  6. Hi, I want to install an electric heater in a petrol car and probably would need more current at idle RPM. At idle, alternator can only provide around 40% of rated current (75A is rated at around 2500RPM). The questions are: 1. is alternator's pulley size different in diesel and petrol cars? From some pictures I found, diesel one seems to be bit smaller (= more RPM). 2. If different, are the alternators otherwise more or less compatible in terms of mounting to the engine? 3. Can I spin the alternator slightly faster than rated? In electrical theory there should be no problem.
  7. Hey guys, new here. Our diesel engineering team at UMD duluth is building a clean diesel snowmobile to compete against other schools. We are thinking of replacing the alternator and mounting a stator instead to save some space (space is a huge issue in this build). Does anyone have any experience or advice for this? I am wondering if there is something out there that can be adapted to fit this application or if we need to look at designing one from the ground up. Thank you guys!
  8. Bought a used alternator from Eddy at flying tiger when my battery light came on and saw my system wasn't charging. When I took mine out I found out it was the alternator cable was damaged which was the culprit. Fixed the cable, reinstalled my alternator and everything is great. He doesn't do returns on used parts (understandable) so just trying to get what I paid for it. Got the part on Friday April 10 and haven't touched it. Paid $200 cash for it, asking $200 Message me here or contact me at the following: nmatell@hotmail.com call or txt 604-309-0146 Nathan
  9. My car has been sitting for 4 months. Just got insurance yesterday and it started up no problem. When idling the inside and outside lights flicker. If I hold the gas down. It stops flickering. I took it for a long drive. The first 1/2 of the trip they were still flickering but then stopped flickering. When I got home after an hour and it was idling, they were flickering again.It's been sitting under a carport but still was out in the cold and damp. I had the battery replaced last in 2010I'm looking threw past repair receipts and I don't see an alternator ever being replaced.How much will this cost to replace?Is it ok to drive to get it looked at?I have secure drive elite, good till May 2014. I'm sure the Alternator is included in this.
  10. Hello all, I have been trying to find the easiest method of getting to the rear side of the engine on my .8 dsl fortwo. I have 3 key components I want to always have access to. my starter alternator and thermostat. I have done some research on locations and plan to create a hatch door to give me immediate access to them most likely with hinge style or grove style (such as the engine cover panel) my question is has anyone ever attempted this mod to the body of the vehicle? also if I were to cut away a portion of the cell shown in my picture(general area) is there any ideas of ways I can have it easily removable and still create an airtight seal for sound when reinstalled? I have access to welder and can form sheet metal. tomorrow I am going to begin the cut. also the second picture is showing key strength points in red and I will be cutting just under the main support in between existing engine access hole and my cutting area. I am planning on swapping alternators in summer as bearing in mine is on its way out the door. I am also wanting to attempt tolson's restrictor mod to gain some heat in my -32 celcius world I live in. thank in advance!
  11. When I started my 2005 cdi last night, it did the engine shake thing and nearly stalled on me in the beginning whilst driving. It got better and the whirring sound quieted down a little but since my car sits for months at a time, I think I really need to lube the alternator bearing. I read on here before that there is a way to squirt it a little with lube, but I can't find the thread again. Can anyone find the link for me please?
  12. Has anyone tried to install a different than O.E.M alternator, ie toyota corrola, mazda 3.something that is easier and cheaper to find locally, Lordco and napa don't have one here, and I don't /won't buy from the dealer.The autowreckers have many similar in size and mounting , the wiring should be simple, just need to make or modify a bracket. has anyone done this or is there somthing I don't know about.
  13. Looking for a voltage regulator for an "05 CDI. Anyone got a spare they're willing to part with?